b18ft guide for the novice

[philg]

Right guys i thought i would start off a thread for this as i realy am going to be needing some help :scared:.

I picked up the car today its a full car 440 turbo, i have been told it has bigger T5 injectors, richmod ecu and a bit more boost.

I had planned to change injectors, n/a cam, air filter, exhaust and a little bit of head work. Maybee a bigger blower later on.

I have never built an engine before so its going to be a learning curve. I have a friend of mine who is a mechanic and is going to be helping me right through this, Thank god.

Having said I'm hoping you guys are going to give me some help, so others can benefit from reading this.

We are pulling the engine out next week, so what do i need and what can i bin. Can i use the radiator, intercooler, starter etc?

I have downloaded the ecu wiring diagram courtesy of scoff, is there any easy way to tell what i need and what i don't?

I will have a look at the injectors to see if they have been upgraded. I also need to check the cam see if thats standard and the turbo to, Do they have any markings on i can look out for?

I have had a quick look for the ecus, there is one in the engine bay but can not see the other. I have been given the standard ecu with the car but have been told that the other has has the rich mod. I presume that is the same thing that scoff does to delock the ecu for more boost.

I have downloaded the b18ft guide that should be a big help.

Thanks phil

[dave r5]

ive only ever pulled engines from a 480 so they may not bolt up the same but the rear gearbox mount is a pain, drop the rear of the subframe to make it easyer.

keep as much of the down pipe as posible
keep all water pipes and boost pipes
if it has an engine damper keep that to
ive never kept the rad or i/c but it the may be able to b used.

agen not sure about the 440 but the ecus on a 480 are in the car the black box is in the side of the center concole. the mettal ecu is under the dash

[philg]

Found both ecus 1 in engine bay 2nd is in the drivers foot well.

Engine is coming out on friday, wish me luck.


phil

[scott25]

can remember pullin engine out of 480 i bought, had to cut all front end off to pull it out coz down pipe wouldnt come off, all good fun though lol

[philg]

Right engine out today, few questions.

The gear box has and elec pick up for speed, how do i convert to cable?

What Throttle body do i need?

Is it a gtx alt bracket, belt and front engine mount? Part numbers if poss :)

I need some info on wires to remove orange block, colours etc.

Should i remove the idle control valve?

The t2 thats on its was a bit oily, i have a spare t2, is it the wastgate i need oft a t25? Would i not be better just changing the turbo now, Does the t25 go straight on, and t28 that needs modifying?

I don't have a gt turbo radiator so was going to try and fit the 440 and run a separate oil cooler, what the best and easiest to fit?

I read on the b18ft conversion thread to remove the electric water pump, good idea?

Anymore help with this guys would be great :)

[scott25]

hi mate, the part number i have for the gtx mount is R77 00 716 912 from gordon lamb renault £20.60, all i did with the alt bracket was cut it down with grinder to remove the power steering pump bracket worked a treat

as for oil cooler personly i have a 10 row single width cooler about 300mm long with a sandwich plate with thermostat to stop over cooling (1/2" bsp threads)

i would remove the electric water pump just to make the coolant system easyer to re-fit

hope this helps abit, not sure about the rest but could do with knowing myself lol

[philg]

hi mate, the part number i have for the gtx mount is R77 00 716 912 from gordon lamb renault £20.60, all i did with the alt bracket was cut it down with grinder to remove the power steering pump bracket worked a treat

as for oil cooler personly i have a 10 row single width cooler about 300mm long with a sandwich plate with thermostat to stop over cooling (1/2" bsp threads)

i would remove the electric water pump just to make the coolant system easyer to re-fit

hope this helps abit, not sure about the rest but could do with knowing myself lol


What car was the cooler off, or was it a ebay jobbie?


phil

[Miller]

Phil

I have a full wiring guide for a 440 to a Clio 16v but i am struggling to find it, i know its in my files somewhere, i will dig it out this Sunday as i am having a big clean up:)

most of it will be suitable for you:smokin:

[scott25]

Oil cooler was an ebay job, wasnt expensive though and just got hoses made at local hose company but asked them to be made in overbraided hose so they looked better, as for wires couldnt tell ya, i used the full volvo loom and just cut out what wasnt needed, but wasnt easy

[philg]

Phil

I have a full wiring guide for a 440 to a Clio 16v but i am struggling to find it, i know its in my files somewhere, i will dig it out this Sunday as i am having a big clean up:)

most of it will be suitable for you:smokin:

thanks

phil

[Haz]

why are you rebulidin the engine? if it aint broke then dont fix it lol. unless you goin for big spec where every little helps i wouldn't bother with the head work. only thing i'd suggest is to do the cambelt and clutch and clean it all up. pretty sure the t5 injectors are the same green ones found in volvo 740t's not just the t5's. they'll fuel fine for 18-20psi, but std blower aint much use after 15psi tho.
regards what to keep, told swartz to get some pics up, but if you get chance too, take some pics and i'll doctor them so other can see what is required, and may be of some use in the atricle too.
440 rad and cooler are too big. simplest way is to use a gtt rad with built in oil cooler.
i'll be able to tell if the cam and turbo are std from the pics too, and whether its an eariler or later model with larger 215mm clutch.
the gearbox, leave the elec sensor in situe and just trim the wires off, above that is a bung, pull that out n slide in the cable, same as it is on a clio.
2 ltr volvo throttle will have a faster response, but does require a bit of fiddlin to swap the sensor over as its a 3pin. it can be left unplugged and works fine but you loose the accelerator part of the map.
if your not needing to do any alterations to the boost pipes, like afm bypass pipe, increased boost etc then you may aswell leave the idle valve in, they'll idle a little high with out, just depends how simple you want to make it
change the turbo, you wnat look back, t2, 25 and 28 all bolt onto the manifold fine, with the t2 the std volvo downpipe can be used, with anythin else a custom one needs to be made and it is a tad tight for room.
you only need 3 wires to fire the engine up, wat connector by the ecu's have you got?

[philg]

Right here are a few pictures

Is this the correct oil pipe i change for flexi?

The clutch.

The radiator, seller mentioned it was not off a 440 turbo :scratch:.

Intercooler.

Gearbox, is this what i need to remove for cable and whats the best way.

phil

[philg]

This was the spare turbo

[SCHWARTZ]

pretty sure in that 1st pix thats the pipe you want to change for a braided one.

[philg]

pretty sure in that 1st pix thats the pipe you want to change for a braided one.


Thought so :)

[Haz]

yeah the correct pipe, make sure if you're fitting a braided get a similar shape made, i've seen some touching the manifold, not good for the rubber beneath the braid, and others so close to the starter wires that they have earthed out nicely!
rads a 480, has outlets in same place as 440, just shorter in width. can be used but the bottom hose needs a fair bit shortenin.
intercooler is 440, takes far to much effort to fit in the bay n not worth choppin the bumper for something that looks, well, like that. with the added bonus of the end caps poppin off about 18psi.
yeah thats the bit, just a bkt with a bolt through the original gt cable hole

[philg]

thanks haz :)

[philg]

So i could use the radiator, just cut my pipes to fit and run a separate oil cooler. Haz i know the frontera intercooler is a good bet are these easy fit?

Or if i buy a brand new gt turbo radiator with the built in oil cooler, which one is it i need, i have seen a genuine copper core one on ebay for about £150, are there different types?


Here is the picture off the pink plug, can anyone remember what the wires all do, i believe is just 3 i need to get me away.

phil

[scott25]

cant help with the wires but i just purchased a frontera intercooler of haz, fits nicely in front of rad so makes it a good grill mounted cooler (pics will be on soon), as for rad ive used a r5 alloy rad off ebay for 100 notes, pretty good quality and should help keep cool but have to run a seperate oil cooler

[blaze]

So i could use the radiator, just cut my pipes to fit and run a separate oil cooler. Haz i know the frontera intercooler is a good bet are these easy fit?

Or if i buy a brand new gt turbo radiator with the built in oil cooler, which one is it i need, i have seen a genuine copper core one on ebay for about £150, are there different types?


Here is the picture off the pink plug, can anyone remember what the wires all do, i believe is just 3 i need to get me away.

phil


grey - ignition live

grey/red thick wire - fuel pump

blue/brown - tacho

red - aux water pump (if u want 2 use it)

[Haz]

easiest option on the rad is a new std version. copper core dont seem to be any better than std unless brand new, and tend to crack where the pipe outlets are. ali jobbie is nice but then there's extra cost on oil cooler and lines too

[philg]

thanks guys

[scott25]

would i be right in sayin the pipe in pic 1 is the turbo oil feed, if so is it critical that its changed for flexi, are they that comman for breaking as ive left standard one on, first ive herd of this

[SCHWARTZ]

yer i thought that the standard one looked ok but have been advised by many who know alot more than i do to change it for a braided hose as the pipe cracks at the unions.

[Haz]

i've only had 2 of about 15 engines that it has cracked where the bkt is welded on in the centre so it can be bolted to the block. main reason i used to change half the bits before the engine went in is because it far easier as there's not alot of room once it is

[scott25]

Thanks for that, will change soon i think just to be safe

[boostjunky]

My tip for your exhaust system ---- I retained the entire Volvo downpipe for my conversion, trial fitted the engine and got under the car - marked up the Volvo dp in relation to the GT Turbo front pipe.

Took the Volvo dp and GTT front pipe off the car and to an exhaust fabricator who cut the GTT front pipe and welded on a flange to connect to the Volvo dp. I used a thick bead of 3M silicone sealant between the flanges instead of using a gasket.

Ben

[philg]

Right we have had the engine apart today, i have a few parts needed and a few questions.

I know Swartz is doing this so hope you can help, i need a full gasket set, the one you got from euro parts does that come with the sump and water pump?

I'm getting the flywheel lightened and balanced, the clutch is a 215 valeo, should i just replace this or go for an uprated jobbie, Prices would be great.

Where is best place for head bolts?

Does anyone have a ep or e cam, or tell me what engine they come out of, is it the n/a 1.7 or the n/a 2.0? My cam has a 166 marking on it.

I'm looking to baffle the sump, anyone advise a kit, i have seen them that just sit in the bottom of the sump.

I need a new water pump, looks a bit old and ropey.

I also need a timing belt, oil return pipe for turbo, dealer parts i guess, or should i seek copy bits?

I also need to make up a braided jobbie for the turbo oil feed, im going to take the stock item to measure off, same size or make it different, did you all make brackets to keep it out the way?

I need all the mounts, engine and g-box and the gtx mount and bracket, dealer parts or are there stiffer item out there?

I also need a larger throttle body anyone got one or what model they off, i guess the n/a 2.0?

The gear box is going in for a refurb as to is the head and bottom end getting a check over to.

phil

[SCHWARTZ]

Right we have had the engine apart today, i have a few parts needed and a few questions.

I know Swartz is doing this so hope you can help, i need a full gasket set, the one you got from euro parts does that come with the sump and water pump?

I'm getting the flywheel lightened and balanced, the clutch is a 215 valeo, should i just replace this or go for an uprated jobbie, Prices would be great.

Where is best place for head bolts?

Does anyone have a ep or e cam, or tell me what engine they come out of, is it the n/a 1.7 or the n/a 2.0? My cam has a 166 marking on it.

I'm looking to baffle the sump, anyone advise a kit, i have seen them that just sit in the bottom of the sump.

I need a new water pump, looks a bit old and ropey.

I also need a timing belt, oil return pipe for turbo, dealer parts i guess, or should i seek copy bits?

I also need to make up a braided jobbie for the turbo oil feed, im going to take the stock item to measure off, same size or make it different, did you all make brackets to keep it out the way?

I need all the mounts, engine and g-box and the gtx mount and bracket, dealer parts or are there stiffer item out there?

I also need a larger throttle body anyone got one or what model they off, i guess the n/a 2.0?

The gear box is going in for a refurb as to is the head and bottom end getting a check over to.

phil

1st of all no sump or water pump gaskets:sad2: was a bit disapointed about that so will need to get that seperaetly.
I think the standard clutch is suposed to be good as its used as an upgrade for the c1j
hopfuly ian s will be able to get these high tensile head bolts made up rather than using the standard bolts
sure it wouldnt be to hard to baffle the sump yourself little bit of welding.
the gtt engine mount can be drilled (thats what i did) to fit the volvo lump and the rest are all standard gtt mounts there are stiffer mounts out there but dont know if thats nessary.

[philg]

1st of all no sump or water pump gaskets:sad2: was a bit disapointed about that so will need to get that seperaetly.
I think the standard clutch is suposed to be good as its used as an upgrade for the c1j
hopfuly ian s will be able to get these high tensile head bolts made up rather than using the standard bolts
sure it wouldnt be to hard to baffle the sump yourself little bit of welding.
the gtt engine mount can be drilled (thats what i did) to fit the volvo lump and the rest are all standard gtt mounts there are stiffer mounts out there but dont know if thats nessary.

Right so i need to sorce the extra gaskets, been chating with haz, he says the standard clutch is ok, but the sax version is better.

Head bolts he has never replaced, and say the sumps are fine with out baffeling.

Im going to need mounts as i have only the ones i took out the 440.

phil

[SCHWARTZ]

mike aka ph1 16v sells mounts and gtx brackets mice bloke mite be worth speeking to.

[SCHWARTZ]

head bolts £11.10 gsf
http://www.eurocarparts.com/ecp/c/Volvo_400+Series_440_1.7_1990/p/Car-Parts/Engine-Parts/Engine-Parts/Head-Bolts/?300745091&1&f1e11652dd9108e87e974041eaea497e4028feda&HDBL