View Full Version : just another GTTi project
Megabytes
06-06-2012, 20:09
New poster! (less than 10 posts)
Damn !!
That's beutifull !!!! :eek:
I really love your work !
thanks, compliments appreciated.
Here's the result before post-curing and trimming the edges. I used 1.1m2 of CF +650g epoxy+100g of foam. Some epoxy was sucked out during vacuum bagging so I'm propably looking weight increase somewhere around 550-650g.
Hood is trimmed and back on. It seems that I need to adjust the fixings a bit to get it positioned perfectly again. To do this I need to have all the front's panels installed. That's why I started trimming front bumper and took some trial fitting pictures. Since the bumper is now "open mouth" it doesn't look as OE as my original target was. I still have to say that the result looks sick. :D
I can't wait to get everything fitted, surfaces damages repaired and clear coated.
allanr5gtt
10-06-2012, 13:29
looking good. great project
That's going to be awesome!!
whats the plan, polish and lacquer the c/f or paint?
polish & lacquer everything in CF. Body will be painted but haven't decided yet if I keep it red or do something else.
TNT Tricky Nicky
11-06-2012, 19:24
looking good, will look even better when finished.
I know it's a trial fit but hopefully you can get the grill to sit better as my eye was drawn straight to it. will you put mesh in the bumper/grill or leave them as is?
I think you need a bright colour to make the carbon stand out, I'd try and avoid a matt black or dark colours :agree:
p.s I would weight some parts for you to compare but most of mine are full of filler :ashamed:
Yes, the gap between hood and grill isnt correct currently. I need to adjust hood fittings since it was better before doing inner structure for the hood. Same problem between wings and hood.
Too much filler in my mould donator parts as well which is why I can't scale any OE condition parts myself
TrixNFlix
11-06-2012, 23:08
polish & lacquer everything in CF. Body will be painted but haven't decided yet if I keep it red or do something else.
I would paint the standard panels tungsten grey or black or similar to try and compliment the carbon parts:):agree: I think this could be the best looking r5gtt in the club, with the right colour choice. ;)
Thanks. Im not sure if I like idea of having a lot of contrast with red or similar or trying to do your way better. I'll have plenty of time to think about this still before needing to paint the car. If I do roof Ill get it propably done next summer earliest. :rolleyes:
I also think dark colours/lower contrast. It wont be necessary to use paint bright colours for people to notice the rest of the car is CF. Bright colours will make people think "looks how he feels the need to show off the fact he's got CF on his car". IMO.
its called a bonnet, not a 'hood' ;) :cooter:
yeah I agree, a bold colour and then get the c/f gleaming, should look good, if a little different! :smokin:
Maybe I should do carbon vinyl wrap for all the parts which are still metal. That way normal people would think that the car is just completely vinyl wrapped with carbon pattern
That's a whole other dimension to the thing called 'sleeper':cooter:
TrixNFlix
12-06-2012, 20:18
Maybe I should do carbon vinyl wrap for all the parts which are still metal. That way normal people would think that the car is just completely vinyl wrapped with carbon pattern
This is what I think I am gonna do to the body kit, as am in the Process of buying a house and cannot afford to buy all your carbon goodies!!! :D
Think it might make your car look cheap and retract away from its carbon goodness.
yes, matching surface glosses between vinyl and real deal are quite impossible and it would propably look bad. The idea in general felt good at first though.
time for small update.
I painted RH door outer skin donator and my glass fiber Reichhard Motorsport tailgate outer skin. This means that I'm really stupid enough to do moulds from glass fiber tailgate just to get carbon fiber one instead.
I also finished modding LH outer skin mould. It now has 70mm extensions "painted" with ducttape. Nice thing about ducttape is that epoxy doesn't bond to the surface so it can be used for making quick mould surfaces. Now I can use the mould for vacuum infusion method (see http://wiki.techfam.com/index.php?title=Vacuum_Infusion). It's superior method compared to hand laminating and vacuum bagging. Let see what happends. If it works well I convert unfinished moulds with similar extensions as well.
Woznaldo
24-06-2012, 01:39
Lovely work as always Harri. :agree:
I saw a demo car over here with the 3M Carbon Vinyl and it looked pretty good. It was a matt finish and you could feel the textured effect of the faux weave. The car was a Holden Commodore VE and was lowered on some 20" rims.
Yes, we have the same 3M vinyl here as well. It kind of looks good but finish is totally different from mine which means sleeper idea won't work with that type. Funny thing is that in normal laminate you shouldnt feel the texture on the a-surface. If you do, you have something seriously gone wrong. stupid 3M :dearme:
Thats why you have to spray clear varnish over the 3M. However everyone just leaves it plain..
hmm.. so I could basicly spray same clear coat on CF-vinyl and CF areas? This means that my sleeper idea of having metal parts covered in CF-vinyl to mislead non-dedicated people might actually work. I have one spare CF-vinyl skin for my old tablet which I need to coat for testing.
Today I infused LH door. This is first this size part that I've infused at home garage so we will see what happends. There are pictures from layup, dry-vacuum and after infusion. I'm feeling quite positive regarding the results.. and already thinking about doing rest of the parts the same way.
Well i can't insure it will look the same but it looks more real than without laquer
good, I will give it a try later on. It's definetly worth a try.
RH door outer mould done, I've had rather fruitful last couple of days. :)
would you be willing to do a group buy on these doors as i would deffo have a set :crush::crush:
Sure. I just need to do first set first. However Im bit skeptical how many people are willing to pay for carbon fiber materials. I can always do everything in glass fiber as well for rust free results and lighter weight.
either way would be up for a set, great weight saving and no more rusty dented r5 doors:cool::D
Door LH outer skin done. I'll definetly continue with infusion rather than hand-laminating from now on. It has almost no pin-holes and the surface quality is almost as good as my hood. The reflection is nice but it shows two (sort of) problems:
Some of the dents from original part are now visible (2nd picture). You couldn't see them on mould surface or original part (at least I didn't notice them). I can sand them a bit before spraying clear coat to the door someday. After that they shouldn't be visible anymore.
Also it is impossible to lay-up carbon cloth this big without misaligment if I do it alone. I sort of like not having perfectly aligned weave pattern since it looks more like proper stuff and not vinyl then.
I didn't scale the part yet but infusion should give me 10% better fiber volume. It basicly means that same amount of fibers have less epoxy resin meaning lower weight and improved strength.
The mould stayed in perfect condition to be re-used ;)
TNT ANDY
29-06-2012, 19:51
either way would be up for a set, great weight saving and no more rusty dented r5 doors:cool::D
I think you may need to make your care heavier Andy:cooter:
Tony Walker
29-06-2012, 19:57
Incredible :agree:
Is Andy Cooke still a member? I thought he would have been interested in this thread.
Is his car on a diet as well? Today I had to push my r5, it has never felt easier. Diet is starting to show results.:)
Put it this way Harri, you'll do well to make your car as light as his. However, you're doing different things to him in terms of how you're going about saving weight. Which means you would have something to gain from each other :)
That's interesting since I'm starting to run out of ideas where to lose weight next. I'll hope that he is still here and reads this.
In my opinion I have potential in at least:
-exhaust system
-fuel system
-wheels
-body
I guess I will need to start drilling the body sooner or later :)
Phoenix Autosport
03-07-2012, 23:28
carbon floorpan and boot floor ???
gotta be some weight saving there :)
I've been thinking about floors actually, especially trunk floor. I would use alu-honeycomb to reinforce them since they are quite flat areas. I'm bit concerned on long term durability issues of joints though. Having carbon fibers next to metal body can cause galvanic corrosion quite rapidly which is the reason Im bit cautios of using them. I can always use glass fiber on surfaces which have contact but still it's bit risky.
Corrosion is one easy way of losing weight too ;)
Phoenix Autosport
09-07-2012, 12:01
to be honest i probably wouldnt touch the floor of the passenger shell just do the boot and wouldnt use carbon on the floor as its a bit of overkill just a couple of layers of glass, to strengthen rather than using a core, when making the mold i would fit on strips of bump strip tape so that the final item has reasonably deep ridges running front to back giving you the strength from the shape rather than adding materials.
cant wait to see the doors on, they look realy good :agree:
I has been a while since last update. I've been modifying remaining door moulds for infusion but progress has been rather slow. Two days ago I finally made tailgate outer skin mould. It came out really nicely. I used my reichhard motorsport glass fiber tailgate as donator. Good thing is that it already had the spoiler as part of the panel. I really like this approach of combining parts in seamless way.
Plan is to try to make tailgate inner mould and RH door inner mould next, then make every remaining part with infusion and fit all the CF parts by next summer. Next spring I want to start doing the CF roof and I aim to get these done first. Lets see.
great progress! tailgate mould looks pretty clean too!
to be honest i probably wouldnt touch the floor of the passenger shell just do the boot and wouldnt use carbon on the floor as its a bit of overkill just a couple of layers of glass, to strengthen rather than using a core, when making the mold i would fit on strips of bump strip tape so that the final item has reasonably deep ridges running front to back giving you the strength from the shape rather than adding materials.
cant wait to see the doors on, they look realy good :agree:
Thanks for the ideas, I remember cutting boot floor for a spare sheet from my cliomk1 donator. It was surprisingly heavy so there's definetly potential.
I would actually like to do rear engine conversion but the problem is that they're impossible to get through mot in finland.
Time for a small update, I painted tailgate inner skin today. Painting went nicely when taking into account that i did it in a car tent :), only thing is that the big surface has small dent because of the excess polyurethane foam i needed to cast inside. Foam is there to support vacuum pressure. Soon I can make my Reichhard motorsport tailgate replicas.
Very nice! Can't you fill the hole?
I actually cut the hole when I added all the mechanics inside on trial fitting of this tailgate. Getting the wiring inside the tailgate proved to be problematic without. So the carbon one will have similar hole maybe finished a bit better.
Very curious at the result!
I am too :). Just trying to get moulds done first before making any more parts. Yesterday I needed to empty most of the tent before painting when I realised just how many moulds and parts I've made so far for R5. All of my stroges are full of them.
Woznaldo
20-09-2012, 10:24
I haven't been on here for a little while but, I can't believe how much more you done Harri! My job position has moved sideways and I'm now in charge of the Airframe Structures section. I have a cunning plan to do some training fir the new trainees which may involve moulding some GTT parts.....:devil:
Yes, I like the plan. Maybe they could do moulds for the dashboard? That would give good practice. :D
Tailgate inner mould done. It seems that each mould I make always have one spot which needs repairing before use. Luckily this time its on easily sandable spot.
hmm, time for small update. I've been doing a lot of mould prep work lately. Building extensions on the moulds, fixing air spots and such as you can see from the mess in my garage. R5 is outside in a tent until I get worst fiber-dust-work done.
RH door outer skin has almost all release coats in it (3+4+3 in total) and Im planning on infusing that during the weekend. I've made some improvements on the process which should give me even better results on the surface quality than I did with LH outer skin. LH inner skin or tailgate outer skin parts will shortly follow since they are almost ready. Im also doing good progress on the RH inner skin donator prepping. Hopefully RH outer skin goes well since I need all the motivation I can get to finish RH inner door prepping.
This is an awesome project and fantastic fabrication / moulding work going on. Very unique. keep up the good work:agree:
Mr Murphy finally spanked me hard again. I tried to do RH outer skin yesterday. There was something wrong with the epoxy which left really small air bubbles trapped to the resin. :mad:
I decided to cut my losses and retry once the epoxy is cured and can be removed. This trial now "only" cost around 40€ if the mould stays intact. :mad: I could have done part which could be painted but that's not fitting to the other parts I've made. However once epoxy is on the mould I needed to put something on top of that to be able to release it from the mould easily and try again. I have this spare glass fiber which was originally made to one Finnish hockey-stick firm. It actually looks kind of nice. The black stripes are not carbon fiber, but polyester fibers.
In the end I noticed that heating epoxy enough makes it clear again, I tried that yesterday but just wasn't patient enough. :mad: "Stupid is what stupid does" as the saying goes. :sad:
In the end everything went quite well taking into account that resin didn't work properly. I managed to get the resin out from the mould without any damage with the hockeystick-glass fiber i used. The pattern on part looks sort of cool. Also the resin seller promised to send me a new patch for postage cost price since it was not supposed to be expired yet. I already prepped the mould again and will try do part as soon as I have time.
This look great! I seriously wonder what the finished weight of the car will be :D
Mr Murphy finally spanked me hard again. I tried to do RH outer skin yesterday. There was something wrong with the epoxy which left really small air bubbles trapped to the resin. :mad:
Today I started second try with fresh resin, at least beginning went as it should. Getting these doors done should help me reaching my under 700kg weight goal. Im thinking of borrowing wheel scales from work and doing self motivational car scaling soon.
Tony Walker
24-11-2012, 21:38
Deffinetly.... would be very interesting to see how much weight has been lost. In the event of the loss not being as expected i wouldnt be disheartened it looks absolutely fantastic :agree:
I've scaled every carbon part I've made, check page1. Weight loss is something between 50-70% from the original.
RH Door outer skin infused. Just need to keep fingers crossed for the next 2 days before I can see the result. Tailgate inner skin probably next since it's easiest out of three moulds I have ready.
Door outer carbon fiber skin was quite succesful. I've been using a new trick on both of the door skins to get rid of those small pinholes I used to have even on the best parts. It has been working really well as can be seen on the pictures. 1700g without trimming so I guess it will loose roughly 5% when cutting extra off. There are few minor air bubbles as always which I need to fix unfortunately. It's not big job, just some resin, sanding and repolish before clear coating.
Very nice! Can't you fill the hole?
In the end I decided to fill the holes on the tailgate inner skin. It now has most of the release coatings so if Im lucky this will be done next weekend.
TrixNFlix
27-11-2012, 19:16
Breathtakingly good work Harri. We all wish you lived in England. :):agree:
Tony Walker
27-11-2012, 19:17
How about an RTOC trip to Finland?
Yes, you're welcome to come. Maybe you can take some carbon parts with you as hand luggage :D
Im actually quite close in getting all the remaining parts done. then i can actually focus on fitting them. roof mould making can be done in spring earliest since i dont have space to do that during winter.
this is getting more awesome every day!
why is finland so far from here!?
A guy from Sweden with Clio Williams carbon body panels:
https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.244596259001894.56001.113412548786933&type=1
Is it windy in Finland Harri? You don't want to come out one morning and find the GTT has been blown into the Baltic or the Barents! :wasntme:
wow, it seems that im not the only one upnorth who wants to get rid of all that extra rust Renault put in there in the early 90s. :D
Is it windy in Finland Harri? You don't want to come out one morning and find the GTT has been blown into the Baltic or the Barents! :wasntme:
actually it's quite windy now, so I might have to tie my R5 to ground somehow :D
tailgate inner skin done, it's still under vacuum. Didn't go without problems, I had to do emergency suction to get resin everywhere and bag also leaked from underside.
It has 3 layers of carbon fibers, so this time I didn't use any glass fibers between carbon. Hinge and lock areas have bit more. If it goes well it should be really light. It needs to be since original Reichhard MS tailgate weights something like 3,5kg and this should be lighter.
LH door inner skin next on pipeline if everything goes well.
Tailgate inner panel done. Surface isn't perfect though, which was expected since I had so many leaks and other problems while infusing it. Those dry spots on pic3 can be filled and polished as before, especially since this part is not really visible. Good thing about this is the weight which is 934g. I can take some weight off when trimming it so should get it way under 900g. Outer panel weight will be appromaxily same since the area is the same and I'm planning on using same amount of carbon fibers in it. I remember scaling the original tailgate and it weights something like 7,8kgs+spoiler (which was surprisingly heavy too) where Reichhard MS weights 3,5kg. This one will be under 2kg. I'll bet Reichhard MS guys didn't see this coming when they sold the tailgate to me few years ago. :cooter:
Thursday is national holiday here so maybe I have time to make next part then. :)
Penfold aka The Dealer
03-12-2012, 16:52
Looking very good Harri, 2kg for a boot is impressive.
I wonder if in years to come people will be using 3D printers to make light weight body panels, or the moulds to make carbon parts... would make it very quick to make them.
Yes, it came even a bit lighter than I expected.
No 3d printing for proper panels (yet), I've used and rented couple printers several times but rapid printing is anything but fast. Of course it beats machining and making mould in time but not in quality. I've printed some smaller moulds, applied release coats and then just used them as moulds even without painting if surface quality isn't an issue. By applying filler and paint to printed mould you could get mirror polished surface but then it already involves more labour.
Penfold aka The Dealer
03-12-2012, 17:23
Yes, it came even a bit lighter than I expected.
No 3d printing for proper panels (yet), I've used and rented couple printers several times but rapid printing is anything but fast. Of course it beats machining and making mould in time but not in quality. I've printed some smaller moulds, applied release coats and then just used them as moulds even without painting if surface quality isn't an issue. By applying filler and paint to printed mould you could get mirror polished surface but then it already involves more labour.
Its a newish technology still thats only just starting to progress... give it a few more years and I am sure it will become more pratical.
just got this pervert idea. I know that there have been several rear engine conversions made, but has anyone done 4x4 conversion to R5? I have this one hill after S-corner next to my home which is impossible to drive with FWD at least one day per year during wintertime (when i don't drive my R5). :D
So 4x4 would be useful in R5. Im thinking of something small which can be turbocharged and has all nice forged parts available to get serious boost. Maybe VW country 1.8 powertrain? Im not sure about parts but at least FWD mark2 golfs have loas of tuning parts still available.
Road legal, propably not. Fun, definetly.
There was a Cossie 5
nice. I would love to see pics, especially how much was cut to allow room for shaft and what type of rear suspension was done.
I did quick googling and only found rear enginer RS2000 R5 and twin engine R5 which is basically 4wd
Subaru Justy 1.2l would be light choice. :sad2:
I found one for 300€. I know people like to turbocharge them with gtt carbs but Im not sure how much boost they can take and what kind of power can be had. I guess there isn't too much aftermarket engine tuning parts available though.
hmm, it seems that justy transmission can barely hold 150bhp on daily driver which wouldnt be enough.
national holiday well used with tailgate outer panel. This time everything went way better. Only question is, did I manage to push the vacuum bag all the way to bottom of the spoiler since it's really tight place. Saturday I'll find out just how well it went. This is again full carbon fiber to make maximize weigth gain from glass fiber tailgate.
LH inner panel done. Let's see, there might be some air trapped between fibers and mould since the forms where quite difficult. It has 2 carbon fiber layers and 2 glass fiber. It was the last mould I have so I need to start fitting some parts soon. Only one part missing from my original list which is RH inner panel. It's already under prepping.
Tony Walker
08-12-2012, 19:24
You best get some really good photos of it all together :agree:
Yes, I think I can get the car to studio for photoshoot once it's done.
In the meanwhile here are pictures from tailgate outer panel. It's definetly one of the best parts I've made. Weight-wise, my guess that it's close to inner panel was quite correct, it weights 940g and again trimming edges should get me under 900g. :D These are getting better each time and I find myself already thinking of remaking some early parts. Luckily I don't have budget for that.
Tailgate looks great! Maybe if you'd sell the early parts you could make yourself new ones...
Tailgate looks great! Maybe if you'd sell the early parts you could make yourself new ones...
yes, Im actually thinking about that.
yes, Im actually thinking about that.
i would be happy to take the old arches etc !! :)
Coming along nicely fella, job well done so far, dread to think of the cost tho:crap: but I hope it works out for u :D
Let's just put it like this; it would have been a lot cheaper to increase power/weight ratio by increasing just power.
Loving this i want carbon bits! :D
I just made an offer to RTOC member regarding front wings, side skirts and rear arch extensions. I can always make more if there's demand ;) and willingness to pay premium for premium materials i need to use.
First post!
http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t15/mrph_block/dsc04390.jpg
:)
that's carbon bolt right? I know bikers use them when trying to minimize weight.
New poster! (less than 10 posts)
Yes, weight 3, 2g and steal bolt weight 26g. One guy here is testing those.
nice, where did you get them from?
r5_scotty
10-12-2012, 16:54
:agree:
Yes, I think I can get the car to studio for photoshoot once it's done.
In the meanwhile here are pictures from tailgate outer panel. It's definetly one of the best parts I've made. Weight-wise, my guess that it's close to inner panel was quite correct, it weights 940g and again trimming edges should get me under 900g. :D These are getting better each time and I find myself already thinking of remaking some early parts. Luckily I don't have budget for that.
tailgate looks awsum:agree: top work! any idea on a price on these??? :D
Harri this project is awesome and love your work, have sent you a pm with regards to a custom part I am after you might be able to help:agree:
LH door inner panel done! it came out really well. As always, few imperfections remain. I got so excited that I started fitting the door already. Hinges went well, so did the mirror. Next I need to trim the outer edges of both skins to fit them perfectly to each other. After that just drilling and fitting of the components. For the windows I need to make additional U-profile inside the door, let's see how it goes.
sidenote: i need to do something with the mirror, like redo it.
damn! those carbon doors absolutely look the nuts!
i can't say how much credits go to you for doing all this!
Tony Walker
10-12-2012, 20:34
damn! those carbon doors absolutely look the nuts!
i can't say how much credits go to you for doing all this!
:agree: truely amazing.
thanks all :ashamed:. It's nice to finally see the car again and not just the moulds. There is lot of fitting and trimming to be done however.
After working with certain rear arch extension moulds, I had some spare time today so I decided to continue fitting the parts for the door.
I definetly need to paint all the matt black plastics parts since they look so worn and pale now. Now that lock and hinges are done, besides final adjusting and finishing, I need to fit the window mechanism next which will be quite interesting.
Top work fella, looking great :agree:
what are you doing about door cards?
I have carbon door cards (sheet). But Im thinking of making similar lower part out of carbon which holds stuff at the original door cards. Not my priority right now since outer panels are not done and body needs painting first.
Tony Walker
19-12-2012, 20:40
Have you decided on the body colour?
Im seriously considering the carbon sleeper look we spoke here earlier. Vinyl wrap the metal shell and clear coat everything to same gloss. I need to test that to see if it looks nice or just stupid. If it doesnt work then I may stick with the red.
still really awesome progress! everything looks to fit like stock!
markey b
20-12-2012, 01:04
Im seriously considering the carbon sleeper look we spoke here earlier. Vinyl wrap the metal shell and clear coat everything to same gloss. I need to test that to see if it looks nice or just stupid. If it doesnt work then I may stick with the red.
What about a real carbon wrap on the shell, carbon vinyl never looks as good but you could easily wrap the shell in real carbon fabric, then brush on some resin, sand and lacquer :-)
I've thought about that too. I know it could be done but I'm bit worried how the carbon will stick under long term to steel. Surface area is huge and they have different thermal expansion rates. Also carbon does galvanic corrosion to steel so it has to be 100% electrically insulated from steel. Do you know if someone has laminated carbon on top of a car body with success?
Hi i have laminated my roof with carbon its been done for about 3years now with out any problems bought the proper kit with the black resin base coat and then lay the carbon on cover with resin sand and recoat until its smooth then laquered it.i could put a pic on but i cant put them on on my ipad does any know how pm. Me please
Same problem when trying to upload pictures with Android.
I'm planning on replacing roof with real carbon panel but seeing how it worked out would definitely motivate me to do the side areas.
PM sent requesting pictures ;)
I had my ole tungy 5 roof carbon fibre wrapped with the 3m decent stuff it had the weave in it and looked good but no where near as good as the proper carbon stuff, although with laquer it may have looked ok.
Harri have to say am loving your work:agree:
Thanks mk5gtt and James5 for the pictures. I'm convinced that I need to investigate about laminating carbon on top of the side shell
markey b
20-12-2012, 17:41
Thanks mk5gtt and James5 for the pictures. I'm convinced that I need to investigate about laminating carbon on top of the side shell
i did my mirror bases by spraying black, then a thin coat of resin, then layed twill on top, then a few more coats, sand back and laquer. obviously a DA would probably be handy on a whole car, or one coat of resin to stick the fabric to the car, then i'd probably use lacquer to bury the weave instead of resin, just get it on so its buried, DA back then go finer and finer
Do you have pictures of the mirrors you made? Also, since my motherlanguage is not english, what's DA? :confused:
Do you have pictures of the mirrors you made? Also, since my motherlanguage is not english, what's DA? :confused:
http://www.rtoc.org/boards/album.php?albumid=1629&pictureid=6390
http://www.rtoc.org/boards/album.php?albumid=1629&pictureid=6389
and a da is a dual action polisher
window rail fitted, edges are also almost done. Fitting stuff from "outside of the car" is much easier now that outer panel is not yet bonded to the door. It fits much better but I still need to work on adjusting the door panels perfectly together.
trimmed tailgate edges today and trial fitted the lockpanel. I think I know now what to do with the badges, I'll paint the edges of them in red to create contrast and then clearcoat everything.
r5_scotty
23-12-2012, 17:08
i want one!!!!:D
I think it was James5 at page2 who originally convinced me to do carbon tailgate even though I had glass fiber one already. I'm quite happy that I did.
Hi just sent you a email with the pictures of my carbon badges with painted edges
jesus in the seat of a 5
23-12-2012, 19:02
i want , i want , i want , i want , i want.........:agree:....:smokin:
Nice, did I make those badges originally? They do look really good painted. I was thinking of painting just the edges of the letters though. Are you ok if I upload those pictures in this topic?
I think they were from you got them off ebay yes you can upload any pictures ive sent
yep, they were mine then.
Mountings for LH rear arch extension finally done and bolted. Only took about year to do them :)
The masking tape I used to originally trial fit them has completely melted to the body.
When we see the completed back end it's going to be amazing.
Tailgate inc spoiler, over light trims, under light trims, badges and rear bumper! :eek:
I bought stainless steel bolt assortment today to fit all the panels with stainless bolts if anyhow possible. Where Renault uses special bolts I just need to reuse them but all the rest are going to change little by little.
Out of curiosity I googled first aluminium and the carbon fiber bolts. Alloy bolts are around £1 each but these are the really expensive stuff:
http://www.schmolke-carbon.de/carbon/carbon_uk/schraub.php
Im not that crazy, but I wonder how much weight could be saved with these? I wonder how much weigth is in the R5s bolts if those which need to have certain strength are not taken into account. By that I mean suspension and engine internals etc.
i think you should harri! :D:D:D:D
Im not that crazy
Yeah, ok :laugh: ;)
If I decide to target under 600 kilos I may have to rethink this. Under 700 target is fine for now. Last time I drove the car the brakes felt powerful enough even without the brake booster since it's becoming so light. Fronts are clio16v brakes which help a bit as well. I wonder how much the booster weights..:scratch:
You mean the servo? I'd say that was a few kg saving to be had getting rid of that and associated gubbins. Would it be safe, legal and able to pass an MOT though??
It should pass MOT if the pedal force needed is not too high. But you are right that gains are minimal, however Im running out of cheap options to reduce the weight.
andybond
04-01-2013, 17:41
Harri. Can you just stop being awesome for a bit please ? I am feeling slightly inadequate now ..
:ashamed: thanks.
I can make you similar carbon fiber body panels if you want. Spec can be anything from full carbon to carbon-glass or even kevlar or kevlar-carbon hybrid. My panels actually fit quite similar way as OE, at least the ones I have fitted completely. sorry for the off-topic pitch..
But you are right that gains are minimal, however Im running out of cheap options to reduce the weight.
Oh, no I meant 'a few kg' it in a positive way. When you're trying to eek out weight savings on a car that's already very light, a few kg is big potatoes! :)
If it's legal and you can get safe performance (which I wouldn't know anything about), then it's worth considering.
I can do brake dyno at my work so I could see the difference with or without on comfortable pedal force levels. I've dealt with racecars without brake booster, it all depends on brake caliper/disc size/master caliper piston size and brake pedal ratio. And of course weight. With R5 I don't care about comfortness so it comes to more if it feels good to drive or not. I think I will just test this and decide then.
TNT Tricky Nicky
05-01-2013, 23:46
It should pass MOT if the pedal force needed is not too high. But you are right that gains are minimal, however Im running out of cheap options to reduce the weight.
http://i946.photobucket.com/albums/ad310/Tricky-nicky_photos/image_zps7c8d9227.jpg
If every kg counts you could go nuts, although not sure how safe it would be without a cage but swagging the hole gives it strength so may end up lighter and stronger? Plus it looks cool
Maybe a after market pedal box with its own reservoirs would save a bit of weight, less fluids and some amount of adjustability? Not sure how they work just looks cool
andybond
06-01-2013, 00:19
:ashamed: thanks.
I can make you similar carbon fiber body panels if you want. Spec can be anything from full carbon to carbon-glass or even kevlar or kevlar-carbon hybrid. My panels actually fit quite similar way as OE, at least the ones I have fitted completely. sorry for the off-topic pitch..
Only if I can pay in Revels as I am brassic at the minute
http://www.poundland.co.uk/images/849/original/revels.jpg
http://i946.photobucket.com/albums/ad310/Tricky-nicky_photos/image_zps7c8d9227.jpg
If every kg counts you could go nuts, although not sure how safe it would be without a cage but swagging the hole gives it strength so may end up lighter and stronger? Plus it looks cool
Maybe a after market pedal box with its own reservoirs would save a bit of weight, less fluids and some amount of adjustability? Not sure how they work just looks cool
How do you swag those holes? This "cupmod" is something I've been thinking of doing. And due to upcoming roof conversion I will install roll cage. The car still needs to be track capable.
http://www.poundland.co.uk/images/849/original/revels.jpg[/QUOTE]
M&Ms are more of my taste ;)
ren_5hitbox
06-01-2013, 08:02
WOW...... what can i say about this post? besides outstanding.... i dont post much on here, i just sit up all night like i have been tonight and read stuff, usually get a bit bored and start reading a new post. But ive read this from start to finish because its amazing...
if my opinion counts, i do vehicle wrapping for a living. And if you wrap the rest of the car in 3M di-noc it just wont look right because the rest of the car is real C/F. But like you say, can you rely on real carbon over metal work? I have no idea, but this post is really something. I feel massively inadequate right now. :cry:
TrixNFlix
06-01-2013, 09:14
Cut a hole with one of these
11PC HOLE SAW CUTTING SET KIT 19-64MM WOOD METAL ALLOYS
http://bit.ly/Wy0BUA
Then use one of these
19mm HOLE FLARING TOOL RACE AVIATION FABRICATION SWAGE
http://bit.ly/UVVRMl
Job done:)
Thanks, hole drilling was already familiar :D but the flaring tool is something I want to try. I think I will buy one size and then mill similar myself :)
I would appreciate if people who have done this would post any R5 pictures showing these holes. Like pattern&sizes and in which areas. I remember seeing at least red R5 pictures once.
Small update, I had some spare time yesterday so did some rear bumper side mount brackets. Stainless plate&A4 grade bolts naturally. They are not pretty but should do the job. Rear bumper sits nicely, lower mountings are the OE ones and now I just need to bond these.
if my opinion counts, i do vehicle wrapping for a living. And if you wrap the rest of the car in 3M di-noc it just wont look right because the rest of the car is real C/F. But like you say, can you rely on real carbon over metal work? I have no idea, but this post is really something. I feel massively inadequate right now. :cry:
Yes, I think people here have convinced me not to try 3M vinyl. Im convinced on trying carbon fiber skinning on the outer body panels. I have already pretty good idea how much sanding work needs to be done but I think the results should be far better as said. Only thing Im propably going to make against the general instructions how to do this is that I will let it cure under vacuum bag. It should reduce the sanding work by pushing the fibers better against the shell. Before Im there I just need to fit all the panels, weld a rollcage, make and fit roof and then strip the body and paint it first. If Im lucky most of this is done somewhere around next christmas..or maybe 2015
TrixNFlix
06-01-2013, 17:25
I remember seeing the red r5 with it done was it an old euro parts shell? :scratch:
Remember seeing the front wheel arches looking like Swiss cheese! :D
Yes, Swiss cheese on french baquette is how i would define the image in my head
Some small updates, most of my "free"time has gone lately on certain rear arch set but every once in a while I've had time to do some small stuff..
Rear bumper is fixed, I sanded it to 800 coarse, it fits really well to LH arch. I need to mount the tailgate to do final adjustments however. Same goes with the side skirt which now has mountings but requires door to be there to make sure it fits as OEM as possibly.
Im taking weight off where I can which is why I made alloy plates which have stainless nut rivets to replace the thick steel plates I got with the hinges..The plates weighted over 10% of the new door which is why I decided to do this. Door fitting has delayed a bit since I realised I need to make two small moulds to handle all the window rail stuff. Interesting to see how the window will work in the end since alignment of the composite rails will be fairly difficult
Tony Walker
29-01-2013, 20:04
:agree: will be interesting to see what wheels your planning? Magnesium or something?
they can be made with carbon fiber as well these days. :laugh: won't be cheap to buy though. I've been trying to find light 14 inch ones but I might just go with the old school ronal turbos which come in 15 inch.
Tony Walker
29-01-2013, 20:14
:D ronals are great looking wheels but i think they weigh a fair bit dont they?
I was afraid of that. Do you have any idea how much exactly?
Tony Walker
29-01-2013, 20:37
Sorry i dont... glen hi 5 might.. he had two sets?
Scoff had a list of wheel weights here http://www.rtoc.org/files/Technical%...el_weights.xls (http://www.rtoc.org/files/Technical%...el_weights.xls)
Should imagine with some googley searching you could find some other lists out there.
Tony Walker
29-01-2013, 20:39
ahh there on the list.... 18kg
auch, thats double the weight i would like. i need to find something else then.
Tony Walker
29-01-2013, 20:57
I think the 17 inch of my wheels are about 9kg... mine are 15inch.... all i know is there the lightest wheel ive ever picked up. unfortunately not the prettiest but ah well (kei racing force 10s)
I like them. I remember that Oz had ultraleggeras which were really light. smallest seems to be 15 inch which weights according to google 5.3kg each. that's hard to beat without magnesium wheels.
Tony Walker
29-01-2013, 21:18
sounds perfect to me... i think Lomo has them on his 5 and i do remember them being very light too.
TNT Tricky Nicky
29-01-2013, 23:07
Ultraleggeras also have carbon fibre centre caps but I'm not sure if you're Fan of that material :laugh:. Definitely a good choice of wheel for the 5 :agree:
good to know. However my preferred material is good old rusty steel sheet. Im converting mine to save more rust to all the other R5s out there. :cooter:
http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj263/durant24/cinematographygifs11_thumb_zpsaf6a40d5.gif
TNT Tricky Nicky
07-02-2013, 19:42
Yes, Swiss cheese on french baquette is how i would define the image in my head
http://i946.photobucket.com/albums/ad310/Tricky-nicky_photos/F3E636CC-D3C8-4789-8A56-9F286D3DBA9C-1004-000000B67A1BD7D6_zpsa62270b9.jpg
Winston had it but can't find anymore pictures of it at :(
Whoa, I bet that was a good crack to drive!
looks ace. Valver with throttle bodies is always nice too.
It ended up in petes at backyards hands in the end even the pillars were.drilled
r5_scotty
07-02-2013, 20:50
my perfect modified five:agree: stunning
It has that VW Mk1 Golf minimalist look about it.
I wonder how the cabin heating/blower is solved? Through the windows?
michael tierney
08-02-2013, 21:16
Rear wheel arch liners would sell well
Liners? If that is the same as extensions then I just posted one set today. :D
michael tierney
08-02-2013, 23:06
liners protect the inside of the wheel arch from stone chips,abbrasion dampness and eventually rust!!
ah, that makes more sense. I could make them if enough interest either by thermoformed plastic or with laminate. I would prefer thin laminate with flexible pu-coating.
http://www.cliosport.net/forum/showthread.php?386377-Holey-Renault-5-16V...-Williams-F7R-amp-Alpha-ITBs
thanks, I just read all 17 pages.
Time to update: Bonded the tailgate panels, should be ready for final fitting tomorrow.
I also made window rail parts out of CF which I will bond next. They are not pretty since I cut too many corners when making the moulds but should do the job. After them I can bond the door panels together finally.
Excellent work Harri. You must of spent so much time and money on this. I work with fiberglass and I'm planning on doing similar work but with fiberglass to keep costs down.
this is getting better and better! if that's even possible? :agree:
Is it time for an update of the full list? :)
yep, there isnt too much to update but decided to do that still. I still hope to start with the roof as soon as the snow has melted completely.
For any newb's looking on, the full list of parts is at the bottom of the very first post of this thread. :coffee:
dansr5gtturbo
15-04-2013, 17:33
Are you making any carbon parts to sell? They look very nice
Are you making any carbon parts to sell? They look very nice
The answer to that is in the thread. Go on, it's a decent read anyway ;)
I am. Pm me what you want and I'll make you an offer.
The answer to that is in the thread. Go on, it's a decent read anyway ;)
True. :cool:
Not anymore, I cleaned that a bit.
Hi Harri, absolutely amazing work you've done, would love to have a large wedge of money to buy all the parts you can make as I don't have your skills, but alas the pot is empty, anyway, with regards to your windows, have you thought about using Lexan instead, a bit like this?
http://www.lexan-windows.com/renault-5-ph2-lexan-full-window-kit.html
Thanks. Rear side and rear windows are lexan from plastics4performance. I want to keep the original front windows for comfort ant mot.
Thanks. Rear side and rear windows are lexan from plastics4performance. I want to keep the original front windows for comfort ant mot.
Shouldn't have doubted you.;)
Tailgate is now finally done.
Window rails should be ready now. Testing is still needed before I dare to bond the outer skin of the door.
TNT Tricky Nicky
06-05-2013, 09:26
http://www.rtoc.org/boards/attachment.php?attachmentid=16199&d=1367815273
This picture looks awesome, can see all the carbon parts coming together. Can't wait to see the outer skins on and see a few pics of the whole car with all the carbon parts :cool:
Didn't realize that until you said it, there are 4 moulded parts in that picture.. Im going to push her out soon since LH side is ready after the door and I need to fit remaining RH side stuff next. Maybe I could take some pictures then. Front bumper needs brackets and grill still needs adjustments. Lot of small tweaking all around the car needed.
Electric window works now after some adjustments so I bonded the door panels today.
Electric window works now after some adjustments so I bonded the door panels today.
:niceone:
Unbelievable thread. Can't wait to see it finished now! :D
New poster! (less than 10 posts)
brilliant can you make a bonnet for my Twingo :rolleyes:
New poster! (less than 10 posts)
brilliant can you make a bonnet for my Twingo :rolleyes:
sure :D
Scaled the door today, it's 3450g now. Not sure about original weight since my scale is only up to 5kg. I just painted RH inner skin donator part. It's the final one still missing in my original list. I may need to start that roof thing soon.
updates updates updates..
LH door is now complete. On the rear door fits really nicely to the body. Front arch is way off and I should get the front as good as the rear after some adjustments to the arch. I also need to install new window seals since they got a "bit" damaged.
I've been filling and sanding donator roof and hope to make the mould before autumn. It's pain in arse to sand since the metal is so thin. I also made RH door inner skin mould finally today.
This is just mad :worship:
Yes, it's getting a bit out of control. Originally i only meant to do the hood :D
Door mould came out better than the first one. Only one small place to fix which is this time the door opening limiter.
I noticed today that pile of ruined doors for making the moulds has become quite big. Four doors so far :D
Had spare time today and decided to finish adjusting the LH front arch and adjust the hood and mask all the same. Looks much better now. Im going to make the front bumper attachments next and then i need to start fitting RH stuff.
Roof ready for paint, getting all the windshield adhesive off was something i dont want to do ever again. Quite lot of rust under but since Im using this to make a mould i didnt worry too much about getting it all out.
RH roof window rail/guides are now ready as well.
Big Steve - Raider
18-07-2013, 12:28
WOW?! You're still doing some amazing stuff in this thread Harry!!
Can't wait to see the finished car, it will be fantastic!! :niceone:
My spare car is on my yard and I've been waiting for correct weather to paint the roof of it. Today the weather was just right, +21C, no wind and cloudy. So I painted the roof. Just need to sand and repolish it and I can make the mould which is hopefully last one I need for the exterior. I think only one pug found its way to the fresh paint :)
I made roof mould on Sunday. While making it I though "I must be crazy to do this". After removing it today I though "Im just crazy". :D
Well, in the end it came out really well.
that is a thing of beauty harri,
Thanks, at least I can get rid of those "soon to rust" areas under the windshield and around wiper holes. I have massive amount of stuff to do for the roof mould before i can make a part out of it. Now after a week I found myself thinking about body side moulds :devil:
I did some finishing touches to tailgate today, fitted glass and adjusted the lock to work properly. I also replaced self piercing screws in the front door card with proper stainless bolts and alu rivet nuts. Looks much better now
All I will say is that after working with carbon fibre/kevlar in the last weeks, I know full well the amount of skill and time this has taken to develop so hats off to you Harri :agree:
Utterly amazeballs...
Quite tempted to do this to mine now :smokin::laugh:
Had upper light trims clear coated to see how my early parts would look finished. Im quite satisfied with the result.
Makes a big difference Harri! Might even tempt Fordy :wasntme:
Yes, maybe even that :)
I found my original post about upper light trims in page two dated 17.6.2011. Didnt take too long ;)7
Looks fecking awesome with clear coat on!
Shame carbon has to be so damn expensive :crap:
then again it being expensive and therefore rare material makes it desirable
Im liking these upper light trims more and more after fitting them today. I can really now imagine how the car looks once everything is in CF and clear coated.
Woznaldo
26-08-2013, 10:04
You can see the contrast between the Tailgate and the Light Trim after the clear coat, obviously noting that there is a bit of dust too.
Your car is going to look epic!
Fookin epic does more justice!
this morning i found urge to put piece of PS foam, 2 buckets of water, 4 rocks and other stuff i found on top of the roof mould. more to follow..
RH door inner skin released, it came out really well even if the weave is bit disturbed in some areas. This can't really be avoided in this complex part. 1645g without trimming. Just need to do mirrors and roof now.
Holy sh*t! Just keeps getting better and better!
Keep going Harri. I just renewed my RTOC membership 2 days ago. You have til next Sept to get this thing finished and pics/vids uploaded. Chop chop :D
****.. i need to start working :cooter:
TNT ANDY
27-09-2013, 20:14
Super:cool:
I needed to take her out in order to have room to work with the roof mould. Can't do it outside anymore since the winter is coming. Decided to pump out as much old gas as I could, put some fresh in and see if she starts. Took a while but in the end she was running like it was yesterday when I drove her inside. Once I drive her back in in a month or so I can fit all the RH stuff I have ready. Even the bumpers don't have RH side mounts bonded due to lack of space.
Woznaldo
22-10-2013, 23:22
RH door inner skin released, it came out really well even if the weave is bit disturbed in some areas. This can't really be avoided in this complex part. 1645g without trimming. Just need to do mirrors and roof now.
Harri, have you got a final weight for the finished door and if so can you state what that weight includes? (glass, window mech, window motor/winder, central locking solenoid, etc.)
Woz
Harri, have you got a final weight for the finished door and if so can you state what that weight includes? (glass, window mech, window motor/winder, central locking solenoid, etc.)
Woz
LH side door was 3450g, RH should be a bit lighter since im learning where to put material and where not. That is just the raw door without any stuff in it. Basicly replaces all the steel in the door.
It's not until recently that I realised that these parts not rusting was one of the big benefits associated with them. :homer:
Woznaldo
23-10-2013, 10:21
Thanks Harri, my door is off at the moment and must weigh more than 10kg? I'll try to put it on some scales to get a bit more accurate figure.
I would say that mine is around 70% lighter, but I would really appreciate if you can scale it while it's without any components
Huge update ;) but little progress. Roof mould has now support structure and extensionns on the mould. Just need to finish part edges on the mould and save some serious $ now. Winter is disturbing the progress however since my garage is not big enough for both the car and roof mould. Car went in, mould out and I will continue working with it next spring. Luckily I have some mirror moulds to do and RH side stuff, namely door, to fit. Hopefully I can start stripping the body clean next spring to fit the roof and painting finally.
TNT ANDY
20-11-2013, 06:19
Up early Harri!
Eastern European time in Helsinki (2hrs ahead), so not quite as early as it looks ;)
Woznaldo
20-11-2013, 09:58
I would say that mine is around 70% lighter, but I would really appreciate if you can scale it while it's without any components
I forgot all about this Harri and have now put the door back on. :ashamed:
I never removed the window mech or locks or mirror so the bare door weight wouldn't have been accurate.
No worries, I just need to find scale big enough. I have plenty of rusty doors on my backyard :D
Powered by vBulletin® Version 4.2.5 Copyright © 2024 vBulletin Solutions Inc. All rights reserved.