View Full Version : High running temp.
Just been poodling around getting a feel for the car on local roads for local people.
Iam running very hot, the temp where by the fan comes on .... my needles always there.
Now i have bled the system, and various other things... stats working and in situ.
Rad stat is admitadly from a campus...(thats prob the issue)
But i have a very small coolant system, my header tank is by the water pump , and im not running a heater matrix... so as you can imagine, very little pipe run for any form of heatloss... and the shorter the run the quicker the warm up (less volume to heat up)
Question being, have i made the coolant system to short a run...?
Id check the stat first. A lot of the motorfactor stats are 86deg, too high for a gtt imo 83deg is right. :)
:agree:Agree with Brigsy's comments exactly as said the other night on the phone:laugh: I run less coolant pipes than yourself JRP I very much doubt this is your problem. Mr kung fuey radiator:cooter:
:agree:Agree with Brigsy's comments exactly as said the other night on the phone:laugh: I run less coolant pipes than yourself JRP I very much doubt this is your problem. Mr kung fuey radiator:cooter:
Ive been thinking it might be the rad tbh!! made by a blind china man
The new Bill J
17-07-2010, 21:39
Stevie Wonder welding FTW!
Or not, as the case may be :cry:
JRP I had the same problem with my OE rad yesterday I took a drive up to Chertsey to pick some bits up from Rinkidink (byt the way top bloke) and my coolant temps would stick just below the line you don't wan't it to cross which is very strange for my engine as normally fantastic, I tested the top rad hose stat and all was good, I tested the rad fan switch and again all was goof I re-bleed the coolant many then I thought nothing else to try as I know my rad is good internally and externally so got a spare water pump of Chris aka fidos go a raider and removed my old one last night and fitted the one I got of Chris at the side of the road as I didn't want to risk driving the 5 as it was with a newly rebuilt engine that I have only put in at the weekend just gone and the problem is now solved my temps are now back to normal. I know you water pump is new but could still not be working properly. My old water pump had no play in the pulley at all but for some reason it just wasn't doing the job, i will split it at somepoint to take a peak. Worth Considering on your John if you have a spare might be worth removing and trying it out to see if it makes any difference.
I'll try the stats etc when i get them. failing that i'll deffo give the water pump a go. very valid point, just because its new does not mean its working 100% :)
I'll try the stats etc when i get them. failing that i'll deffo give the water pump a go. very valid point, just because its new does not mean its working 100% :)
Do the ole hot and cold water tests a few times to make sure it opens ok, I know you know how to do it.
Quick thought is your rad fan turning in the correct direction :laugh: sucking and not blowing http://t3.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:CvkbBdthLSzmsM:http://i208.photobucket.com/albums/bb215/cerialxyum/rqvybb.gif (http://www.google.co.uk/imgres?imgurl=http://i208.photobucket.com/albums/bb215/cerialxyum/rqvybb.gif&imgrefurl=http://www.bullrun.com/node/5421&usg=__xgb7NjzGmqfkV0ygzJbXJbU399g=&h=46&w=50&sz=3&hl=en&start=1&tbnid=CvkbBdthLSzmsM:&tbnh=46&tbnw=50&prev=/images%3Fq%3Dblowjob%2Bsmiley%26um%3D1%26hl%3Den%2 6sa%3DN%26tbs%3Disch:1&um=1&itbs=1)
Pulled the old stat out it opened in the hot water but only partialy.. was getting stuck.. that more than likley was the issue.
Fan was one of the kits from the club... only one way to mount it... unless its wired wrong and puffing back... hmm
Pulled the old stat out it opened in the hot water but only partialy.. was getting stuck.. that more than likley was the issue. Could be the prob or not helping the cause
Fan was one of the kits from the club... only one way to mount it... unless its wired wrong and puffing back... hmm - Thas what I was thinking should be turning anti clockwise
Pulled the old stat out it opened in the hot water but only partialy.. was getting stuck.. that more than likley was the issue. Could be the prob or not helping the cause
Fan was one of the kits from the club... only one way to mount it... unless its wired wrong and puffing back... hmm - Thas what I was thinking should be turning anti clockwise
It runs hot.. fan only comes in to cool down the car at X point.. so the fan will not be the reason car runs hot regardless of fan .. in theory.. but i'll have a ganders :) love you babe
What radiator fan switch you got on her JRP. I would change it for a low temp one
What radiator fan switch you got on her JRP. I would change it for a low temp one
Standard, and i could do. But that again would not be a reason it was running hot.. it only makes a switch for a fan to come on. so in therory would just make the fan be working overtime. but yes a low temp switch would be worth while :):agree:
I need to find the reason its running at a constant hot temp.. personaly i feel its the stat ive changed in the top rad hose.
tiff_lee
22-07-2010, 18:30
Admittedly i'm yet to even drive my 5 on the road yet but still isn't the whole point of the fan to maintain the optimum running temp?
Does the fan cut in and out, i.e is it actually providing adequate cooling to reduce temps thus switching it off?
Other reasons to cause hot running temp, ignition timing or lean fuelling?
TrixNFlix
22-07-2010, 18:34
Jrp how sure are you that you are running hot, just from the renault 5 mickey mouse gauge, you may not even have a problem
yes a fan is suposed to cut in and out etc etc.. my point is that the car is at a permenant high temp whilst running... so a fan switch would not cure the problem, would mean the fan was doing over time, and thus masking the issue...
I hope people see what i mean, a fan switch does not have anything to this.. the car is not designed to run at the high temps iam seeing, and have never had with any of my other 5's
Id imagine it has somthing to do with the faulty stat in the top rad hose.. if changing this does not cure the issue, i'll look deeper possible water pump as sugested by james5..
Everything else is ok.. its a simple problem and i appreciate the ideas:)
Jrp how sure are you that you are running hot, just from the renault 5 mickey mouse gauge, you may not even have a problem
Put it this way.. iam driving down the road, and the temp of my car is on the line at which a normal fan switch would make to bring on the fan. on my gauge that a whole line to high... and when i say driving thats normal off boost driving.
And yes i have bled and bled the system.
TrixNFlix
22-07-2010, 18:42
Sorry re read your problem dude, campus stat is 89c, as you stated ,this is the problem its opening up too late. :agree:
tiff_lee
22-07-2010, 18:44
yes a fan is suposed to cut in and out etc etc.. my point is that the car is at a permenant high temp whilst running... so a fan switch would not cure the problem, would mean the fan was doing over time, and thus masking the issue...
I hope people see what i mean, a fan switch does not have anything to this.. the car is not designed to run at the high temps iam seeing, and have never had with any of my other 5's
Id imagine it has somthing to do with the faulty stat in the top rad hose.. if changing this does not cure the issue, i'll look deeper possible water pump as sugested by james5..
Everything else is ok.. its a simple problem and i appreciate the ideas:)
I'm not talking about changing a fan switch or anything, what I was saying is all the fan does is maintain the running temperature of the car and if it is cutting in/out then it is doing exactly that.
Could always pop the hose off top of the waterpump see what kind of flow you got coming out?
Sorry re read your problem dude, campus stat is 89c, as you stated ,this is the problem its opening up too late. :agree:
Turns out when i changed it it was a low temp jobbie, just failing to open. it opend on the piss. and would not have been letting a very good flow past. :)
I'm not talking about changing a fan switch or anything, what I was saying is all the fan does is maintain the running temperature of the car and if it is cutting in/out then it is doing exactly that.
Could always pop the hose off top of the waterpump see what kind of flow you got coming out?
Ahh sorry miss read that, what you said is exactly my point. that switch is irrelivant in this problem.
TrixNFlix
22-07-2010, 18:47
You sorted now? ive just lost track of whats the foooks going on, campus this stat that, i think in need sleep :laugh:
You sorted now? ive just lost track of whats the foooks going on, campus this stat that, i think in need sleep :laugh:
:laugh:
mine does this also although some days it will run abit cooler?
when we went out for a drive in your 5 on friday she was sitting on the 3rd line on the oe temp gage. when you pulled up in the garage and left her to idle the fan cut in just after the 3rd line right..or am i wrong
when we went out for a drive in your 5 on friday she was sitting on the 3rd line on the oe temp gage. when you pulled up in the garage and left her to idle the fan cut in just after the 3rd line right..or am i wrong
Yes dave you are right. the fan kicked in when it should have done.
But the temp should not sit up on that line it should sit the line below. so the temp the car is running at is too high.. the car should run on the line before or around the line before the one at which the fan cuts in.. well in most cases.
I dont get your point?
Get another stat lashed in :D
Gttnutter
23-07-2010, 09:23
spot on between the two lines is fan time, and a steady read is just under that
New thermostat in the top radiator hose cured the problem. now when im driving under no boost etc the temp stays down near the 2nd line as aposed to the 3rd line. just had a quick 20 min drive :)
thanks for input people
New thermostat in the top radiator hose cured the problem. now when im driving under no boost etc the temp stays down near the 2nd line as aposed to the 3rd line. just had a quick 20 min drive :)
thanks for input people
Good man, now go give the 5 a proper drive :burnrubber:
Good man, now go give the 5 a proper drive :burnrubber:
Yeah i'll limp it to yours tomorrow night :) :cooter: have your heels and leathers ready:laugh:
Yeah i'll limp it to yours tomorrow night :) :cooter: have your heels and leathers ready:laugh:
:cooter: Will this be it's first longish drive since being finished?
Gttnutter
23-07-2010, 11:28
now when im driving under no boost etc the temp stays down near the 2nd line as aposed to the 3rd line. just had a quick 20 min drive :)
:agree:
:cooter: Will this be it's first longish drive since being finished?
Yeah iam going to try average 67mph the whole way... hahahaha
Yes dave you are right. the fan kicked in when it should have done.
But the temp should not sit up on that line it should sit the line below. so the temp the car is running at is too high.. the car should run on the line before or around the line before the one at which the fan cuts in.. well in most cases.
I dont get your point?
What i was trying to say john is that mine in the summer sits just under where the fan comes on,where as in the winter it sits a lot lower. i would still change the rad fan switch if it kicks in just after the 3rd line.
O.e fan switch cuts the fan in just after the 2/3 mark, no need to panic its fine!
If it cuts in lower it must have a low temp switch fitted, imo not needed.
O.e fan switch cuts the fan in just after the 2/3 mark, no need to panic its fine!
If it cuts in lower it must have a low temp switch fitted, imo not needed.
brigsy why would i panic, im trying to tell john that my temp gage sits just under where the fan would cut in just like his but only in the summer. i always thought that the campus stat and switch run hotter than the oe gtt one.
Its all in jest mate!
Campus rad fan switch is the same as the gtt, its only there to stop overheating. With standard switch fitted the fan doesnt kick in every 5 mins when driving slowly, only comes on when it needs to:)
Its all in jest mate!
Campus rad fan switch is the same as the gtt, its only there to stop overheating. With standard switch fitted the fan doesnt kick in every 5 mins when driving slowly, only comes on when it needs to:)
:agree:i got ya;)
As i said chaps its sorted, was just a restriction in the top rad hose, meaning water backing up in the pump... bear in mind the temp reader is in the pump housing... a restriction would mean hot water by the sensor for longer hence high readings.
stat in hose changed now running at a sexualy low temp :)
Jimmy_GTT
23-07-2010, 19:54
As i said chaps its sorted, was just a restriction in the top rad hose, meaning water backing up in the pump... bear in mind the temp reader is in the pump housing... a restriction would mean hot water by the sensor for longer hence high readings.
stat in hose changed now running at a sexualy low temp :)
What temp of stat have you bought mate?
just a 79/83 i think you can get them in halfords but check in the box they always have wrong stat in the box. i got mine from mike aka phase i 16v
Just a top rad stat....
just a 79/83 i think you can get them in halfords but check in the box they always have wrong stat in the box. i got mine from mike aka phase i 16v
Just a top rad stat....
Yeah i got a new one from Halfords a few days ago, the one listed for the 1400cc non turbo was 86 and the GTT one was 83 :)
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