Negative Camber

[Ricardo]

With the aid of CAD drawing or 1:1 scale is it possible to work out a fixed degree of negative camber by say enlarging the diameter of the hub and/or hole on the damper. For example the diameter of the hub hole is 20mm, enlarging it to say 20.5 or 21.3mm would give a fixed permanent negative camber of 1.5 degrees (figures picked at random)

Was thinking it would take the guess work away when using 'corrector' bolts, you'd know it would always be a certain degree of camber. Or am i talking nonsense :o :ashamed:

[Adey aka Ewok]

id just slot em bud, and set up the camber ureself on a flat surface, u might wana look at ure castor angle too if ure looking for better cornering

[Ricardo]

The idea of working out a specific diameter is to take the guesswork out of it squire :)

[Mart]

You'd still need it setting up properly as there'd be tolerances in the suspension holes, hub holes, the hub itself, wishbone/holes, etc, all of which can effect camber.

Your best bet, imho, is to elongate the strut-hub holes to give you the adjustability, then take it to somewhere like Elite (although I personally wouldn't go to them; just using their name as an example), and ask them to set the camber to whatever you desire.

Alternatively, get some straight rods & string, and do it yourself. Cue Andy Cooke...

[Hoolio]

New poster! (less than 10 posts)

Am i being really dumb, i thought to get negative camber you'd have to make the hole smaller!

[Bigfoot]

New poster! (less than 10 posts)

Am i being really dumb, i thought to get negative camber you'd have to make the hole smaller!

How do the bolts fit through the holes then :confused:

[Andrew Cooke]

easiest way is to remove the top bolt, then smack things with a hammer until you get the camber you want. When all this is done attack the top bolt hole with a vernier.

This is a static test, not a dynamic one. Don't give it a run down to the shops to see how it feels with only one bolt fitted.....

[Hoolio]

New poster! (less than 10 posts)


How do the bolts fit through the holes then :confused:

:) Um yes, what i was trying to say that rather than drilling using top bolts of different diameters would give you standardised camber. IE on the trophy a 12mm bolt gives exactly 2 degs negative.

[Mart]

Wouldn't that involve drilling the hub mounting holes though? Last time I checked a gtt hub, there wasn't that much extra meat available, and it's a one shot bore-through as well - If you feck up, it's replacement hub time.

Far easier to elongate the strut holes and go from there.

[warpspeed]

If you elongate the top hole you can then tip the hub in towards the centreline of the car, if you look in demon-tweeks you can buy an alloy camber gauge that sits on the outside face of the wheel and as long as you make sure the ground you're working on is level it's easy, just remember any time you make an adjustment you need to roll the car back and forwards a foot or so to allow the suspension to settle. Once you done all that you can test your car to see how it feels and if you happy remove the top bolt and tack a penny washer to the strut to spread the bolt loads. job done :)

[Limecat]

New poster! (less than 10 posts)


With the aid of CAD drawing or 1:1 scale is it possible to work out a fixed degree of negative camber by say enlarging the diameter of the hub and/or hole on the damper. For example the diameter of the hub hole is 20mm, enlarging it to say 20.5 or 21.3mm would give a fixed permanent negative camber of 1.5 degrees (figures picked at random)

Was thinking it would take the guess work away when using 'corrector' bolts, you'd know it would always be a certain degree of camber. Or am i talking nonsense :o :ashamed:

No. It could sit at any point within that 'circle' so would give different camber accordingly.

I am a big fan of camber bolts, use them on all my cars. The only time it is an issue is when you disturb them but I scribe the head to the hub face so I can return it to the same position! :agree:

[rs250nut]

New poster! (less than 10 posts)

What about adjustable top mounts like the ones from compbrake?

[Rob@Backyardracing]

New poster! (less than 10 posts)

What about adjustable top mounts like the ones from compbrake?

Yes you could do this two, but the tops are different in the ph1 and ph2 in the way they mount...

[Alastair]

id just slot em bud, and set up the camber ureself on a flat surface, u might wana look at ure castor angle too if ure looking for better cornering

How have peeps adjusted their castor? Moved the wishbones forward\backward on the original bushes? Or adjusted the strut tops? How have peeps measured how much extra they have dialled in?