Under piston oil spray bars

[Tony Walker]

Anyone manage to make something like this? i keep trying to think of ways of providing a spray under the pistons( cheap options) electric pump, maybe a fuel pump or a power steering pump used as another alternator belt tensioner.

[Rob@Backyardracing]

Just use the original oil pump, you need to know where the oil gallery is to drill and insert the sprays, you can buy sprays pretty cheap.. the hardest part is to try and find the correct postion and drilling the oil gallery.. never looked at 5 so cant help..

[Miller]

BB tuning used to do it so it is possible.......how they did it, i do not know:(

[Rob@Backyardracing]

Well you find the oil gallery that feeds the mains simple, of course you want the spray jet to spray towards the power face of the bore aswell, so the jets will be rear of block.. Be easier if the crank was housed in an oil feed gerdle...

[Tony Walker]

I'd be worried of reducing the pressure to the mains.

[Ron]

I have done this to my mini engine using oil sprays from a ford zetec. Luckily on the A series engine the gallery runs perfectly so that it can be tapped into. I dont know if it would be possible with the C1J though.

[Ron]

I'd be worried of reducing the pressure to the mains.

Alot of the sprays will only work above a certain pressure. The valve in the zetec jet opens at 40psi.

[Logg]

BB Tuning use to offer this on there re builds but would not sell the bit for home fitting.

[markey b]

vauxhall boys used to use the ones from the 1700 izuzu diesel engine

they had ball valves so didn't operate if the oil pressure was too low, which was handy as they were drilled into the feed for the main bearings on the crank

[Rob@Backyardracing]

This is true but this is how most spray bars work ive seen and are feed from the supply to the mains, then as you know mains feed bigs via crank.. but upping the oil pressure is poss too... shim the pump.. But like most peeps may be thinking when reading this why to a GT turbo must you run sprays..:confused:

[markey b]

and here are how ford do it

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0803/vroooom_ptssssh/My%20Car/ZVH%20Engine/DSC01530.jpg

[Rob@Backyardracing]

oh and as said ALL jets ive seen have valves.. cost about £8 each this is for m96 porsche engines... but i only build porsche engines.. so cant comment on any other makes...

[5teve L]

As you say Rob... Why does the old C1J need them after all this time ?
Wonder if BB did actually fit anything that worked, did anyone see them ?

[dave r5]

the volvo b18ft has them

sorry if its useless info :crap:

[James5]

As you say Rob... Why does the old C1J need them after all this time ?
Wonder if BB did actually fit anything that worked, did anyone see them ?


Someone must have taken apart one of the BBPT C1J engines with the kit fitted by now? surely

Doesn't the 1.8 valver engine run under pistons spray aswell but i don't think the F4r did. I am sure i heard BBPT used the valver parts.:scratch:

[Lewis]

F7P, F7R and F4R engines have oil spray jets.

[Tony Walker]

I know there not completely necessary, but alot of modern engines, particualy turbo petrol engines have them, manufacturers fit them for a reason so just thought id look in to it. I know bore wear isnt really a problem my thinking is more for piston cooling, perhaps reducing chances of detonation/pre ignition. Potentially meaning more ignition advance. Ive got a spare engine so it was just something to tinker with really.

[MFaulks]

IMO there are advantages and disadvantages for running them. I have added them to Fiat TC blocks over the years, but not entirely convinced they are a major advantage. From my own experience the spray being aimed at the inlet side of the underside of the piston crown, with aim to increase the activation energy of the local fuel / air mixture (by heat input) to ensure rapid burn and reduce tendency for detonation; detonation usually starts in the low temp end gas zones. The down side is causing detonation through loading the piston rings with oil and getting increased oil loading in the cylinder, which will bring on detonation, especially with pistons with large crevice volumes above the top ring – old designs.

I always look at the underside of the piston crown and judge the colour of the backed-on oil. As soon as it starts going shinny (glazed) in appearance you are into over-heat territory, but black as hell as long as it’s still matt you are good to go.

Given that the oil scrapper and 2nd ring are there primarily as oil control rings, I avoid loading the cylinder walls with added oil, they are already being pushed, especially if you use low tension rings.

Just my thoughts and experience :coffee:

[Tony Walker]

No problem, any actual experience is more than welcome. I only really know what i can read on the internet.You say the aim is usually inlet side, i was led to believe it would be the power side, which on the 5 would be neither inlet or exhaust side lol is there any benefit to cooling the power side or am i wrong in thinking it would cool at all??