Clutch issue

[Bozl1n]

New poster! (less than 10 posts)

Clutch cable snapped, no big suprise there, replaced.

Problem being after a hundred miles or so the pedal went limp

Upon closer inspection it seems the arm that you attatch the cable to is moving about considerably.

Seems that the pivit joint it sits on has come off or come loose.

Now the question i wana ask is - am i gonna have to take out the block to get at this?

I was under the impression the gearbox could be unbolted from undeneath and accessed that way, the problemis i was told yestyerday that this involves unboltimg the subframe and as such slideing forward something or other which would mean removing the front bumper.

As my fromt bumper is rather annoyingly blended into my bodywork thats not posssable.

So to cut a long story shourt, can i access the clutch arm without takig off the bumper?

Or is engine crane time?

[Tiny Tim]

A) Are you SURE the clutch fork/bearing is fubared? - rule out everything else (the easier to fix stuff) before getting to work.

B) Passenger front wheel off, jack the front of the car up, drop the subframe at the gearbox mount and you SHOULD have enough room with some pulling and swearing and bleeding to get the box out. I've done it before. And if I can do it, a monkey with a straw hat can do it.

[stuTHC]

No worries on the front bumper, you can take the engine out if you need to without removing the bumper. No need for that if your just doing the bearing/release fork thou-
driveshafts out,
flywheel cover plate and front engine steady off,
gear selecter bar off (undo the nut on the gearbox stud (rear) next to the starter motor while your under the car),
unbolt the block to box brace from the gearbox,
starter motor off,
take the weight of the block with a jack on the sump plug area,
gearbox mount to front of subfame off,
remove the nut, washer and plate on the gearbox to bulkhead mount,
remove the 4 long bolts and other stud nut (front of box) that hold the box to the block,
jack the engine up a touch until the gearbox bracket moves off the bulkhead engine mount stud (in other words take the weight off of the bracket)
remove the gearbox bracket,
slide the box back, it's heavy!!


For a bit more room drop the rear nearside subframe bolt out and bar the subframe down 3 inch (wedge a 30mm socket in between the subframe and chassis) . When i changed my clutch i left the box in, just pushed it back between the inner wing and subframe, i had loads of room to work- http://www.rtoc.org/boards/album.php?albumid=244&pictureid=1917

[stuTHC]

:confused:
where's my picture?

http://www.rtoc.org/boards/album.php?albumid=244&pictureid=1917

[stuTHC]

btw- remove the offside driveshaft by removing the split pin and taking it off at the splines, in that pic i had to split it at the cv boot 'cos the split pin was solid.
You may also notice i had the head off as well (i was doing my valve seats) it made getting to the starter a bit easier but other than that it's exactly the same once you've moved a few coolant hose and boost pipes out of the way :)

[Andrew Cooke]

New poster! (less than 10 posts)
Upon closer inspection it seems the arm that you attatch the cable to is moving about considerably.

how considerably? If you take the cable off they do flop about in the hole.

[Matt Cole]

No worries on the front bumper, you can take the engine out if you need to without removing the bumper. No need for that if your just doing the bearing/release fork thou-
driveshafts out,
flywheel cover plate and front engine steady off,
gear selecter bar off (undo the nut on the gearbox stud (rear) next to the starter motor while your under the car),
unbolt the block to box brace from the gearbox,
starter motor off,
take the weight of the block with a jack on the sump plug area,
gearbox mount to front of subfame off,
remove the nut, washer and plate on the gearbox to bulkhead mount,
remove the 4 long bolts and other stud nut (front of box) that hold the box to the block,
jack the engine up a touch until the gearbox bracket moves off the bulkhead engine mount stud (in other words take the weight off of the bracket)
remove the gearbox bracket,
slide the box back, it's heavy!!


For a bit more room drop the rear nearside subframe bolt out and bar the subframe down 3 inch (wedge a 30mm socket in between the subframe and chassis) . When i changed my clutch i left the box in, just pushed it back between the inner wing and subframe, i had loads of room to work- http://www.rtoc.org/boards/album.php?albumid=244&pictureid=1917

Sounds like a right **** on Stu, half a dozen pipes and the engines ready to pull out at that stage. Top way of doing it tho if you aint got a crane.:agree:

[Bozl1n]

New poster! (less than 10 posts)


how considerably? If you take the cable off they do flop about in the hole.


Its like stiring a cake....

With the cable attached

The peddle drops about a cm or so, the arm moves up, down sideways, in fact it moves all over.

Looking at it, with how its designed to work, pivit seems to have somewhat gone awol.

Thanks lads, youve saved me a epic with a engine crane