View Full Version : Project Yellow Peril
Woznaldo
24-02-2015, 10:49
Not too much to mention here, other than I dropped my Block and Liners off to get the chemically cleaned, and also get the liners honed ready for the new Piston Rings. I also took my Crank to check to see if it's going to need a grind or a linish. Took my spare Crank so I should get the best one back.
Once I get the Block back, I'll hit it with the POR15 Engine Enamel and hopefully create a thing of beauty!
Woznaldo
03-03-2015, 13:42
Not too much to mention here, other than I dropped my Block and Liners off to get the chemically cleaned, and also get the liners honed ready for the new Piston Rings. I also took my Crank to check to see if it's going to need a grind or a linish. Took my spare Crank so I should get the best one back.
Once I get the Block back, I'll hit it with the POR15 Engine Enamel and hopefully create a thing of beauty!
The machine shop have got back to me at the end of last week to let me know that the parts were done. I've been away with work and won't be home until the end of next week, but they've told that they did need to grind the Crank. They also mentioned that the Liners were a little worn, but not excessively? Now I'm thinking I should replace them while the Engine is apart?....
Also picked up some Injectors for a very good price, but I won't pass comment until I see them in the flesh.
Woznaldo
19-04-2015, 12:39
I've slowly ticked off a few more jobs, the main one being painting the Engine Block. I got myself some POR-15 Engine Enamel in Hi Po Yellow and started the process.
The Block was cleaned at the Machine Shop, but it still had some corrosion evident. I de-greased the Block a set about it with some Rust Converter. This need more than one application and I removed the loose converted rust, together with any remaining paint with a wire wheel.
The Block was then thoroughly degreased again, masked off and the first coat of POR-15 Engine Enamel applied. Now the application guidance suggested that a single coat might do the trick, but as can be seen from the following pics, that was not the the case.
This was the first coat.
http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/The%20Yellow%20Peril/3B40705F-7F35-44E2-B3A1-B9327C0011D6_zpsdoiuj0vi.jpg
This was the second.
http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/The%20Yellow%20Peril/232D5C6E-DA78-4563-8146-831B09BABCFD_zpsevnc9bxc.jpg
This was the fourth and final coat:
http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/The%20Yellow%20Peril/6E45A981-1E36-4DFC-A249-B96222D2DB9E_zps44pwtvbv.jpg
Not perfect, but I'm happy with both the coverage and the finish, but if I was to do it again or provide advice to anyone using this paint I would do the following:
1. Remove all paint and rust.
2. Clean and degrease using POR-15 products.
3. Mask the block appropriately.
4. Apply a thin even coat to the Block using a small one inch cheap paint brush. Work the paint into the Block to ensure it gets on to and into the casting surface voids.
5. Apply additional coats as required waiting 24 hrs between coats. Don't try to whack on a thick coat or the overall fish will suffer (my initial mistake).
6. Once happy allow to fully cure and remove masking ready for assembly.
I only bought a small pot, but it stretches quite well. I've only used a third of it doing four coats. With remainder I will paint the Sump and the Timing Chain Cover as both were a little ropey.
Woznaldo
19-04-2015, 12:44
I've also picked up a set of Bosch Green Giant 440 cc/min Injectors (0280 155 968) to use with my Alliance Manifold. Probably more than is required, but they have an excellent spray pattern and a nice injector to tune at low rpm.
Good stuff. :) I think this is the slowest burn project on RTOC whereby the process has been gradual and continual. Must be getting on for 8yrs Woz, or a bit longer maybe?
Woznaldo
20-04-2015, 13:25
Too true Trev. If a had the funds I think I could have it all done in a year from start to finish! :rolleyes:
Lol, I didn't mean it in a detrimental way. It's great, you've never given up or gotten frustrated with the time scales, the quality has always been there and you're not afraid to do things differently. :agree:
Woznaldo
20-04-2015, 21:59
I took it as it meant Trev. All good.
I've toyed with a few different ideas over the years and I'm still getting the Widetrack bits together. Suspension mods have always had that in mind.
Woznaldo
23-08-2015, 11:48
Small update:
I've finally got a little bit of disposable income so ordered some more parts for the Engine rebuild. It's mostly boring stuff like bearings, bolts and gaskets. I have opted for a larger Alloy Radiator (50mm thick core) which seems to be quite well made.
The new Radiator and the Remote Oil Filter and Oil Cooler should help keep everything in check for the hot Aussie summers of 40+ deg C!
After some advice I decided to put the Carb setup back on to run in my Cat Cam (5500325) as it'll probably take a few attempts to get the car started on EFI, by which time I may damage the new Cam.
As soon as all the parts are here I'll do a little porn shoot!
Woz
Just out of interest mate which radiator did you go with? Seen a few of the 50mm ones about but never sure on the quality from pics alone.
Woznaldo
26-08-2015, 09:55
Just out of interest mate which radiator did you go with? Seen a few of the 50mm ones about but never sure on the quality from pics alone.
It was a company called CHR Racing but they say they are based in Melbourne, Australia. I'm pretty sure it's made elsewhere as there just isn't a market for GT Turbos in Aus?
I have had other parts from an eBay company called Majesty and there stuff looks to be reasonable quality too.
It was a company called CHR Racing but they say they are based in Melbourne, Australia. I'm pretty sure it's made elsewhere as there just isn't a market for GT Turbos in Aus?
I have had other parts from an eBay company called Majesty and there stuff looks to be reasonable quality too.
Thanks - hadn't clicked you were in Oz! Looking at a Majesty intercooler at the moment so i'll check for rads as well.
Cheers
Woznaldo
01-09-2015, 13:31
Just got a nice little package from CGB full of parts for the rebuild. While it would have been nice to get lots of high end parts, most aren't needed and those that work can't be got from the same supplier which adds a shipping cost to me.
Parts Received from CGB:
Starter Motor
Valeo Green Clutch
OE Oil Pump - Refurbed
Main Shells (-.25mm)
Big End Shells (std)
Thrust Bearings
In/Ex Manifold Gasket
Block Core Plugs
Cylinder Head Bolts
Flywheel Bolts
I've already bought a shed load of high tensile metric bolts and various sizes so everything looks nice.
I can now get the Cat Cam 325, Vernier Pulley, Uprated Valve Springs and Spring Retainers. Christmas has come early for this little boy!
I still need to rebuild my Leda Struts with the modified Piston Rods, but study is eating my time at the moment.
I'll have to do the obligatory new parts pic soon....:coffee:
Sounding Good. Gotta love new part pictures :agree:
Jeff Ninebar
01-09-2015, 15:12
2nd that, love new parts pics :agree:
the yellow block looks sweet btw
Woznaldo
02-09-2015, 14:12
Nothing too exciting, but I'm still smiling :).
Group shot.
http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/The%20Yellow%20Peril/IMG_1264_zpstdrao0mj.jpg (http://s196.photobucket.com/user/woznaldo/media/The%20Yellow%20Peril/IMG_1264_zpstdrao0mj.jpg.html)
Refurbed std Oil Pump. I'm still looking at building an uprated pump, but not sure if it will fit, so this is the back up.
http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/The%20Yellow%20Peril/IMG_1265_zpsskike0t8.jpg
Now I know this may be controversial, but I've gone for an Uprated Starter. I think alignment is key with these, so I'll see how it goes....
http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/The%20Yellow%20Peril/IMG_1266_zpsnfkyqspb.jpg
Core Plugs
http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/The%20Yellow%20Peril/IMG_1267_zpsjczijmyy.jpg
Piston Rings
http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/The%20Yellow%20Peril/IMG_1268_zpskwojbut7.jpg
Mains and Big End Shells
http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/The%20Yellow%20Peril/IMG_1269_zpshvitgyzl.jpg
Thrust Washer
http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/The%20Yellow%20Peril/IMG_1270_zps7pvbz33m.jpg
Valeo Green Box Clutch (didn't want to crack the wrapping fully as it won't be going on for a while)
http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/The%20Yellow%20Peril/IMG_1271_zpsj6gvw2cr.jpg
Binx Manifold Nuts
http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/The%20Yellow%20Peril/IMG_1273_zpsasavxucu.jpg
Flywheel Bolts
http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/The%20Yellow%20Peril/IMG_1274_zpsz3qyug1w.jpg
12.9 High Tensile Cylinder Head Bolts
http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/The%20Yellow%20Peril/IMG_1275_zpsf2b5uyg6.jpg
I'm spent :cooter:.
Fantastic read. Keep up the good work. :agree:
You make me feel lazy though!:rolleyes:
Mr Raider
02-09-2015, 22:54
Great work, sweet collection of parts. Whats the RTX starter like build quality wise? bought one a couple of years ago then opted for the Lucas-Bosch as it was available from Euro Car Parts. :agree: :)
la turbine 63
04-09-2015, 09:30
Good job . :)
Woznaldo
05-09-2015, 05:44
Great work, sweet collection of parts. Whats the RTX starter like build quality wise? bought one a couple of years ago then opted for the Lucas-Bosch as it was available from Euro Car Parts. :agree: :)
Quality looks quite good. I'm going to do a few checks with the Flywheel while they're off the car. See what the gear meshing looks like. I'll take a few pictures along the way.
Woznaldo
08-09-2015, 10:21
Now these parts are a little more interesting....
The wonderment that is Cat Cams
http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/The%20Yellow%20Peril/910755DF-056A-4C42-BA00-BFE74091EB62_zps9mtsrwon.jpg
Uprated Springs and Retainers
http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/The%20Yellow%20Peril/9BBE1BAB-58EC-4A98-BCC7-A5C2DB3ECE64_zpspvpno9vk.jpg
Vernier Pulley
http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/The%20Yellow%20Peril/8D987EEB-8535-4F57-91D5-2BC9E403C8E7_zpsljvhnie4.jpg
The Camshaft - 5500325 (Once again afraid to crack the packaging just yet)
http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/The%20Yellow%20Peril/1A76E2C7-86B7-4B54-8564-AB4FE8FBC5C5_zpsi8vwucys.jpg
The spec sheet
http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/The%20Yellow%20Peril/e1e0a1b2-2e56-40ae-9e13-29df8500ef2e_zpshd1jg4ml.jpg
It's all getting very exciting!!! :D
very nice indeed woz we had the bb cat cam ending 327, made such a difference over the std cam, i think these are better than the pipers, they just keep revving too:laugh:
Woznaldo
08-09-2015, 10:39
very nice indeed woz we had the bb cat cam ending 327, made such a difference over the std cam, i think these are better than the pipers, they just keep revving too:laugh:
I was contemplating a 326 and 327, but thought them a little extreme for my use.
Can't wait to see what it's like on the road.
I was contemplating a 326 and 327, but thought them a little extreme for my use.
Can't wait to see what it's like on the road.
take my word you will not be dissappointed, i set cam timing exactly to the literature that came with our cam which was 113 degrees but we were told to set at 110 i stuck to my guns and did 113 and honestly the think will rev on and on, we had a full t25 running 15psi and it pulled like a animal did a 14.7 at pod last year and that was with a modest pull away lol
Woznaldo
10-12-2015, 09:24
Not really an update. More of a prelude of things to come.
I will be moving home in mid Jan 16 and the Engine is still in bits! If I want to make things easy for myself, I'll need to get the car on the road before the move!
The final pieces of the puzzle are coming together and as my Mum is heading over to Aus to escape the British winter, she'll be ditching clothes for GTT parts! I've got a lightened OEM Flywheel coming from Bob at CGB and then I should be in a reasonable position to get the engine rebuilt. I did want to go for an Ultralight Steel Flywheel, but funds denied me. :(
The other area of the car I still need to square away are the Leda Struts and the new front suspension setup. One strut has an alignment 'cup washer' at the base that won't come out! I must remove this in order to properly clean the internals before reassembly with new components. If I had a GSF round the corner, or even better a fellow RTOC member, I'd get some OEM suspension just to tide me over....
Then there are the really simple things that turn out to be a right royal pain in the harris. It would seem that no a singe Autofactor sells valve grinding paste over the counter!.
The good news is my 1973 Series 1 Jag XJ6 is back on the road, which is not only a very beautiful car, but gives me the transport to get parts for the 5! I've got plans for the Jag too, but that's another story......
More to follow in the coming weeks! :D
Woznaldo
13-12-2015, 22:21
Very small update.
Cleaned up the original valves today and relapped them into the head. Also fitted my Cat Cam uprated Valve Springs and Retainers. I've always preferred the look of the Cat Cam springs over the Piper versions as they have fewer coils and therefore less lightly to become coil bound in high lift applications.
http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/The%20Yellow%20Peril/1E06FAF7-4D52-4B41-9448-41B69A9777E5_zpsy0x7ejzy.jpg
http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/The%20Yellow%20Peril/B9B8FAA5-2F56-4027-B84C-9EA506179344_zpsrqwl9btl.jpg
http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/The%20Yellow%20Peril/D7E68C4F-EA89-41E9-AE1D-BEB25264B91B_zpsck6leytq.jpg
I'll slowly start putting the rest of the engine together over the festive period. :D
Woznaldo
23-12-2015, 12:20
Slowly going together, but I've hit my first issue. I had given my Pistons a quick inspection and they looked pretty good. I've cleaned them up today and it looks like the No.1 Piston has received a bit of detonation? I have another Engine that I can grab a Piston from, so not a big issue.
http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/The%20Yellow%20Peril/065C4A82-FD1B-4C02-8CD7-123180497CEE_zpsst2jve67.jpg
http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/The%20Yellow%20Peril/440EF99B-900A-4694-9691-6DF24645CDF2_zpskhqqrv9r.jpg
The liners were checked for the correct protrusion and all were good. They were then lubed up and new o-rings added.
http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/The%20Yellow%20Peril/B05668FB-3DBD-4F85-953C-6589AE16D730_zps8cdenne2.jpg
Woznaldo
24-12-2015, 11:56
Dug out the Pistond and Rods from my other Engine and they're in better condition and I forgot I had them balanced and matched, so I'm going to use all of them!
Woznaldo
27-12-2015, 12:42
Ok, got my bottom end in tonight and all the clearances are good. Just need to throw the Oil Pump on and then the Sump can go on too. Actually I'll get the Cam, Followers, Pulleys and Timing Chain on first.
http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/The%20Yellow%20Peril/4B0DFBFA-AABD-4565-AAAD-3C663F652F26_zpsv5mwkf9f.jpg
http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/The%20Yellow%20Peril/AEA963A0-F34D-47E9-AF5A-4476489313B9_zpseiyiz2oh.jpg
http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/The%20Yellow%20Peril/5255B05D-09EE-4F6E-B58F-02F45E7812C5_zpsfuno3wj2.jpg
Hopefully more tomorrow.
Woznaldo
28-12-2015, 11:24
Finally fitted the 325 Cam, but it was not without problems!
I fitted the Cam and then realised that I hadn't transferred the end-float located plate! Had a look at the old Cam and then knew I would need a puller of some description. I didn't have one, but I did have some steel bar so I made my own.
http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/The%20Yellow%20Peril/37F43FDA-12E5-4B3E-BAD8-5F5245757124_zps5uyybps9.jpg
The tool worked, but it did bend the locating plate, but it was easy enough to straighten up.
The next issue almost had me launching tools around the garage! With the Cam now sitting pretty and turning smoothly, I went about fitting the Adjustable Pulley. I opened the Pulley box and noticed that it would need a woodruff key to locate it. Said key was found in the Cam box. I thought I would locate the key and realised that Locating Plate Washer didn't have a slot for the woodruff key!!! :mad:
http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/The%20Yellow%20Peril/4B356DDE-FDAA-4F53-8017-E8CD8A9748DD_zpshoirdowo.jpg
http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/The%20Yellow%20Peril/6893A3F5-622B-4161-9DD4-C822D06A8965_zpsvvuq1r4m.jpg
At this point I had to have a cup of tea and a think. Did Cat Cams not send a wahser? Will I need to get a slot machined into my washer? No. Fortunately I had the Cam from an old Engine so I decided to check its washer to compare. This one did have the machined slot, but it would mean that the Cam would have to come out yet again!
Here's the Cam from the old Engine.
http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/The%20Yellow%20Peril/6F9F9270-2157-4482-BC53-514ECC37C24D_zpson0j5vfe.jpg
Clearly there are two different washers. One to be wary of. :sad2:
Here's the Cam fitted with the correct washer and woodruff key.
http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/The%20Yellow%20Peril/A42E6A55-8FEF-4B0D-AF1E-EC3842534535_zpsmwfpu9l8.jpg
I could now fit the Adjustable Pulley in preparation for timing the Cam.
http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/The%20Yellow%20Peril/066F1862-1B90-4D4D-A3AF-72A5DB9AD298_zpsao5koc14.jpg
Followers were then dropped in and then the Distributor Drive Gear. I can now put the Head on. A job for another day...
Matt Cole
28-12-2015, 15:47
Love this project. Be interested in the cam timing procedure. ;)
Really useful pics and description :agree: Actually details of the woodruff key way et al was brought up by a member recently and there appeared to be no extant pics on the site at that time. Had to search the net to help out.
Woznaldo
01-01-2016, 11:16
I've put the head on and then set about finding TDC. I didn't have a Degree Wheel, but thanks to the power of the internet I found a downloadable wheel that you print and then adhere to a suitably stiff medium. I just used some cardboard off a beer box. Here's the finished product ready to go:
(Link: http://www.blocklayer.com/degree-wheel.aspx)
http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/The%20Yellow%20Peril/08B4A43B-1BC0-4D65-B00D-A017D82D65A4_zpsgz0zav1u.jpg
I couldn't find a Piston Stop Tool at any place local so ordered two different types off eBay. In the meantime I bought a cheap spark plug and knocked out the middle in an attempt to make my own. Here's my first attempt.
http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/The%20Yellow%20Peril/693F3972-B1E8-4519-A931-7927239268FF_zpssm94ab3s.jpg
I used a nylon bolt to protect the piston but it was way to short because of the spark plug angle. I then used a long M6 bolt and that worked well. I just rounded off the end of the thread to remove any sharp edges.
The only missing piece of the puzzle was the indicating pointer. A bit of coat hanger worked well. I just created a loop and put it over the cam cover stud, securing it with a washer and nut.
http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/The%20Yellow%20Peril/C2B8ACFF-D62D-4A89-BCAC-B362DBBE26AF_zpsp4ck76pv.jpg
Here's the final setup.
http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/The%20Yellow%20Peril/B7A42ED3-3DCB-4F55-AD13-14A4E1A369A6_zpsz0nw5xfw.jpg
Now to business.
I have the cylinder head fitted and bolts done up firmly, but not torqued down. The engine is on an engine stand with the sump off.
Step 1. Looking under the engine, ensure that No.1 ( or 4) piston is NOT at TDC.
Step 2. Install the piston stop tool in the No.1 (or 4) spark plug hole.
Step 3. Turn the engine slowly until you feel the piston hit a mechanical stop (the piston stop tool). Make a note of the degree reading. Mine was 14 degrees clockwise.
Step 4. Turn the engine in the opposite direction until you again hit a mechanical stop. Note the reading. Mine was 4.5 degrees counter clockwise.
Step 5. Maths. Add the two numbers and dived by two. (14 + 4.5 = 18.5, 18.5/2 = 9.25). Subtract the result from the larger number you first found. (14 - 9.25 = 4.75) this is what you now rotate the crank to, only after removing the piston stop tool.
Step 6. With the engine at TDC, lock the position and rotate the degree wheel to 0 or TDC. The engine has now been zeroed to TDC ready for adjusting the Cam adjustable timing gear.
This is where I'm at and won't continue until I can positively locate a DTI.
You can find tdc with the cylinder head off if you clamp the liners down and use a dti on the piston which is the best way
The way you have done it has added timing chain slack hence the different reading the 2nd time.
You should only turn the crank in 1 direction when doing cam timing because of the chain slack messing readings up.
Head off,
Find tdc with dti
Fit cam follower and push rod and dti, find cam lift etc.
Woznaldo
01-01-2016, 21:58
I have previously tried with a DTI on the piston and the problem is the dwell at TDC (and BDC) means the piston is hardly moving. This means that there is a few degrees of slack that make the reading inaccurate.
The slack in the timing chain is irreverent at this point as the degree wheel is on the crank and I'm measuring piston position.
The piston stop method is well versed and what Cat Cams recommend.
Woznaldo
01-01-2016, 22:11
Here's the Cat Cams link:
http://www.catcams.com/tabid/469/Default.aspx?DOCUMENTATION_id=4
Markey Mark (BD)
01-01-2016, 22:29
I have previously tried with a DTI on the piston and the problem is the dwell at TDC (and BDC) means the piston is hardly moving. This means that there is a few degrees of slack that make the reading inaccurate.
The slack in the timing chain is irreverent at this point as the degree wheel is on the crank and I'm measuring piston position.
The piston stop method is well versed and what Cat Cams recommend.
I find tdc with a dti gauge by seeing when the dti stops moving once piston is fully up and note down the degs, go little further and see when it moves again, note that down too.
Half the difference and that's true tdc
Matt Cole
01-01-2016, 23:17
I would allow for 1 degree tolerance in chain and sprocket wear.
Woznaldo
02-01-2016, 00:45
I find tdc with a dti gauge by seeing when the dti stops moving once piston is fully up and note down the degs, go little further and see when it moves again, note that down too.
Half the difference and that's true tdc
That would work and is the same principle as the piston stop method.
Woznaldo
04-01-2016, 12:18
I've cleaned up a few brackets and given them a lick of paint in keeping with green/yellow engine bay colour scheme.
http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/The%20Yellow%20Peril/102A7FE5-1D66-4C6A-86B5-65E2338D17CA_zpsfqtlfbnr.jpg
http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/The%20Yellow%20Peril/B808DF88-2B01-4A7C-9766-264306A7AB7D_zpssys4ia2r.jpg
I have also turned my attention to the Oil Pump. I will be fitting a 5mm washer behind the pressure relief spring to increase the oil pressure, I have done this as I would like to see some more pressure, but also because I will now be running a remote oil cooler and filter housing with a bit more distance to run.
I found the small aluminium core plugs (in the core plug set) are the prefect diameter, but they're about 7.5mm thick. I sanded down the plug to 5mm and drilled through the centre to allow the relief piston to breath so it should work ok. I'm not entirely sure what pressure I will see now, but it's a thickness that has been used before so we'll soon see if it's overkill.
http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/The%20Yellow%20Peril/33D0D7EF-3A0A-41B2-984E-45CC104B2281_zps7edhs86y.jpg
Here's the core plug sitting in the oil pump for a size comparison.
http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/The%20Yellow%20Peril/4639EC3C-E138-4438-AA5E-121A8A280D0E_zpssif5qxxi.jpg
I also managed to rebuild my Leda Struts again. I didn't take anymore pics as the procedure is the same as before, but I'm hoping the new setup will work wonders. I'll get a pic up of the finished product soon.
:)
Woznaldo
05-01-2016, 12:34
Fitted the new Oil Pump with the 5mm spacer.
http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/The%20Yellow%20Peril/661457FF-9EA7-4A4E-9E11-B18C947A5E89_zpsjkwsxi3m.jpg
http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/The%20Yellow%20Peril/FCF61FE4-9328-445F-96AF-81E19FE408AC_zpsohxjwuey.jpg
Also timed in the Cam, but had to make a steel plate for the DTI
http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/The%20Yellow%20Peril/67EBAC6D-F1F6-4677-84C0-563046BA767E_zpsyspirhpd.jpg
Here's the DTI all setup.
http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/The%20Yellow%20Peril/2725BAB3-9207-4ECC-9F44-3D8F773C78A6_zpstynyi7kq.jpg
What I didn't realize was that once you have set TDC and set the DTI up on the No.1 Piston Inlet Valve pushrod, I needed to turn the engine almost one full rotation before I saw lift. Once I'd worked that out I turn the crank to 108 deg ATDC then adjusted the Adjustable Cam Pulley until I got full lift 9.75/1.5 = 6.5 at the Cam).
I also bought a proper Piston Stop and double checked TDC, which was spot on.
http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/The%20Yellow%20Peril/9F6EDEF4-3497-4F42-9CA8-AD1B9A96BFAF_zpsgxkhniqc.jpg
Matt Cole
05-01-2016, 13:07
Keep the progress going Wozz. ;)
Woz, loving the attention to detail on this. With regards to the shim on the oil pump depending on what oil viscosity you should see an increase around 5-10psi in pressure :agree:
Woznaldo
06-01-2016, 12:10
Woz, loving the attention to detail on this. With regards to the shim on the oil pump depending on what oil viscosity you should see an increase around 5-10psi in pressure :agree:
That's what I'm looking for, so hopefully all will be good.
Woznaldo
06-01-2016, 12:24
Did a little bit more today. Managed to get an adaptor for my remote oil filter setup.
Used a pipe fitting from a local franchise and it worked beautifully, but the bore had a restriction so I bored it out so it was a bit bigger than the AN-10 fittings I'm using.
http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/The%20Yellow%20Peril/971D8BB8-8D28-4F8C-914D-FC67C3AD157D_zps3zhnqp8r.jpg
http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/The%20Yellow%20Peril/34532217-F32D-4C85-975A-F2CC39A5EB6E_zpseayg2fm4.jpg
Also got the timing cover and sump on. As well as the water pump and cylinder head plate (opposite end to water pump).
http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/The%20Yellow%20Peril/B40CBCC8-17B7-4B82-9FD8-E71608F52AF6_zpscssybrtv.jpg
http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/The%20Yellow%20Peril/66DD5A25-EEFF-4FCD-8E4D-982195D5B764_zpsjsx30hcc.jpg
http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/The%20Yellow%20Peril/2B4E308E-B8FC-4BD0-B684-D94242C23F8E_zpshm7qz1ki.jpg
Hopefully I'll get the manifolds and some pipe work on tomorrow.
Woznaldo
08-01-2016, 12:15
Ok made a fair bit of progress today, but still a good days work left to do!
Manifolds on together with brackets for breather pipes and throttle linkages.
http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/The%20Yellow%20Peril/89B027C3-F47D-4E9F-8A87-1FB50E447C5D_zpsq3tkka6p.jpg
Also got some brackets on the front of the engine and the remote oil filter adaptor plate.
http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/The%20Yellow%20Peril/A9277F2B-F9CA-4910-B2F2-FF0A4E720217_zps0mvky0oy.jpg
Got a lightened Flywheel from Bob at CGB, but really wanted a TTV steel. :(
http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/The%20Yellow%20Peril/DECF6686-FCB0-4057-856D-6BD1BB02A222_zpsnt3ahvxn.jpg
So I could now throw the Valeo 'green box' clutch on.
http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/The%20Yellow%20Peril/6F2651A8-A0C5-4FFB-9B2B-78656B089008_zpshnn9hypq.jpg
Finally got to put the Engine on the Gearbox sitting in the Subframe. A little bit of fussing around with alignment, but not too many dramas.
http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/The%20Yellow%20Peril/D93EEB50-92C5-41D7-8B0D-0E3708D229A6_zpstialyeij.jpg
Just before I could the Subframe, complete, back under the car, I could finally fit the last two hard pipes that I gave a lick of paint.
http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/The%20Yellow%20Peril/2750D075-26DF-492D-B9AC-0FB7B262101E_zpskmtuprla.jpg
http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/The%20Yellow%20Peril/E41D91A3-15F8-429D-8C4C-9DB5FB398872_zps7sfbpvow.jpg
Here's the Leda Struts freshly overhauled complete with new longer Piston Rods for the new setup. More pics to follow once I've finished fitting them.
http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/The%20Yellow%20Peril/56B2C338-B053-425C-8A7C-50E2BE40BC01_zpszutbp0lj.jpg
TYFN :D
Gearbox selector fork in green :agree:
What happened to the trigger wheel sensor bracket? :D
What we do know is that this colour combination has never been done before, hehe. :cool:
Woznaldo
08-01-2016, 13:22
Gearbox selector fork in green :agree:
What happened to the trigger wheel sensor bracket? :D
What we do know is that this colour combination has never been done before, hehe. :cool:
Ha ha, I'm actually on a tight deadline but would have loved to clean up the gearbox, crank sensor bracket and few other things, but just need to get it running. ;) ....it will bug me though!
Woznaldo
10-01-2016, 12:23
Well, I put the last bits and pieces on the engine in the bay, purged the fuel system. I then ran the engine on the starter for a few seconds a prime the oil system, but the oil pressure light didn't go out and I didn't want to run the engine any loner as I was worried about the new Cam.
I hooked up the ignition and cranked the old girl into to life for about ten seconds and heard fluid pouring out from somewhere, so I shut down straight away. After a bit of investigation I soon discovered it was oil pouring out from the Flywheel end. My first thought was the new crank seal wasn't seated correctly but that wasn't it.
I had a look at my spare block and it soon became clear. In my urgency to get the car back on the road, I have not fitted the core plugs into the block oil channel under the Cam. You can actually see it in post #282. :ashamed:
I'm not sure if I will need to pull the engine completely out or whether I can just seperate it in place? Oh well, we live and learn! :crap:
Take it all out again buddy,
You might have to take the clutch off and give it alot of brake cleaner if it's been soaked in oil.
Had the oil feed banjo bolt come loose once at speed and filled bell housing with oil, saved clutch with about 5 litres of brake cleaner poured into the clutch whilst brother operated the clutch pedal.
Woznaldo
10-01-2016, 22:18
Fordy,
I'm actually moving house, so I've sprayed a load of degreaser down the flywheel and parked the car up at a friends. I'll do the move and come back for the car with a trailer and do it all properly.
Ah crap :sad:
So easy to miss something on such a detailed rebuild.
Woznaldo
11-01-2016, 19:47
Ah crap :sad:
So easy to miss something on such a detailed rebuild.
I'm a bit annoyed at myself, but I was working in a small space with stuff everywhere. I lost a lot of time just loosing small parts and tools down the side of this and that and having to move large parts to find them again.
The new place has a double garage!!!
Double garage? What I'd give for a bloody single garage! Lol. Our new place has a shed. Great. :rolleyes:
Woznaldo
12-01-2016, 10:10
Gotta admit, the Aussie housing is a little more generous in that department, but I've been living in inner Sydney for the last two years, so 'doing it tough' with only the single! :D
:D
Show us a pic of the new place when you get chance :agree:
Woznaldo
17-01-2016, 07:59
Here's the garage and part of the collection....
http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/2A8D621A-9583-4AED-8B08-796A8F6BB6B3_zpsm4im7yyo.jpg
http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/B7B7D308-109A-4223-9C14-E791EB075D78_zpslqxw3hpm.jpg
Still unpacking and the Box Trailer will be kicked outside once unloaded. I'm also selling the Mini as I simply don't have the time. :(
Matt Cole
17-01-2016, 09:44
Here's the garage and part of the collection....
http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/2A8D621A-9583-4AED-8B08-796A8F6BB6B3_zpsm4im7yyo.jpg
http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/B7B7D308-109A-4223-9C14-E791EB075D78_zpslqxw3hpm.jpg
Still unpacking and the Box Trailer will be kicked outside once unloaded. I'm also selling the Mini as I simply don't have the time. :(
Very nice mate. Plenty of space.
Yep, super cool. Envious. :agree:
Woznaldo
22-01-2016, 23:52
I still haven't picked the car up yet as I want to get everything settles in my new place first. I the mean time here's a few pics of the new Top Mounts in place.
http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/The%20Yellow%20Peril/6C9BD310-99E8-4E60-94BA-28DD8B9B0AAA_zpsc4ook84d.jpg
http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/The%20Yellow%20Peril/17E52044-353C-403D-AF71-ED689E52EC66_zpshsodgv4t.jpg
As you can see from the above pics, I had to remove some metal from around the Strut Towers so the Piston Rod had some clearance. I don't intend to do too much adjustment with these while I'm still running the std track, but when the wide track setup goes on (no idea when), this is when these will pay dividends.
I'm going to have to readjust the camber at the strut base to put it back to somewhere sensible. It looks like its at about -6 or -7 degrees!
http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/The%20Yellow%20Peril/5CF5517A-50D1-4D05-86A0-1DDE82453FA8_zpsx1lnp2lc.jpg
Here's a pick of the 'missing' core plug from the block oil way (my spare block). :cry:
http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/The%20Yellow%20Peril/D30CABC6-EE65-4C55-A888-8A88DCE4BE43_zpsxbxnasux.jpg
Hopefully I'll pick the car up next weekend.
Woznaldo
19-02-2016, 09:44
Car now at my new house. And so it begins......
http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/The%20Yellow%20Peril/4C355A3C-C16F-453A-AC2E-252F55363EB7_zpsn3hcyjxr.jpg
Hopefully engine out tomorrow.
Woznaldo
21-02-2016, 03:52
So, engine is now out. No oil on clutch plate! Going to drain the oil inspect the bearings and also pull the camshaft and inspect that too. Let's hope I haven't destroyed everything!! :crap:
http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/The%20Yellow%20Peril/FD1C9010-2F22-4231-8BB0-089C2DA7D1E2_zpsxgrtxzh8.jpg
http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/The%20Yellow%20Peril/075834BC-2CBD-4778-A850-A87BD6825F7A_zpsrorr1erm.jpg
http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/The%20Yellow%20Peril/2A2FDA0A-74BD-4EC6-A5E2-C650557B74E1_zpsy7xkfc9u.jpg
http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/The%20Yellow%20Peril/028CABA9-C8E5-4F2F-BDA6-18F98D8E3750_zpsgi1frsvq.jpg
http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/The%20Yellow%20Peril/22CFE000-5E34-4679-8DFE-555AFB1B8AFB_zpsqcw2ewq0.jpg
So far so good.....
Matt Cole
21-02-2016, 10:49
Afternoons work there mate! Hope you get it sorted!;)
Is that 2 copper washers between the turbo oil feed banjo and the block?
Looks like 1? There should be one on each side of that banjo connection IIRC. Is the outer one missing?
sure looks like 2 washers when zoomed in.
Oh yeah you're absolutely right :agree: And there's the outer one too. The outer one in the original pic didn't look obvious, making the inner appear to potentially be a single.
Woznaldo
22-02-2016, 08:15
Ha ha, good pick up. This was intentional as I slightly deformed the union (not the banjo bolt itself). The extra crush washer has a slightly larger outer diameter and was used to cover the deformity. I have already got another from Bob at CGB and will use it in due course. Good to see you have you eyes peeled! I'll show you the damage when I take it off. ;)
Woznaldo
23-02-2016, 10:53
Here's the offending union.
http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/The%20Yellow%20Peril/FA8F6676-6D4F-47CC-94C9-56444F592C61_zps8dlm1drz.jpg
I've pulled the followers and they look good, as does the Cam, but yet to pull it out completely for the full inspection.
Woznaldo
24-02-2016, 01:35
Cam is good!
Woznaldo
24-02-2016, 11:02
Ok, I've checked the crank and the big ends and for any damage and everything looks great. I've now reapplied some assembly lube and torqued everything up again.
Next task is to throw the head back on and check the cam timing again before throwing the sump and timing cover back on. With luck, I might be able to get the engine back in over the weekend..... ....maybe. :D
Woznaldo
25-02-2016, 20:22
Head is now on and valve clearances set. Cam timing check next, then covers etc. it's getting there!
Woznaldo
28-02-2016, 05:46
Cam timing checked. I actually had to make a small adjustment, but happy with the final result. Rocker cover, timing chain cover and sump all back on. Just flywheel and drop it in.
Woznaldo
05-03-2016, 21:52
The car is now trying to annoy me. The oil pressure warning light isn't coming on when I turn on the ignition! :sad2:
I've already started to track it down, so hopefully it won't hold me up for too long. Everything else is done.
Woznaldo
11-03-2016, 09:23
OK, at last some success! Engine has now been started and the Cam run in at 2500 rpm for 10 mins, probably more. Had a few little issues like the fan not kicking in and a leak from one of the bleed nipples on the top radiator hose.
The issue that is vexing me at the moment is the idle. I've tried the most obvious thing, the idle valve, which I've cleaned and I've also replaced the o-ring seal.
I can't see any other obvious leaks, but I guess I might need to pull the carb off and double check I haven't got a duff/dry seal somewhere?
The engine seems to run quite well when it's at 2000 rpm and above, so I think it must just be an air leak somewhere?
Good progress :)
You think it's drawing in air somewhere? Maybe the carb base?
Is the idle unsteady, or just too high?
Woznaldo
11-03-2016, 11:23
It's unsteady, but drops really low and then cuts out after some struggle spluttering.
Aye. Could be carb base gasket or idle jet o-ring perished/seated badly? Idle jet blocked?
You're probably way ahead of me though, you usually are :D
Woznaldo
12-03-2016, 09:35
Idle Jet cleaned thoroughly and new seal fitted. New carb base gaskets fitted. No change?
The only thing that's different in the vacuum system is the turbo actuator which was on my hybrid turbo when I fitted it. Like the standard T2 actuator, its a dual port and the second port is open (cup mod). If the diaphragm is split, it might be causing issues? That said, I run a bleed valve so maybe not?
Pesky!
Total guesses: Idle mixture screw o-ring? Accelerator arm returning fully to its base position? Butterfly closing fully? All restrictors fitted? No blockages in the vaccum set-up or collapsed/squished pipes?
Woznaldo
12-03-2016, 11:33
I'm going to give the idle jet another clean, just to be sure and I've also replaced some vacuum hoses for good measure. Will fire her up in the AM and go from there.
Matt Cole
12-03-2016, 15:35
Idle jet will block continuously if the car has just had a build.
Woznaldo
13-03-2016, 07:26
Pulled the whole carb off and blew it through and there's an improvement but still lumpy. Does anyone run a Cat Cams 325 who can confirm what their idle is like?
Woznaldo
16-03-2016, 10:36
Ok. I started the car tonight and it sounded like it was only running on three cylinders, but I decided to let it warm up and take it round the block to see what it felt like. The first run around the block, it struggled, but just as I pulled into the drive it cleared! Still lumpy, but running on all four.
I gave the car a good look over and checked for any leaks. A small amount of oil seeping from my remote filter take-off plate, but other than that, all good.
The leak at the radiator top hose has been fixed with some thin plastic from a take-away container and a new seal cut from some rubber sheet.
Here's a short video to show you what the idle sounds like at the moment. :devil:
http://vid196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/The%20Yellow%20Peril/644911AF-D943-4E35-B4A8-B0CCC3BF1A4A_zps4tkhd0c1.mp4
http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/The%20Yellow%20Peril/th_644911AF-D943-4E35-B4A8-B0CCC3BF1A4A_zps4tkhd0c1.mp4
God it was good to get the old girl out!!
Ahh. If idle is lumpy because it's got an ignition problem, that could be a totally different fix! :):agree:
Woznaldo
16-03-2016, 11:36
When I did the second run the car seemed to pull cleanly once on boost, if a little lean. I'll clean up on the ignition connectors for good measure anyway and see if that makes an improvement?
It might just need the ignition map to be tweeked a little?
I've also been given a T28 from an S15 by a mate, that I might try out. I'm expecting it to be a lag monster, especially with the 0.64 turbine housing!
T28 :devil:
Maybe you have a break in one of the leads or a bad earth somewhere :agree:
Edit - just watched the vid. Dirty sound! Love it. :D
Woznaldo
17-03-2016, 09:12
I haven't haad the chance to check the ignition system connectors, but I've been thinking a bit more about the issue and remember that I tweeked the ignition map around idle to get the engine to idle smoothly on the std cam when I installed the MS1 ECU.
I might need to revisit the map to see if if has any effect. I'll do the other checks first though.
you might find the engine want more idle timing to smooth it out,
I was running 14-15 degrees at idle on my T28 and 285cam, with every degree added i could hear the engine become smoother7
Does sound nice tho, i'll be interested to see your dyno graphs with that cam setup as i might ditch the piper cam and springs for custom springs and a catcam
Woznaldo
18-03-2016, 09:22
Here's my current ignition map. You can see that I lifted the values in the 0-500 rpm range to 15° BTDC and helped a lot during the initial setup. I might increase the timing to 15° in the 500-1000 range for the first to blocks and see how it goes?
http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/The%20Yellow%20Peril/1CA6A2E2-B92F-42CC-A8F0-4699989DC4ED_zpsqiflaion.jpg
Time will tell.
francob80
18-03-2016, 18:33
Cool thread mate. I've enjoyed reading.
A few nice ideas in here for mine in the future too especially around the top struts.
What you might find with doing it that way woz is that you get starter kick back sometimes
Mine in the 20 -80 row starts @ 650rpm which has 10 degrees and @ 2000rpm has 21.5 degrees @3000rpm 33degrees etc.
Found this gave a nice driving feel from roundabouts and junctions etc
Woznaldo
19-03-2016, 00:24
What you might find with doing it that way woz is that you get starter kick back sometimes
Mine in the 20 -80 row starts @ 650rpm which has 10 degrees and @ 2000rpm has 21.5 degrees @3000rpm 33degrees etc.
Found this gave a nice driving feel from roundabouts and junctions etc
Thanks for the advice Fordy, I'll try what you've mentioned above and see how I go.
Woznaldo
19-03-2016, 00:27
Cool thread mate. I've enjoyed reading.
A few nice ideas in here for mine in the future too especially around the top struts.
Thanks Franco, not everything I've tried has gone to plan, but I'm trying to do things that I think will work in the long run with my intended setup.
Woznaldo
19-03-2016, 07:58
I made some changes but they made little difference. This leads me to believe that the problem lies elsewhere?
I also noticed that the engine hunts during idle. You can actually hear it in the video above.
Woznaldo
26-03-2016, 00:04
I thought I'd sort the minor oil leak this weekend, but not entirely sure where it's coming from? I suspect it's from the top take off fitting going to my remote oil filter. In this pic you can see that the top hose runs against the radiator so I want to change that which will also allow me to tighten the take-off boss.
http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/The%20Yellow%20Peril/E086B9CF-0041-413C-ABE7-C620E22CADF1_zpslcheb8du.jpg
I've simply changed the straight fitting for a 45 degree one to kick it away from the radiator before resuming the same route to the filter.
http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/The%20Yellow%20Peril/3421582A-98A5-4D72-99F6-7BBDD79F2D1C_zps0ecf9nko.jpg
I've fire her up and gone for a cheek drive around the block and all appears well. Job done.
Matt Cole
26-03-2016, 08:24
Woz you may have mentioned it but what ecu are you using?
Woznaldo
26-03-2016, 09:32
Woz you may have mentioned it but what ecu are you using?
Megasquirt MS1 running Extra code.
Woznaldo
26-03-2016, 09:37
On the couple of runs I've done the AFR has gone to 13.5 when the engine comes on boost. I'm thinking open the 2nd stage to 1.3, (currently at 1.2).
francob80
26-03-2016, 17:54
How much boost you running Woznaldo ? What's your AC jet ?
Woznaldo
26-03-2016, 20:07
I'm only running 15 psi boost and I think my air corrector is 90? It maybe 100?
francob80
26-03-2016, 20:57
Yeah seems rather lean for only 15 psi.
Woznaldo
27-03-2016, 12:14
I pulled the carb apart completely and blasted it with carb cleaner and compressed air. I also measured the Air Corrector and it was 120, so I swapped it our for a 90 and now it's a bit to rich! Getting 10s during low boost, but never gets higher than 12 at WOT.
Maybe I need to go back up to 100? Or 110?
Woznaldo
09-04-2016, 13:45
Haven't done anything more with the engine, but had a few things give up on me!
The wipers were always a little slow, but since having a battery connected post engine rebuild they seem to be even slower. A lot slower. I pulled the Wiper mech off and after pulling the mech apart, the wiper are spindles have a huge step in them, much like the way door hinges wear.
I also thought I'd give the car a wash, so wound the windows up, only for the LH door window mech to break! I have to admit, I'm not a fan of the R5 window mechs, clio1 and clio2 mechs are much better. Maybe I should go for polycarbonate windows!....
Oh the fun!
Woznaldo
29-04-2016, 07:52
Not much to report as I haven't had much time to give to the car recently, but I have done a few small jobs.
As previously reported, the Wiper Mech was getting slow (really slow) so I ordered a replacement from Bob @ CGB and that arrived a few days ago. Here's the state of the wiper shafts!
http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/The%20Yellow%20Peril/CC7125AC-3EE7-4ADE-AD5C-10DBD6A9732F_zpstwar270b.jpg
http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/The%20Yellow%20Peril/A58788AF-3CBB-44A7-BB45-C5B1D3D4D5DC_zps6yz26cn1.jpg
I also got some new indicator lenses, but need to make a few adjustments before fitting them.
Finally, I've drilled the AC Jet to 1.0mm, so hopefully not as rich on initial application of the throttle. Road test soon.
Cool Woz :agree: Inching forward.
What are the new wiper shafts like in comparison the old? Those splines look worn but difficult to tell by how much.
Woznaldo
30-04-2016, 01:32
Cool Woz :agree: Inching forward.
What are the new wiper shafts like in comparison the old? Those splines look worn but difficult to tell by how much.
New mech is a lot better. The wiper action is smooth, so a vast improvement!
I'm going to attempt a repair on the window mech, but going to look at some polycarbonate too.
Woznaldo
01-05-2016, 02:44
I drilled the AC jet out to 1.0mm and it didn't seem to change too much. Still quite rich on initial throttle application. I then took the car to a quiet straight road for some fourth gear pulls from the 2000 rpm to bed in the piston rings a bit better. During these pulls the car was tending to lean out towards 4500-5000 to about 13.5 AFR before I lifted. I might open the sencond stage to 1.3mm?
Woznaldo
24-05-2016, 12:49
Ok, now that I've completed the initial run in and changed the oil to a full synthetic I've decided to get into the EFI conversion! So I've pulled the carb and inlet manifold off and loosely fitted the fabled Alliance Multi-point manifold. I'll now work out loom lengths and the FPR location and pipe run. Here's a few pics.
http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/The%20Yellow%20Peril/4BD1BCCB-0765-4F7A-B008-42DC2BC97CC5_zpsssn4y9nr.jpg
http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/The%20Yellow%20Peril/08CA9FCD-51F4-4ABD-8177-230F039EE18E_zpstrchwpl8.jpg
http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/The%20Yellow%20Peril/EE179946-0BE1-4E3C-8DAB-3D3AC19620E2_zpsqis9ijur.jpg
I haven't got a lot of spare time these days so progress won't be rapid, but I'll get pics up as it happens.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3khTntOxX-k :laugh:
Woznaldo
25-05-2016, 04:06
Too true! :laugh:
Woz,
How did you fit your Renault oil gallery plugs?
Renault manual has a special tool Mot.111 and to be pressed in :rolleyes:
Woznaldo
30-05-2016, 12:54
Woz,
How did you fit your Renault oil gallery plugs?
Renault manual has a special tool Mot.111 and to be pressed in :rolleyes:
Fordy, I just used a socket that was very close to the ID of the plug hole and bashed it a few times. The aluminium squashes and fills the gap. Pretty much the same deal with the Cam plug. It's concave and so expands when give it a little love tap.
Woz
I got a bit eager and took it upon myself after i posted
found out the locking pin for my engine stand is perfect size/concave shape for the plugs, I applied some green studlock loctite to them before giving it a good few hit with a 2lb lump hammer seems pretty secure now
Woznaldo
24-06-2016, 10:46
I got a bit of time off work at the moment so I decided to put a bit of effort into my EFI conversion. Today I removed the std FPR and fitted my Aeromotive FPR together with fuel lines to the Fuel Rail and FPR.
http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/The%20Yellow%20Peril/407C0C3B-FEBA-4546-B60A-D0F2E37CF595_zpsrwdr6qcs.jpg
I also started on the loom. I had some bits prepped from a while back, so it was just a case routing and slapping a bit of heat shrink over the top. It's not the neatest job, but will get me going and I can then refine the loom after she's up and running.
http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/The%20Yellow%20Peril/987C38B1-EDD4-4557-A49C-BBDFE35A2824_zpsnbrqb9c6.jpg
http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/The%20Yellow%20Peril/DC5E7DDA-B2EC-4CD1-937F-73A467593ECE_zpsgdlvtakh.jpg
I'm not happy with how the loom is sitting and it hasn't got the IAT Sensor loom and TPS loom incorporated yet, but as before, it's a start.
So the bits remaining are, fitting the IAT somewhere before the Throttle Body, mounting the Throttle Body and somehow sorting the boost hose connection from Throttle Body to SMIC. I've also got to sort some kind of idle control valve and plug the redundant holes on the Alliance Manifold.
Who knows, this might be completed quicker than expected!
Woznaldo
24-06-2016, 10:54
I do have one other 'potential' issue that may required attention. The right side of the Alliance Manifold has a core plug/welsh plug in the end and I'm wondering how much boost it will take before it pops out? I'm tempted to pull it out now and machine the end so I can bolt an end cap on? Or, just suck it and see?
http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/The%20Yellow%20Peril/F6AB7EAE-E230-49B3-A406-2468B9F3E378_zpsvxsqwzax.jpg
One to think on perhaps??....
Woznaldo
28-06-2016, 13:24
I've decided to use a Vacuum Block to better manage all the boost/vacuum customers (FPR, MAP Sensor, Turbo Actuator and Brake Servo). Not purchased one yet, but looking.
Are there similar core plugs in the GTT that are under pressure? It looks pretty meaty. I'd probably give it a go as-is.
Turn an aluminium blank on a lathe and tig weld in place
Woznaldo
02-07-2016, 01:25
Turn an aluminium blank on a lathe and tig weld in place
That is easily done. I even have access to a welding magician and a machine shop! Preferably I'd like to remove the core plug as it could fall out (into the plenum) during the welding process, but I guess I'd just tip it out the Throttle Body entrance?
Woznaldo
08-07-2016, 04:42
Ok, as you can see from earlier posts, I'm using a Throttle Body from a Clio1 Valver. I'm using this as it flows well and bolts straight onto the Alliance Manifold. What I've gained with the ease of bolting to the Manifold, I've partially lost due to the 'egg shaped' TB inlet that I need to convert to 57mm OD that will allow me to connect it to the current boost pipe setup.
To this end I've been trying to design an adapter to suit. I took some dimensions and threw them into Catia (CAD), hoping that this will hopefully give me something usable and a bit neater than the Air Filter Adapters that are being sold on eBay. Once I have the final design squared away I'll post it up and make it available to all that might want to use it, or part of it.
turbo ted
08-07-2016, 09:48
I still run the Clio throttle body on my drag car and I just proven there's no need to change it after running 9.9sec as I been told by other members to change it:agree:
Catia - I hear designers love this. At Rolls-Royce (aero) back in the day they rolled out NX and most engineers moaned it wasn't as good as Catia.
Matt Cole
09-07-2016, 07:44
I do have one other 'potential' issue that may required attention. The right side of the Alliance Manifold has a core plug/welsh plug in the end and I'm wondering how much boost it will take before it pops out? I'm tempted to pull it out now and machine the end so I can bolt an end cap on? Or, just suck it and see?
http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/The%20Yellow%20Peril/F6AB7EAE-E230-49B3-A406-2468B9F3E378_zpsvxsqwzax.jpg
One to think on perhaps??....
Is it not for the water side? Aren't cote plugs geneally for water expansion/freezing?
michael tierney
09-07-2016, 23:33
when I pressure test the core plugs (new)on the gt turbo manifolds (water of course) there are no problems at 2 bar ......so how much boost are u willing to run??
Maybe I was right after all :wasntme:
Woznaldo
10-07-2016, 13:19
Is it not for the water side? Aren't cote plugs geneally for water expansion/freezing?
Matt, there's no water ways on the Alliance Manifold. They use direct contact with the Exhaust Manifold (on the Alliance original). I actually had to cut part of it away to make it fit properly.
Woznaldo
10-07-2016, 13:22
I still run the Clio throttle body on my drag car and I just proven there's no need to change it after running 9.9sec as I been told by other members to change it:agree:
So what you're saying is, bolt on the Valver TB and hello 9.9s!?............:D
Woznaldo
10-07-2016, 13:27
How have you adapted your Valver TB for turbo use (fitment)?
EDIT: I found some pics on your profile and it looks like you used the adapter from eBay (France) for you initial conversion, but now you've made something more substantial?
Woznaldo
23-07-2016, 11:23
Here's a pic of the Adapter Plate I've been working on using CATIA. I'm new to the software and still adapting from AUTOCAD, so it's not quite there yet, but you get the idea.:D
http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/The%20Yellow%20Peril/Clio1%20TB%20Adapter%20Plate-CATIA_zps0f21z0ly.jpg
Here's a pic of the Adapter Plate I've been working on using CATIA. I'm new to the software and still adapting from AUTOCAD, so it's not quite there yet, but you get the idea.:D
http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/The%20Yellow%20Peril/Clio1%20TB%20Adapter%20Plate-CATIA_zps0f21z0ly.jpg
If you're having any problems modelling, I don't mind helping where possible.
I use Solidworks, but can save the part off as a generic 3d file for you to open in Catia. :agree:
Matt Cole
25-07-2016, 13:43
roughly how much would a component like that cost to produce?
Woznaldo
26-07-2016, 13:23
If you're having any problems modelling, I don't mind helping where possible.
I use Solidworks, but can save the part off as a generic 3d file for you to open in Catia. :agree:
Thanks Leigh, but I've got plenty of guys to point the way, it's just getting the time to do it as I don't have the software at home.
roughly how much would a component like that cost to produce?
There's a local Engineering firm that do individual pieces for reasonable money, but I still think it'll cost A$150-200 including material. That said, I might be able to get in knocked up at Uni, in which case It'll only be the cost of the material! It should be noted that the finished plate will still need pipe welding to it, so the whole piece would be around A$300 if completely outsourced. Completely unrealistic as a production piece, but hopefully it'll look pretty!
Woznaldo
06-10-2016, 11:33
I haven't had a lot of spare time this year, but I have managed to get a couple of jobs ticked off. I finally completed the the EFI wiring! Here's the relay board with Deutch Connecters (pricy, but well worth the cost!).
http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/The%20Yellow%20Peril/2A28564E-0F64-42BB-8289-A86B272D37FF_zpsdmqkpqys.jpg
I've also gone for a bit of a retro styling mod. I'm sure it won't be to all tastes, but I really like the end result.
http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/The%20Yellow%20Peril/5BF57C14-216B-4589-86AF-420C59E62640_zpsrwwn8kfj.jpg
:D
Ha, love it. Though I'd prefer a different wheel colour :D
Woznaldo
10-10-2016, 21:16
Ha, love it. Though I'd prefer a different wheel colour :D
I'd prefer a whole different set of wheels. Willy Wheels are one of my all time favs!
Woznaldo
12-12-2016, 02:55
Here's the car with the tyres on.
http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/The%20Yellow%20Peril/53468187-5511-42C5-BED8-49688FDA30CF_zps7duv2zla.jpg
Woznaldo
18-04-2017, 13:21
I've been pretty busy for a while, but over the last week found some time for the 5. Got the rest of the EFI plumbed in, if a little crudely! Tried to fire her up but just got coughing. Found a couple of simple faults so will fix them up and have another crack.
Woznaldo
19-04-2017, 14:29
Ok. I've been messing around with ideas for a throttle body adaptor, but having an idea that looks the part, is actually machinable and doesn't cost a packet is another matter altogether!
I decided that I don't actually need that to start the car, so after I've fixed the little faults I'll try to fire the old girl up again. :D
Woznaldo
03-07-2017, 06:55
Small but positive update. Had some issues with my Megasquirt1. Turned out the main issue was me understanding how the settings worked! Anyway, the engine fired up on MS1 and Alliance Manifold for the first time today. I won't lie, brought a smile to my face!:D
Idle is very high at 2500 rpm, so I must have an air leak somewhere.
Hopefully I'll have some progress to report soon!
https://youtu.be/ekDJKoi6b0Y
Matt Cole
03-07-2017, 16:26
More pics !!!:D
Woznaldo
03-07-2017, 21:20
I'm in exam period at the moment, but will get some up later in the week.
Woznaldo
05-07-2017, 08:27
Ok. Found the air leak. There was a blind hole on the Alliance manifold that isn't blind! I'm now in a position to get tuning!
Woznaldo
12-07-2017, 09:32
This bloody car!!!!! I took the liberty of upgrading to MegaSquirt 2 with Extra code and at the same time do a couple of mods to allow me to run a PWM Idle Valve (Bosch 3 wire) and Boost Control. All went fairy well, after some minor confusion on how to mod my now obsolete V2.2 PCB (current PCB are V3). The car fired up fairly easily and I was almost at the stage of being able to hit the dyno.
While trying to start the car I've been having issues with the starter (which was new 2 years ago). It would click, click, click and then go after any random number of clicks, so I thought I'd do the mod suggested in the articles section (http://www.rtoc.org/boards/showthread.php?4724-Click-Click-Click-Click-Vroom-(from-old-site)), but the last few starts before I started the mod made a weird noise like the starter gear wasn't fully engaging on the ring gear?
After conducting the mod, the starter made the same noise only louder now it had a more reliable solenoid energizer power source. I pulled the starter off, but other than some minor wear to starter gear it looked fine? I still had my old starter, so chucked that on, but it was a lot slower and after a few attempts it would stop?
When I got out the car after the last attempt, I noticed that there was some fuel under the engine bay?
Where will it end!?
I'll take a look tomorrow, but a VERY frustrating day today. :crap:
Woznaldo
13-07-2017, 09:17
The plot thickens! I pulled the spark plugs, pulled the fuel pump fuse and injector bank fuses and turned the engine over. a shit load of fuel came firing out of the spark plug holes!!
The starter was obviously fighting a hydraulic lock, which is a little worrying, but the engine did seem to turn over quite freely with the plugs out, so hopefully no long term damage?
Not sure why there is so much fuel being thrown into the engine during cranking, but I'm reviewing settings and we'll see how we get on? Probably through it on the MS on the Stim to make sure all is well.
Charging the battery tonight so she's good to go for tomorrow.
Matt Cole
13-07-2017, 13:32
Ive no experience on the Squirt ECU's, but i would look at the water temperature compensation table and the cranking fuel.
Woznaldo
13-07-2017, 15:57
Hi Matt, MS2 uses a percentage of the main fuel table and coolant temp. I compared the injector pulse width (PW) with what was workinng on MS1 for me to what was being shown for cranking with my MS2.
MS2 is cranking at 4.5 ms, while MS1 was cranking at 2.6 ms for the same temp? I've adjusted to 2.6 ms and will see how that goes in the morning.
Matt Cole
13-07-2017, 21:47
That should make a big difference as the injectors should not be open as long. :agree:
Woznaldo
14-07-2017, 09:53
I'm now really worried I may have some damage!? The engine, while very clean, smelled very strongly of petrol and was very runny. I have drained the oil and refilled with some 20W60 to help pick up any other fuel contaminated oil. I'm also going to get a compression tester in the morning to check the health of the engine and it's ability to build pressure.
Hopefully I haven't trashed my brand new (but already run in) Cat Cam? :crap:
Matt Cole
14-07-2017, 13:09
:crap: fingers crossed. Was anything evident in the oil?
I think you would be very unlucky to do any damage cranking on a starter motor, if it carried on cranking whilst initially being hydraulic, then I would be worried.
I would go over every setting. This is what I don't like about megasquirt and why I am using something else on my 5.
I found that certain parameters went back to a default value when a new map was uploaded, upgrading the firmware also does they same. Stuff like lambda calibration and various other basic setting all change to a default value...and can catch you out!
If you have your previous map, screen shot and print out each input box, and relate this to the new map on the new firmware and cross check everything. Your required fuel may have changed to a default value?
Woznaldo
15-07-2017, 02:05
I think you would be very unlucky to do any damage cranking on a starter motor, if it carried on cranking whilst initially being hydraulic, then I would be worried.
I would go over every setting. This is what I don't like about megasquirt and why I am using something else on my 5.
I found that certain parameters went back to a default value when a new map was uploaded, upgrading the firmware also does they same. Stuff like lambda calibration and various other basic setting all change to a default value...and can catch you out!
If you have your previous map, screen shot and print out each input box, and relate this to the new map on the new firmware and cross check everything. Your required fuel may have changed to a default value?
I think it has come down to a settings thing. I have the 3 point calibration resistance numbers for my particular CLT sensor, so plugged them in, but didn't really understand what the 'bias resistor' value should be, and that meant the ECU thought the engine was colder than it was and dumped a load of fuel into cranking. That together with the different parameters (i.e. percentage of main fuel table compared to MS1 raw millisecond setting) meant that is was a worst case scenario.
The oil was pretty clean as it hasn't run very much, so no carbon. There was some general 'running in' fine particles in the sump, but that was it.
Compression tester now in hand, so I'll know soon. :sos:
Woznaldo
15-07-2017, 02:44
Results of the compression test were a bit inconclusive? This is what I got on a cold engine with an old starter cranking quite slowly:
No.1 - 82.5 psi
No.2 - 80.0 psi
No.3 - 90.0 psi
No.4 - 80.0 psi
I cranked for 5 sec on each cylinder and every cylinder held pressure for 60 seconds.
I'm putting the battery on charge now and will have another go tonight or when fully charged.
When I've done compression tests I keep it cranking until there is no further pressure rise, rather than crank for a given time.
Did you have the throttle wide open?
Woznaldo
15-07-2017, 23:12
Yes, throttle wide open and while I say 5 secs, the pressure had stabilized.
I'm going to do the comp test again this morning with the fully charged battery.
Woznaldo
16-07-2017, 03:39
So cold here at the moment. CLT at 5 deg C! Engine really slow turning over, but got 5 psi lower across the board. Not looking good. I'm going to try to warm the engine externally with a small heater before one last attempt. After that it's engine out and inspect!
Are you doing the compression test with all the spark plugs out? That what I did, I think.
Woznaldo
16-07-2017, 08:41
Are you doing the compression test with all the spark plugs out? That what I did, I think.
Yes, all spark plugs were out and throttle fully open. I even heated the engine up today 30 deg C, and the test was the same as the first.
I've started pulling bits off the engine in prep to pull it out and give everything the once over.
either way is fine ian std pistons normally are around 140 psi yours are even ish have you got low comp pistons ?
but does need to turn over well
btw ive had hydraulic lock on the f7r before but noticed quickly it didnt do any damage at all
Woznaldo
16-07-2017, 12:40
either way is fine ian std pistons normally are around 140 psi yours are even ish have you got low comp pistons ?
but does need to turn over well
btw ive had hydraulic lock on the f7r before but noticed quickly it didnt do any damage at all
I have std pistons and rods and the head thickness is 73.5 ish. The motor isn't turning over very well though. I'll continue with the engine removal as it'll give peace of mind if nothing else.
Who knows, might be an excuse to go forged?........
those pressures are not good in that case ours was std pistons new everything and a 73.5 head with 1.9 head gasket got 140/145 on all cylinders bud not sure if the lock has caused the low pressures but i binned engine n got new liners etc with pressures like that, ours was rings but i renewed everything
hope this helps
francob80
16-07-2017, 20:36
Try another comp tester. I had these readings cold and a less than 1000 mile rebuilt engine. I used another good quality comp tester and got 140-145 across all 4.
The crappy chinese Machine Mart comp tester was totally shit.
Woznaldo
17-07-2017, 09:03
The engine will be out soon, so I'll have look at what, if any damage has occurred. If nothing seems amiss I'll throw her back together with new rings and do the comp test with a different tester. Might actually do a comp test on my Datsun with the one I've got.
Woznaldo
03-08-2017, 12:21
Engine has been out for a few days, but only got around to pulling the head off tonight. Pushrods all look straight (I'll do a proper check later). I'll check the valves to see if they are seating/sealing properly over the weekend. There is a strong smell of fuel in oil still which is a bit alarming!
Head Gasket looks brand new still.
Maybe the low comp test results are down to the slow starter, as previously suggested? I'd hate to put everything back together and for nothing to have changed?
francob80
04-08-2017, 14:57
Your low comp was down to shitty comp tester, should of tried another before pulling it apart.
I always find leak down testers are worth using to fault diagnose low compression on a cylinder. Cheap to buy too.
Woznaldo
05-08-2017, 08:57
Your low comp was down to shitty comp tester, should of tried another before pulling it apart.
I'm still not sure that it was. I will do a comp test on my Datsun and see how that goes. I think it was more likely the old starter motor?
All of this is just guess work until a fault can be found or substantial evidence discovered.
I have now pulled the head off and know that all of the pushrods are straight, there are no scores or grooves in the cylinder bores and the head gasket is in good condition.
Woznaldo
15-01-2018, 09:01
Not had much time on the five over the last few months due to Uni and other cars! Engine is all back in and fluids topped up. I pulled the spark plugs and cranked the engine for a while to prime the oil system and that worked fine. Plugs back in and the 'uprated' starter wouldn't fully engage and made a horrible grinding noise! I've ordered a new Lucas OEM Starter from CGB and will have another crack when it gets here.
If it's the same 'uprated' unit that used to do the rounds they are more susceptible to the heat (so fail quite quickly), and often have a problem with gearbox dowels IIRC (hence the grinding). It's possible to sort out quite easily from what I remember though.
Woznaldo
19-01-2018, 08:17
It was working fine. I took my time to ensure the dowels were in the right location and it picked up the flywheel ring gear perfectly. I think the prolonged use killed it. I put the old starter on and that still worked, although quite slowly, hence wanting a new one. Anyway, I bit the bullet and got a new one from Bob at CGB. Should be here next week.
Woznaldo
04-04-2018, 01:59
So with the new std starter fitted, I had another attempt at getting the car running. Long story short, I had a sticking #3 injector that was over fueling and sent me on a wild goose chase! With that fixed (injector replaced) I had another crack at getting the car running on MS2. I made a couple of changes to the fuel table and checked the condition of the spark plugs. On the second spark plug check I managed to strip the thread on #1 Cylinder!....
http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/The%20Yellow%20Peril/70321CCA-581F-40CC-AB37-5A482469D083_zpsubsw8fy7.jpg
So once again it’s two steps fed, one step back.
I’ll helicoil the head and have another attempt!
Update required here Woz....
Woznaldo
11-11-2018, 06:31
Ok. Not much to say really as I have been deep in study (Mech Engineering) and working on my other cars. That said an offer came along that I just couldn't say no to, so on Tuesday I will pick up an RS200 parts car. It has the engine, box and suspension plus the loom. Interior and instruments are gone so probably not worth rebuilding. What does this mean? Well I'll pull the C1J out and pull it apart again as there's still far too much fuel in the oil! I'll do a mock fit up of the F4R with the 6 speed and investigate just what needs to be fitted to get the 6 spd box in.
In the mean time I've got a complete set of genuine Bosch Green Giant injectors, so that the engine should be good to go back in the car of the winter (my summer). I can then get whatever I need together for F4R swap. I'll also do the widetrack conversion at the same time (makes sense), and then figure out how I'm going to cover the extra track width (+50mm each side!)
Onward and upward.
Woznaldo
07-04-2020, 07:50
Well I thought I'd make a little update, so here goes. As alluded to above, I've been doing full time study and only finished at the end of 2019.
I've checked all the bottom end bearings on the engine and they're all fine. I've relieved the head of some material from the pushrod holes so it's ready for upgraded rods in the future. I've also measured up the spacing on the rocker assembly to make up some brass spacers.
Currently I'm rebuilding the rear suspension and replacing the rear axle/beam bushes with deep grove ball bearings. I'm also upgrading the torsion bars and modding the trailing arms to accept Clio RS172 Stub Axles and Brake Caliper mounts. This will give me the ability to adjust camber and toe at the rear using shims.
Here's a link to the orignal thread for the rear axle bearing mods: https://www.rtoc.org/boards/showthread.php?20939-rear-axle-bushes&highlight=rear+camber
Not started it yet, but I also want to modify the front cross-member to make the radiator/intercooler fit better.
All of this was aimed at getting the car ready to compete at a loocal Hillclimb event in August, and perhaps attempt the New South Wales state championship next year. COVID-19 may have scuppered those plans, but the work can continue.
****WARNING*** All of the pictures in this thread are hosted by Photobucket and as such they will probably fall over in the near future. I'm trying to relocate them, but Photobucket aren't making it easy!!!
Woznaldo
23-05-2020, 02:58
Decided to remove the front cross-member to make room for a V-Mount Intercooler. I'll be reinforcing the remaining front cross-member end and adding a replacement bolt on cross-member.
https://i.imgur.com/uzhnRoL.jpg
First cut RHS
https://i.imgur.com/aifRZP3.jpg
Cross-member off!
https://i.imgur.com/3wT7JRy.jpg
I'll cap and box the ends with plates and captive nuts. This will allow me to bolt on my replacement cross-member.
Woznaldo
23-05-2020, 03:30
I've finally worked out how to get images up using imgur, as seem above, so here's how I modded the rear beam to to accept RS Clio 172/182 axle pin and caliper carrier so I can adjust camber and toe (just like the 172/182).
Std axle pins removed with a big hammer. It took some freakin' big swings and only moved 1-2mm each time. Heat would have made it easier!
https://i.imgur.com/cLyOZJG.jpg
Better shot with pins removed. Note serrations to locate the pin and prevent spinning.
https://i.imgur.com/DwYh4sc.jpg
The hub-centric should needs to be removed. Pretty easy with an angle grinder and a cut off wheel.
https://i.imgur.com/jn1umr8.jpg
Here's the 172/182 axle pin and caliper carrier.
https://i.imgur.com/9UIfuPD.jpg
Here they are bolted on to the GTT trailing arm. The std GTT uses M8x1.0 countersunk torx bolts to hold the std caliper carrier in place. These need to be removed, holes drilled out and tapped to M10. The std 172/182 axle pin and caliper carrier are secure with 3 x M10 and 1 x M8 countersunk torx bolts. On the 172/182 they pass all the way through and have nuts on the back. This can't be done with the GTT trailing arm, hence the reason for tapping all four to M10. This also means the 8.0mm hole in the axle pin and caliper carrier need to opened up to 10.0mm or 10.5mm.
https://i.imgur.com/x8PItHZ.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/kP4rWUg.jpg
Finally with the std GTT rear discs. I'm going to use 172 or maybe something a little more trick. That way I can get wheel speed from the ABS sensor.
https://i.imgur.com/QIMNrMd.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/PbBkaTG.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/ff5ZTRi.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/FllYpWE.jpg
Very nice.
How do you adjust the camber and toe?
Matt Cole
23-06-2020, 23:16
I've been wanting to do this for ages. I can't seem to find a rear set of ph1 172 rear stub axles. I'm also wanting to run 205 series tyres but worried they might rub if using the 172 stuff?
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