volvo engine questions

[SCHWARTZ]

right ive just picked up the volvo engine yesterday and have a few questions.
first of all the cam has what looks like score marks on the lobes. I have only looked through the oil filler cap but it dose look like the lines dont go to the tip of the lobe is this usual?:crap:
what can i chuck away? i have read the threads on what to keep etc... and i want to remove anything i dont need to keep it as simple as poss, so i will be getting rid ot the electric water pump and the one that blows air but is it just a case of taking them off and blocking any pipes (water) or do i need to connect them up to the water system to keep it all flowing?
what do i need left on the wiring loom does anyone have any pix of what it can be trimmed down to?
any help on this will be ace and if anyone has any tricks or tips that will help me with what to do and mainly stop me from messing it up would be great also. :D
also do i need the 440 down pipe? if i get one will it bolt up to my exhaust or will it need modifying any way? :crap:

[Haz]

at last lol. the cam should be smooth, but i've seen them like that, dependin on severity it just makes them a bit noisier, no power losses etc but just check now n then its not gettin worse, assuming you will check it all over n it good otherwise.
there's loads you can chuck away, bit more if your goin for bigger turbo etc. bit too much to list but if you pop loads of pics up i'll point it all out, may help others doin the conversion, and coulf be compiled as part of an article too. the injector fan can go, so can the elec water pump, just joining the hoses up is easiest but alot of hoses coul be changed, or like those sections cut out and replaced with metal pipes.
the loom can have half of it removed and can almost be halved again in length if you were to custom fit it, but to be fair i'd leave it as it is for now, it can be looped round the 5 engine bay quite nicely and you dont want to add further work and possible problems.
the 440 downpipe is the best to use if you stickin with std turbo and joins into a scorpion etc quite easily, if you have no exhasut the the full volvo system can be uesd with just a few alterations too, and is actually the same diameter!

[SCHWARTZ]

I have taken some pix of bits im wondering if i can remove or not and il post em up after me sunday lunch :D
in regards to turbo i will be fitting a different one t2/t25 as i have it from the 5 i was thinking of using that flexable exhaust pipe to join my downpipe to the exhaust dono if thats a good idea but saves on getting a custom one made.
also i cant see a tdc with the loom i guess it was left on the gearbox:rolleyes:
can i use my one from the 5 with a little modification?
Getting a thread goin on this sounds like a good idea so il try and take pix as the build progersses hopefully it will help peeps in the same situation. :D

[SCHWARTZ]

some photos added was wondering if these bits can be removed and what the pipes are going to the throttle body and if they can be blocked off?
http://i773.photobucket.com/albums/yy12/schwartz87/Car%20Parts/Photo002-1.jpg
http://i773.photobucket.com/albums/yy12/schwartz87/Car%20Parts/Photo003.jpg
http://i773.photobucket.com/albums/yy12/schwartz87/Car%20Parts/Photo006-1.jpg
I know this pipe goes to the ecu so needs to be kept but what are the other ones for?:confused:

[SCHWARTZ]

dose anyone have a wiring diagram and coolant diagram?

[SCHWARTZ]

looking the engine over all seems ok but i can turn it over by hand using the flywheel and clutch with the plugs in. I know these engines have low comp pistons but is this normal? there is resistance so it has compression but not enough to stop me turning it over.:confused:

[sieger]

i don't know how good your knowlage of german is but here is a link

http://cid-b2bf9804fa8cfdf0.skydrive.live.com/browse.aspx/Volvo%20440%20460%20480

all the documents for the 480

also a few available on

http://www.volvo-480-europe.org/volvo480/downloads.php

[SCHWARTZ]

my germans a lil rusty :laugh: but i may be able to translate it, cheers fella all help is very welcomed! :D

[Haz]

first pic is the idle control valve, can be binned but obviously idle wont self adjust, so ends up high when hotter.
the other is a sump breather, all that can be binned too and pop a mini filter on or pipe to an oil catch tank but til your runnin higher just remove the foam, much easier.
the little bkt above the alt can go. take off from that bung off the back of the manifold for the brake servo, as about the same size to mate up with the 5 one way valve.
second pic. the 2 vac pipes into the sensor on water pipe can be taken off, no need to bung. clear vac pipe on inlet can go if your not using boost solinoid. also that 3 pin connector with sensor isn't needed.
reciric d/v optional, and atmospheric ones upset the afm and aren't allowed !
water cooler oil cooler and pipes can go if plannin on usin a gtt rad, sandwich plate and lines.
only 6 wires to get it running, which i suggest you leave the loom complete til then, half isnt required but some wires split into 2 etc so can end up a mess

[SCHWARTZ]

cheers matey all pipes, pumps, valves and brackets are off and engine is gona get a nice clean and all the gaskets changed then its on with the fitting:D

[philg]

take some pictures as you go mate :)


phil

[SCHWARTZ]

yer will do when something changes havnt done to much yet hopefuly this sunday.:D

[SCHWARTZ]

right engine is now all bolted to the ggt gearbox and subframe. one thing i will mention is that at the rear of the gearbox (near the starter motor) there is a theaded rod that goes through the gtt block this needs needs to be removed and the locating dowel as it hits on the flywheel this may not need to be removed for the small flywheel versions but i dont know! il ad some pics soon.

[James5]

right engine is now all bolted to the ggt gearbox and subframe. one thing i will mention is that at the rear of the gearbox (near the starter motor) there is a theaded rod that goes through the gtt block this needs needs to be removed and the locating dowel as it hits on the flywheel this may not need to be removed for the small flywheel versions but i dont know! il ad some pics soon.



Good to hear it's coming together. Had to remove those bits also when I dud the 172 conversion. Defo get some pics up would love to see the progress

[SCHWARTZ]

il try and get some piccys up if i get an early day off work. Another question for ya all this ones fueling related. I have a rising rate regulator but nothing atm to adapt the fuel rail, is it poss to take the pressure hose of the standard regulator and just run the fuel through it to the new regulator and connect the pressure hose to that??

[SCHWARTZ]

This is as far as i have got. It has been quite a slow process as im on my own but it is possible to fit the engine on your own if you drop the subframe!!:D Also awaiting parts for a rebuild before it goes in!
http://i773.photobucket.com/albums/yy12/schwartz87/Photo004.jpg
http://i773.photobucket.com/albums/yy12/schwartz87/Photo007.jpg

[philg]

looking good

[SCHWARTZ]

its slow progress but i can only work on it for a couple of hours each weekend which is gay lol.

[SCHWARTZ]

few more questions;
will a t2t25 fit on the normal manifold without fowling the bulkhead? If so will there be enough room to run a boost hose round the back of the engine? If i rotate the turbo housings what happens to the actuator? I guess some kind of bracket will have to be made up to hold it in place. Im stuck with what to do for the best here, is there another manifold that will get the turbo around to the side of the engine (like markys)?

[Markey Mark (BD)]

few more questions;
will a t2t25 fit on the normal manifold without fowling the bulkhead? If so will there be enough room to run a boost hose round the back of the engine? If i rotate the turbo housings what happens to the actuator? I guess some kind of bracket will have to be made up to hold it in place. Im stuck with what to do for the best here, is there another manifold that will get the turbo around to the side of the engine (like markys)?

Only manifold about at the moment is the Prima one as mentioned earlier in this thread i think, i think you won't have a problem with fitting a T2/T25 on the original manifold clearence should be fine. Yes you will need to knock up a new bracket for the actuator if you rotate the compressor housing buts it's not a major problem.

On the manifold side, i sold the prima one i had to a mate but we're having a new one made at the moment which copies the prima design. Big Jim Racing is doing it at the moment.
Its being done so it mounts the turbo in the GT position which makes access easier, its not going to be a mega horsepower engine so power gains aren't main concern but it should work well.

[SCHWARTZ]

what sort of money is that looking to cost? will the gt exhaust bolt straight up to the turbo with that? If using the standard volvo manifold is it best to drill out the threaded holes on the t2 rather than the other way round?

[Markey Mark (BD)]

what sort of money is that looking to cost? will the gt exhaust bolt straight up to the turbo with that? If using the standard volvo manifold is it best to drill out the threaded holes on the t2 rather than the other way round?

Will find out next weekend mate as we're picking the manifold up then.

Depending on where the turbo is fianlly positioned the original downpipe may well be able to be used. Would make fitting the exhaust to the conversion alot easier.

Yes i would drill the threads out then use the original nuts on the manifold to hold the turbo on.

[SCHWARTZ]

yer thought that was the only real way. if you wouldnt mind letting me know how much it cost ya might get something like that nokcked up myself:D if it bolts up to the origional exaust you'd be saving what a custom downpipe costs anyway.

[Markey Mark (BD)]

For those that wanted to see it here is the copy of the Prima manifold for the Volvo engine that Big Jim has done for me, its for a mates engine.

It now means there is a Prima manifold for sale as its not needed now.;)

[Haz]

as far as i'm aware the prima manifold was designed so that a gtt t2 could be fitted, and mates up to the gtt downpipe. only problem is that larger turbo's wont bolt to the manifold as they touch the head, so needs extending so i assume the crosspipe will.
mark, it looks like a copy of the prima, has it been extended to fit the larger turbo's?

[Markey Mark (BD)]

as far as i'm aware the prima manifold was designed so that a gtt t2 could be fitted, and mates up to the gtt downpipe. only problem is that larger turbo's wont bolt to the manifold as they touch the head, so needs extending so i assume the crosspipe will.
mark, it looks like a copy of the prima, has it been extended to fit the larger turbo's?

Yeah its been made to fit the T28 off the 200SX, its only loosely based on it mate in the the design of it and where the turbo sits. ;)

[SCHWARTZ]

right the engine is finally fitted after having a rebuild with a gasket set leads filters etc... and heres a few pix.
slight modification to the alternator bracket needed.
http://i773.photobucket.com/albums/yy12/schwartz87/Photo006-1.jpg
http://i773.photobucket.com/albums/yy12/schwartz87/Photo002-1.jpg
http://i773.photobucket.com/albums/yy12/schwartz87/Photo001.jpg
turbo sits as it dose on the c1j using a log manifold made by big jim racing, crossover pipe and exhaust all bolt up nicely.
http://i773.photobucket.com/albums/yy12/schwartz87/Photo003.jpg