PDA

View Full Version : liner seals



nemesis 1006
30-03-2010, 11:50
anyone got any hints tips tricks or advise on changing the liner seals on my phase 2 gt turbo anything would be helpfull as iv never done anything to to bottom end before :scratch:also will it affect the timing :confused:
cheers

James5
30-03-2010, 12:31
anyone got any hints tips tricks or advise on changing the liner seals on my phase 2 gt turbo anything would be helpfull as iv never done anything to to bottom end before :scratch:also will it affect the timing :confused:
cheers

Why are you changing the liner seals? are you doing any other work on the engine??

You will need a h/g + bolts and some sump sealant, and the sump end seals 2 x 1/2 moon shaped.

Liner seals require the head to come off and the sump removed to enable you to undo the big end caps (keep the caps in the correct order and matched to the correct piston rods) prob best to number up the pistons 1 2 3 & 4 (Flywheel end is number 1 on the GTT) and also note on the caps to the corresponding piston/ con rod. To get the liners out, It is best to take the liners out with the pistons still in the liner (unless you need to hone or replace piston / piston rings), i always use a bit of sealant aswell as the liner seal aswell.

This does not mess with timeing unless

nemesis 1006
30-03-2010, 13:02
im doing the liner seals because im getting water in the oil i first thought it myt be the head gasket but i changed the hg and used new bolts but when i started it up i had the same problem i thought it myt be because i used an old head gasket that i had laying around from a previous 5 i had ill add it had'nt been used before but it was old and damp :confused: but iv been looking at older posts and people are saying that it could be the liner seals and when i removed the head one of the liners poped up but i just pushed it back down and got on with rebuilding it, iv got a new hg and new bolts iv just had the head skimmed but i dont know weather to just put it all back together and see wot happens or change the seals just to be safe :scratch::confused:

nemesis 1006
30-03-2010, 13:04
This does not mess with timeing unless[/quote]

:confused::confused: ?

James5
30-03-2010, 13:54
This does not mess with timeing unless

:confused::confused: ?[/quote]


:laugh: :dearme::wasntme:should have said unless you knock the dizzy gear out when or if you remove the dizzy shaft, but if all done carefully all will be fine

James5
30-03-2010, 14:01
:confused::confused: ?


:laugh: :dearme::wasntme:should have said unless you knock the dizzy gear out when or if you remove the dizzy shaft, but if all done carefully all will be fine[/quote]


When you say old H/G do you mean new but been lying around for a while or do you mean old as in used??

If you have oil in water, check the liner, I would also check the rad hasn't split and oil leaking into the coolant side of it.

nemesis 1006
30-03-2010, 14:03
:D oh i see cheers for the advise im gunna get cracking with it now:wasntme: :laugh: gunna b a late one in the garage me thinks :coffee:

nemesis 1006
30-03-2010, 15:42
i mean that it was laying around for about a year or so but was never fitted to a car and im running an alloy rad with a seperate oil cooler and its water in the oil and like mayo under the rocker cover and also it has the white smoke/steam and it dont run smooth it stutters if you get wot i mean but when i was adjusting the valve clearances after the first rebuild, turning the crank pully it seemed to have good compresion :scratch:

Markey Mark (BD)
30-03-2010, 16:07
When you took the head off did you check the head for flatness and poss have it pressure tested to see if it wasn't the head.

nemesis 1006
30-03-2010, 16:49
yh i took it to an engine works company cus i had it skimmed and thay said it was abit warped but apart from that all was fine :confused:

Markey Mark (BD)
30-03-2010, 16:53
yh i took it to an engine works company cus i had it skimmed and thay said it was abit warped but apart from that all was fine :confused:

Did you get it skimmed then if it was warped?

rs250nut
30-03-2010, 17:00
Did you get it skimmed then if it was warped?

Read it again mark;)

nemesis 1006
30-03-2010, 17:03
:dearme: yh i had it skimmed :laugh:

Markey Mark (BD)
30-03-2010, 17:09
:dearme: yh i had it skimmed :laugh:

Sorry just noticed it in there in a previous post, ok cool least the head is fine then.

nemesis 1006
30-03-2010, 17:18
:wasntme: no worries buddy im gunna change the liner seals anyway while the head is off just for peace of mind that way i know there done then :agree: cheers for the help and advise, looks like im gunna be up late tonite :coffee:

Markey Mark (BD)
30-03-2010, 17:20
As the heads off already its not a bad job to do, once you got the sump off to undo the con-rods pull the piston and liner out as one then change seal and then replace it back in.
Do one at a time so you don't get the bearings all mixed up for the crank. ;)

nemesis 1006
30-03-2010, 17:52
just wondering wot sort of sealant to use iv got the bottom end gasket set now but im unsure what sealant to use can i just use the gasket in a tube on the seals aswell as the rubber ones and also can i use it on the sump:scratch:

James5
30-03-2010, 18:43
just wondering wot sort of sealant to use iv got the bottom end gasket set now but im unsure what sealant to use can i just use the gasket in a tube on the seals aswell as the rubber ones and also can i use it on the sump:scratch:

I just use loctite sump sealant about £7-£8 from halfrauds and I have used it on liners also just make sure you give it enough time to dry before you put coolant in so it cures / drys properly.

TrixNFlix
30-03-2010, 18:53
I just use loctite sump sealant about £7-£8 from halfrauds and I have used it on liners also just make sure you give it enough time to dry before you put coolant in so it cures / drys properly.

:agree:
I dont know if anyone else does this, but i apply it to the sump, leave it for 15 mins to go tacky and harden a bit, then attach it to the block, never had any leaks this way.

James5
30-03-2010, 19:15
:agree:
I dont know if anyone else does this, but i apply it to the sump, leave it for 15 mins to go tacky and harden a bit, then attach it to the block, never had any leaks this way.

Never done it like that normally whack it straight on and leave for a while before I put oil in.
And forgot to ad earlier yeah you can use sealant on the rubber seals if you want it won't cause any harm but the rubber seals should be enough anyway.

I should have said I use the sealant in conjuction with the liner seals together.

TrixNFlix
30-03-2010, 19:34
Never done it like that normally whack it straight on and leave for a while before I put oil in.
And forgot to ad earlier yeah you can use sealant on the rubber seals if you want it won't cause any harm but the rubber seals should be enough anyway.

I should have said I use the sealant in conjuction with the liner seals together.

Deffo put a bit of silicone sealant around the liner seals like james said. Dont use gasket sealer on them as you'll never get them out again.:laugh:

I think that wacking the sump straight onto the block ends with a uneven level of sealer around the block, resulting in possible leakages, but thats just my opinion. As james says though, if you seal it right you wont need to put gasket sealer on the end rubber seals.

nemesis 1006
03-04-2010, 10:37
cheers for all the help guys :agree: she's going now also after closer inspection i found number three clyinder to be cracked but she's all back together now and running so thanks people :D