solex 32 dis setting??

[jonnyshaw49]

hi i have just got my hands on the amazing haynes carburettor manual, its a god send to any r5 gt owner lol. ive been having running problems and hopefully this will be the end. looking in the manual it refers to setting the accelerator pump arm it states

invert the carburettor and insert the shank of a twist drill between the wall of the throttle bore and the throttle plate.the twist drill diameter for carburettors with part numbers 804 and 912 is 5.0mm the twist drill diameter for all other models is 7.0mm and should be measured from the PROGRESSION SLOT.

it states in the spec the part number for the renault 5 gt is 931 so does this mean set the accelerator arm at 7.0mm instead of 5mm like described in the technical thread????

also with it saying set it from the "progression side" could i have set it at 5mm at the wrong side and this would cause my car to run lumpy???

very confusing lol

[djinuk]

i also have that haynes manual :).

sorry its not a answer to your question, really good read though.

[jonnyshaw49]

yes its mint heres a few more specs for anyone wanting to set there carb up

idle speed 700 rpm + or - 50
co@ idle % vol 1.5 + or - 0.5
venturi diameter 25 mm
idle jet 45
main jet 120
air correction jet 125
accelerator pump jet 40
float level 36.5mm + or - 1
needle valve mm 1.7 mm
choke fast idle gap 0.7 mm
fast idle position 20 degrees
choke pull down 6.4mm

hope this helps

[youngscottie]

tell me more about this book and where you sourced it
mabey:ho: will bring me a copy

[jonnyshaw49]

ebay mate haynes book of carburettors has every car model blue book picture of nice shiny engine on front

[Markey Mark (BD)]

If going by your other threads its running lumpy on idle i don't think adjusting the acc pump jet will change much on that mate.

Check the size of the idle jet you got in there, see if its too big or if ther bullet is missing.

Can you see fuel dribbling down venturi which can cause lumpy idle?

[jonnyshaw49]

hi mate nah the idle jet is fine its the 45 one and bullet in, the rubber gasket is sealed aswell no leak, even tried a 44 idle jet made no difference. in the manual it says for lumpy idle can be a number of things

ACCELERATOR PUMP:

a defective accelerator pump is a common reason for hesitancy, particulary at low speed,to test blip throttle , a strong stream of petrol should be squirted from the pump injector

this is why i think my acc pump could be at fault-what you think?

also is states for idle faults:

because the idle circuit is often sourced from the main fuel circuit it is possible for a main jet fault such as calcium build up to cause idle stability. the calcium is caused by water reacting with the carb alloy, water is formed in the fuel tank by condensation and this calcuim can easily block jets and internal channels, lead plugs may need to be drilled out and new ones punched in (what are lead plugs)

blocked idle jet is most common idle problem- causes engine to stall or idle roughly

also the idle orifice can become blocked causing intermittent stalling

a fairly rare complaint is for the secondary throttle to be slightly open at idle, causes a very rich idle as discharge occurs at the secondary progression drillings or slot. it could occur due to a carbon ring holding open the throttle plate or through maladjustment of the secondary throttle stop screw.the screw should be adjusted so that the plate is open just enough to prevent it seizing in the throttle bore

idle repeatability:

run the engine at idle speed and at normal operating temperature

2. Let the idle speed and CO level to within the manufacturer's specifications, then note the exact values obtained.

3. If an HC meter is available, note the HC level.

4. Blip the throttle and check that the CO level and idle speed quickly return to stabilize within + or - 0.25% and + or - 10 rpm of the values previously noted. Repeat this several times. If the readings do not fall within even twice the allowable tolerance, or the CO reading tends to drift, then refer to paragraph 6.

5. if an HC meter is available, then return figure should be within + or - 20 ppm of the value previously noted.

6. Readings outside these values indicate the following..
a) throttle linkage or cable badly adjusted or sticking
b) tight valve clearances or a vacuum leak
c) throttle shaft worn or sticking, or won shaft bores or in the carburettor body
d) excessive engine blow-by
e) carburettor service required

7. jiggle the throttle shafts to check for excess movement

hope this info helps

[Markey Mark (BD)]

hi mate nah the idle jet is fine its the 45 one and bullet in, the rubber gasket is sealed aswell no leak, even tried a 44 idle jet made no difference. in the manual it says for lumpy idle can be a number of things

ACCELERATOR PUMP:

a defective accelerator pump is a common reason for hesitancy, particulary at low speed,to test blip throttle , a strong stream of petrol should be squirted from the pump injector

this is why i think my acc pump could be at fault-what you think?

Yeah that is correct mate if you don't have a nice squirt of fuel coming out or indeed not enought then you will have a hesitation when pressing the throttle down.


[/quote]

a fairly rare complaint is for the secondary throttle to be slightly open at idle, causes a very rich idle as discharge occurs at the secondary progression drillings or slot. it could occur due to a carbon ring holding open the throttle plate or through maladjustment of the secondary throttle stop screw.the screw should be adjusted so that the plate is open just enough to prevent it seizing in the throttle bore

[/quote]

With this quote mate it sounds to me like there describing a twin choke carb, not what a GT carb is.

I believe your lumpy idle is still something to do with the idle circuit or the way its possibly set up (not knocking your work though mate ;)). Maybe even a problem with the base plate itself, i've had this once or twice.


Do you know the exact spec of the carb at all? Venturi size, jet sizes?

[jonnyshaw49]

all the carb is standard mate, 120 main jet, standard venturi, not de choked, idle jet 45, i have fully rebuilt the carb with new gasket and diaphragm set, checked base for flat and replaced all vac hoses, thats why i was thinking maybe set acc pump arm wrong, i set it at 5mm but the book says could be 7 mm so not sure now what to set it at, also might have set it at the wrong side as book says must be progression side. will have to whip carb off again for 4th time lol. check float level and choke fast idle gap. the car was already modified before bought it so not sure if second stage could have been drilled etc but dont know how to check. do you just check fuel dribbling down venturi with carb top off without it running? is there any way of getting base flattened or is it a new carb job, i have 3 carbs but not rebuilt just old ones. i put them on and wasnt much difference. appreciate any help thanks

[Markey Mark (BD)]

all the carb is standard mate, 120 main jet, standard venturi, not de choked, idle jet 45, i have fully rebuilt the carb with new gasket and diaphragm set, checked base for flat and replaced all vac hoses, thats why i was thinking maybe set acc pump arm wrong, i set it at 5mm but the book says could be 7 mm so not sure now what to set it at, also might have set it at the wrong side as book says must be progression side. will have to whip carb off again for 4th time lol. check float level and choke fast idle gap. the car was already modified before bought it so not sure if second stage could have been drilled etc but dont know how to check. appreciate any help thanks

How was the carb modified before mate, do you know what jet sizes it was and who done it?
Just wondering if it was a modified carb are there still modified bits in there, even though parts, for example the venturi, say '25' on them they may be modified still.

To check the second stage jet remove the trianglar block off the carb (passenger side) and you will see a brass jet pressed into the carb body at an angle, you'll need some small drill bits and push them in there till you find one that feels tight, that will be the size.

The carb should not have any fuel dribbling down the venturi when running or switched off. Is your car doing this?

[jonnyshaw49]

thanks for the reply mate, do i just run the car with lobster off to check the fuel dribbling down the venturi.will the car run with lobster off? i dont mean the carb was modified the engine as a whole was, cam and t2/t25 turbo, so was wondering if they would hae messed with carb. but would second stage only be messed with for high boost?thanks

[Kris M]

Yes it will run with the lobster removed :)

[jonnyshaw49]

nice1!!!!!!!!!!!!!ill check it out:)

[jonnyshaw49]

UPDATE

i have had another mess with the car today and noticed some bits, i took carb lobster off and checked for any dribbling down the venturi, it was dry, however there was fuel gushing from the centre of the venturi infront of the air corrector jet (cant find what its called in the book) is this normal??think its the supply of fuel for idle. anyway i also noticed on closer inspection the air corrector jet had been soldered and drilled so whipped it out and replaced with one out of another carb. made no difference on idle. the fuel was still a constant gush. i also checked that the pump injector gave a nice clean spurt on throttle (it did). then i decided to replace all the vac pipes with brand new goodyear hose, and re started engine, it doesnt idle with much difference but now in the centre of the venturi it is not gushing but a nice trickle. so i thought its time to whip the carb off to check acc arm and float level, which i still need to do. once carb was off i checked all other jets they seem fine not soldered and drilled and standard size, i have checked all the diapragms to see if i had done them right other week. there fine. when i looked at the tiny enrichment jet on the enrichment system that bolts off the carb, the jet looked suspicious smaller than the one on another carb (but had no drill bits small enough to check) so removed this part of carb and swopped it with another of the other carb and replaced all new diapragms. i have now fixed that back onto the carb. i am now going to check the float level 36.5mm and acc pump arm. should it be set to 5mm or 7mm?? and is there anything else i should check whilst carb is off what could cause lumpy idle??? thanks for any help

[James5]

UPDATE

i have had another mess with the car today and noticed some bits, i took carb lobster off and checked for any dribbling down the venturi, it was dry, however there was fuel gushing from the centre of the venturi infront of the air corrector jet (cant find what its called in the book) is this normal??think its the supply of fuel for idle. anyway i also noticed on closer inspection the air corrector jet had been soldered and drilled so whipped it out and replaced with one out of another carb. made no difference on idle. the fuel was still a constant gush. i also checked that the pump injector gave a nice clean spurt on throttle (it did). then i decided to replace all the vac pipes with brand new goodyear hose, and re started engine, it doesnt idle with much difference but now in the centre of the venturi it is not gushing but a nice trickle. so i thought its time to whip the carb off to check acc arm and float level, which i still need to do. once carb was off i checked all other jets they seem fine not soldered and drilled and standard size, i have checked all the diapragms to see if i had done them right other week. there fine. when i looked at the tiny enrichment jet on the enrichment system that bolts off the carb, the jet looked suspicious smaller than the one on another carb (but had no drill bits small enough to check) so removed this part of carb and swopped it with another of the other carb and replaced all new diapragms. i have now fixed that back onto the carb. i am now going to check the float level 36.5mm and acc pump arm. should it be set to 5mm or 7mm?? and is there anything else i should check whilst carb is off what could cause lumpy idle??? thanks for any help


I always do 5mm and have no probs,

Lumpy idle could be restirctors missing or blocked, knackered one way valves on inlet manifold, incorrectly set tappets

[jonnyshaw49]

nice 1 mate its set at 5mm,i am running vaccuum pipe cup mod. i have removed one way valve im running cup breather mod and catch tank, the breather smokes abit though and stinks of fuel. is this normal???i will check tappets aswell once eliminating carb. thanks

[Markey Mark (BD)]

That fuel trickling down into the carb is what i meant by the fuel dribbling, thats not what you want to happen.

[jonnyshaw49]

so should the fuel not dribble out of the little nozzle at the top of the carb, inside the tube which is in the centre of the venturi ??at all?? is it not what feeds the engine at idle? then when throttle pressed the acc pump squirts a jet out of the little nozzle down the venturi,if it is faulty, what causes this mate???