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I'm after some ideas on the above. I know big steve has done it so would be eager to hear your ideas big man.
Long story short, my new audi box is hydro only so I need to shoe horn in a clutch master clyinder. No space in the bay, I think it'll have to sit behind the dash somewhere. Looking to see what cars I can nick suitable bits from. I don't have the time these days to go snooping around breakers for ideas like I used to :D
There's a member on here called a1raider he Has converted his 5 to hydrolic clutch.we nearly bought his car and on the test drive it felt spot on
Handy has one on his compound charged rear engine conversion but i guess he has more room to play with.
not sure if it's aftermarket or he has retro fitted a senic/megane set up
Do we know if the Clio 1 ever came with a hydro setup or always cabled ?
very good thread this Mr Scoff :agree:
I'm also in need of some ideas for the 11 as the megane box is also only hydro :sad2:
i made a alloy plate with existing bolt holes drilled and then drilled and fitted wilwood master cylinders to alloy plate(between existing bolt holes) ,i then bought a slave cylinder of ebay (new item £10 old toyota corrola i think)) and formed a steel right angle bracket which i attached to gearbox using the existing gearbox bolt holes ,then fitted slave cylinder to that which pushes on to the existing clutch arm and engages clutch,used braided dash 4 hose and m10 x1 fittings,also slave cylinder has 31mm travel which is more than enough to engage my paddle clutch, only thing i still havent done is retro fit a pedal stop, to stop clutch pushing to far !! im not running servo unit and engine up front , would be best to fit a reverse mounted pedal assembly(rally design etc...)or fabricate new structure of existing pedal assembly to accept mastercylinder (reverse mount) and use the exsisting clutch maybe:)
dont think any of the clios ,lagunna,megane ran a hydro clutch system , pretty sure the r25turbo did with the un1 gear box ,although that was an inline engine same as turbo2 so prob wont work:crap:
I think that latter bit is what I'll end up doing andy. I think I could throw away some more dashboard and fit a universal type (with integral resevior thing) inside the cabin, reverse to normal and hook it up to the existing pedal. I just think it might be a ballache experimenting to get the right amount of travel since I don't know how much release my new clutch will need.
:) l use about 60% of my slave cylinder push rod travel to engage clutch, i dont think you will get more than 35mm travel on any oe item, i looked at the wilwood pull type slave cylinder and that was about the same travel, good luck and happy head scratching:scratch::scratch::DQuote:
Originally Posted by Scoff
Hi guys :D can't write much as on the old I-phone.
I just got a complete VW clutch pedal from a breakers & took the master cylinder off it & grafted it onto the Clio pedal. Therefore you've got the right volume & master cylinder sizing etc to successfully operate the clutch slave cylinder.
For you oh Obi Wan Scoff you'd be able to fabricate the two together in your lunch break! ;)
It makes a HUGE difference to the action of the clutch, REAL smooth & light ;)
the 21 turbo had one,
that's probably not much help? but you never know so thought i'd mention incase
there will be nothing light about the new clutch that's going in :D but yes, understood steve. does your cylinder live inside the car ?
Sure does mate, keep on at me & I'll take some pictures for youQuote:
Originally Posted by Scoff
so its a pull type like andy was saying ? IE, lives in front of the pedal below the steering column ?Quote:
Originally Posted by Big Steve - Raider
Erm I'm trying to remember now mate?? However it is actuated as standard on a vw it us actuated the same. if my memory serves me right it's in front of the pedal, yes, but it is actuated in compression using the top of the pedal past the fulcrum point if you get me?Quote:
Originally Posted by Scoff
I'm away for a few days at the mo, but will deffo take some pics for you when I'm home ;)
i made one about 10years ago and hav'nt looked back(so to speak)i modified the pedal to push a rod into the plenum/battery area to operate a mastercyl.i got from demontweeks catalog....and the slave was a toyota hiace item...i'll try to upload pics soon:)
the turbo 2 has a hydraulic clutch mechanism. both the master and the slave are still available as the master cyl is a clio item.....
I used a MK1 toyota MR2 clutch pedal and master cylinder in my and it has a small profile. It's worked well for me but like Handy I have a little more room :)
here's a link to the article I did http://gomodit.blogspot.com/2007/02/...n-febuary.html
And a pic..
http://s3.photobucket.com/albums/y74...rcylinder1.jpg
http://s3.photobucket.com/albums/y74...ylindertop.jpg
Very intersting thread this as I'm just about to do the same :)
I just purchased a brand new cluth cable from reno's and yep it broke the plastic end of as soon as it tensioned.. it basically pulls through the outer sheathing of the cable through the plastic bung thingy (release fork end) :cry:
I seem to recall reading someone using the the swift set up.. But can't find it using the search (maybe was on the temp site, can't remember now)...
Obviously i'm running a C1j, but still should be near on the same at the pedal end :agree:
you have to relocate the washer bottle and i accidently uploaded a pic of my old inner sill!!doh:rolleyes:
Thanks andy/michael
Michael, how is that cylinder connected to the pedal ? I have space in the scuttle so I could do whatever you've done there. I guess you've welded a section into the top of the pedal at right angles so that it pushes up on the cylinder ?
maybe you need a pedal out of a mini?
i got a long m8 bolt and rounded the top to push the piston,i left it threaded on the bottom(with adjusting nuts) and put it through a pin which could rotate in the pedal,off centre of course ,to give it leverage....i'll try to get a pic tomorrow of pedal and fork.i also got a guy to make a custom flexi-pipe.....this set up has served me well for the last 10 years....NEVER had a problem(hope i'm not tempting fate)
That's a neat method!! I might have a look at re-using my old clutch pedal with that configuration as I'm not happy with the positon of the MR2 pedal... Nice to hear it's still serving you well :niceone:Quote:
Originally Posted by michael tierney
Thanks Michael, thats gotta be the easiest way to go about it.
i could'nt really get a decent pic of the pivot on the top of the pedal...its burried!! but i supported the hole i drilled in b/head by putting a few reinforcing brackets in the back of the pedal box and also up from the clutch/brake pivot/pin.i also had the help of a cutaway model:)i think the cylinder is a o.7 girling...on the blue pic u can see a small bit of metal u have to remove and theres a slight difference in the panel height
great stuff, thanks :) I could probably get away with a universal 19mm cylinder. bit bigger than your 0.7" but no doubt it will work fine if I get the travel right at the pedal end.
just some more pics...as far as i can remember i removed the ratchet from the pedal and as u can see on the c1j the slave cyl.actuates on a clutch fork extension....i had the use of a forcemeter at the time and recorded that it saved nearly 30%effort with an absolutly very positive feel !!
This prob won't help, but,
I've got an adjustable bias pedal box with 3 master cylinders, front brake, back brake, clutch.
It's from a grpN corsa/nove and I made an adaptor plate to bolt it to the reno holes. And kept Renault pedals.
It works fine but obviously you can't use it without removing the servo and getting a new brake setup.
This is something i thought of doing a while back due to issues with the cable/pedal mechanism etc. I looked at parts from a fiat bravo which seemed small enough to adapt.
Guys,
Do we have any photos of the "cylnder ram" on to box that operated the "original Folk"
Andy
here's a few of mine, this first one you can see clearly the bit I cut from the mr2 welded to the original fork, I didn't want to use any metal as it might not wear very well
http://s3.photobucket.com/albums/y74...terwelding.jpg
Here's a picture of the bracket, I will try and take of photo of everything together tonight as oddly I don't seem to have a picture of that.
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y74...chbracket2.jpg
any photos of the hydroic cylnder fitted too the box?
I gonna use michael's idea , the pedal is ready , i now need an example how to mount the slave cilinder. any photo's of the brackets?
never mind, i orderd a 'pull' slave cylinder. super simple to mount. :)