Engine rebuilt

[BlueFish5Gt]

New poster! (less than 10 posts)

Since my c1j kicked the bucket and a turbo2 conversion is not worth the time and money I decided to rebuilt the existing one and do it on my own this time.I'm a bit wet behind the ear as far as this car is concerned but I've experience with motorcycle engines so I believe I'll make it in the end.I've seen some steel liners and forged pistons and rods on the internet on various shops.Is it worth buying from there or should I buy them directly from arrow,acrallite,arp e.t.c.?

My main goal is to build something reliable which will have the potential to work with a bigger turbo and higher boost in the future.

Should I keep the standard compression ratio 7,9:1 or lower 7,5:1?

I already have a 285 piper cam kit on should I keep it or use something else.

What kind of work could be done on the cylinder head?

I have a lot of questions which I will make during the project.

My goal is something with 200 Hp and a lot of torque.

P.S

Many thanks to Dave for his help on the temporary forum.

[Andrew Cooke]

Knowing a little of the problems you had with your current engine I think you should make some measurements of the one you're taking apart to understand what's wrong.

I'd start with cam timing, and compression ratio. Do a compression test if you can. Any pictures of stuff you see would be useful.

As I said to you before, you need to be a little careful with advice offered on this site as our weather is a little different to yours.

CR, towards 8:1
285 is a good cam, keep it, you may need a vernier.
Head, just a rebuild really, check guides, seats, smooth off any obvious sharp edges, and measure the combustion chamber volume so that you can check the compression ratio.
Pistons - rods - liners, depends how much money you want to spend, standard ones are pretty good.
The key is the turbo and intercooler.

[BlueFish5Gt]

New poster! (less than 10 posts)

I think I have a pushing rod issue because it sounds like it(The diesel sound).I gave it to a "friend" of mine to go to work and back because he crashed his raider on a Hyundai but instead of doing that he went racing with several cars.The last time it was with a 4throttle saxo aprox 200ps and a 200 ps shot of nos extra, that happened several times and in the end he blew the engine.

Now I didn't have time for much but I took the cylinder head out and the job on it must have been done by an ape or a caveman and i need a new one since the one I have is completely destroyed.The pistons are machined to drop the C/R so I need pistons as well.

[BlueFish5Gt]

New poster! (less than 10 posts)
I,ve been doing a lot of internet searching lately.

Has anybody tried this out?

http://global.ebay.com/gbh/viItem?ItemId=270240881093#photo

[raj]

New poster! (less than 10 posts)
I,ve been doing a lot of internet searching lately.

Has anybody tried this out?

http://global.ebay.com/gbh/viItem?ItemId=270240881093#photo

save your money mate

[BlueFish5Gt]

New poster! (less than 10 posts)


save your money mate

Thnks for the tip.:agree:

[Mart]

Wasn't Ilker fitting one of those 1.6 cranks to a c1j?

[BlueFish5Gt]

New poster! (less than 10 posts)

Here I am,back again with a few questions.

Does anybody have the part number of the Volvo clutch?

From which model was it?

Do I have to modify the flywheel or something else to fit it or it is a direct replacement?

Carburator.

Do the various "group A'' carbs worth buying or I just widen the diameter of the venturi to 27 and experiment with the rest of the parts.:crap:



Thank you in advance.

[Sparkie]

New poster! (less than 10 posts)

Here I am,back again with a few questions.

Does anybody have the part number of the Volvo clutch? Valeo part 801015.

From which model was it? pre 91 volvo 480 turbo, 200mm clutch.

Do I have to modify the flywheel or something else to fit it or it is a direct replacement? direct fitment, although some people add the clutch arm extensions

Carburator.

Do the various "group A'' carbs worth buying or I just widen the diameter of the venturi to 27 and experiment with the rest of the parts.:crap:
what power are you looking for? - i would just stick to 25mm at the moment.



Thank you in advance.

ok?

[tubby5]

New poster! (less than 10 posts)


save your money mate

why:confused:

[Scoff]

New poster! (less than 10 posts)



why:confused:

because ultimately the power you can squeeze from a c1j is limited by the cylinder head more than anything else. raising the capacity is only going to remove some of that lag, it won't make any more power. it still has to breath through the same poxy valves. In an x-flow engine like a turbo 2 or gordini it is going to be alot more worth while since the better cylinder head means you'd need a lot more RPM to max it out. the extra stroke and capacity will help produce that power at a sensible rpm.

[BlueFish5Gt]

Sparkie thanks for the information.

The power I am looking for at least at the moment is about 200hp or less but in a wide rpm range.



because ultimately the power you can squeeze from a c1j is limited by the cylinder head more than anything else. raising the capacity is only going to remove some of that lag, it won't make any more power. it still has to breath through the same poxy valves. In an x-flow engine like a turbo 2 or gordini it is going to be alot more worth while since the better cylinder head means you'd need a lot more RPM to max it out. the extra stroke and capacity will help produce that power at a sensible rpm.

Scoff I made a quote about fitting a turbo 2 lump in my gt at the temporary forum and I was told that it doesn't worth the money and effort and I could gain a lot more with a volvo or an f7p instead.I am not looking for the ultimate power at the moment but what made me think about the turbo 2 lump is the cross flow cylinder head along with the injection witch would give me the potential of doing something better than the standard cylinder head in the future.The reason I'm not interested in a 1.8 lump is that I would rather have something that is not that far from the original.I saw a photo of a turbo 2 lump in the "ol trusty" 5 (or was it a gordini setup after all?)and got the idea but at the moment its only just a thought.
Here in Greece many used oversized volvo valves on the standard c1j cylinder head wich worked quite well.That was in the late 80's early 90's now nobody is interested in the 5 anymore.:(

[Scoff]

Scoff I made a quote about fitting a turbo 2 lump in my gt at the temporary forum and I was told that it doesn't worth the money and effort and I could gain a lot more with a volvo or an f7p instead.I am not looking for the ultimate power at the moment but what made me think about the turbo 2 lump is the cross flow cylinder head along with the injection witch would give me the potential of doing something better than the standard cylinder head in the future.The reason I'm not interested in a 1.8 lump is that I would rather have something that is not that far from the original.I saw a photo of a turbo 2 lump in the "ol trusty" 5 (or was it a gordini setup after all?)and got the idea but at the moment its only just a thought.
Here in Greece many used oversized volvo valves on the standard c1j cylinder head wich worked quite well.That was in the late 80's early 90's now nobody is interested in the 5 anymore.:(

Yeah, it's a lot of work for sure. I wasn't suggesting anyone did it, rarther suggesting that the crank would be better used in an actual turbo 2.

There's a few choices for valves over here including inlets from a metro turbo.

The pictures you saw were of andy cooke's car, which happened to have the wing's on it from "old trusty" which was mart's old bruiser :)

[BlueFish5Gt]

Yeah, it's a lot of work for sure. I wasn't suggesting anyone did it, rarther suggesting that the crank would be better used in an actual turbo 2.

Wish I had one!There is one on sale here but the price tag is quite heavy for me,19k euro!


There's a few choices for valves over here including inlets from a metro turbo.

Are these easy to find in case I ever need them?


The pictures you saw were of andy cooke's car, which happened to have the wing's on it from "old trusty" which was mart's old bruiser :)

This is more complicated than the "Bold and the beautiful"soap opera :laugh::laugh::laugh:

Thanks again for you help.

[BlueFish5Gt]

After a long of time and money I bring back this thread from the dead because I have a question.

My old setup was a disaster and when the engine finally blew up I opened it and saw very interesting things.Before opening we measured the c/r and it was about 5,5:1 and the timing of the camshaft was a "tooth"(that is how we say it here in Greece)off.The third cylinder piston was destroyed along with the liner and rod.That is just for the history.

Now I am almost done with my new setup (which I am going to make a complete presentation when it's finished) and I was thinking of playing a bit with the advance and since the solutions that are available influence the whole range of R.P.M I searched a bit and came across this gadget.

http://www.enginemanagement.co.uk/downloads/KMS_Ignition_044_v1.0.pdf

Do you have anything else in mind that is tested for its reliability and will do the same job?

[Andrew Cooke]

my advice...

build the engine with the standard stuff, it's probably all you need.

however.... if you decide to map the ignition speak to Scoff about adaptronic. I say adaptronic because there is experience with it on this forum and people will be able to suggest the easiest way to get the job done, and can probably sort you out with a startup map. If you use anything else you're on your own when it comes to installation, tuning and problems, that's fine if the guy tuning it is a KMS expert, otherwise tread the easiest path.

[BlueFish5Gt]

The engine is now being finished since the headgasket has arrived.We followed the standard engine philosophy but I want to make the best out of some details such as timing for instance.The K.M.S widget costs 650 euro complete including the wiring,sensors,ignition coils,P.C interface and the unit itself.The price for a stand alone E.C.U starts from 800 euro here that is why I had a more serious look at this.