Project Yellow Peril [Archive]

Woznaldo

23-09-2009, 09:50

Well, I've had the car a while but it's not quite there yet (are they ever?) and I thought an entry in the project section is long overdue so here goes.

My first 5 was a Leccy Blue Ph1 that I ran for about 18 months and absolutely loved. In April '95 someone decided I was having too much fun and promptly T-boned me managing to snap off the LH rear trailing arm sending it down the road 50m!

A month later a friend with a Pearl White Ph2 had a minor interior fire and decided to break the car for parts. I saw this as fate and bought the rolling shell shortly after with the intension of creating some sort of half way house between Max Power monstrosity and Race car.

The shell was stripped of all equipment, other than subframes and suspension, and sent it off to a bodyshop to be sprayed in a VW Yellow (can't remember the exact colour) complete with std width Skeete front and rear bumpers, R19 style grill, cool louvres bonnet and Morette twin headlamps, while I sunned myself in war torn Croatia for 6 months.

7 years later and the being trailered all over the UK for various reasons (rented garage evictions, Army postings etc, etc) then finally I was posted to a RAF Base (club med to someone in the Army) where they had a car club!

Over the next four years I managed to complete some minor jobs which included fitting a std donor engine from a scrapper that I paid 250 quid for (result:D), fitting the wiring loom, glass, seatbelts, door & boot mechs, brakes and suspension.

In Feb '06 I made the move down under and decided that I couldn't leave an unfinished project and so imported it to Oz with me! So over the last 3.5 years I've been trying to finish the project with the new goal of getting the car fit for road use in Oz with a target of competing some form of Sprinting in 2010? (Probably optimistic based on the time taken so far).

Enough waffle. I'll try to get some pics up, some of which I've already posted in seperate threads but, what the hey!

Woz

Woznaldo

23-09-2009, 13:04

This pic is from last year while at work:
http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/The%20Yellow%20Peril/IMG_0919.jpg

Engine bay now:
http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/The%20Yellow%20Peril/IMG_2977.jpg

A heat shield I made to protect the AEI. Note the air filter warm air intake zip tie mod;).
http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/The%20Yellow%20Peril/IMG_2976.jpg

Woznaldo

23-09-2009, 13:11

Carbon door card panel from 'CarbonTrim':
http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/The%20Yellow%20Peril/IMG_0914.jpg

Cheap boost gauge to give a rough idea of what boost I'm running (14.5psi at the moment):
http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/The%20Yellow%20Peril/IMG_0912.jpg

My Leda struts that require some machining of the lower attachment bolt holes to allow for better camber adjustment:
http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/The%20Yellow%20Peril/IMG_2975.jpg

Woznaldo

23-09-2009, 13:17

One of the girls at work thought my car looked "cute":mad: (she's got an old Mustang) so I've decided to paint my wheels black until I can afford some good quality light weight rims.

Paint stripper applied:
http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/The%20Yellow%20Peril/IMG_2960.jpg

In the sand blaster:
http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/The%20Yellow%20Peril/IMG_2963.jpg

Out of the sand blaster:
http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/The%20Yellow%20Peril/IMG_2961.jpg
http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/The%20Yellow%20Peril/IMG_2964.jpg

Woznaldo

23-09-2009, 13:25

Final coat of primer applied but I'll probably clean up that inside rim a bit more...:
http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/The%20Yellow%20Peril/IMG_2981.jpg
http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/The%20Yellow%20Peril/IMG_2982.jpg

Woznaldo

23-09-2009, 13:32

Thought I'd try a Big Disc conversion. This one is from CRN Performance (ebay). Note the 2 x RH rear discs:(. Tried emailing several times but it's ok to fob me off as I'm on the other side of the world!!!:mad::disagree:
http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/IMG_1436.jpg

gtmatt

23-09-2009, 14:16

looks good so far mate keep it up , is the car is oz now ?? u still working for the raf , car looks good in the storage hanger , keep the project updated matt:)

Duncan Grier

23-09-2009, 14:58

Woz good progress, you seem to get nothing but pain with some of your bits :( did you ever get those top mounts sorted out?

If it makes you feel better I run the same discs at the rear on mine (vx220) and although I have the option of the grooves direction (not the important bit) but as mine are vented the directional vaines inside are - shoc horror the same way so 1 side cools correctly but the other draws the heat ot the centre of the disc. 1 side gets hotter than the other lol

Not so hot that it causes issues but found a LOT of disc companies do this which kind of defeats the work/upgrade. May as well stay bi-directional and oes not matter which way they go on.

If it makes you feel better it will make no difference on a 5 ;) been solid discs and how little the rears work :)

DG

Woznaldo

24-09-2009, 12:12

I'm tempted just to run the rears anyway as, like you say, they do next to naff all. As for the Top Mounts no where near sorted. I have sent countless emails and called Bill Fiddler dozens of times but when I speak to him he tells me that they've already been sent yet he can't supply me with a tracker number:mad:.

If I was still in UK now I would have seen him i person long ago and had this sorted. God I frikkin hate when people try to pull the wool over your eyes!

AlexS

24-09-2009, 12:54

May as well stay bi-directional
DG

We always knew you swung both ways Duncan. :eek: :laugh:

Respect to you Woz for sticking with the R5 and exporting to Oz. Not a straightforward or cheap thing to do!:agree:

Andrew Cooke

24-09-2009, 13:06

I have sent countless emails and called Bill Fiddler dozens of times but when I speak to him he tells me that they've already been sent yet he can't supply me with a tracker number:mad:.

ahhh, Mr Bill - string you along until you lose interest - Fiddler :brickwall:

Woznaldo

24-09-2009, 13:47

Well, enough of the doom and gloom here's an old photo of the engine bay that shows some of the colour coding I did on the subframe, heater matrix plate and brake servo:
http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/The%20Yellow%20Peril/DSC00017.jpg

Woznaldo

24-09-2009, 13:54

Some of the never ending and laborious sound deadening matt removal. Heat gun and scraper seamed to work best then, wiping of the residual with an alcohol based solvent:

http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/The%20Yellow%20Peril/IMG_1968.jpg

This how not to do it. I didn't know it had to be DRY ice to do this:
http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/The%20Yellow%20Peril/IMG_1973.jpg

http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/The%20Yellow%20Peril/IMG_1974.jpg

Sparkie

24-09-2009, 14:27

try using that Grip or Hotlap stuff for tyres.
i spilt some in the back of my gtt and it fetched off the bitumen based inner arch sheets and started softening the sound deadening!

Woznaldo

25-09-2009, 09:15

It's all but done now (i'll dig out some photos soon), all with a heat gun and scraper took me two evenings in 3 hr stints. Must have lost an easy half a stone in sweat!

Woznaldo

25-09-2009, 09:28

This is the easy access way to swap an engine from car to car. Must have taken 5hrs max.
http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/The%20Yellow%20Peril/SA000282.jpg

One two post lift and a sturdy tool cabinet on wheels
http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/The%20Yellow%20Peril/SA000283.jpg

Engine lift to take it out of the subframe in to the drip pan waiting area.
http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/The%20Yellow%20Peril/SA000286.jpg

Old subframe back on donor car (to wheel it out)
http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/The%20Yellow%20Peril/SA000287.jpg

Wheel in the Yellow Peril, drop the subframe.
http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/The%20Yellow%20Peril/SA000293.jpg

Subframe back up with donor engine and car lowered on to the deck. Sorted;)
http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/The%20Yellow%20Peril/SA000295.jpg

Woznaldo

25-09-2009, 09:35

A nice shiny stainless battery tray. Thought it might last a bit longer.
http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/The%20Yellow%20Peril/SA000297.jpg

Duncan Grier

25-09-2009, 11:04

We always knew you swung both ways Duncan. :eek: :laugh:

Respect to you Woz for sticking with the R5 and exporting to Oz. Not a straightforward or cheap thing to do!:agree:

Easy Al :D

Can't believe he is still messing you around :mad:

I went for heat to remove the stuff in the boot on mine and was great fun.........not lol

DG

Woznaldo

09-10-2009, 04:26

Small update. Final top coat on my wheels. Just got to get some tyres and I've been offered a really good deal on a set of Federal 595 RS-R so I think I might take them up.

http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/The%20Yellow%20Peril/IMG_3011.jpg

djinuk

09-10-2009, 07:36

cool project.. enjoying it :)

Woznaldo

05-01-2010, 21:07

Update:

Finally had the struts machined and put them back on the car but I still need to get a new set of tyres before I can get the car on the road. I'm after some R-spec tyres and would prefer something like Toyo R888, Yokohama A048, or some Dunlop equivalents but as the cheapest of the above (Toyo) come in at the best deal of A$280 each (135 quid at the current exchange), I have been forced to look at something cheaper.

I'm now looking at a set of Federal 595RS-R tyres at A$150 each, which is a bit more bearable. Has anyone had any experience with these tyres?

I also decided to throw on one of my 285mm TXI type discs to see where they hit when used with my R19 Ph2 wheels. Pics below:

Disc size comparison, 238mm v 285mm
http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/The%20Yellow%20Peril/IMG_3104.jpg

Extender Bracket fitted with carrier without disc for photo only:
http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/The%20Yellow%20Peril/IMG_3105.jpg

Close up of extender bracket:
http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/The%20Yellow%20Peril/IMG_3107.jpg

Top view of extender bracket:
http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/The%20Yellow%20Peril/IMG_3106.jpg

285mm dice fitted:
http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/The%20Yellow%20Peril/IMG_3110.jpg

Wheel fitted:
http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/The%20Yellow%20Peril/IMG_3111.jpg

You can see (sort of) where the sliding part of the caliper i.e. the caliper, not the carrier hit the inside of the spokes of the wheels

http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/The%20Yellow%20Peril/IMG_3114.jpg

J8TRO

05-01-2010, 22:58

Hi Buddy, Good build, making progress I can imagine how hard it is to get parts for your 5 on the other side of the planet!

I had the same problem with the Phase 2 16v wheels hitting the caliper after putting the bigger brake conversion on, but imagine you could shave the front of the caliper to gain the clearance you need as it only just touches so 3 or 4mm off the caliper face should do.

Please note I'm no mechanic, so id check this wouldn't have any adverse effects :scared:

Woznaldo

15-01-2010, 09:23

I've been waiting/saving for a set of Toyo R888s but, they just cost too much in Oz so, I've decided to with some road tyres for the time being. Got them for a good price so it was hard to say no (good for Oz anyway). Went with some Bridgestone Potenza Adrenalin RE001s in 195/50R15 and have to say they look the mutts nuts.

So next on the agenda is wheel alignment and then a MOT of sorts. I'll put some pics up of the wheels fitted to the car soon....

Woz

Woznaldo

15-01-2010, 10:09

Some pics of the new tyres on the repainted wheels:

http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/The%20Yellow%20Peril/IMG_3125.jpg

http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/The%20Yellow%20Peril/IMG_3123.jpg

http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/The%20Yellow%20Peril/IMG_3124.jpg

http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/The%20Yellow%20Peril/IMG_3127.jpg

http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/The%20Yellow%20Peril/IMG_3128.jpg

Thanks for having butchers.

http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/The%20Yellow%20Peril/IMG_3129.jpg

http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/The%20Yellow%20Peril/IMG_3130.jpg

http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/The%20Yellow%20Peril/IMG_3132.jpg

Kenobi

15-01-2010, 10:42

Looking good, Nice thread.

J8TRO

15-01-2010, 21:09

Did you sort your brake clearance issue?

Ricardo

15-01-2010, 21:27

Woz, a big well done to getting this GT on the road, i imagine it couldn't have been easy :agree: :cool:

Woznaldo

15-01-2010, 22:16

Did you sort your brake clearance issue?

I've just gone with the std size discs for the time being. I've seen some 288mm DBA discs for a series 2 Lotus Elise. They have a top hat height of 44.5mm and are 26mm thick, that puts the centre of the vents within 0.5mm of the std disc. Another bonus is that the centrebore is 60.1mm (same as Renault). The only downside is the PCD which is the weird rover one at 96.5mm? Obviously the holes could be elongated to account for this.

The part number is DBA52355 from the DBA 5000 Series, which are 2 piece alloy bell discs and weigh 6kg.

Woznaldo

15-01-2010, 22:18

Woz, a big well done to getting this GT on the road, i imagine it couldn't have been easy :agree: :cool:

Not quite there yet but, I am getting closer!

Woznaldo

18-01-2010, 22:26

Small update.

I've tried a bit of DIY wheel alignment just to see what figures I get and to see if they will compare with the figures found by a pro wheel alignment shop. I have only measured the toe settings front and rear and this is what I got:

Front toe: 30' toe out (probably 20' on the right wheel with steering rack centred):disagree: should be 10'

Rear toe: 40' toe in (20' each side):agree: tolerance is 20'-50' toe in

http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/The%20Yellow%20Peril/IMG_3134.jpg

I've also applied the all important RTOC Sunstrip Sticker to the rear window. Lets see how it fairs in the Australian sun?

http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/The%20Yellow%20Peril/IMG_3137.jpg

Andrew Cooke

19-01-2010, 00:23

rather than use axel stands which invariably get knocked and cause untold stress I have 2 poles that are notched for the fishing line and get attached to the front and rear of the car.

Woznaldo

19-01-2010, 07:31

rather than use axel stands which invariably get knocked and cause untold stress I have 2 poles that are notched for the fishing line and get attached to the front and rear of the car.

I was just having a quick play really but, you're absolutely right. It took ages to get them in the right place and as you can see in the picture, kids scooters and kids equals untold stress when tryng to do this kind of thing.

I posted an article on the old site about a guy in the states with an Integra doing his wheel alignment exactly as you describe. I want to fit some kind of quick release brackets behind the front and rear bumpers to do this for my car eventually.

I still need to make up some kind of camber gauge too. I think I've got some 5mm aluminium sheet knocking about that could be utilised? It would also be rather useful to know the corner weights but, I'm still trying to get my work to buy some digital scales for "Aircraft Loading" but, nothing short of a genius justification letter will get anywhere close.:coffee:

Woznaldo

23-01-2010, 12:11

Small Update

Early last year I was part of a group buy for a full set of silicon hoses from ASI Performance. I received the hoses on 3rd March last year but, due to work and deciding wether or not to fit them before registration, I hadn't got around to fitting them until a few days ago!

I was spurred on to making the change when I noticed the that the OE header tank top hose had a split, so I thought I'd do the lot.

Bay before while draining fluid
http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/The%20Yellow%20Peril/IMG_3142.jpg

Draining the coolant
http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/The%20Yellow%20Peril/IMG_3141.jpg

New hoses laid out ready to go
http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/The%20Yellow%20Peril/IMG_3140.jpg

Old OE Hoses out of the engine bay. Kept the good ones
http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/The%20Yellow%20Peril/IMG_3143.jpg

Small problem. Although I checked the hoses when they arrived (number of hoses and condition), I thought I'd account for all the positions, however, it turns out that 2 of the bags I have received have the same hoses!:cry: This means I don't have the turbo water hoses.:mad:

I've managed to bodge together some black rubber EFI hose to fill the gap for the time being buy have contacted ASI and I'm awaiting a reply.......
http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/The%20Yellow%20Peril/IMG_3145.jpg

All the hoses I have got have been fitted and you can see the black EFI hose passing over the breather hoses in front of the carb. Excuse the oil and grime over the new hoses but a good clean is well down on my list of priorities.
http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/The%20Yellow%20Peril/IMG_3154.jpg

It seems like every time I buy something from overseas recently, the goods never quite turn out as good as they should?

Woznaldo

23-01-2010, 12:13

Tomorrow my first job is to get me a 25mm ID dump valve blanking plug or maybe a small section of hard pipe to delete the DV take off?

clee

23-01-2010, 12:25

Nah !!! Put a DV on Woz .You know you want to .
Looking good now :agree:

r5gt1986

23-01-2010, 14:42

New poster! (less than 10 posts)

Well done, well done, can you tell if you have refined the engine or just renewed, and whether the original Turbo. CRANKSET rings or examine limestone clutch.

Woznaldo

23-01-2010, 21:47

New poster! (less than 10 posts)

Well done, well done, can you tell if you have refined the engine or just renewed, and whether the original Turbo. CRANKSET rings or examine limestone clutch.

The bottom end is std from my donor vehicle but, the head has had ports matched to manifolds and some light flow work. The boost is set at around 14psi at the moment but, when I've had the AFR sensor on it I was getting 12.8 at WOT in fourth so i'll have to make an adjustment there (2nd stage enrichment maybe?).

I've still got some big plans for EFI but I just want to get it registered first.

Blot

23-01-2010, 21:59

http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/The%20Yellow%20Peril/IMG_3154.jpg
[/quote]

Loving the yellow peril :agree:

Ricardo

24-01-2010, 01:07

Someone must have a bracket they can send to Woz for the degas chamber (swirlpot) :)

Woznaldo

24-01-2010, 12:26

Someone must have a bracket they can send to Woz for the degas chamber (swirlpot) :)

The zip tie is a bit bodgey but I must admit that I can't even remember what the swirl pot bracket looks like?

Anyone got a picture?

Woznaldo

24-01-2010, 12:35

Is this the bracket I need for the swirl pot? CBG call this the degassing tank bracket?

Ricardo

24-01-2010, 12:39

Is this the bracket I need for the swirl pot? CBG call this the degassing tank bracket?

That's the 1 Woz, it slides on the lower right headlight thread when you look at the headlight from the back, use the headlight nut to hold it in place. Many a pipe have been chaifed on the aux belt from the swirlpot

Ricardo

24-01-2010, 12:40

The zip tie is a bit bodgey but I must admit that I can't even remember what the swirl pot bracket looks like?

Anyone got a picture?

It wasn't a dig it's that there's been many a 5 on the hard shoulder with a chaifed water hose because the swirl pot isn't attached :ashamed:

Woznaldo

24-01-2010, 20:50

Hopefully that bracket will still work for my car as I have had to fit a 'Carbon Canister' for the engineering compliance over here?! I'll post a pic soon so you can see what I mean.;)

As promised:
http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/The%20Yellow%20Peril/IMG_3161.jpg

http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/The%20Yellow%20Peril/IMG_3162.jpg

Vent hole on the Air Filter Box going to the Carbon Canister
http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/The%20Yellow%20Peril/IMG_3166.jpg

Woznaldo

25-01-2010, 08:35

Dump valve blank fitted. Got this one from Turbosmart for about 8 quid
http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/The%20Yellow%20Peril/IMG_3158.jpg

http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/The%20Yellow%20Peril/IMG_3159.jpg

Woznaldo

09-02-2010, 11:44

Off for the final roadworthy inspection (sort of MOT) tomorrow morning. Hopefully it will all go to plan. Once this is done, it's all paperwork and number plates! :coffee:

g10far

09-02-2010, 14:35

Great thread to read through, I hope all goes well with your test/inspection!!

Ricardo

09-02-2010, 14:46

Excellent, so close now :) :agree:

gtmatt

09-02-2010, 20:26

getting there mate:)

Wallace

09-02-2010, 20:39

Good luck:agree:

Seems to be going well so far............:cool:

Woznaldo

10-02-2010, 08:00

Dropped the car off at 0800 in the morning and explained how to open the bonnet, that the 'cool' door handles are std and that it would start better on the choke. He said he would give me a call when it's done.

I called just after lunch to give the dude an alternate number, as I was in a poor reception area, and he told me that he hadn't started because there was a backlog from the day before :mad:.

You'd think they wouldn't book me in if they were so snowed under? Just have to wait until tomorrow now:dearme:.

Woznaldo

13-02-2010, 07:21

OK, got sent away on a recovery with work and didn't get back until 1630 yesterday, which left me just enough time to pick up the car.

It failed! Reasons were:

-Couldn't read VIN
-No head lining - too many shape edges? Anal Aussie rules!
-Gearbox oil leak
-VIN on import approval, old V5 and strut tower are the same but, the engineers compliance report VIN doesn't :mad:. I think I'm more vexed that I didn't notice after it was done.

The VIN has already been sorted as it was just from the respray, so I've just stripped the paint that covers it on the strut tower. I'll throw some laquer over the top for protection.

Not too sure what to do about the head lining as I don't have any and I'm not paying the shipping to get one sent over. I might see if they're happy with some sponge insulating tape in the key areas?

I know about the repair kit for the gearbox selector shaft so'I'll have to get one on order sharpish. They work out at 54 euros door to door.

Should be easy enough for the engineer to come out to do a physical check and then reprint the cover page of the report?

Bugger............:D

rs250nut

13-02-2010, 08:23

Trevhib

13-02-2010, 09:48

So close mate!

Ridiculous how anal they are over there about import cars and yet they let some dreadful Aussie and S.E. Asian heaps on the roads, often driven by complete t*ss pots. Far more dangerous.

Woznaldo

26-02-2010, 06:58

Tried to sort my gearbox selector rod leak recently and also noticed that part of the reason there's a lot of play in my gear stick, is the state of the nylon cup that the selector linkage sits in! Took the opportunity to fix up both issues:
http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/The%20Yellow%20Peril/IMG_3273.jpg

I've pulled the external selector rod seal down and stretched an o-ring over the selector rod and seal so that I can squeeze the o-ring between the internal and external selector rod seals, if you follow (o-ring no pictured)
http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/The%20Yellow%20Peril/IMG_3280.jpg

I've also added a film additive by 'Lucas' to help stop the leak. I won't be able to test it's effectiveness until I get some new selector rod/linkage boots and road test it.

Woznaldo

20-03-2010, 13:45

Got a couple of trick bits from www.dp-automotive.hu for the gear shift. Very nice guy and a pleasure to do business with. Here's his quickshift kit:
http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/The%20Yellow%20Peril/IMG_3423.jpg

This is his Stiff Shift 2.0 adjustable gear stick ball joint housing. A work of art and very well engineered:
http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/The%20Yellow%20Peril/IMG_3426.jpg
http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/The%20Yellow%20Peril/IMG_3428.jpg

Woznaldo

20-03-2010, 13:51

Here is the Stiff Shift 2.0 mounted in the gear stick support housing, together with the gear stick itself:
http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/The%20Yellow%20Peril/IMG_3478.jpg

The housing needed modifying to allow the SS 2.0 Allen adjustment bolts to be accessed:
http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/The%20Yellow%20Peril/IMG_3464.jpg

Brigsy

20-03-2010, 18:11

Looks like a decent bit of kit!:agree:

Woznaldo

23-03-2010, 09:34

Looks like a decent bit of kit!:agree:

It does seem to be. I've now fitted it to the car and the shift has a beautiful snick, snick, firm precise feel to it. Very pleased with the result and would definitely recommend the Stiff Shift 2.0 and the Quick Shift to anybody.;)

Woznaldo

23-03-2010, 09:38

Woznaldo

23-03-2010, 09:42

Oh, on a brighter note, my work have just procured a four point aircraft weigh kit, so I will be able to have a crack at sorting the corner weights! I'll get plenty of pics and let you know how I get on.

Woznaldo

24-03-2010, 07:09

I've put the car in for it's second attempt at passing the 'Road Worthy Inspection' but didn't finish work in time to pick it up:(. Don't yet know the result and have been told that when (being optomistic?) it passes, they will need to send off for some mod plates that will be riveted to the bulkhead and that may take up to 2 weeks! Oh the pain:sad:.

Picked the car up at lunchtime today from the inspection and was chuffed to hear that the Yellow Peril passed...... ......but, there was a clause.

The engine number on the documents looks like the Renault prefix i.e. C1J 788 and then the actual engine number X000000. The fix for this is to take all of my documents to the 'Road Traffic Authority' (like the DVLA), who will then refer me to a Vehicle Identification Centre? Once this is done, I can then go back to the RTA for a set of plates and away we go! Still looks like a 2 week turn around :(.

God the wheels turn slowly in Oz.

Woznaldo

25-03-2010, 07:00

Got back to the RTA today and have managed to get an appointment at a centre that's about an hour and a half away on the 31st of March. So, if all goes to plan and I can get back to the RTA later that day, I'll be all legal!!!!!

Woznaldo

25-03-2010, 08:27

I thought I'd put up a few more shots of my Quick Shift fitted to the car. Here's the Shift Rod starting to be modified with my trusty Dremel!

http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/The%20Yellow%20Peril/SelectorRodTrimming.jpg (http://s196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/The%20Yellow%20Peril/?action=view&current=SelectorRodTrimming.jpg)

Heres the Shift Rod after first attempt - FAIL

http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/The%20Yellow%20Peril/IMG_3523.jpg (http://s196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/The%20Yellow%20Peril/?action=view&current=IMG_3523.jpg)

Here's the final attempt - WIN

http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/The%20Yellow%20Peril/IMG_3543.jpg (http://s196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/The%20Yellow%20Peril/?action=view&current=IMG_3543.jpg)

Made it look a bit smarter but, wondering whether to add some strength and close the 'hole'?

http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/The%20Yellow%20Peril/IMG_3546.jpg (http://s196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/The%20Yellow%20Peril/?action=view&current=IMG_3546.jpg)

Not as easy as I first thought but, this kit was developed for the Mk1 Clio first which has a slightly different Shift Rod and Gear Stick Assy.

Brigsy

25-03-2010, 11:24

markey b

25-03-2010, 19:22

Woznaldo

26-03-2010, 12:34

I just ground the lip off the box for clearance:D The boot wont fit back on with the short shift so no need to keep it.

Did you have to grind the selector rod? i had to do mine the full length as it was hitting the gearbox when selecting 4th!

I had to bend the rod a little so I could get about 5mm clearance from the sump plug housing and I have fitted the boot that covers the linkage ball but not the one that covers the end of the selector rod/linkage eye end.

Woznaldo

26-03-2010, 12:38

i've just boughts a stiff shift, only the plastic one, but i noticed after driving my orange one that the gearstick was terrible compared to my raider, so hopefully it'll do the trick. instructions were emailed today and look pretty comprehensive

The instructions are very good but the English translation could be a little better and something I will offer Yanoo if he wants it. That said, his English is way better than my Hungarian! I've also taken plenty of photos while I've been pulling it apart and putting it all back together again for an article or just for reference.

Woznaldo

27-03-2010, 11:06

We just got an aircraft weigh kit at work. It's an old kit but I thought it might be ok to do my corner weights with. So today I took the car into work and had a crack.

http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/The%20Yellow%20Peril/IMG_3568.jpg

I started by trying to even up the ride height as best as I could measured from the base of the wheel arch extension and that seemed ok but, as I would roll the car back and forth after an adjustment, it would never quite equate to the adjustment I'd just made.

The best I could get was:

FL______FR
582mm 580mm

RL______RR
536mm 536mm

http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/The%20Yellow%20Peril/IMG_3569.jpg

As for the corner weights, I thought I'd get a diagonal with high weights front and rear but, the car seems biased to the right without me sitting in the drivers seat. Here's what I ended up with.

FL______FR
258kg 269kg

RL______RR
138kg 139kg

Total Weight: 804kg (3/4 of a tank of fuel)

Corner balance: 50.62% in favour of FR/RL

Woznaldo

27-03-2010, 11:14

I also had to relieve the rear bumper fwd face and some bodywork as both tyres was catching during routine driving. I've done the left rear and will attack right rear tomorrow.

http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/The%20Yellow%20Peril/IMG_3574.jpg

http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/The%20Yellow%20Peril/IMG_3577.jpg

http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/The%20Yellow%20Peril/IMG_3578.jpg

Woznaldo

28-03-2010, 09:36

Just been out on a road test and I'm still getting contact on the body in the area I've trimmed, so I'll have to take some more off and go again.

I've also noticed a couple of leaks. One oil and one water. I think the oil leak was from the rocker cover gasket so I pulled it off, re-seated it and put it back together.

The water leak is coming from the water pump but I'm not sure if it's the water pump assembly gasket or the pulley? I'm leaning towards gasket.

I need to get all of the above sorted by Tuesday night as I've got the inspection on Wednesday :crap:.

Woznaldo

06-04-2010, 09:25

Took the car for the inspection last wednesday and after the 40 min inspection, I was told that the whole number needs to be stamped directly onto the block. The inspector said that he had seen people remove one rivet of the original ID plate and bend it out of the way and stamp the number directly underneath.

I took the car back to the garage that did the road worthy inspection and they were shocked to find that they couldn't stamp the block and just sign it off themselves? Anyway, the block has now been stamped at the base of the just to rear of the crank pulley.

I can't get a re-inspection until 09 Apr 10 and will be on a 5 week course away from home, so it looks like the car won't see the re-inspection until the latter part of May!

Trevhib

06-04-2010, 10:34

Nice and light. :agree:

I imagine the asymmetry in weight is down to the gearbox being on the left so slightly more weight to the right (due to the block etc), not much but probably enough to make that small difference.

It's like the authorities really don't want your car on the Aussie road, maybe they think you'll eventually give up if they make it difficult enough. No chance of that bud, especially not now you're this close :)

Woznaldo

10-04-2010, 09:57

If there is an opportunity, I might book the car in during the course and fly back down to Sydney from Brisbane, hope it passes, and drive back the 1400km! (12hr drive over 2 days). To do this I'll have to bring my return flight fwd but, if the car fails, i'll be stuck in Sydney and will have to fork out for another flight at short notice. It's a fairly big gamble but, I do have a long weekend break coming up which may present the perfect opportunity?

I'll have to sit on this for a few days......

Woznaldo

31-05-2010, 07:33

UPDATE

OK, never got round to taking a break from my course so had to leave the re-inspection until today. Got off to a poor start as it was absolutely throwing down when I woke up and the wipers aren't as efficient as they could be but, they work all the same.

After the hour drive to get there, I arrived about 50 mins early (allowed for bad traffic) and was lucky enough to be seen straight away as the appointment ahead of me didn't show. I jumped in the car and tried to fire it up but, it would hardly turn over? On the third attempt it decided to reluctantly play the game so I could drive it on to the inspection ramp.

After 40 mins (a bit worried at this point) the dude walks in to the waiting room and declares that all is fine and that I needed to take all my paperwork up to the main office to get it all registered. By this point I'm pretty chuffed but didn't want to beak out the mexican wave just yet as I could be waiting a long time for my turn in the main office!

Arrived at the main registry office to find only 5 people in there, woo hoo! Almost too good to be true. Lady had a look at the docs and all seemed well. ONly issue they had was they couldn't find the model GT Turbo on their system so rather than temp fate we went with 5 Turbo 2! I'll get it fixed up later down the track.

Long storey short, the car passed and after 4 years and 3 months in Oz, is finally registered and road legal!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!:cool2::cool2::c ool2::burnrubber::burnrubber::burnrubber: (mexican wave)

I'm well and truly over the moon!

Bad points are: The wipers are not the shizzle :disagree:, battery is on it's last legs and alternator is on it's way out too but, today I couldn't give a rats rear end!

clee

31-05-2010, 08:52

Good stuff Woz ,well done :cool:You been out thrashing round the 'burbs yet then ?

Woznaldo

31-05-2010, 10:19

Not yet, doing homework with the kids, then I'll bolt the number plates on properly :rolleyes:

Trevhib

31-05-2010, 10:46

dangerous dave

31-05-2010, 10:58

:agree::beer:

Wallace

31-05-2010, 12:52

Wicked news mate:cool:

If i decide to join my bro over there, you may have to advise me what needs doing:D

At last get to enjoy it on the open road:burnrubber::goodJob:

boysie

31-05-2010, 15:58

well done!:agree: well worth all the grief im sure:D

4years and 3 months....... thats probably about how long its going to take me to get mine back on the road at the rate im going:coffee:.......:coffee:.....:D

Woznaldo

01-06-2010, 09:19

:) :agree:

Are you in with the Clio lot up there Woz? 172, 182, Cups etc etc. I can give you the number of a Sydney-based friend of mine who's all into it if you want. I think they have a website too. I went to a small meet just before I left. They are an alright bunch.

I'm on the Oz Renaultsport forum as well as Ausssiefrogs but whenever there's a meet, I'm away on some trip with work :mad:

I rang up a place called Alpine Affaire in Melbourne today, looking for a new alternator (yes mine has just S%$T itself) and the guy was very helpful but, didn't have one. He then asked if I was Melbourne based so he could check the car out!

I'm up there on a course for 5 months starting next weekend so I'll stick my head in and say hello :D.

T.K

01-06-2010, 11:35

Just to say, Federal 595 RSRs are excellent tyres if haven't picked these up already. :agree:

Trevhib

01-06-2010, 17:37

I'm on the Oz Renaultsport forum as well as Ausssiefrogs but whenever there's a meet, I'm away on some trip with work :mad:
.

You have PM :)

Woznaldo

08-06-2010, 12:10

My car managed to make the trip to Melbourne (850km) last Sunday without breaking down! However, the journey was not without incident.... ....as with all my kit in the back of the car, the suspension looked very compressed! After a reshuffle and putting most of the heavy stuff in the passenger footwell, I decided to head off.

As I hit the motorway I was getting some light rubbing but thought it would be too bad and would check it at the next rest area. Before I got there I hit a dip in the road and there was a pretty big bang. I slowed down and pulled into the rest area to check. The forward inside edge of the RH rear arch extension had cracked! The LH rear was rubbing in the same area but very lightly.

The tyres were uneffected by any of the damage and as I had to get to Melbourne at all costs, I continued with caution!

I completed the journey in 8.5 hrs! with the occasional rub. I have since removed some of the rear arch extension lips to get some more clearance have gone out in an unloaded car and all appears to be well? I think I'll have to take the rear torsion bars up a spline to increase the clearance a bit more?

I'll post up a few pics when my wireless is working properly (using my phone to post this).

LH Side
http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/The%20Yellow%20Peril/IMG_3655.jpg

http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/The%20Yellow%20Peril/IMG_3703.jpg

http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/The%20Yellow%20Peril/IMG_3704.jpg

http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/The%20Yellow%20Peril/IMG_3706.jpg

RH Side
http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/The%20Yellow%20Peril/IMG_3652.jpg

http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/The%20Yellow%20Peril/IMG_3708.jpg

http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/The%20Yellow%20Peril/IMG_3710.jpg

http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/The%20Yellow%20Peril/IMG_3713.jpg

i l k e r

08-06-2010, 18:33

hats off to you mate :agree: What a mission it's been to come this far, glad to hear it's finally road legal :cooter:

oh, and I know the pain about sourcing parts and waiting on for delivery when you're abroad, not cool :disagree:

keep up the good work pal :agree:

Woznaldo

11-06-2010, 09:58

Going for a drive tomorrow morning on the Great Ocean Road. It follows the Australian South coast from Melbourne to Adelaide. Lots of good corners so I'll be able to test the supension and handling!!!!!

I've adjusted my speedo needle so that i'm doing 98kph when the speedo reads 100kph.

Wallace

13-06-2010, 13:48

Woznaldo

14-06-2010, 20:57

Lovely bit of road that:D:agree:

Don't be shy with the pictures of the 5 and the apostles in the back ground!!

Do you know what, infact i'd fooking love to take the 5 along there - lucky *******:wasntme:

Enjoy:agree:

I did the drive over the weekend and had a blast but couldn't get any pictures with the Apostles in the background as yi can't get that near with a vehicle anymore.

The car ran well but there are a few issues I need to look at. The temp was sitting at the bottom of the top third or higher for alot of the drive and I wasn't pushing hard at all. The rear end is still rubbing (hence not pushing too hard) and a few big bumps have made the car pull to the right a bit?

Th fuel gauge only works just after I've filled up and is intermittent for quarter of a tank before dying altogether. That said, the fuel consumption was very good but on the occassional squeeze of the throttle, the AFR would creep up to 12.5-13.0, so I think I need to get into the 2nd Stage and take it out to 1.1mm?

My proper net is still down but I'll update these posts with a few pics as soon as it's up.

http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/The%20Yellow%20Peril/IMG_3658.jpg

http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/The%20Yellow%20Peril/IMG_3674.jpg

Woznaldo

17-06-2010, 14:00

A few new pics added.

Woznaldo

19-06-2010, 04:16

A few more little niggles to keep me on my toes. The car started to pull lightly to the right so I jacked up the front end for a look and found that my RH strut, top mount, spring locator had become displaced. The locator is my mod to allow my 2.5ID springs to sit on the std top mounts.

Here's the spring locator where it's dropped down the strut:
http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/The%20Yellow%20Peril/IMG_3716.jpg

Here's the locator on the LH strut where it should be:
http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/The%20Yellow%20Peril/IMG_3721.jpg

I'll have to pull the strut off and tack weld the locator back into position or a good Loctite might do the trick?

The other issue I noticed while the car was being jacked up, was a leak from the fuel pump! I thought it might just be a case of tweaking the pipe clamp but, on closer inspection, it looks like the plastic end of the pump is leaking :cry:.

Here's a vid of the fuel pump leak:
http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/The%20Yellow%20Peril/th_GTTFuelPumpLeak.jpg (http://s196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/The%20Yellow%20Peril/?action=view&current=GTTFuelPumpLeak.mp4)

Trevhib

19-06-2010, 12:06

Woznaldo

19-06-2010, 14:17

Woz, your rubbing problems, unless you are running spacers for some reason, appear to be entirely down to the profile of your tyres. They look too big.

On lowered GTTs with 15 Renault wheels on like yours, there's very rarely any problem with rubbing as long as the tyres are 195/45/15. Usually, even with 195/50 profile the rubbing is light and only occurs when the car is lowered.

When running a 195/50, there's a metal lip behind the arch moulding that should be taken out and maybe the inside of the moulding a tad but the wheel hitting the car in the places shown in the pics (and that much) seems very unusual.

What spec tyres do you have on?

I'm running 195/50/15 Bridgestone Potenza RE001s. I think that the car may just be too low and with no bump stops to limit the travel, the radius arm is swinging up past horizontal and the wheel starts to move fwd into the arch?

I think that bump stops would have masked the problem as they would have contacted rather than the arch. You can also see where the dampers are moving up so high that they are rubbing on the chassis rail seam.

I might give the Doris Bump Stop Mod a crack before adjusting the torsion bars? Thicker torsion bars would be the ultimate fix but, I haven't had my lucky numbers come up yet!

Trevhib

19-06-2010, 14:41

Ah right. Hmm, that's quite odd. By your description it sounds like you're looking in the right places then. Surely can only be bars or dampers as you say. The wheel moving forward on a GTT is normal as the suspension collapses.

Your car doesn't appear to be that low from the pics though, as it's sat on the tarmac (we've seen much lower with less/no problems). I'd say the travel is way too much if it's allowing that much movement.

Just a shot in the dark - Wasn't there someone on here ages ago that had the trailing arms on the wrong side and therefore upside down causing all manner of problems? One of them being too much suspension travel?

Otherwise, those dampers don't look like any I've seen before. Do you know their origin? Are they definitely designed for the GTT?

Btw, 195/45 would improve the car in a number of ways; handling, grip, appearance (and of course assist a little with the suspension/body clearance). I was surprised by the advantages when I changed mine.

Woznaldo

20-06-2010, 00:17

I know that 195/45/15s will improve matters but you can't get track rubber in that size, hence me wanting to get it all set up with the 50s,

As for the trailing arms being on the wrong side, I don't think they are as the handbrake cables exit in the right place and the rear calipers are the right way up?

The rear dampers are from Leda that I had made to order for the car a long time ago.

Trevhib

20-06-2010, 10:40

Ahh, good point, perhaps it was something else at the back, I don't know. There was definitely something going on though with another members rebuild with the rear setup that was to do with the rear beam somehow. Something fundamental was fitted back to front or upside down or something that could go on two different ways. I don't remember what exactly. All I do know is that it was allowing the rear suspension to collapse like yours, bringing the arms up too far and the wheels too far forward. Someone on here noticed it in a picture that had been posted at the time and the guy corrected it.

Does anyone else remember this that would care to help out here... :ashamed:

"you can't get track rubber in that size, hence me wanting to get it all set up with the 50s" :agree:

Andrew Cooke

20-06-2010, 12:16

Andrew Cooke

20-06-2010, 12:51

oh yeah, if you were thinking that a step from 21 - 23mm wasn't much, it's a d^4 thing, so they're ~44% stiffer

Woznaldo

20-06-2010, 12:57

I bet you can get better torsion bars made in Aus, you can buy them here, but they cost ££££.

http://www.renaultpower.com/?rS=parts&cid=109 (check out the diameters)

if you can get them made for sensible money I'll bet there would be a few takers over here.

I seem to remember you mentioning this a while back but, I couldn't find anything online? I'll probably have to make a few phone calls and actually speak to people!:coffee:

I did a bit of research on renaultsport parts in general and a lot of the old stock was bought by Olymeca in France'

http://www.olymeca-sport.fr/

Woznaldo

20-06-2010, 13:01

oh yeah, if you were thinking that a step from 21 - 23mm wasn't much, it's a d^4 thing, so they're ~44% stiffer

I bet that would make the backend lively! Just the way I like it. :devil:

Woznaldo

25-06-2010, 08:15

I have been asking around about custom made torsion bars and the Aussiefrogs website happen to be doing a group buy! The buy was set up for Peugeots but the company (don't know who it is?) will make any similar bar at up to 25mm thickness as that's the diameter of the stock bar.

The downside is the price. For a single set the RRP is A$1200!!!! but, with the group buy it will work out at A$700 a set. :( The Renaultpower sets work out at A$600 plus shipping so for me, it's about the same price.

I have found a different company myself but to get a quote I need to send them the specs or my TBs as a sample to take dimensions from.

http://www.rtoc.org/files/Miscellaneous/Form_Custom_Torsion_Bar.pdf

Woznaldo

29-06-2010, 22:53

Ordered a new Bosch fuel pump a couple of days ago, so should arrive sometime today. I was toying with the idea of fitting an 'uprated' pump but, haven't got the spare time at moment for experimentation.

I was getting lean AFR readings as the rpm climbed above 3500 that I didn't have before the pump leak. Once the pump is fitted, I'll go for a test run to re-establish an AFR baseline before making any adjustments.

Woznaldo

30-06-2010, 11:19

New pump arrived today in perfect condition. I'll get it fitted over the weekend, if not sooner.

http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/The%20Yellow%20Peril/IMG_3737.jpg

http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/The%20Yellow%20Peril/IMG_3741.jpg

Once it's fitted i'll get out and do some AFR runs.

Woznaldo

11-07-2010, 10:28

UPDATE:

I decided to raise the rear end a little as it was getting very annoying not be able to 'push on' in the twisties for fear of sudden bodywork contact and the detrimental effects on handling. Here's the before shot:
http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/The%20Yellow%20Peril/IMG_3751.jpg

Here's the after shot although the different distances make it hard to compare. Probably about 15mm higher now:
http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/The%20Yellow%20Peril/IMG_3761.jpg

I drove back to Sydney from Melbourne (850km) and only had contact a couple of times the entire 9hr journey and this was with all my bags and tools in the back. I think if I chuck the Doris rear damper bump stop mod on, I should be good to go.

I will service the carb this week as well as flush the cooling system (dish washer tablet method) and replace the water pump with a new reconditioned unit. Hoping the carb will be rid a couple of issues post rebuild. Time will tell?

Woznaldo

15-07-2010, 12:40

UPDATE

Serviced the carb and threw it back on but, haven't been out to check AFRs properly yet.

All nice and clean!
http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/The%20Yellow%20Peril/IMG_3779.jpg

Also put on a new (recon'd) water pump (thanks BriC) in an attempt to bring the temp gauge back to centre, as it has been hovering around the 11 o'clock area when at sustained boost on the motorway at 65-75mph. Mainly the uphill sections.

Old Water Pump and Gasket removed from Head
http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/The%20Yellow%20Peril/IMG_3774.jpg

New Water Pump fitted but, short belt FAIL.
http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/The%20Yellow%20Peril/IMG_3778.jpg

When I changed the water pump I thought I'd try to fit a shorter belt (1155) but, there was no way that was going on, however, a new std belt (1180) made things look a lot better anyway!

Woznaldo

17-07-2010, 04:13

The car wouldn't idle at all after the carb service and I kind of hijacked Jimmy's thread on Accel Pump Problems:

http://www.rtoc.org/boards/showthread.php?t=16756

Turned out to be the washer under the head of the Idle Jet screw head being perished. Always something simple!

I'll will now try to go out and get some AFRs for the current carb set-up to assess whether I need to make some adjustments.

Tomorrow I'll be heading into Sydney for the All French Car Day 2010 with my son to see how many people I can get excited about my 'very rare' GTT! :D

Woznaldo

19-07-2010, 13:17

I went to the All French Car Day in Sydney yesterday and was quite surprised by the interest the Yellow Peril received whilston display! It's no show pony but it seemed curiousity got the better of people.

It was the only GTT there but there were a few interesting cars there. A couple of GTAs, an A610, an R5 Turbo 2, R8 Gordini, an old school Alpine that has run in Targa Tasmania, a couple of RS Meggies and a few 172/182 Clio.

Photos below:

http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/The%20Yellow%20Peril/IMG_3789.jpg

http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/The%20Yellow%20Peril/IMG_3790.jpg

http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/The%20Yellow%20Peril/IMG_3794.jpg

http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/The%20Yellow%20Peril/IMG_3795.jpg

http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/The%20Yellow%20Peril/IMG_3797.jpg

http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/The%20Yellow%20Peril/IMG_3798.jpg

http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/The%20Yellow%20Peril/IMG_3807.jpg

http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/The%20Yellow%20Peril/IMG_3816.jpg

http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/The%20Yellow%20Peril/IMG_3812.jpg

http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/The%20Yellow%20Peril/IMG_3799.jpg

http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/The%20Yellow%20Peril/IMG_3806.jpg

Trevhib

19-07-2010, 19:12

Smart, you're on the scene finally :agree:

As for your suspension Woz, it's driving me crazy! Looking at how much you've lowered the car there's no way it should have needed raising to avoid what was happening. I've seen hundreds of GTTs lowered the same and more (and all my three were lower) where even with weight in the back, haven't behaved anything like what your pics show.

If the rear beam is correct, I can only assume there's a problem with your shocks/bars. If you're happy with it the way it is now though and it handles as good as it ought to, then I guess it's not worth worrying about. :)

Woznaldo

19-07-2010, 22:29

Thanks Trev, yes it's good to finally meet a few peeps in person.

Re the suspension, I'm going to measure the diameter of the torsion bars I've just got to make sure they're not Campus versions?!

In my first GTT I had 5 people in the car and drove to the German Beer Festival and back without a single issue?

I'm seriously thinking about turreting the rear and running a light assister spring to give me the choice of rear spring rates above STD. Winston had this set up on his 'holey 5'.

Trevhib

19-07-2010, 22:47

Woznaldo

20-07-2010, 04:21

Smart. :)

Will you be ok with the Aussie SVA/MOT standards people if you modify the rear suspension to that degree though? It would be rubbish to be doing a second iteration of that dreadful loop :scared:

Yes I would but, only in that area for that mod, all the rest would remain current, so not too bad.

Woznaldo

24-07-2010, 10:18

After a top day out at the All French Car Day in Sydney last Sunday, I went home to prepare for the drive south to Melbourne on the Monday. After setting off and getting just shy of Yass (3hrs into the journey), the car started to hesitate. I nursed the car to Yass services (carefully watching my AFR gauge!) to check what had happened.

On opening the bonnet, it was apparent that the idle mixture screw had vibrated itself free and fallen out! Knowing that a spare part may be 6000 miles away, I tried to fix up a bodge repair using some fuel hose squeezed over the idle mixture screw orifice, with a bolt clamped in the other end but, decided to have another hunt around the top of the intake manifold for said screw. To my amazement, I found the little blighter hiding under a bracket!!!

Mixture screw refitted, idle readjusted and fuel hose bodgey fitted over the top for extra security, I continued on my journey to Melbourne without any further incident. I still have a few tweaks to carry out on the carb to get it fuelling a bit better but, the car is performing well for now.

Kris M

24-07-2010, 12:45

Woznaldo

24-07-2010, 13:05

Woz, renault sell a little tamper proof bung that stops the mixture screw coming out :)

Some people use a small blob of silicone aswell ( not everones cup of tea though as it can be difficult to remove afterwards )

Thanks Kris, I hooked out the original when I did the carb service but, will have to get a new one soon.

Kris M

24-07-2010, 15:25

Ive got no problem ordering you one from Renault and posting it out to you mate if you want ?

Woznaldo

26-07-2010, 13:57

Pictures added to post #107 of the All French Car Day 2010.

Woznaldo

26-07-2010, 13:58

Ive got no problem ordering you one from Renault and posting it out to you mate if you want ?

Thanks for the offer Kris, I might take you up on that. :agree:

Woznaldo

28-07-2010, 12:39

As part of my master plan I'll be adding MegaSquirt EFI (MS1-Extra) but, to make things easier, I will fit the ECU and Ignition parts first while I mock up the Alliance Manifold and injection looms. This way I can run mappable ignition on it's own and play with the different settings until the EFI parts are ready.

The master plan took a step closer to completion today when I received my 36-1 Trigger Wheel Kit from Scoff (many thanks :agree:). A few picks of the kit and some other EFI/Ignition parts:

http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/EFI%20Related/IMG_3830.jpg

Ford EDIS4 (Electronic Distributorless Ignition System 4 cylinder varient) Controller & Coil Pack:

http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/EFI%20Related/IMG_3833.jpg

My MegaSquirt 1 running MS-Extra (12x12 tables) and the MS Stimulator (the 9v battery simulates the cars 12v battery as 9v is more than enough for the ECU to test different configurations):

http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/EFI%20Related/IMG_3834.jpg

I don't actually need this GM 3 Bar Map Sensor for the EFI set up as my MegaSquirt ECU is fitted with it's own 400KPa Map Sensor (means I can map for 38psi) but, I'm going to use it for data logging with the LM1 until the ECU is up and running.

http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/EFI%20Related/IMG_3837.jpg

Wallace

28-07-2010, 13:21

Pictures added to post #107 of the All French Car Day 2010.

Some lovely looking motors there:agree:

Where in Sydney was that? - is it held every year?

May have to arrange a trip to my brothers around this event:smokin:

Woznaldo

28-07-2010, 21:19

It's held every year around the same time (mid july) and for the last couple of years has been held at Silverwater Park in Silverwater, Sydney. It's a fairly small show, especially by UK standards but, still enjoyable all the same.

It's normally advertised through the Aussiefrogs website www.aussiefrogs.com

Wallace

28-07-2010, 22:24

Cheers for that:agree:

Shame i'll probably miss it, planning on a mid March visit due to my work and his, but you never know!

Woznaldo

08-11-2010, 09:35

A small update (and I do mean small!)

I've fitted the "Scoff 36-1 Trigger Wheel VR Sensor and Mounting Bracket". Just bolted it on and put my sensor loom roughly up to my relay board. Just a couple of pics:

http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/The%20Yellow%20Peril/IMG_3924.jpg

http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/The%20Yellow%20Peril/IMG_3925.jpg

Also roughly laid the trigger wheel on my spare crank pulley to see where I could tack weld them together.

http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/The%20Yellow%20Peril/IMG_3930.jpg

A small tack in the inside of each of the five windows would be more than enough to hold them together and shouldn't upset the balance.

Woznaldo

05-08-2011, 07:55

UPDATE

I've been very busy at work and haven't had a lot of time to get much done but, over the couple of days I've slowly started piecing some EFI bits together. The Alliance Manifold that I have looked a bit small for my needs and after looking at the Valver Throttle Body in Harri's project thread, I decided to go down that route.

Old Throttle Body
http://www.rtoc.org/boards/picture.php?albumid=167&pictureid=1255
New Throttle Body
http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/The%20Yellow%20Peril/IMG_1107.jpg
Area on Alliance Manifold that needs to be opened up
http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/The%20Yellow%20Peril/IMG_1099.jpg
Throttle Body mounting face after milling action. Still needs to be finished off as we did the milling freehand and left some meat there for finishing purposes.
http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/The%20Yellow%20Peril/IMG_1111.jpg

The Alliance Manifold studs were a little bit short for the Valver Throttle Body so I had to get some longer ones (5mm longer).

Woznaldo

05-08-2011, 12:16

Still got a fair bit to do:

-Make up loom from Megasquirt ECU to Relay Board
-Make up loom from Relay Board to Engine
-Acquire decent FPR and mount to Fuel Rail
-Buy some injectors (looking at 'Green Giants' 0280 155 968)
-Make/adapt some HT leads
-Mount Coil Pack
-Weld Crank Pulley to Boss and Trigger Wheel to Crank Pulley

Obvious choices for FPRs are Turbosmart or SARD but what are Tomei like?

Logg

05-08-2011, 14:47

Good going fella. :agree::agree:

Woznaldo

27-08-2011, 10:40

Today I managed to pick up a fire damaged RS Clio 172 for a song. The owner had a tank slapper and ended up going into a tree! The top of the engine is pretty much scrap but everything below the head looks usable.

What I think I can salvage from the suspension:

-Hubs
-Discs
-Calipers
-Driveshafts
-Wishbones
-Anti-Roll Bar (although completely unusable on a 5 due to the kink in it)

The rear end is perfect, including near new rear discs. I know the rear beam won't bolt straight up but, I'm going to have a look at what's involved.

Not sure how I will mount the right hand driveshaft as it has the inboard bearing support that bolts to the 172 block.

The track on the 172 is 1430mm compared to the std GTT 1323mm so, 53.2mm extra track per side. That's going to need some kind of arch extension to cover the wheels up and I'm not keen on buying anything off the shelf just yet. I'm going to have a play with making my own carbon/GRP efforts after using clay as a design tool. (Note that this is a very slow project so don't expect much until at least next year!)

I going to strip off anything else off the 172 to flog on to make a bit of cash to inject into my project for the EFI parts I need.

I'll add some pics of the 172 soon. (not that it's a looker anymore :()

markey b

27-08-2011, 12:30

Woz, renault sell a little tamper proof bung that stops the mixture screw coming out :)

Some people use a small blob of silicone aswell ( not everones cup of tea though as it can be difficult to remove afterwards )

i use a chewed up rizla.... poke it in the hole and it makes a semi permanant cap that can be removed if needed ;)

Harri

27-08-2011, 16:13

Woznaldo

28-08-2011, 11:41

I would like to make a bolt on adaptor so I don't need to modify the Throttle Body but it will have to seal well and hold boost pressure. What are the adaptors like that come with some of these induction kits for the Clio 16v?

Harri

28-08-2011, 18:23

I have green cotton filter in my clio, so I can check when I have time. I think it was just rubber seal and the filter was then tightened with hose clamp.

Harri

02-09-2011, 14:15

I have green cotton filter in my clio, so I can check when I have time. I think it was just rubber seal and the filter was then tightened with hose clamp.

Check out the pictures, if you are planning on having 10 inch boost pipes then you could use the green cotton filter adapter :cool: Actually I didn't check if the black adaptor part is steel or not. You could cut some extra off and maybe weld proper sized piping there?

Woznaldo

03-09-2011, 12:24

Many thanks Harri!

I going to have a go at making my own adaptor. I just need to employ some TIG welding expertise! Just so happens, I know just the man....

Woznaldo

12-01-2012, 12:38

UPDATE 2012!

I haven't had too much time during the last year to get any EFI work done, so I thought I'd take the opportunity over the Christmas break to make some inroads.

I needed to open up a hole in the bulkhead to pass the MegaSquirt ECU loom through to connect with the new MegaSquirt Relay Board.
http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/EFI%20Related/IMG_1558.jpg

Once a trial run was conducted to get the correct loom length, I held my breath and cut off the excess
http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/EFI%20Related/IMG_1563.jpg

Once the loom was through I then had to solder on the DB37 Plug to the Relay Board end of the loom. This needs a Multimeter to confirm that you have the correct wire going to the correct pin.
http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/EFI%20Related/IMG_1562.jpg

A slow process but, one worth taking your time on.
http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/EFI%20Related/IMG_1561.jpg
http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/EFI%20Related/IMG_1564.jpg

I've also made a start on the EFI Engine Loom but won't be able to finish until I've got the manifold in place for the best fitment.
http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/EFI%20Related/IMG_1555.jpg

While the dash was out I decided to get rid of some more excess weight!
http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/EFI%20Related/IMG_1532.jpg
http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/EFI%20Related/IMG_1536.jpg
http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/EFI%20Related/IMG_1537.jpg

As some of the more astute people will have noticed, the dash removal didn't quite go to plan, with all three top mount bars snapping off and staying in their respective bulkhead clips! (second dash picture). This means a few repairs will be needed before I can put the dash back in....

I still need a few bits and pieces but at least the ball is rolling. I'm back to work on Monday and I'm pretty sure that I'll be using the Pedal Pusher for a little while!!!

More to follow as I progress. :)

Woznaldo

13-01-2012, 07:27

OK, did a bit more today and finally got the loom all done, bar the final tidying.

Here's the EFI Loom hooked up to the Relay Board. I trimmed the wires to different lengths so that the loom naturally lays to the right and doesn't strain the wires and plug pins.
http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/EFI%20Related/IMG_1585.jpghttp://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/EFI%20Related/IMG_1584.jpg

Next I pulled off the Carb and Intake Manifold to trial fit the Alliance Manifold. I have to admit that it looks like it was meant to be there!
http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/EFI%20Related/IMG_1631.jpghttp://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/EFI%20Related/IMG_1627.jpghttp://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/EFI%20Related/IMG_1629.jpg

The only issues that I can see so far are that the lower half of the Alliance Manifold has what looks like some kind of 'heat exchanger' that would have been used with the original Exhaust Manifold and I'll have to incorporate an IAT Sensor somewhere.

Here's the lower half of the Alliance Manifold casting.
http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/EFI%20Related/IMG_1617.jpg
http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/EFI%20Related/IMG_1618.jpg
http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/EFI%20Related/IMG_1623.jpg

I was worried that there may be contact with my O2 Sensor but even that is all sweet! The MAP Sensor vacuum take off and the Brake Servo take off can also be seen.
http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/EFI%20Related/IMG_1630.jpg

Like I said in my previous post, I still need a few bits and pieces (see below):

-Injectors (prefer Green Giants (0280 155 968) but will be happy with Red Tops (0280 150 341))
-Fuel Pressure Regulator (Tomei is looking like the best quality/value compromise)
-IAT Sensor (open element GM type with a metric thread would be best)
-Throttle Cable Mount Plate (I'll make my own)
-HT Leads (There are a few companies that either make up custom leads or supply the plugs to do your own)
-Connecting Boost Pipe (to throttle body)
-ECU Mounting Plate (I was thinking about mounting it in the Stereo slot...)

I'm really happy with the recent progress and will hopefully be in a position soon to fire it up on EFI!! :devil:

Woznaldo

13-01-2012, 09:49

Before I pulled the car apart, I was experiencing a little loss of power. While pulling the Carb Elbow off, I found out why.....
http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/The%20Yellow%20Peril/IMG_1587.jpg
http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/The%20Yellow%20Peril/IMG_1588.jpg
All becomes clear!

Harri

13-01-2012, 15:51

-Injectors (prefer Green Giants (0280 155 968) but will be happy with Red Tops (0280 150 341))

Good idea, I've also been looking for upgrade to my Bosch 360CC redtops after changing the fuel to ethanol. 440CC should be quite ok for my needs.

Intake manifold really looks like it was meant to be there OE.

Woznaldo

20-01-2012, 06:39

I've been having a crack at making a Throttle Cable Linkage (for the cable conduit to push against), something I had forgotten all about :ashamed: I might be able to combine the boost hose adaptor but not sure? Open to suggestions.

I made it out of 7075 T6 that I had some offcuts of at work. Not Finished yet but a start. This is the plate with a couple of angles out on to it for stiffness.
http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/EFI%20Related/IMG_1644.jpg

This is the plate sitting on the Throttle Body
http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/EFI%20Related/IMG_1641.jpg

Here you can get an idea of where the cable will run
http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/EFI%20Related/IMG_1642.jpg

The throttle cable will run through a hole somewhere in the corner with the aid of a few bicycle brake parts
http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/EFI%20Related/IMG_1646.jpg

I'll get some more pics up as it progresses. :D

Woznaldo

20-01-2012, 08:32

I also finally got around tacking the Crank Pulley Boss to the Crank Pulley in preparation for fitting the Scoff 36-1 Trigger Wheel
http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/015e6e0c.jpg
http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/16e0786a.jpg

I'll get the trigger wheel aligned once I have No.1 piston at TDC.

Os8472

20-01-2012, 19:51

Little tip fella, with no.1 at tdc the woodrough key way should be pointing straight up

Woznaldo

21-01-2012, 03:29

Little tip fella, with no.1 at tdc the woodrough key way should be pointing straight up

Thanks Olly, at least that will put me in the right ball park. :)

Harri

21-01-2012, 05:05

I've been having a crack at making a Throttle Cable Linkage (for the cable conduit to push against), something I had forgotten all about :ashamed: I might be able to combine the boost hose adaptor but not sure? Open to suggestions.

I made it out of 7075 T6 that I had some offcuts of at work. Not Finished yet but a start. This is the plate with a couple of angles out on to it for stiffness.

This is the plate sitting on the Throttle Body

Here you can get an idea of where the cable will run

The throttle cable will run through a hole somewhere in the corner with the aid of a few bicycle brake parts

I'll get some more pics up as it progresses. :D

Looking good and bit familiar. Did you figure out the wiring for the TPS?

Woznaldo

21-01-2012, 06:04

Harri, Scoff gave me a lesson on how to find which wire is what on the TPS, so I've got it sorted. ;)

What I need to finish the throttle body cable plate/boost pipe adaptor is some 7075 (non T6) tube reducer that I can play around with and then do the heat treatment.

Woznaldo

29-01-2012, 22:50

As mentioned in an earlier post, my Dashboard requires a few repairs and as I was stuck at work over the weekend, I thought I'd get cracking.

Here's the underside of the fwd edge of the Dash with the three fwd mounting bars. I've rested the LH bar on what's left of the original plastic bracket.
http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/The%20Yellow%20Peril/IMG_1654.jpg

You can see in this pic where the mounting bar has failed. The aluminium plates are actually from a previous repair.
http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/The%20Yellow%20Peril/IMG_1655.jpg

Here's what I ended up making, although it needs tidying up a fair bit.
http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/The%20Yellow%20Peril/IMG_1663.jpg

Here's the new bracket sitting in position.
http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/The%20Yellow%20Peril/IMG_1657.jpg

The centre mount is a bit different and I think I'll need to change the design and remove some more of the original dash to get the width I need.
http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/The%20Yellow%20Peril/IMG_1658.jpg

http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/The%20Yellow%20Peril/IMG_1661.jpg

Obviously I've taken a few measurements during this process and I'm probably going to have a go at making my own carbon dash sometime in the future.:)

Harri

30-01-2012, 05:07

Obviously I've taken a few measurements during this process and I'm probably going to have a go at making my own carbon dash sometime in the future.:)

Yes, you should. What kind of finish are you aiming at? matt? polished?

Woznaldo

30-01-2012, 09:32

I haven't thought that far forward yet! I'd probably try one in aluminium first and then make a mould from that?

Woznaldo

07-03-2012, 10:08

UPDATE

OK, I've done a little bit more with the EFI install, mainly ignition related. I decided to whip something together out of stainless steel to mount the Ford EDIS Coil Pack. Whip is a bit of an understatement as I rushed it and it's a bit rough around the edges. Functional none the less.

http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/EFI%20Related/IMG_1766.jpg

Next task was to make up some HT Leads that would connect to the original Spark Plugs and the Ford EDIS Coil Pack. I bought a kit off eBay from a guy called Nige who is one of the nicest people I've dealt with period. Here's his website.

http://www.megasquirt-v8.co.uk/index.php

The kit was supplied with 3m of Carbon Core Silicon HT Cable (I paid extra for 5m), the connectors to be crimped to the ends and the rubber boots including the special EDIS Coil Pack type. Here's a pic:

http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/EFI%20Related/IMG_1778.jpg

The kit was supplied with blue HT cable but I wanted a colour the better suited to the car so got another 5m of HT Cable in black and yellow but with a copper core. The finished HT lead looks like this:

http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/EFI%20Related/IMG_1794.jpg

Here's a couple of pics with the new HT Leads hooked up to the EDIS Coil Pack on it's new mounting bracket. Doesn't look the best as there are a load of other pipes and wires that are still disconnected but, you get the idea.

http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/EFI%20Related/IMG_1795.jpg

http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/EFI%20Related/IMG_1796.jpg

http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/EFI%20Related/IMG_1797.jpg

Overall I'm very please with the result but, the proof is in the pudding so let's hope it all works when it's time to fire it up!

Tony Walker

07-03-2012, 18:58

Looks great :D i think im going to be collecting my EFI parts soon.

Woznaldo

10-04-2012, 13:49

UPDATE

Not too much to report at the moment other than a couple of purchases I've made and trying to make the EFI installation a bit neater.

Finally got an FPR. Wanted something decent but wasn't prepared to pay the prices for them. Finally saw an Aeromotive A1000 come up on eBay Motors and got it for a reasonable amount, complete with pressure gauge.

http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/EFI%20Related/IMG_1969.jpg

Also tried to tidy up the EFI Looms that pass into the engine bay. The problem I had was the size of the plugs are quite large and therefore (without de-pinning the plugs) the holes passing through the bulkhead had to be quite large (38mm dia). One solution was to use something from 'Seals-it' http://www.sealsit.com/firewall.asp but the prices are quite steep (50-70 quid!).

What I went with in the end was some large blank grommets which where a couple of quid each and punch a hole to match the dia of the loom. I will then make a slit from the centre to the edge.

Here's a few pics of the bulkhead being drilled and the grommet blanks before punching any holes in them.

This is where the main Engine EFI Loom will pass through:
http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/EFI%20Related/IMG_1956.jpg

This is where the O2 Sensor and Coil Pack Looms will pass through:
http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/EFI%20Related/IMG_1960.jpg
http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/EFI%20Related/IMG_1961.jpg
http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/EFI%20Related/IMG_1964.jpg

These are the O2 Sensor and Coil Pack Plugs:
http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/EFI%20Related/IMG_1967.jpg

Still have a bit to do, like sorting the throttle cable and the boost pipe run but, getting there slowly. :)

Harri

11-04-2012, 06:34

Look good, its getting there but one quick question, why did you decide to use adjustable FPR?

Woznaldo

11-04-2012, 07:51

Look good, its getting there but one quick question, why did you decide to use adjustable FPR?

Two reasons really, one to ensure that the pressure is set to where I want it and two, to give me the option to play with the pressure as a tuning option in the future (probably won't ever need it).

Woznaldo

29-04-2012, 12:10

UPDATE

I finally got the Dash Brackets finished and after all my planned bulkhead hole had been drilled, I put the Dash back in. Here's a couple of pics of the finished brackets:

All lined up an resin applied.
http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/The%20Yellow%20Peril/IMG_2033.jpg

Brackets after the resin has set.
http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/The%20Yellow%20Peril/IMG_2038.jpg

http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/The%20Yellow%20Peril/IMG_2039.jpg

http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/The%20Yellow%20Peril/IMG_2040.jpg

The dash dropped into place with no problems and should be a bit more resilient.

I've got my annual road worthy inspection coming up at the end of the month and the EFI won't be ready (waiting on parts) so I'll put the Carb back on but run the MegaSquirt ECU for ignition only as all the wiring is just about finished.

Woznaldo

29-04-2012, 12:34

My Leda Struts had been getting a bit too stiff before I took the car off the road for the EFI conversion, so I decided to pull them apart for a rebuild. After speaking with Roger at Leda he advised me that I would need to make a tool to remove the Top Gland Nut.

Here's the tool:

http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/The%20Yellow%20Peril/IMG_2006.jpg

Once apart the reason for the stiffness was apparent! The Damper Piston Band was destroyed.

http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/The%20Yellow%20Peril/IMG_2015.jpg

I've had these struts since '95 and the design has been superseded now so I'll have to replace a heap of parts that have nothing wrong with them, which sucks! :( Still cheaper than replacements.

Woznaldo

31-05-2012, 11:42

I started whipping up a Centre Console that I could mount the Megasquirt ECU to. I need to tirm the top so it tucks under the dash and can be secure properly. Here's a couple of pics:
http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/The%20Yellow%20Peril/IMG_2066.jpg

http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/The%20Yellow%20Peril/IMG_2068.jpg

I've also been making slow progress with the Leda Strut rebuild, mainly because work has taking up all my time. Roger at Leda has been an absolute legend with advice and parts, even sending some parts to me before he had my payment to make my timeline!

I can't wait to get the struts back on now as it will be now like driving a new car! That said, I haven't touched the rear dampers yet.

Woznaldo

31-05-2012, 12:27

Here's a few pics of the Leda Strut rebuild:

The rebuild parts.
http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/The%20Yellow%20Peril/IMG_2111.jpg

The Piston Rod Assembly dismantled.
http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/The%20Yellow%20Peril/IMG_2109.jpg

The Piston.
http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/The%20Yellow%20Peril/IMG_2110.jpg

The Foot Valve dismantled.
http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/The%20Yellow%20Peril/IMG_2113-1.jpg

One of the Foot Valve Springs. It should be absolutely clean....
http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/The%20Yellow%20Peril/IMG_2117.jpg

The holes in the Piston together with the holes, springs and shims in the Foot Valve are what set the damping specs.

Just waiting for a few more bits and the assembly will start.

Os8472

31-05-2012, 12:29

Good progress there fella, well done :agree:

Coops

31-05-2012, 13:42

loving the leda strip down

also happy that your have been about since 1995 and only just getting rebuilt as I have ledas to pop onto mine soon, hopefully they'll pull a good 15 years of use too :cool:

Woznaldo

03-10-2012, 00:03

Small update:

I have been busy with work and my recent Jag acquisition (see other marques) and have been slowed by various issues with my Leda Struts. Roger from Leda has been fantastic but, because the company has change hands a few times since I originally bought my Struts.

The main issues have been design changes that have been superseded and inexperience on my part when stripping the struts down enough to ensure they are ABSOLUTELY clean. Any dirt or debris could get lodged under one of the Valve Shims and reduce or remove some of the damping effect.

I've rebuilt and pulled the Struts apart again twice now and one of them still isn't working as it should. The adjuster is only making the Rebound harder and not both Bump and Rebound as it is on the other Strut. I've also broken my home made Gland Nut Tool and now have to repair before I can continue!

I did find some time recently to finally fit and adjust my 'Scoff EFI-Parts' Trigger Wheel and adjust it for my Megasquirt Extra with EDIS set-up. I pulled the #1 Spark Plug out and inserted a non-metalic stick, which turned out to be a chop stick, as I don't have an extension rod for my DTI.

Anyway, got the DTI all set up, with chop stick (complete with countersunk hole for positive location) and turned the Crank until I got TDC. I then 'locked' the Flywheel in position and re-checked the DTI.

http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/EFI%20Related/IMG_2332_zpsfc8d4d1a.jpg

I then had to rotate the Trigger Wheel through 90 degrees so the missing tooth was ahead of TDC by 9 teeth (missing tooth being zero). Finally the Crank Pulley Bolt was torqued to 110Nm. I then un-locked the Flywheel and re-set TDC using the DTI set-up. The result showed that the Trigger Wheel is about half a tooth out but I will double check it with a timing light when the engine is running.

http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/EFI%20Related/IMG_2333_zpsb007f072.jpg

Just waiting for the Struts to be completed and I can finally take the car off Axle Stands and fire her up!

Tony Walker

03-10-2012, 07:57

Great read, ans some really usefull info on the struts :)

Woznaldo

03-10-2012, 14:47

Great read, ans some really usefull info on the struts :)

Tony, I've been taking lots of pictures during the rebuild that I will post once I have both Struts up and running, just to make sure I don't give anyone duff info.

Tony Walker

03-10-2012, 15:56

thats great its allways going to be a minefield of different aged components, my coilovers are gaz but the principle/main components should be reletively similiar.

Woznaldo

01-11-2012, 09:35

I've done some mods to my front Wishbone to increase castor from advice given in this thread:

http://www.rtoc.org/boards/showthread.php?p=298621#post298621

Woznaldo

04-01-2013, 12:44

Small Update:

I've added the Cylinder Head End Plate from a Renault Alliance (got it when I bought the manifold) but, I had to remove some material to get clearance from the Exhaust Manifold. Here's the End Plate fitted together with it's CLT Sensor (little one) and CLT Switch (big one). I had to use two crush washers under the CLT Switch as it was hitting something in the head. Must be a slightly different casting to the Alliance Heads?

http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/EFI%20Related/IMG_2557_zps9befa7ac.jpg

In this one you can see the clearance between the End Plate and the Exhaust Manifold.

http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/EFI%20Related/IMG_2560_zps7300c9ff.jpg

In hind sight, I would have been better off welding a nut to the original End Plate as it's a lot easier to install. The casting webs make the Alliance one a right pain.

I'm still having some running issues with my Megasuirt 1 (MS1) ECU running ignition only. It idles fine but isn't responding to quick rev throttle inputs but, already raised a thread on that so won't mention it anymore again here until it's sorted.

Still working on the Struts but, hope to have them up and running soon.

Trevhib

04-01-2013, 13:09

CLT - coolant temp?

If so, why move away from the standard GTT setup Woz?

Woznaldo

04-01-2013, 22:10

I've never really trusted the standard CLT (coolant temp) Sensor and I've measured the resistance at three different temps on this one so that the ECU, and therefore tuning software, will have a more accurate temp reading.

I might need to make up a little heat shield if I'm getting any heat soak from the Exhaust Manifold but, time will tell.

I'll still use the standard CLT Sensor to run the temp gauge as it's just easier to do that.

Trevhib

05-01-2013, 12:52

Interesting :) :agree:

Woznaldo

12-01-2013, 14:06

UPDATE:

I've been doing a little more with the Leda Struts in an attempt to get them both up and running again. With some advice from Roger at Leda, I think the problem with 'no adjustment in bump' is related to fluid getting past the Foot Valve (FV). Here's a picture of the FV assembled with the new style Pin that uses a nyloc nut instead of being peened over a washer.

http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/IMG_2567_zps46be55d1.jpg

This is the FV stripped down again for inspection:

http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/IMG_2565_zps79429bb4.jpg

It would seem that the problem is the seal between the Hex Head of the Pin and the chamfer in the base of the FV:

http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/IMG_0435_zps79be952e.jpg

In this shot you can see a slight gap between the Hex Head and the Chamfer Seal of the FV:

http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/IMG_0443_zpsbc6eb1ba.jpg

The solution would be to machine a flat on top of the chamfer by gently removing a little material and/or using a Shim Steel Washer under the Hex Head to assist it sealing on top of the chamfer.

I'm trying to locate a suitable Shim Steel Washer and would need a 1/4" x 9/16" in .006"-.018" thickness. I would probably by 10 of them but, it's hard to buy in such small quantities.

Hopefully this will solve the 'bump adjustment' issue and have me back on the road soon. :coffee:

Woznaldo

30-01-2013, 11:40

Finally found some Shim Steel Washers in an assortment pack from eBay UK and I have fitted the washer to the Foot Valve. The Strut has been assembled and tested and I am pleased to inform you that the problem had been resolved!!!!

Here's a pic of the Shim Steel Washer fitted to the Foot Valve:

http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/IMG_2652_zps4365f40e.jpg

I can now throw the Struts back on the car and get her back on the road! :D

Trevhib

30-01-2013, 11:45

:agree:

Woznaldo

05-02-2013, 09:22

Just when you think you're on a roll, fate smashes you in the teeth! Found some corrosion at the front of the LH Sill just behind the front wheel.

http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/The%20Yellow%20Peril/IMG_2700_zpsabc5b532.jpg

Started tapping away, then went to town with my little Dremal.

http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/The%20Yellow%20Peril/IMG_2707_zps9637709b.jpg

The main structural jacking point seems intact so not as bad as it could have been. The rest of the Sill is solid.

http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/The%20Yellow%20Peril/IMG_2705_zpsd081a663.jpg

I still need to keep peeling it back to get to some decent metal to weld to.....:crap:

Woznaldo

07-02-2013, 09:31

I have a Video Boroscope at work that I borrowed to have a look inside the Sill. Unfortunately, it was not good news. :(

It seems like the vertical skin inside the Sill has several areas of corrosion along its entire length! The only repair available to me is to remove the old Sill, remove the inner vertical skin and replace both.

The good new is that the other Sill is completely corrosion free. :)

I think I need to give Mike a call........

Woznaldo

04-08-2013, 09:29

It's been a while, but I had to get some parts from UK and the shipping was going to hurt. I had to return to UK for a family funeral and thought I might as well use the baggage allowance to get the parts back.

A big thanks to Mike for his friendly service. He every part I needed. Also, I must pass thanks to rich R5 for selling me his Williams Front Anti-Roll Bar, this means I'm getting close to having all parts need for my Widetrack conversion.

Here's the parts all wrapped up, safely home in Oz.

http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/The%20Yellow%20Peril/IMG_3189_zps7c0a140f.jpg (http://s196.photobucket.com/user/woznaldo/media/The%20Yellow%20Peril/IMG_3189_zps7c0a140f.jpg.html)

I haven't got my own welder and even if I did, it's been far too long since I used those 'skills' and would like to risk fluffing it up. So with that in mind I have handed over the task to a guy who has done some work for me before. I don't think it will be that cheap but at least it will be done properly. I dropped the car off at his place earlier today so he can chip away it over the next few weeks.

Benjibrady

04-08-2013, 11:12

The yellow peril is a feat of engineering brilliance, a credit to yourself. :agree:

Woznaldo

07-12-2013, 11:44

UPDATE:

A little while ago I took the car round to a friend for a spot of welding to get the new Sill and Jack Pad thrown on. He did a great job, but only coating it with some anti-rust compound and primer. So, it was left to me to get the colour back on!

This is how I got the car back.
http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/The%20Yellow%20Peril/IMG_3403_zps29f6f0b5.jpg

I refitted the door cleaned everything up and then masked it all.
http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/The%20Yellow%20Peril/IMG_3480_zpsb53c26ca.jpg

I threw down a few coats of Golden Wattle let it set then removed the masking. Not bad for a rattle can job!
http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/The%20Yellow%20Peril/IMG_3484_zps4dc9bfae.jpg

The Sill Extension was cracked and the attachment lugs had napped of in a few places so I did a bit of a repair and gave that a lick of paint too.
http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/The%20Yellow%20Peril/GTTSillExtRepair_zpsc06178de.jpg

Bracket repair
http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/The%20Yellow%20Peril/IMG_3443_zps89e636f7.jpg

Lastly was the Rear Arch Extension. The nuts were seized to the studs and just span out of the GRP. A stole an idea I saw on here a few years back using Nylon Nut and Bolt sets to replace the originals. Strong enough for the job and no more corrosion!
http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/The%20Yellow%20Peril/IMG_3445_zpsa76eca4a.jpg

All in all, I pretty happy with the result.

Ran the car through the it's Roadworthy Inspection on Thursday and she flew though, so she's back on the road again!:burnrubber:

Woznaldo

07-12-2013, 11:59

Oh, forgot to mention that I did the Castor Mod to my Front Wishbones, but I didn't know what it would look like until I refitted the Front Bumper. It gets close, but doesn't quite touch! ;)

http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/The%20Yellow%20Peril/IMG_3518_zps84bbfdc6.jpg

http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/The%20Yellow%20Peril/IMG_3517_zps9aadc410.jpg

I have to say that I don't really like the look, but I'm hoping for some epic turn in!

Trevhib

07-12-2013, 12:57

Nicely done sir :)

Woznaldo

08-12-2013, 03:03

I just to the car to a local tyre place to have the alignment checked after the Caster Mods (re-drilling the outboard ball joint attachment hole), but he didn't really understand what I was trying to tell him.

http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/The%20Yellow%20Peril/C44F4A11-6290-4E3A-9E66-E2C97FA59DBA_zpstxlahumn.jpg

We got there(ish) in the end and the figures I have now are as follows:

Front Toe: Zero
Front Camber: LH -2.95, RH -2.90
Front Caster: ??? don't know as he couldn't measure it...

With the extra Caster (I'm going to guess at between 4 and 5 degrees?) -3 Deg Camber is probably a bit excessive!! I've got a track day of sorts on Wednesday (12 Dec 13) so I'll leave it for now.

I did go for a blast before any adjustments and there was a marked improvement to the front end grip, especially during initial turn in. That was with -1 Deg Camber and zero Toe!

I'll let everyone know how it goes on track, but will reduce the Camber to -2 after. Will probably go for 1mm of Toe out too.

Thanks for reading. :D

Woznaldo

08-12-2013, 04:17

And just because I can....
http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/The%20Yellow%20Peril/E04641A4-0A86-4EE4-A198-0D2A940A8A9D_zps5qbaak6u.jpg

kial

10-12-2013, 20:23

Lovely job buddy. Keep up the work

TNT ANDY

10-12-2013, 20:55

http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/The%20Yellow%20Peril/IMG_3484_zps4dc9bfae.jpg

I see you're adopting my spraying techniques Dave - I've done my passenger door and rear quarter just like that :agree:

Jking aside - looking good.

Woznaldo

11-12-2013, 08:47

Thanks for all the comments guys. :D

I've just got back got from a Track Day that I had at work. I wasn't sure how much of a difference the extra Caster would make, but I very pleased to say that it is a massive improvement! The front end grip was epic!

Turn in was vastly improved and the balance between was front and rear was spot on!

The day consisted of a series of different sprints which you queued up for (under a minute) and then hit at pace. The first was quite tight and then opened up a little towards the end. During this I could feel the front end just digging in and the back becoming mobile during lift off.

The Aussies seemed to quite like my little 'upturned skip' and all commented on how well it 'looked like' it handled.

I'm probably only running 15psi and 150bhp, but was still able to stay ahead of a RWD Skyline GTS with 400bhp, an HSV Commodore (like a Vauxhall Charlton with a big V8) running a Twin Turbo set up and 500bhp. I wasn't the fastest though. A mate had a S2 Lotus Exige that was a second quicker on the tight course, but about 5 secs quicker on a more open course later in the day.

I also got a chance to give the Exige a blast and have to say that it was EPIC! Cost too much in Aus though.

I'll try to get some pics up in the next few days.

P.s. who's Dave?

Woznaldo

19-09-2014, 12:54

Well, not too much to add at this point other than a brake upgrade I'm doing as there were more options for the larger Discs.

I've just gone for the 259mm Disc setup as used on R19 and Clio1 Valvers, except I got my Calipers from a Clio2 1.4 16v. I've got all the bits together and just giving the Calipers and Carriers a spray first then I'll throw it all together. So, the bits I've used are:

Clio2 1.4 16v Calipers and Carriers
DBA2352S 259mm Discs (the S on the end means they're slotted)
Ferodo DS2500 Pads (FCP845H)

I'll throw it all on over the next few days and get some pics up.

I still plan on doing my widetrack conversion, but I'm still getting parts together. Specifically I'm going to need a Williams Clio Steering Rack and Williams/Valver Rear Beam. Once all the bits are here I'll change over to the 280mm Disc setup as I'll be running 172 Hubs.

Woznaldo

21-09-2014, 07:43

Here's a pic of the newly sprayed Calipers and Carriers for the 259mm Discs:

http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/The%20Yellow%20Peril/BF27FBCD-6E45-48AA-AFD2-2F5CFCBDFF1E_zpstawfptpj.jpg

I need to give the Pentagon Bolts a little refresh with some black paint, but then I'll be able to put them on.

JP Racing

21-09-2014, 10:33

Just had a quick read through this thread :) there is some good info and work going on here ;) keep up the good work and it looks good.

I bet there aren't many gtts in Australia something a bit different :D

Woznaldo

21-09-2014, 10:49

There are a few knocking about and there's one for sale at the moment too! Probably about 10-15 max, if that. I know of at least five.

Jeff Ninebar

21-09-2014, 10:51

calipers look great, nice work!

Trevhib

21-09-2014, 15:59

It's thinking man's GTT this car. :agree:

Woznaldo

23-09-2014, 12:13

It's thinking man's GTT this car. :agree:

I think this car is trying my patience! Started to pull the old brakes off and found out that the LH Front Wheel Bearing is shot! I have had a few suspension knocks and have been trying to track them down, but wasn't expecting this!

I've been trying to find a replacement bearing in Aus, but of course it is proving a lot harder than anticipated! I tried a few bearing suppliers, but none could give me what I wanted. :mad:

I have since done a bit more net surfing and think I might be in with a chance, so will be heading back out tomorrow to see if things go my way!? If I can't pull it off soon I'll miss taking my GTT to a track day on Friday. Not a total loss as I'll just take my '98 WRX, but still not my preferred choice!

Here's hoping........

Woznaldo

24-09-2014, 11:16

Here's one side (RHS) of the new brakes fitted to the car. I done a bit more of write up in the 'Cheap Brake Conversion' thread in the tech section so I won't go into detail here.

http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/The%20Yellow%20Peril/2EAB127E-6D8A-4EF8-A0A4-E24F1A19B454_zpscyrgxjwh.jpg

http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/The%20Yellow%20Peril/FCB7A863-2CC1-46F3-A821-45D3071B53B7_zps4wcxaakp.jpg

Road test to follow once bearing is replaced and brakes bled.

I also noticed that the Front Anti-Roll Bar Clamp (the big heavy thing in the middle of the bar) was contacting the subframe at what seems to be very limited travel and maybe have contributed to some of the suspension knocks I've been hearing. I can only guess at what it does, but I've removed it to get some extra travel.

Trevhib

25-09-2014, 10:09

They look excellent. :agree: Ooh, rubbage on your inner wing from your wheels :D

Woznaldo

25-09-2014, 12:21

They look excellent. :agree: Ooh, rubbage on your inner wing from your wheels :D

Yeah I'm really pleased with how they've turned out. I've got that rubbing on both sides. I don't want to run spacers and it only happens at extremes of lock, but annoying all the same.

The quicker I get the widetrack conversion on the better! It will use all new brakes though, so I'll stick with this for a little while! :D

Woznaldo

30-09-2014, 12:23

Bob at CGB did a sterling service and got me two front wheel hub bearing kits to Australia for A$140 (GBP65). Yes, that means GBP45 to ship two bearing kits to Australia, but it did get here very quickly (normally a week plus).

Woznaldo

02-10-2014, 13:22

I picked up my hub yesterday complete with newly pressed in bearing and fitted everything back to car yesterday evening in fading light! All that was left was the brake bleed. Today I completed the bleed with the help of my 10 year old son (who did an awesome job!) and was able to double check all the torque loadings and lower the car to the ground.

With the car all back together, I took the car out for a (careful) spin to both bed the brakes in and give them a good test too. As you would expect, the brakes felt a little vague to start off with, but with a healthy number of stops over a good 10 mins the feel started to come back as did the bite.

Too early to pass final judgement, but initial impressions feel good. I'm driving to Brisbane over the weekend which is just under 600 miles (950km) so I'll have plenty of miles to get everything properly settled and give some better feedback.

Woznaldo

13-10-2014, 10:26

Brake update:

Ok, I drove the car from Sydney to the Gold Coast (near Brisbane) which was fairly boring and took 7 hrs first day drive followed by 4 hrs the next day! A total distance of 850 km. The brakes performed well with a loaded up car, but I wasn't going to push it with all the gear in the back. Not for fear of dodgy brakes, but more because I didn't want the load joining me in the front!

Anyway, once at my destination I was able to unload the car and go for a blast around some of the local mountain roads and have to say I'm very impressed. The initial bite is better than before and no signs of fade yet. If anything they have been getting better the warmer they get!?

I'll take the old girl out again next weekend and try to push them a bit harder. The feel has been good too. At least as good as before if not better (one of my main concerns).

Suspension update:

I spoke to Gaz about their Mk1 VW Golf Adjustable Top Mounts as they looked like they might work better for my application than something from Compbrake, but I would need to have the Piston Rods machined first! It's a bit more work than I was hoping for, but might be worth it for the final result?

I've also been speaking to Renault Power in Germany about their GpA Torsion Bars, but they're a little pricey. It's a shame as the suspension is one area I really want to develop, but there just isn't the same support at the Club Motorsport level in Aus.

I might try a very well respected local firm that has had epic results in the World Time Attack Championship (WTAC). I've already sampled their entry level 'Blue Series' on my '98 WRX and love the results. The company is called Murry Coote Automotive (MCA) and they are very customer focused. I just don't know how much it will cost?

More to follow.....:D

Woznaldo

10-12-2014, 11:39

OK, I continued with my research on the Top Mount/Camber Plate/Pillow Ball Mount and cam across something that I thought might fit the bill. They are actually made for a Toyota Celica ST162/164/185, but I asked the company if they could send me a paper template that I could print out to lay over the top of the Strut Tower and they provided a scale printable version!!

They provide the best compromise of allowing for a DECREASE of Negative Camber (for future wide track), pushing the Strut Mount rearwards for extra Caster and fit within the Strut Tower with minimal modification.

Now, the Strut Tower is going to need some modification, such as removing the pressed shoulder of the hole and drilling a few extra holes to allow for mounting and Camber adjustment.

Here's a pic of the Top Mount and the Shouldered Sleeve to allow for my M14 x 1.5 thread on my Leda Struts.

http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/Suspension%20Systems/781C862C-ED0B-4022-AF5A-A9A288B29FCC_zps0geslnxb.jpg

http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/Suspension%20Systems/BFE55F18-4AF5-4F2E-9BE8-36C1BFB28ED5_zpsmnhbrls9.jpg

As soon as I get them fitted up I'll get some more pics up. :D

wilton_warrior

10-12-2014, 16:34

Realy liking the idea of this top mount design indeed :agree:

Aterro

11-12-2014, 19:23

Love yellow cars, and i love this!

Great read too!

Matty

11-12-2014, 21:35

Nice build, lots of nice touches to the ecu install. :-)

Is the long term plan to go efi?

Woznaldo

12-12-2014, 07:01

Nice build, lots of nice touches to the ecu install. :-)

Is the long term plan to go efi?

I say it almost every year, but hopefully I will throw the EFI manifold on over the Christmas break?.......

I've got all the hardware except for the injectors, so I'll just get a set of 0280 150 0431 Bosch Red Tops for GBP60-70.

I also need to make up a Throttle Body adapter to get pipe run sorted and clearing the bonnet.

I've just got the car through the Aus equivalent to the MOT. It failed on loose seat mounts and the horn not working. I bought a set of Sparco seat runners and a universal Twin Air Horn. :wasntme: All good now! Toot toot!

Woznaldo

14-12-2014, 07:25

I pulled one of my Struts off today to see if I had enough available thread to go through the Camber Plate Bearing with the Coil Spring Top Hat in place. The bottom line is... ...there isn't :(. Here's a pic.

http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/The%20Yellow%20Peril/TTTCPBearingHousing02_zpsdb14903b.jpg

I've also got an issue with the Strut itself, but will have to pull it apart to see what's what. I will order some new Piston Rods from Leda with longer threads and hopefully this will solve the issue with thread engagement.

I also took the liberty to position the Camber Plate Base to see how far outboard and rear I could get it. Looks preety good for my 172 based Widetrack conversion!

http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/The%20Yellow%20Peril/TTTCamberPlateStrutTowerPosn01_zpsceadff87.jpg

It's not exactly where I want it, but you get the idea.

Hopefully I can get everything suspension sorted over the Christmas break.

Woz

Scoobykilla

14-12-2014, 14:09

Trevhib

14-12-2014, 18:57

Woz, how did you take that under turret pic. Your arms must be hugely long :D

Woznaldo

15-12-2014, 09:53

New poster! (less than 10 posts)

nice car and nice thread on it!! :)

I know of 5 in Australia

1) My newly aqquired red 1990
2) yours.
3) Pearl white in Perth.
4) Black magic skeete (johns old one)
5) the blue one for sale at the moment on Aussiefrogs (I nearly bought that).

There's a few on OzRenaultSport too. A tungy grey one, the Red one from Brizzy and one or two others.

Woznaldo

15-12-2014, 10:05

Woz, how did you take that under turret pic. Your arms must be hugely long :D

Well I am quite tall (6' 2"), but I don't think it's that hard to reach?.... ...Saying that, I do find it hard to buy off the peg suits to fit my arms :scared:....

Trevhib

15-12-2014, 10:25

Go go gadget :D

Woznaldo

15-12-2014, 11:08

The manufacture of the Top Mount/Camber Plates has suggested that I bore the Leda Spring Top Hats to the same 22mm as the Piston Rod, thereby making them a 'floating' assembly. This will buy me some more thread, but I'm not sure if it will be enough.

Here's a pic showing the setup with the unmodified Top Hat.

http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/The%20Yellow%20Peril/TTTCPBearingHousing01_zpsa9dd802d.jpg

I'll try the Bearing Housing with no Top Mount Fitted and see how much thread I actually have and go from there.

Saying that, I've just previewed the above picture and it looks like the Shouldered Sleeve may be smaller than 22mm?.....

Woz

Woznaldo

15-12-2014, 11:19

Looks like it is. Probably about 21.85mm :(

Scoobykilla

15-12-2014, 13:36

Yeah my red one is the red one form Brissy :)

Woznaldo

17-12-2014, 01:16

Yeah my red one is the red one form Brissy :)

That would explain it!

Tutuur

17-12-2014, 10:08

New poster! (less than 10 posts)

nice car and nice thread on it!! :)

I know of 5 in Australia

1) My newly aqquired red 1990
2) yours.
3) Pearl white in Perth.
4) Black magic skeete (johns old one)
5) the blue one for sale at the moment on Aussiefrogs (I nearly bought that).

There's a guy from The Netherlands who emmigrated to Australia a few years back, who took his ebs and gtt with evo bodykit

Woznaldo

26-12-2014, 05:51

As suspected, the available thread is still not long enough with just the bearing and sleeves (no top hat).

http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/The%20Yellow%20Peril/566F777B-F713-4572-9182-E2A3345E12CE_zpsdhdkznk0.jpg

http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/The%20Yellow%20Peril/75D0E622-8852-4F38-9674-4A54661CB80F_zpsdlxugmqa.jpg

So the two solutions are to abandon these top mounts for ones with a larger bearing, or machine the Leda Piston Rods to free up some thread. 15mm is probably what's required and with the Piston Rods removed, I should be able to get any reputable machine shop to carry out the work.

http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/The%20Yellow%20Peril/LedaPistonRodThread01_zpsd06cd72c.jpg

When I spoke to Roger at Leda, he said that he would go for the larger bearing option as a longer threaded portion could be weaker? I think Roger's logic is sound, but if I ensure the machining includes some fillets to reduce stress points, I think this weakness could be largely mitigated? Time will tell.....

Woznaldo

28-12-2014, 23:29

After the recent temperature creeping I decided to upgrade the cooling system. For the moment I'm going with an Oil Cooler with remote Oil Filter. I got the kit from Majesty on eBay. I'm pretty happy with the quality, but won't know for sure until it's up and running with some pressure in the system.

I've located the Cooler and Remote Filter Housing, but may need to get a few different AN10 fittings to get the best angles on the hoses. Here's a few pics:

http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/The%20Yellow%20Peril/E2A3A1C4-8D39-4733-89D7-5B3CB2327457_zpskzxdtgjm.jpg

http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/The%20Yellow%20Peril/0A4C66D1-5B8F-4FB6-996C-2F839C93EEFE_zpsn7bzispl.jpg

Here"s the remote filter housing, just below the left front indicator. Ignore the rusty cross beam, I'm going to clean that all up.

http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/The%20Yellow%20Peril/224E7EB1-A66A-4A20-8D60-C2F38CA8861E_zpslwa8rkqe.jpg

The kit comes with 4 x 90 degree AN10 and 4 x straight AN10 for the six ends, but I'm going to get a 150 degree and a 45 degree to make it neater behind the cross beam.

Scoobykilla

29-12-2014, 09:59

Nice setup you will have to let us know if affects the temps any??

I am hoping mine copes with the heat over here although I think it should....

Turbo_Tambo

29-12-2014, 10:00

Bigfoot

29-12-2014, 11:31

New poster! (less than 10 posts)

G'day Woz. That remote oil filter housing is a great idea. Does that mean you can blank the current oil filter position off, making oil filter changes a piece of piss, cos currently they are a nightmare!

The remote setup will blank off the current filter position, only issue would be would the oil cooler will be running inline? So cant control the oil temperature

Woznaldo

30-12-2014, 04:27

G'Day Tambo and Scoobykilla,

I've got some other bits I'm going to change on the car, so won't know how well it helps the temperatures, but I'd like to take advantage of the summer temps so I can give it a real test!

The standard setup uses an oil route as follows:

1. Sump
2. Pump
3. Sandwich Plate
4. Cooler
5. Sandwich Plate
6. Filter
7. Engine

My new setup will be as follows:

1. Sump
2. Pump
3. Takeoff Plate (in place of Sandwich Plate)
4. Cooler
5. Filter
6. Takeoff Plate
7. Engine

The only real difference is that the OE Sandwich Plate has a small bleed hole that allows a small amount of oil to constantly bypass the cooler, but not the filter. I won't have any bypass so I my oil could take a little bit longer to get up to temp. I did look at making a similar hole with the new setup, but it would mean bypassing both the cooler and the filter and that's not a good thing!

I have looked at different types of Thermostat, but none will really work with my application. I will fit an Oil Temp Gauge to monitor temps and a mech Oil Pressure Gauge too. This way I'll be able to get a better indication of what's actually happening.

Once I'm all up and running again, I'll let everyone know how works in the real world.

Woznaldo

30-12-2014, 04:28

Oh, I forgot to say, YES filter changes will be a breeze now!

Scoobykilla

30-12-2014, 11:23

Yeah will make oil changes easy lol

Be interesting to see how it goes if its worth the extra effort...

Woznaldo

03-01-2015, 00:33

I forgot to mention earlier that when I pulled the LH Strut off, it felt like it had lost all damping! I obviously continued to do my Top Mount/Camber Plate assessments as I was just checking dimensions.

Anyway, now that I've had more time, I pulled both the Struts and took then to my old work workshop to use their big vice as nothing in my garage was large enough to hold the Struts for the release torque!

I also noticed the RH Strut was extremely stiff when it came off, so I was very interested to know what was going on. On the LH Strut I was expecting to find some dirt under the shims holding them open, but even then wasn't expecting that to account for the total lack of damping on the LH Strut.

With the Struts in the vice and both Gland Nuts cracked I started to pull them apart to assess the damage. It was immediately apparent what the issue was as soon as I lifted out the Piston Tubes.

LH Piston Tube - This had ruptured allowing the hydraulic circuit to be compromised!

http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/Leda%20Strut%20Stripdown%20Two/7DA9E082-BF5B-4AC1-A486-28DA6DC3001F_zpsikq0r8hx.jpg

RH Piston Tube - This had also ruptured, but in a much more dramatic way. The Piston has tried to escape from the Piston Tube!!!!

http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/Leda%20Strut%20Stripdown%20Two/7B7A39B6-E68D-46A9-BFE2-0EE99F13D356_zps72qtdabe.jpg

Despite the damage, they should still be rebuildable and the most important parts are completely untouched.

Trevhib

03-01-2015, 14:17

Good effort! :eek: Lol. Blimey.

Andrew Cooke

03-01-2015, 19:01

Woz - can you swap the top hat on the damper for a shouldered nut? It's like that on the Clio kits.

I did this on the Twingo http://www.rtoc.org/boards/showthread.php?p=162965&highlight=damper#post162965

Andy

Woznaldo

04-01-2015, 05:50

Andy, even with no Top Hat fitted at all I still don't have the grip length. If the bearings in the Camber Plate were bigger (had a bigger ID), I would be able to use a sleeved nut and have no problem at all.

The company that supplied the Camber Plate also do some Top Hats for 2.5" ID Springs that have a needle roller bearing that actually sits against the Camber Plate Bearing Housing thus taking a lot of stress off the bearing itself. This Top Hat is 'floating' on the Piston Rod too.

Woznaldo

11-01-2015, 22:29

So I dropped the Front Subframe a few days ago so I could complete a few jobs on the Engine, Engine Bay and Front Suspension.

Here's the front end of the car being lifted. I did it slowly with frequent checks to make sure nothing was snagging and all was good except for the Brake Servo to Manifold pipe! :ashamed: Found it on the second check and no damage done.

http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/The%20Yellow%20Peril/1251A2A1-A852-4D17-8287-6564C792C470_zpsjwnxtenb.jpg

This is the height I needed to wheel the Subframe Assy. I didn't have much room, so had to wheel it out sideways.

http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/The%20Yellow%20Peril/0A0FAEB0-04C1-4709-A49B-8788D6B25587_zpsatk8donp.jpg

Looks like some old school drag racer with no wheelie bar!

Here's the Front Subframe with Engine/Gearbox complete. I bought a dolly platform from a local auto factor for AU$32 (GBP17) that allows me to wheel the assembly around the garage.

http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/The%20Yellow%20Peril/81E12C0C-1DD3-40D8-896F-76FBC792CC25_zpshckygpap.jpg

Things to do on the Engine are Timing Chain and Tensioner, clean up the block and maybe give it some colour. I'm also going to pull the sump and replace the crank seals to cure some leaks. I wondering if I should refresh the Oil Pump while I've got the Sump off?

I've already split the Engine from the Gearbox and mounted it on my newly acquired Engine Stand. I had to remove the Clutch to fit the Engine to the stand. All of the clutch bolts came out apart from one that required me to hammer in a 1/4" Hex Drive socket as someone had already rounded off the inside quite nicely.

I'll let you know what I find as I pull the Engine apart.

turbo ted

11-01-2015, 22:35

Cool picture doing a wheelie what's the two square boxes on crossmember extra bumper blocks?

Woznaldo

11-01-2015, 22:38

Cool picture doing a wheelie what's the two square boxes on crossmember extra bumper blocks?

Yeah, I formed some 3mm Aluminium sheet to provide some extra support for the Front Bumper as I didn't like the gap that was under the Front Grill.

turbo ted

11-01-2015, 22:44

Yes I see now as you have a skeete front bumper my mrs car used to have a skeete front bumper and always had a gap under the grill good idea regards rob

Trevhib

12-01-2015, 10:20

If you're going to do the oil pump, make sure you get the right GTT replacement. Not one from one of the other R5 models :agree:

Woznaldo

12-01-2015, 10:51

Yeah, I fell for that trap before I left UK and still have it on the shelf! easy to tell them apart too. All other Cleon engined 5s used a spur gear type pump and the GTT uses a vein and rotor type pump.

I did a bit of research and found a higher capacity pump that's used on some older Renaults (Gordinis etc) in France, but couldn't make contact with anyone. Is it required? Probably not, but always good to have the extra capacity! ;)

Woznaldo

12-01-2015, 11:05

Here's a pic of the larger Vein and Rotor next to the GTT original.

http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/GTTandGordiniOilPumpHC_zpse41e4f55.jpg

Here's the link to where I found it. I think someone on here actually pointed me in the right direction, but can't remember who. Ian S maybe?

http://keops-racing.skyrock.com/17.html

Trevhib

12-01-2015, 13:16

Brilliant. :agree:

Woznaldo

13-01-2015, 08:57

Started pulling the Engine apart today. Just started with the Sump and Timing Chain Cover. I was expecting to find some damage/rubbing as I occasionally got a sound that sounded like something was loose, but it all looks tip top.

http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/The%20Yellow%20Peril/2D0072A0-95B8-4E9D-B527-16E3DA6CE28E_zpskk6or6v7.jpg

I'm going to replace the Timing Chain and Tensioner anyway as I have them.

I also pulled the Oil Pump off and while it all felt quite good with no excessive play, while I pulled it apart there was some scoring in the housing that I think will mean a replacement is on the cards.

http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/The%20Yellow%20Peril/6FD26A93-F558-439D-9A9E-AF8D0BFA3036_zpsrhtxktnf.jpg

There's also some abrasion on the Vein and Rotor pieces.

http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/The%20Yellow%20Peril/AA54080D-A700-466C-AD43-C827EACABF4D_zpszthnfhsy.jpg

http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/The%20Yellow%20Peril/F9760512-8B11-433D-990B-A7E3B59F88D7_zpspnuflyin.jpg

I did pull a sliver of metal out of the Oil Pump suction strainer that I'm a little concerned about, so I might just go with a full rebuild and be done with it! :D

http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/The%20Yellow%20Peril/10BBB5FC-33E0-496E-81FC-9435F37949DD_zps9mus2yhl.jpg

More as it happens!

Aterro

13-01-2015, 21:29

I absolutely love this car!

Woznaldo

14-01-2015, 06:35

Thank you kind Sir. :D

Woznaldo

14-01-2015, 09:18

Ok, pulled some more bits of the Engine, but before I got too far I decided to re-check the Alliance MPI Manifold. In one of my earlier posts (would have been a while back), I highlighted where the lower half of the Alliance MPI Manifold was contacting the Exhaust Manifold. In the original Californian 1.4L Alliances the Inlet and Exhaust Manifolds are bolted together for heat transfer purposes. I will not be needing that, so I removed the forward two mating lugs.

http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/The%20Yellow%20Peril/5675F3D4-D798-4042-ADFD-4E194BF045F7_zpspmdzpgl1.jpg

http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/The%20Yellow%20Peril/7CEF7E38-8BE8-4E9E-8592-6C54DF6A0439_zpsjma6rehf.jpg

This has now allowed the Alliance MPI Manifold to sit flush against the Cylinder Head inlet port face. The angle that the Throttle Body sits at now, is much more favourable! Result!

http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/The%20Yellow%20Peril/AF34D0E3-6F2A-446E-9110-C54A5484F68A_zps0zryrm73.jpg

http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/The%20Yellow%20Peril/18A95B13-EFC7-4DAB-B9BB-74F58514A1D8_zpsn5eskfys.jpg

http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/The%20Yellow%20Peril/1C0340D5-2A8B-4A96-94B4-44B24C771E29_zpswcdjvpj0.jpg

http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/The%20Yellow%20Peril/641A8E49-5C0E-4A15-BD46-3F5AC5858380_zpstqknmsvx.jpg

http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/The%20Yellow%20Peril/5224C8E5-4B24-4803-8741-7BAEFA6F5BB7_zpsxhfeyv2a.jpg

http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/The%20Yellow%20Peril/0CB76E06-A321-49EE-89C9-998ED3EF1800_zpshqziukb1.jpg

I pulled the Down Pipe off the back of the Turbo and noticed that the Turbine Housing is cracked at the By-pass Button opening. I'm sure it would be ok for a while, but I do have another Turbo. It's only a T2 with a slightly larger Compressor Wheel. I might whack it up to 18 psi and see what happens.....:devil:

http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/The%20Yellow%20Peril/A5C26305-6188-469E-A7A4-55D3C5FF4073_zps7mswj4cn.jpg

The Pistons look like they're in good knick too. Despite some concerns about my fuelling, it would appear to have been a little rich if anything :).

http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/The%20Yellow%20Peril/B2708484-684B-4154-A2A5-0AEBEDD564BA_zps1n1xhzsr.jpg

http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/The%20Yellow%20Peril/3A8AE37C-502E-4214-BC8E-E887EDC3DA3C_zpshi4derhs.jpg

http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/The%20Yellow%20Peril/285566A9-3F74-447A-94EA-0D99DB5ABF7F_zpsr4ifjdrb.jpg

I wasn't happy with the end fitting options provided in my Oil Cooler Kit. Not that they weren't good, just not great for my setup. To that end I ordered a 150 degree and a 45 degree end fitting to make for a far more pleasing solution to the way I will route my hoses.

http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/The%20Yellow%20Peril/6864680C-AB30-47F9-A56D-15EBA76A9EFE_zpsfhb3d3gu.jpg

I wanted to drop below with one hose and up and over with the other from the Remote Filter Housing. No hoses fitted yet, but you get the idea.

http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/The%20Yellow%20Peril/29378BB9-3917-466A-A920-F572B5103E76_zps52s27xz6.jpg

I'd love to change the Cam while the engine is out, but I don't think that my budget can stretch that far :(.

I did manage to pick up most of the bolts I need for AU$60, which is a shit load cheaper than buying Champion packs! I couldn't get any 10.9 or 12.9 bolts, apart from the Clutch Cap Screws.

I guess I'll just to get these bolts through Mike or Bob. They're the Flywheel bolts, the Crank Pully Bolts and obviously the Head Bolts.

Trevhib

14-01-2015, 11:56

Great result!

The crack in the turbo housing is super common, that looks fine to me. :agree:

jamie_clioGTT

14-01-2015, 18:57

[QUOTE=Woznaldo;390063]Started pulling the Engine apart today. Just started with the Sump and Timing Chain Cover. I was expecting to find some damage/rubbing as I occasionally got a sound that sounded like something was loose, but it all looks tip top.

Hi Woz.

I may be wrong here but my C1J and a friends C1J both make a rattle on startup.

I personally put this down to the chain tensioner working on oil pressure so takes a few seconds to put full tension on the chain.

As i have said i may be totally wrong here hopefully somebody else can give an input?

Looking great though, really impressive work going on :agree:

Trevhib

14-01-2015, 19:38

There's a good way to test that:

Run the over-boost wires to the cabin, bridge them (with a switch if necessary), crank the car over until the oil pressure comes up, hit the switch, car fires, listen for rattles. If it doesn't, it's oil pressure as suggested and/or maybe a bit of piston slap.

If it does still rattle then it's not oil pressure.

jamie_clioGTT

14-01-2015, 20:12

Woznaldo

14-01-2015, 20:13

Trevhib

14-01-2015, 20:17

Hide that switch somewhere clever and it allows you to get pressure up every time before starting and doubles as a fantastic immobiliser. Ahem. I did this to all three of my GTTs, can't recommend it enough.

Woznaldo

14-01-2015, 20:18

Mine wasn't a start up issue or just when cold. It was intermittent which was making it hard to track down. I was thinking that the Tensioner may have been sticking? The engine just seemed a bit noisy and it was a metallic type noise.

I'll conduct the rebuild and see if anything turns up.

Woznaldo

14-01-2015, 20:21

I don't think my oil pressure was as high as it should have been, but we all know how accurate the OE gauges are?.....

Woznaldo

15-01-2015, 02:18

My Spacer Plates for the Camber Plates/Top Mounts arrived in the post today. When the machinist was making them he said that there may have been a problem with the eDrawing that I supplied as two of the three attachment slot holes had 'keyholed' slightly. As they are just spacer plates I was happy to take them.

Here's a couple of pics with the Spacer Plates sitting on top.

http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/The%20Yellow%20Peril/548CFA32-B23C-4555-9571-45B0E08E7B33_zpscnjlgq3e.jpg

http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/The%20Yellow%20Peril/4349F6A9-5081-4822-AE72-01EB84A2C52E_zpsy6a54fym.jpg

Obviously the main strut nut will still be proud of the SPacer Plate, but this will be in the region of the existing Strut Tower hole, so should be fine. I might have a go at getting them mounted today if time permits.

I also pulled the Cam Followers and they look pretty good too. No.1 looks like it has some minor marks on it's face, but nothing excessive. The rest just have the normal side discolouration wear.

http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/The%20Yellow%20Peril/0BF45106-DC9E-4757-BB71-025C138128D5_zps2l0gppfy.jpg

http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/The%20Yellow%20Peril/2387709D-C51F-4477-BE3A-2A7FFC6C4976_zpspyqr9oea.jpg

I'll pull the Cam next....

Nad-5GTT

15-01-2015, 12:11

Enjoying your updates :cool: camber plates look amazing:agree:

Woznaldo

16-01-2015, 08:21

Thanks Nad. :)

I finally committed to drilling the Strut Towers for the new Camber Plates after measuring and adjusting about 40 times! I really happy with the result.

RHS First hole!!!!!:eek:

http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/The%20Yellow%20Peril/7FD8833D-0B13-4948-A879-8CA162080EE4_zpskqwdiadl.jpg

That was the hardest part as once I had that done I could get a bolt through and mark the other holes. LHS Camber Plate bolted up.

http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/The%20Yellow%20Peril/EEC3C375-A416-42E5-B374-B21E1B4ADD30_zps2jezvos0.jpg

Here's the Camber Plate bolted up complete with Bearing Housing and new Spacer Plates. The first pic shows max outboard adjustment (remove negative camber or add positive camber). I've put the small 'red cross' where the top of the Strut would be at this max setting.

http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/The%20Yellow%20Peril/78938070-86DF-47E5-AB0E-9F6A04FDB117_zpsbkxdpsjt.jpg

This pic shows the other end of the adjustment range, although this will probably never be used!

http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/The%20Yellow%20Peril/9A739F8F-37A2-4792-9D52-B6D611C578E3_zpsj3pmapvd.jpg

this pic shows where the std Ph2 Top Mount would place the top of the Strut, although only along the Camber axis. There's a fair bit of extra Caster.

http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/The%20Yellow%20Peril/CA93C6F8-3440-46C9-8450-D91C2BF7B0D5_zpsa3seoj92.jpg

So what does this all mean? Well at the moment, when I reassemble the suspension I will have the Camber plates at the OE Camber position. As mentioned above, this will give me some extra Caster, which is always useful. The real advantage will come to the fore when I go to my 172 based Widetrack setup. With the 172 Wishbones pushing the front wheels outboard by about 50mm per side, these Camber plates will allow me to remove any excessive Neg Camber. :D All theory at the moment, but I'm fairly confident that they will do the job.

Obviously, what I do with the bodywork is another question........

I've got a total range of movement for Camber of 53mm, but the OE position eats about 10mm of that, so remaining adjustment is 43mm. What that means in degrees of Neg Camber I haven't worked out yet.

Woznaldo

19-01-2015, 23:30

I suppose I can't have it all my own way. :crap: It would appear that I need to get my Crank cleaned up a bit. The No.5 Main Journal is scored around the centre. The rest don't look too bad, but I have yet to measure for oval etc.

http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/The%20Yellow%20Peril/C5E48F9C-0329-4436-82DA-4B96D963BF1B_zpsbk7vz1s2.jpg

http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/The%20Yellow%20Peril/BB1FAB40-3FA6-4CDA-81AE-38F65BA035AA_zpsaiumw8dw.jpg

What do you guys think about Knife Edging the Crank along with a complete rotating assy balance? I've seen quite a few guys in France go down this route, especially those using their cars in local rally.

Woznaldo

09-02-2015, 09:57

UPDATE. (a small one).

Leda have again gone above and beyond with advice and customer service. New parts have arrived today (less of a rush for me this time round) and look the business as usual.

This time I had the Piston Rods made a little longer as I think it will give the Struts some extra lateral stability and I can afford to lose a little bump travel as there isn't much bump travel anyway. I also had the threaded portion made a bit longer to accommodate the new Camber Plates as there wasn't enough to get a nut on! There is now more than enough thread and even a quick trial fit to prove the point.

http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/The%20Yellow%20Peril/DD0F6398-2DF3-4854-831D-0B388C6A0FBB_zpsbx4y4p9q.jpg

http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/The%20Yellow%20Peril/85540162-9AD1-453C-BDCF-0C1ACFD7BE13_zps2aq2tk0m.jpg

I know I wont be able to get the full width of camber adjustment with the extra thread sticking up, but that's not required just yet so I wont need to modify the Strut Tower anymore at the moment.