rear calipers

[Schakal]

ok i am having problems with mine at the moment and
mot man says NO http://www.williamsclio.co.uk/forum/images/smiles/icon_confused.gif

basicly the rearn braking efficeny is not up to mot standard even
though i have no problems with them including the handbrake efficency.
now i have removed , pads and discs in order to inspect calipers
properly ,the rubber seals were not looking to clever took them out to
check piston movement , it was difficult but pulled them out and wd40 ed
them as i worked them in and out . put everything back on even though
it did help bring the efficeny up it still is not enough for mr MOT .

my bias valve is not seized either so the only problem i can think of
is the air in calipers which needs to be bled . however i snapped one
of the bleed nipples and dont want to go any further without a proper plan .

here are the questions ;
1- has anyone heard of/managed to bleed rear calipers through union nut by simply slackening the nut instead of the bleed nipple ?

2- the nipple is snapped flush wit hthe caliper casing .what are my chances
of getting it out without damaging threads or getting crap into the caliper?

[Matt@CodeRedMotorsports]

If you knock a torx bit into the remains of the nipple, you might get the rest out.
You can bleed through the union, but not any good if there is air in the caliper.....

[Schakal]

If you knock a torx bit into the remains of the nipple, you might get the rest out.
You can bleed through the union, but not any good if there is air in the caliper.....

you mean to hammer an actual torx bit in to the hole ?
sounds a plan .
i need a plan B in case of failure though ,its my daily driver and need
it moted asap :crap:

[SCHWARTZ]

I had same prob. Bought a rear calliper of mike and swapped it. would defo try the torx bit thing first never tried it with a bleed nipple but has worked for me many times with other soft bolts etc... try soaking it with wd40 for a while first.

[J$£5GTT]

think for what its worth mate get hold of another caliper..wether new/second hand an fit that,play about with the other one later on for a spare,be faster for the mot cert an you dont want to be flafing about with a duff caliper in a hurry unless you can/know how to suss it fastish...
:agree::)

[Schakal]

thanks for all replies peoples :agree:

thinking about it today ,came up with a nice theory(mc gyver style yall) ;

rear calipers are made of ally ,bleed nipple is steel . i will try to build up some welds A.K.A pigeon **** over the remains of the nipple on the caliper , weld wont stick to ally but will melt and stick to the nipple if i can build it high and strong enough ,i can weld a nut on the end of it and unscrew the fooker out (IN THEORY )
obviously heat from welding process will help loosen the threads but too much of it can burn the brake fluid . planning to cool the welds with compressed air as i go along . http://www.williamsclio.co.uk/forum/images/smiles/icon_idea.gif

anyone think this might work better ?

[Alastair]

If you buy new it is worth noting that Delphi do not bother renewing the threads for the bleed nipples, wheras most other re-manufacturers (spelling!) drill out the original thread and sleeve it with a steel insert. Check when the motor factors hand it over the bench, the delphi ones are SH1T.:agree:

The welding idea sounds good, doubt you will need the air while welding. As for bleeding, do it properly through the nipple, the union rarely works properly.

If you dont need much extra braking force.. on the way to the MoT man trail you handbrake on and off and get the rears good and hot and corrosion free, this usually works a treat ;)

[Schakal]

If you buy new it is worth noting that Delphi do not bother renewing the threads for the bleed nipples, wheras most other re-manufacturers (spelling!) drill out the original thread and sleeve it with a steel insert. Check when the motor factors hand it over the bench, the delphi ones are SH1T.:agree:

The welding idea sounds good, doubt you will need the air while welding. As for bleeding, do it properly through the nipple, the union rarely works properly.

If you dont need much extra braking force.. on the way to the MoT man trail you handbrake on and off and get the rears good and hot and corrosion free, this usually works a treat ;)

i wont be buying new hopefully mate but thanks for the advice :agree:

lol ,i was thinking of jamming the bias valve open to let more fluid to the
rears to funk the mot man

[Woznaldo]

I'd check the rear compensating valve is set up correctly. Even wind it in a bit to add a bit more braking effort, as you suggested?