B16 turbo build

I though I may as well start a new project thread as I got my grubby mits on a clean un-welded raider shell complete with 67,000 miles from new, full renault service, dash, rear beam, most wiring, o.e wheels, o.e carpet and a few other bits I dont need. I dont know what I am going to do with it as plans change all the time but it will be a nice road car with a bit of poke.

http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/i...8112009129.jpg

http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/i...8112009128.jpg

The side skirts and roof spoiler have already been taken off
Nice clean engine bay.

http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/i...8112009130.jpg

I started taking the front end out of my old tungy as I had planned to use the engine and gearbox .Out in one piece

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Started to pull the engine apart for a quick freshen up but found out that the person I brought the bottom end off had lied about it having a decent cam, turned out to be a standard gt cam. Pulled the pistons out to find that they looked quite worn so these will go in the bin.http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/i...7012010230.jpg

very tidy.. :cool:

All the engine brackets were all dirty and rusty so went off to be blasted then some were sent off for powder coat and the others are being re-plated with zinc to look new:)

Some of the power coated bits

http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/i...2022010255.jpg

My new intercooler and rad set up, I know the intercooler may not be the best option but I dont want a silly long pipe run and I want the exterior of the car to remain standard.

http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/i...3022010263.jpg

If the intercooler and rad were black do you think it would effect the cooling?
Sorry about the quality of pics, it was dark and its a camera phone:ashamed:

cossie 2wd coolers are black,dont think it matters,anodising would be best maybe??,or paint will just flake off an look cack??
:)

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Originally Posted by J$£5GTT

cossie 2wd coolers are black,dont think it matters,anodising would be best maybe??,or paint will just flake off an look cack??
:)

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Thats what I was going to go for, the guy who is plating all my brackets said he would do it all for a decent price. These arrived today, not sure what colour to have them.

http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/i...3022010275.jpg

New poster! (less than 10 posts)

What colour do you want the car to be?, then decide what colour to have your wheels :)

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Originally Posted by mattk

New poster! (less than 10 posts)

What colour do you want the car to be?, then decide what colour to have your wheels :)

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Its a raider its only ever going to be one colour. Why do you think it needs painting?

How about maybe something like anthrocite ? with a polished lip ?

or another type of Dark grey/black...

New poster! (less than 10 posts)

no keep it the raider colour mate :) personally i'd go with a white wheel, i think they look good against a deep blue :)

Damn centre bore of wheels is to small, I will have to have them machined. Whats the size is it 60.2mm. Oh well better get measuring then:crap:

Nice project Rs, will look mint when you finished with it:agree:

Keep updating i like this one :)

Renault centre bore is 60.1mm

Nice and light those Superleggeras

Got some of the brackets back today, just need an engine to put it all on now:(

http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/i...7022010277.jpg

Nice, how much did it cost to get those done?

It's sad when you can sit here & know exactly where everyone of those brackets go! :laugh:

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Originally Posted by Os8472

Nice, how much did it cost to get those done?

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I had it all blasted with some other stuff which cost £80 then the plating on top was £70. Should look quite nice when all put back together.

The other week me and mike had a game of name that bracket and where it goes:laugh:

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Originally Posted by Big Steve - Raider

It's sad when you can sit here & know exactly where everyone of those brackets go! :laugh:

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erm, I'm saying nothing as I can aswell :scared::scared::scared:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Big Steve - Raider

It's sad when you can sit here & know exactly where everyone of those brackets go! :laugh:

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Or where they all came from :wasntme:

So whats happened to the tungy?

So when is the other lump going to pop up ;)

very nice mate, very clean... will be looking forward to read up on this one:cool:

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Originally Posted by Beardo

So whats happened to the tungy?

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Not sure mate, its not mine anymore:crap:

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Originally Posted by rs250nut

Not sure mate, its not mine anymore:crap:

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Bugger!

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Originally Posted by Big Steve - Raider

It's sad when you can sit here & know exactly where everyone of those brackets go! :laugh:

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if you gave me that box id cry!:cry:

Not really an update but a nice addition to the service history and the owners books

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In mint condition like I just got it from the showroom, you would never believe its 20 years old:)

Hopefully picking up the new engine this week, looks a bit funny though:)

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Originally Posted by rs250nut

Hopefully picking up the new engine this week, looks a bit funny though:)

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Do explain?

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Originally Posted by rs250nut

Hopefully picking up the new engine this week, looks a bit funny though:)

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yes whats so funny about it??

:scratch:

From the ebay ad where I brought it from

http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/i...0nut/b16a1.jpg

Is that a B-series lump i spy, this is a conversion i will be watching as iv been thinking about the ins and out of fitting one of these to a 5 since i sold my Civic.

i see the problem, u got a few too many valves there, nevermind. Im sure itll fit with a big hammer.:)

now we're talking :)

good man :agree:

Well taken advice...;)... GT weight + B = 9s......

How much did you pick the enging up for? if you dont mind me asking. im guessing by the hight of the head that its a B18c4 out of a MB civic or teg SI? i think i have a Passwod jdm sump baffel for a b series and possably some other stuff in my garage if your intrested ;)

B16a1 at a guess.

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Originally Posted by Rob@Backyardracing

B16a1 at a guess.

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:agree:
Stupid high revs plus gt35r = Fun times

So whats next plan with this build?

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Originally Posted by Rob@Backyardracing

So whats next plan with this build?

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Im hoping to pick up another engine and gear box as I can build one up and use the other one to help me with engine mounts etc. I might have a look at some civic hubs as well, unless some one can tell me that the gtt or williams shafts are good for the torque. Im also looking into sending the block to the u.s to be sleeved unless I can find someone in this county to do the job.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by rs250nut

Im hoping to pick up another engine and gear box as I can build one up and use the other one to help me with engine mounts etc. I might have a look at some civic hubs as well, unless some one can tell me that the gtt or williams shafts are good for the torque. Im also looking into sending the block to the u.s to be sleeved unless I can find someone in this county to do the job.

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I use 16v clio hubs and gtt outers on the shafts, fine so far.

Id use the renault hubs with custom shafts. Stock sleeves are good for 500hp, but there are places in UK that could sleeve yours, think id leave that stock to start with, i wont be sleeving my B motor in a hurry anyway.. :)

Right the ball is now rolling , I now have a gearbox plus an 83mm sleeved block coming from the states with acl bearings and micro polished and balanced crank. The only reason I went sleeved to start with is because I dont want to have to build it twice. Now I have to decide on a compression ratio, 9.0-1 seems the norm but im wondering if its worth going any higher. If I go higher I assume this will make it trickey to tune, this is another gray area at the moment, I want to lose the dissy and run a coil per cylinder so this rules out hondata s300 module but I dont have an o.e honda ecu so I dont see this as a massive problem. My head is all over the place at the moment im seeing big turbos and shiny exhaust manifolds in my sleep
:sad:

The Hondata S300 is good, plus its full of base maps to start from... and USB connection :) happy days.... What ecu code is the B16? could just use a loom and the P28, seems a few around for not much cash... I mite have a spare loom even..

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Rob@Backyardracing

The Hondata S300 is good, plus its full of base maps to start from... and USB connection :) happy days.... What ecu code is the B16? could just use a loom and the P28, seems a few around for not much cash... I mite have a spare loom even..

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Could be handy to start with as I know feck all about mapping:)

Yea the s300 is a great ecu i used it on my B16 turbo and it gives so much more flexability than Crome or other "chiped" solutions, so are you gunna do the conversion first and run it N/A then boost it or just go all out turbo?

I too will be watching this one closely as I have to admit that the B16A has a lot going for it. One advantage that some forget is that with the gearbox being on the right, the car should be a bit more evenly balanced with the driver onboard?;)

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Originally Posted by RoboEK

Yea the s300 is a great ecu i used it on my B16 turbo and it gives so much more flexability than Crome or other "chiped" solutions, so are you gunna do the conversion first and run it N/A then boost it or just go all out turbo?

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It wont turn a wheel until it has boost:)

Not much of an update but nice either way,Full race in the states are the dogs back wheels, ordered last week and arrived today, what more can you ask for, I asked the missus if I can get another one as a ornement:laugh:

http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/i...9082009002.jpg


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Is it wrong that this manifold is making me feel a bit naughty :laugh:

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Originally Posted by Spooky

Is it wrong that this manifold is making me feel a bit naughty :laugh:

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very

Sweet progress.... :D

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Originally Posted by Rob@Backyardracing

Sweet progress.... :D

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Ive got a few bits for it now although the hard work is still to come, with the harmonic balancer fitted its going to be very tight:eek: If it does not fit I may have to find a crx:laugh:

There prob isnt much difference in weight the a 5 and crx... plus you can compete with a crx... :agree:

This is only round the corner from me

http://www.pistonheads.com/sales/1418911.htm:burnrubber:

Small update, my bottom end is now in the hands of ups on its way back to me:yeah: Although I have lost my double garage due to my old lady moving im still going to crack on with the build on her new drive way with my gear and tools in the corner of the new garage, I would have build it in there but I have been evicted by my little sisters drum kit. I have collected a few parts over the last couple of months (working every minute under the sun) I still need a few bits inlet manifold,turbo,cams etc but I now have something to get me started:) My valve cover is away having two bungs welded into it and at the same place my new fuel tank is being made.

http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/i...6072010052.jpg

Talking of turbos I am still un-decided between the precision 6262 billet, precision 6765 billet or the hta 3586r. Anyone have any thought on this? I know the 6765 works well on the b18's but am wondering wether or not its going to be to big on my little b16

Drove to ashford yesterday with the missus in tow to pick up my head, other than one broken stud im happy with it for £50, bargain. Got home from work today to strip it down for cleaning and shipping. With .5mm oversize supertech valves being inserted, double valve springs and titanium retainers, I would have left it stock but these parts can be a weakness when reving to 11k+, and at a price I could not refuse.

http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/i...8072010065.jpghttp://i262.photobucket.com/albums/i...8072010066.jpghttp://i262.photobucket.com/albums/i...8072010068.jpghttp://i262.photobucket.com/albums/i...9072010072.jpg

After the best part of an hour it was in bits, I could not believe how big the inlet ports were.

£50.... happy days...:)

This week just keeps getting better,got a phone call today from the gf's old lady telling me a box had arrived, feckin get in its here at long last. After waiting nearley two months my sleeved b16 bottom end has arrived:cool2::cool2: Complete with 83mm 9.0-1 c.p pistons with upgraded wrist pins, pauter rods with 3/8'' arp bolts, benson polished and balanced crank, type-r oem oil pump,oem water pump and acl main and rod bearings.

I'm short of a few parts now namely a pair of b series shafts, gear linkages to chop up, two engine mounts and a harmonic balancer and then I can start to fabricate some mounts to hold this puppy in the bay, Im might take a visit to the local scrappy to see if I can chop some out of a civic:devil: Im swaying towards williams bottom arms now to try and push the wheels out of the arches so I can fit wider wheels and still keep the bottom ball joint in the middle of the wheel, my only concern being that this may weaken the shafts being longer,or am I just talking poo:laugh: So I also may need a williams rack and try to make it work without the pas pump.

http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/i...0072010076.jpg

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Sweet.... What kinds sleeves are they? you not go for MIDs... what kinda of cost was your sleeving out of interest? i see exo charge $1100... did you get any prices from over in UK...

I really think you should keep this motor in a honda... even consider joining the HKS, seems your thing.... Once you have built your car and got in it its pretty good fun.. Free entry to events and weekend tickets, never pay for a RWYB again, good pit area, a track prep that you never guna see at a RWYB. Also as you will be msa and have all the gear and licence etc etc you not just limited to HKS, you can entry any sportsman class.. FIA top fuel events if there is a FWD line up, summer nationals, so on..... and all free!!!... plus if you win or get in a final your £££`s in.. winner...

Also you can compare you build better then to the USA guys as the rules here follow there Outlaw SFWD class..

If you stick that motor in a 5 you couldnt do anything but RWYB... still be an awsome car no dout but just somthing i think you should consider before get in to deep...:agree: :)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Rob@Backyardracing

Sweet.... What kinds sleeves are they? you not go for MIDs... what kinda of cost was your sleeving out of interest? i see exo charge $1100... did you get any prices from over in UK...

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Here is a bit of info about the sleeves and the sleeving process.

Why do we choose Benson sleeves.....
What makes a Benson signature series sleeved block better? Several sleeve manufacturers have working designs. Each manufacturer comes about their design by different means. They all work to some degree. All sleeves are made out of the same strength and quality nodular iron as it a necessary material to seat rings. Therefore sleeve strength is determined by bore size and bore centerlines. No matter how fat the sleeve may be, the weak spot is between the cylinders. Nothing is secret about that.

What sets Benson apart from everyone else is the precision of his machine work and his method of installation. First, Benson has no employees, so no rookie or uninterested machinist touches your block. Only Benson. His method of installation insures that a sleeve can never drop, shift or leak. You never have to align bore your block with his sleeves because of the block core shifting. This is because he takes less material from the block during installation than other sleeve designs require. That keeps the block stronger by default and does not let the main saddles move, thus causing the need for an expensive align bore.

The important thing is his name is on every block and there are no excuses. He uses a sleeve designed by himself, manufactured by Darton to his specs and no one else can purchase it from Darton. It has been perfected over the last 10 years to work flawlessly. The real secret is in the person that does the install and the precision quality they demand of themselves. This is what sets Benson way apart from the others.

The original sleeves done by Benson (at least 12 years ago) were closed deck. He soon discovered that within the block, the aluminum, when heating up, was expanding at a different rate than the nodular iron sleeves. This caused the sleeves to distort out of round at operating temperature, thus hurting ring seal. Another benefit of keeping the deck open (as Honda engineers designed it) is the extra cooling that is afforded to the head gasket, thus less gasket failure and more efficient head cooling.

Certain sleeve installers seat their sleeves to the block using only a wedged fit to hold the sleeve in place. They do not butt them to a ledge cut into the block. As the aluminum block heats and expands, the crush can change and allow the sleeve to drop. Others manufacturers use an o-ring for sealing. The o-ring has a receiver groove cut into the outside of the sleeve. Unfortunately this groove weakens the sleeve to the point that high boost cannot be used safely. Benson uses a precision machined interference fit along with a proprietary sealer to insure no sleeve movement or leaks.

I went through Mike at Laskey racing as I told him what I wanted and there was no sort of up sell, you need this and that but dont need this etc, sound guy and he does the sleeving for $975. To be honest I did not bother with anyone over here because the yanks have perfected this art over the years what with all sorts of top fuel drag monsters, nascar, 900hp+ b motors, and I could not find a specialist who had experiance with Honda motors here in the U.K plus I could imagine the cost would be silly over here. The exchange rate is still quite good at $1.5 to the £

Yeah i here the same from alot of peeps about peeps sleeving over here etc etc... im actualy hoping to change that in the next 12months and poss offer a service over here... Sleeving is one of the services we offer and do best on porsches, and designing our own sleeves etc etc at my work with cars coming nationwide even from ireland and porsche main agents on occasions for the work and engineering we do, as we speak we currently have 12 engine rebuilds come in this last week..:) aaarrrrr... killer hours

Anyway Im going to buy some Mid sleeves from darton to copy a cast and will fit them at work.. So in the future me mite be able to offer a service to the honda lads and help us lot out which would be a winner and save us some cash... :agree: We are aswell at the mo going to be doing some machining/sleeve work for one of the UKs fastest honda tuners ;)... no names said...

Now get that engine in a honda and come racing...:smokin: Bring on the B`ssss... sick of these K`ssss

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Rob@Backyardracing

Yeah i here the same from alot of peeps about peeps sleeving over here etc etc... im actualy hoping to change that in the next 12months and poss offer a service over here... Sleeving is one of the services we offer and do best on porsches, and designing our own sleeves etc etc at my work with cars coming nationwide even from ireland and porsche main agents on occasions for the work and engineering we do, as we speak we currently have 12 engine rebuilds come in this last week..:) aaarrrrr... killer hours

Anyway Im going to buy some Mid sleeves from darton to copy a cast and will fit them at work.. So in the future me mite be able to offer a service to the honda lads and help us lot out which would be a winner and save us some cash... :agree: We are aswell at the mo going to be doing some machining/sleeve work for one of the UKs fastest honda tuners ;)... no names said...

Now get that engine in a honda and come racing...:smokin: Bring on the B`ssss... sick of these K`ssss

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Tell me about it with the hours at work, I feel like I live there at the moment

I dont know where to take this now, as rob has pointed out above there are no classes that I can race this car in so what to do? I think im going to try and find a tidy eg civic and throw the engine in that, so that leaves me with the raider, if anyone fancies it give me a shout, if I get offered the right money I will sell it will all the parts I have for it, new o.e front bumper, all bodykit, new springs,gearbox, raider carpet,dash etc etc etc

Good move, i think it will just make you life alot easier to stick with a honda chassis too.. Now get yourself down pod this saturday for rotorstock 7

http://www.rotorstock7.co.uk/

Unsure of our numbers going but i get free tickets so if i have one going ill leave it on gate for you.. :)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Rob@Backyardracing

Good move, i think it will just make you life alot easier to stick with a honda chassis too.. Now get yourself down pod this saturday for rotorstock 7

http://www.rotorstock7.co.uk/

Unsure of our numbers going but i get free tickets so if i have one going ill leave it on gate for you.. :)

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Unfortunately I have to work this weekend like usall so I will have to pass on the offer but thanks anyway:agree:. I will put the final on the 31st of october on my list of things to do though. You ready for this weekend?

The car is running and sounds well.. havnt drove it yet but im spending tomoz night on the dyno over at TDI... Im heading down pod friday morning for a couple test runs.. if the gearbox holds well with the new 24.5 drags then id like to see better than our 10.9et... just have to see.. dont want to kill it as motor is sold... :crap:

Raider is now gone well last month but I may be replacing it with a 1994 civic eg with no sunroof, thats if I win it on the bay. Brought a headgasket from golden eagle last night, its a standard honda item that is sized for my custom bore size with the shipping came to 144 dollars, 44 being the shipping, ****ers. Head should be back from portflow design with in the next two weeks aswell so then I should have the engine complete with head on etc. Still undecided on a turbo though. Also the season starts on march the 21st so it seems I have more chance in $hitting in the queens handbag than being ready unless I find time to earn more money.

What bore you plan to run at? What sarts on march 21st?? :confused: good progress tho buddie... :agree:

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Originally Posted by Rob@Backyardracing

What bore you plan to run at? What sarts on march 21st?? :confused: good progress tho buddie... :agree:

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S**t I was looking at the 2010 calander for the hks series, doh. I went with finished bore size of 83mm and a p2w clearance of .0035 which is what c.p recommend. Some say this is a bit tight for what I am trying to achieve. After talking to Mike about it, I want room for a few rebuilds, blow ups and after 84mm the sleeves get quite thin in the middle. I dont want to have to fork out for another block in a hurry.

Awsome so you fancy the HKS then? the first round is at the Easter Thunder ball, Its a 4 day event and all FIA racing, so no bull**** RWYB days, just top fuelers and the hks.. Racing will be over two days tho, there is a entry fee (which all racers over the weekend pay) of about £150, this will get you 4 qrew passes aswell and electric hook up..If you have a motorhome.. Think we are going to hire one for the weekend..

83mm bore, good stuff, same as us then, think we will be up around 1900cc..

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Rob@Backyardracing

Awsome so you fancy the HKS then? the first round is at the Easter Thunder ball, Its a 4 day event and all FIA racing, so no bull**** RWYB days, just top fuelers and the hks.. Racing will be over two days tho, there is a entry fee (which all racers over the weekend pay) of about £150, this will get you 4 qrew passes aswell and electric hook up..If you have a motorhome.. Think we are going to hire one for the weekend..

83mm bore, good stuff, same as us then, think we will be up around 1900cc..

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I will have to race this now after selling the five and most of my bits to go with it. Looking forward to it though as it should be proper fast. I think the only thing that will stop me being there is money, loads of stuff still to buy, decent shafts, wheels,tyres,turbo,ecu, etc I think I still need another 3 grand to finish. What are you doing for a drivetrain? Motorhome I wish, that would be the bollocks though, how much to rent one for a weekend

I have to cc the chambers when I get the head back but I think i am around 1675, are you using the 87mm crank?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by rs250nut

I will have to race this now after selling the five and most of my bits to go with it. Looking forward to it though as it should be proper fast. I think the only thing that will stop me being there is money, loads of stuff still to buy, decent shafts, wheels,tyres,turbo,ecu, etc I think I still need another 3 grand to finish. What are you doing for a drivetrain? Motorhome I wish, that would be the bollocks though, how much to rent one for a weekend

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All stock, stock shafts and stock box (S9B)... alot of peeps have pulled good times with stock parts.. should be ok up to 145mph, after that i think an investment will be needed.. If i was you id be getting a set of drag wheels sorted soon, specialy if you want exo`s... I wouldnt worry much about the rest other than the cage, you could just run a roll bar for now this will see you down to 10.00et, it does state (or 135mph) but the scrutineers didnt even know that them selves.. WTF.. but another racer might pull you up and start a investigation... Its the clothes that cost, need to save about a grand for all that crap.. :)

The motorhome, well ill leave that into someone elses hands, aint a clue on the costs.. ill just make sure the car gets there..

Stock b18c4 crank... also our c/r be at 9.0:1

What sort of money did you pay hauser to build you a cage? Are you going to be running on pump fuel? I have had my head skimmed to bring the compression up a bit from 9.0-1. Missus is getting proper sour with all the spending, o well cant beay bad luck im life

We sent the car all stripped, no dash etc etc, you need to bin the heater box and heaters too.. This helps them out so basicly they just weld it in.. Think your looking at around £1000-£1100 or summet all in?? This is for the 8.50 spec cage which we run.. You can buy just the pipes all bent for around £200 from him and do the rest yourself if you know a good welder..

Just tell the missus that you win money back :D

Worth trying Andy Robinson aswell regarding a cage... all good builders..

Im also going to have to buy some sort of coilover I suppose as I doubt anyone has an 800lb spring in a convention size spring. Ahh more bloddy research.

Dude id just spend my time getting the car rolling and sorted for hks.. worry about things like that later in the year.. ;)

I just want it to be right straight off the bat, I suppose it not going to happen like that though.

This should be a very interesting project! Defo made the right choice to out the 5, as Rob says, RWYB's are crap!

For the cage you could try http://www.webster-race-engineering.co.uk/ very nice guy to deal with.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by rs250nut

Raider is now gone well last month but I may be replacing it with a 1994 civic eg with no sunroof, thats if I win it on the bay. Brought a headgasket from golden eagle last night, its a standard honda item that is sized for my custom bore size with the shipping came to 144 dollars, 44 being the shipping, ****ers. Head should be back from portflow design with in the next two weeks aswell so then I should have the engine complete with head on etc. Still undecided on a turbo though. Also the season starts on march the 21st so it seems I have more chance in $hitting in the queens handbag than being ready unless I find time to earn more money.

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good choice to sell the raider TO ME woohoo

good luck with the civic mate

Quote:

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Originally Posted by dave r5

good choice to sell the raider TO ME woohoo

good luck with the civic mate

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I hope it turns out nice for you mate, its a very nice shell. Im still a bit gutted I sold it but there you go, the cash has gone to a good cause.

Did you manage get the civic?

Nah the bidding went silly in the end from 190-500 in the last half hour, it was just the ticket though being a 1.3 non sunroof dx with running problems.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by rs250nut

I hope it turns out nice for you mate, its a very nice shell. Im still a bit gutted I sold it but there you go, the cash has gone to a good cause.

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Yeah mate it will be nice half way there now just wording to do. Will eventually put some picks up

Quote:

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Originally Posted by dave r5

Yeah mate it will be nice half way there now just wording to do. Will eventually put some picks up

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Come on Dave get a project thread up, I need some motivation. :agree:

Not a massive update but I received the head gasket the other day from golden eagle, it's an o.e item which is machined out to my bore size of 83mm. I should have had the head back today but dhl messed up, after me paying the import duty it should have been cleared for delivery but it got delayed my some monkey not sending an email, w@nkers. Anyway I hopefully should have the short engine pretty much complete over the weekend. I'm also going to fit the sump pan, a baffled item from moroso with a 3/4 inch thread in the side, I managed to find an adaptor to convert to -10 for the oil return. I can also seal the top end up now aswell, I have had the rocker cover blast cleaned to remove all the old scabby paint and at the same time had some -10 bungs welded in as part of the breather system. See if I can get some pics up but don't have access to a proper computer at the moment.

Any signs of a shell yet mate... just ordered our new blower... :)

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Rob@Backyardracing

Any signs of a shell yet mate... just ordered our new blower... :)

---

Got my eye on a couple of cars including an eg6 vti, maybe this will be the way to go as it will come with a load of bits I need. New blower ah nice what is it? I was sure on a 6765 but may now wait until these new Borg warner efr turbos come out.

If any mods are reading this can I change the thread title?

Good move... :agree: we still have loads of work to do yet and loads of parts needed.. yeah we went for the borg 72mm... not the new efr tho..

S372r ? Is that journal bearing, what exhaust housing did you go for? T4 divided

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by rs250nut

S372r ? Is that journal bearing, what exhaust housing did you go for? T4 divided

---

Yep S372 journal bearing, 1.1 ar turbine, t4 divided...

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Rob@Backyardracing

Yep S372 journal bearing, 1.1 ar turbine, t4 divided...

---

Quality, that's fecking huge. I don't have the bottle to see if my motor would spool something so big. I'm thinking of either a .63 or .82 I might see if I can hook something up to measure the back pressure.

Ended up driving up to Southampton to pick the head up as dhl messed up the address again. Super happy with so i decided to paint the rocker cover to day. I used an etch primer then straight on with the base coat with a special blend of colours, then applied a few coats of kandy, followed by the splats of blue with blue flake in topped off with five coats of clear.I also set about trimming the end of the cover so I can adjust the cam gears without having to take it off.

http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/i...ut/photo-1.jpg

http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/i...0nut/photo.jpg

http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/i...ut/photo-3.jpg

http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/i...ut/photo-2.jpg

http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/i...ut/photo-5.jpg

http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/i...ut/photo-8.jpg

http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/i...ut/photo-7.jpg

http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/i...ut/photo-4.jpg

What colour you going for on the rocker buddie... we cant clash now can we lol..

Id consider going .82, your at 83 bore yeah? so whats that put you at 1700cc or there abouts? plus you can rev out loads... FO SHOOOooooo :D

ok you just posted some pics... must have read my mind... looks good... what springs or retainers are you running? you keeping stock cams?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Rob@Backyardracing

ok you just posted some pics... must have read my mind... looks good... what springs or retainers are you running? you keeping stock cams?

---

I'm using a full supertech valve train with inconel exhaust valves and stainless inlets 0.5 oversize. I would have liked to use ferrea but it's bloody expensive stuff, I don't really want to use the standard b16 cams as from what I have been told they are pony for boost, ideally I would like to use pro1's but we will have to see what Santa brings. I can't build it up fully yet as I need some new lma's, my head came with the old type obd1 Lma's which can stick and cause a racket. The spring type lma's from the nsx are the ones I'm going to use as these work better with high lift cams.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by rs250nut

I'm using a full supertech valve train with inconel exhaust valves and stainless inlets 0.5 oversize. I would have liked to use ferrea but it's bloody expensive stuff, I don't really want to use the standard b16 cams as from what I have been told they are pony for boost, ideally I would like to use pro1's but we will have to see what Santa brings. I can't build it up fully yet as I need some new lma's, my head came with the old type obd1 Lma's which can stick and cause a racket. The spring type lma's from the nsx are the ones I'm going to use as these work better with high lift cams.

---

Ive been looking at some supertech springs with T1 retainers, ill keep stock valves for now.. Our Lma`s sounded fine when running so ill just re use them aswell... along with stock cams :( just dont have the funds to improve with any of this yet.. could problem pick some cheap gsr cams i guess... maybe you could just find some C4 cams for know, i know they aint the best option but like you said, these will be better than yours now.. just get finding a shell mate!!! :)

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Rob@Backyardracing

Ive been looking at some supertech springs with T1 retainers, ill keep stock valves for now.. Our Lma`s sounded fine when running so ill just re use them aswell... along with stock cams :( just dont have the funds to improve with any of this yet.. could problem pick some cheap gsr cams i guess... maybe you could just find some C4 cams for know, i know they aint the best option but like you said, these will be better than yours now.. just get finding a shell mate!!! :)

---

It is now at the top of the things to do list along with a turbo so I can make a down pipe and screamer tube and a clutch so the gearbox can be bolted on and slung in the car. I down have the cash for a twin plate so will hopefully use a cc 6 puck sprung centre plate and hope it lasts.:scared:

So many times in the past have I got pissed off with jubilee clips, either slipping with the driver or them breaking, I decided I could not have this problem when racing, I want it to be able to come apart quickly and be super reliable so I'm going to do the whole fuel system in -8 the main coolant hoses with -16 and the breather system with -10. I may also if time and money allow do the charge pipes with v-band clamps.

http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/i...t/photo-13.jpg

Just a few of the fittings I got from eBay super cheap with a load more on the way, I should have a fair few left so later on may be selling a few super cheap.

I love the use of AN-X fittings, just make the whole bay look more professional and business like. It's the minimum standard on aircraft. :agree:

Nice project thread RS ;)

What sort of static and dynamic compression are you going to be running? Head looks good chap. Have you looked at the TheOldOne website?

There’s some other stuff here you might like if you haven't seen it? The CNC blocks are nice. Some of the tech discussion doesn't quite tie up, but the results are there and documented. It would be nice to see results for acceleration pulls and what load the motors will take in a true dynamic than effectively static state.

http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1575817

http://forums.evolutionm.net/evo-dyno-tuning-results/447351-highest-hp-4g63-engine-2007-a.html

Wow some extreme work in that thread.... The orginal billet wheel looks like some of the 72mm cheater wheels in the outlaw class... :D

Thanks Martin

The static compression will end up around 9.0:1 maybe a little higher as I had the head shaved a little. As to the dynamic compression I'm unsure, this will depend on camshaft selection and wether or not it's in Vtec, maybe. I'm on a real steep learning curve at the moment as I'm a pro painter not a pro engine builder and this is my hobby, that said it's this kind of input I need to help me get to the top of the learning curve:agree:

Endyn and RLZ do some nice cnc head work and would have gone with RLZ if I had not heard about there shocking customer service. Mike at Laskey racing offered me a good deal on a complete head package so went with him, all his head work is done by Port Flow Design in California who have been responsible for some top work for the likes of Cosworth,TRD,Nascar.

Some of the stuff in that thread are what dreams are made of, maybe one day if I win the lottery.

Well your build looks nice, and look forward to seeing it come together :agree: Dynamic is easy enough to work out (excluding any ram tuning effects) and as you say need to know your cam specs. Static doesn't really tell you much, dynamic is more informative and will be able to judge whether you will be ok with what ever fuel grade you are choosing to run. You have a nice clean chamber, compact and fast burn so you will be able to be much higher than the old conservative dynamic 7:1 rule of thumb, but I'm sure you have some good advice on that already. Might be worth making a chamber mould though... see plug position, relative to the dome and flame front path, just a thought.

Yeah, know what you mean by dream dream dream... anyway, hope to see you out there next year.

Rob, yes nice compressors... on my latest venture with Clee I seem to be dreaming about compressor wheels.... sad init :laugh:

To start with I was sure I wanted to use q16 or vp import but after seeing what these fuels do to aluminium parts due to their high oxygen content I steered clear, Im hoping on c16 if it's available at a decent price.

SPECIFICATION SHEET FOR C-16

(Typical Values) Specific Gravity: .735 @ 60°F

Lead: Yes

Color: Blue

Motor Octane: 117

Reid Vapor Pressure: 1.85

Oxidation Stability (min.) 1440+

Distillation:
10% evap @ 211.5°F

50% evap @ 213.1°F

90% evap @ 215.8°F

E.P. @ 233.3°F

Production: Elmendorf, Texas USA

Availability: Sealed Drums

Rev: 07/00

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by MFaulks

http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1575817

---

That's awesome :eek:

that would need some serious amount of boost control, 1200hp jump in 1500revs :eek:

i dont think any tyre could hold that :wasntme:

I have just caught wind that the new 67mm efr from Borg warner is available in a t3 frame exhaust housing, something I may wait for instead of the pt 6765 :devil:

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Rob@Backyardracing

that would need some serious amount of boost control, 1200hp jump in 1500revs :eek:

i dont think any tyre could hold that :wasntme:

---

kinda why I think they were really loading in a static incremental fashion, would really like to see how this motor pulls itself up by it's shoe strings :)

What do you think of the Holset HX50 compressors?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by rs250nut

To start with I was sure I wanted to use q16 or vp import but after seeing what these fuels do to aluminium parts due to their high oxygen content I steered clear, Im hoping on c16 if it's available at a decent price.

SPECIFICATION SHEET FOR C-16

(Typical Values) Specific Gravity: .735 @ 60°F

Lead: Yes

Color: Blue

Motor Octane: 117

Reid Vapor Pressure: 1.85

Oxidation Stability (min.) 1440+

Distillation:
10% evap @ 211.5°F

50% evap @ 213.1°F

90% evap @ 215.8°F

E.P. @ 233.3°F

Production: Elmendorf, Texas USA

Availability: Sealed Drums

Rev: 07/00

---

Forget that cr@p ....

You want to be using this;

HIPERFLO TURBO ULTIMATE

UNLEADED RACE FUEL

RON 102, MON 90

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Dave Reed

Forget that cr@p ....

You want to be using this;

HIPERFLO TURBO ULTIMATE
UNLEADED RACE FUEL

RON 102, MON 90

---

Depends on its purpose.. That fuels developed to meet FIA regs for race cars and prob the best out there for them to use, they cant roll up to race events with Q16 sloshing in the tank.. and its dam cheaper than VP fuels.. BUT might be all well and good for alot of race cars but **** might hit the fan at 10:1 cr and 50-60psi boost. Think id still go for the C or Q16 or E85.. But then also there is not point in say a porsche 911 with 350hp with Q16 in the tank, completely pointless.. so Hiperflo would suit that car very well... All down to the tune and purpose... :)

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Rob@Backyardracing

Depends on its purpose.. That fuels developed to meet FIA regs for race cars and prob the best out there for them to use, they cant roll up to race events with Q16 sloshing in the tank.. and its dam cheaper than VP fuels.. BUT might be all well and good for alot of race cars but **** might hit the fan at 10:1 cr and 50-60psi boost. Think id still go for the C or Q16 or E85.. But then also there is not point in say a porsche 911 with 350hp with Q16 in the tank, completely pointless.. so Hiperflo would suit that car very well... All down to the tune and purpose... :)

---

Well I've seen back to back test's with C16 and this stuff and the engine it was used on made an extra 100hp with the hyperflo.. Still what do I no about fuels and your right every engine is different.. Just thought I'd offer a possible cheaper/better fuel :)

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by MFaulks

kinda why I think they were really loading in a static incremental fashion, would really like to see how this motor pulls itself up by it's shoe strings :)

What do you think of the Holset HX50 compressors?

---

I have not really looked at holset turbos much, the one you mentioned won't flow enough for the power I'm looking for. The precision and Borg warner units seem to be smashing it in all classes of drag racing at the moment. The new Garrett gtx range of turbos sound promising but have yet to see any back to back comparisons.

The o.e mounts I have have far too much movement for my liking so in a bid to stop the standard drive shafts breaking I set about looking for an alternative set of engine mounts, hasport and avid both do nice sets but come in around $300 dollars plus another $100 for the torque mounts. Add to this the shipping cost of around $60 and then import duty these would have set me back at least £250-300. You can imagine my delight when I brought these puppies for half that on eBay.

http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/i...t/photo-12.jpg

Machined out of billet 6061-t6 aluminium with polyurethane bushes inserted in there strip series hardness these should keep the shafts straight. The guy had them fitted to his civic for less than 500 miles and could not put up with the noise from the vibrations. That wont bother me though what with an open exhaust and two 044 pumps buzzing.

Sweet, i need to keep my eye of for a set.. one of the last things on my list tho, i want the car all up and running first.. :)

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Rob@Backyardracing

Sweet, i need to keep my eye of for a set.. one of the last things on my list tho, i want the car all up and running first.. :)

---

Trying to find an eg that's not rusty for the right money is harder than I first thought. I prepared to go anywhere in the country for one now. Spoke to a guy about one off pistonheads, nice tidy car captiva blue with no sunroof. Then he blows the head gasket would of been even better (cheaper) but the car was in Scotland and I would have had to drive it home.

Yeah trying to find a cheap rust free EG is hard.. ours isnt mint by far.. When we first started the EG project they where all over and very cheap, about £200-£500 now there through the roof!!! You not fancy an EK?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Rob@Backyardracing

Yeah trying to find a cheap rust free EG is hard.. ours isnt mint by far.. When we first started the EG project they where all over and very cheap, about £200-£500 now there through the roof!!! You not fancy an EK?

---

Not sure really the ek would be harder to get light, also I have spoke with hauser racing to supplie me with a pre bent 8.50 cage for an eg.

Went over to the old lady's garage to fit a few bits last night, fitted the water pump, new oil pick up tube and strainer, and the windage tray

http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/i...t/photo-15.jpg

After fitting these I bolted up the new moroso baffled oil pan with pre welded turbo oil drain and another provision for temp sender etc

http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/i...t/photo-16.jpg

I need to get it up on the stand now just short of a few long bolts. Then Friday a major part of the project should turn up:) also looking at these at the moment to an alternative to exo's

http://www.comp.co.uk/wheels/popup.asp?wheel=5

Nice Rim... I think once your major part turns up things will get going well... :)

Sha moan mother fcuker, I have a car to put my engine in now, picked it up off eBay for the princely sum of £560. Best monkey I have ever spent.

http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/i...t/photo-31.jpg

http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/i...t/photo-32.jpg

So this morning I fcuked work off to start on the puppy, removed most of the interior so I could scrape the sound deadening out, super thick and a right bar steward to get rid of. Within a couple of days it should be ready for welding and then the 8.50 spec cage.

http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/i...t/photo-33.jpg

Going back down there tomorrow for round two.

Nice One!! If you was local id be round to give you a lift... Nice colour car, im sure its going to look awsome when finished... :agree: Bargin too..

oh im sure youve done it already, but if not, give the inside of the rear arches a good clean, under the arch liners etc, and get a bit of wax on em', dont want it looking like an EG`s archs after splashing on a cage :)

It won't be long until I start bolting all this together so I thought I better pull my finger out and clean up the gearbox. I started with a wire brush and a load of degreaser which took for ever, bollocks to that so I payed a visit to my local machine mart, I brought a load of wire brush attachments for the drill and grinder which worked a treat, after an hour ninety percent of the crud off.

http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/i...t/photo-35.jpg

In between all the bolts and hard to reach areas I used an attachment which went in the end off the drill. So after getting all the crud off I gave it a quick final degreaser and applied some etch primer, as I dont have a compressor this will all be done will arse hole cans. Coat of etch

http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/i...t/photo-36.jpg

At this point I could have done a lot more prep with filler etc and removed some off the casting marks but I thought hey as long as it's clean and functional I don't give a monkeys. So while the etch was still a little tacky I went straight on with the top coat, I don't like celly arse hole cans so got hold of some pre mixed 2k cans in gloss black

http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/i...t/photo-37.jpg

Came out half tidy in the end considering I did not spend much time prepping it, I do it every day so it's the last job in the world I want to be doing. Also going to be changing most of the bolts to stainless items. I will post a pic later of all the items used.

Hope your only using stainless bolts for none stressed parts not engine to gearbox and gearbox mount bolts?

Looking good tho how long till it's all together?

The bolts for the bell housing and mounts won't be stainless as these are quite a fine pitch thread which I don't have. All the bolts around the casing which hold brackets etc will all be stainless. You think an m12 stainless bolt would snap?

Not sure when it will be finished, the car is booked in to have a cage fitted on the 5th of march so after that I can really get cracking. Turbo, ecu and cams are at the top of items I need now.

I can snap m10 stainless with a spanner im sure your engine will be trying to twist things alot harder than I would?

Looks like your getting there now. Where is the car booked in at? i havnt even started to build our motor yet, the shells been shipped of to a unit for storage aswell for a bit. I wont be out for the first round of HKS, nor prob the the 2nd.. im just going when im ready... :)

I wouldn't use stainless bolts either mate, stick to 8.8's

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Rob@Backyardracing

Looks like your getting there now. Where is the car booked in at? i havnt even started to build our motor yet, the shells been shipped of to a unit for storage aswell for a bit. I wont be out for the first round of HKS, nor prob the the 2nd.. im just going when im ready... :)

---

The car is booked in with Hauser racing for an 8.5 spec cage in cds, They did a pre bent kit for an eg but no love for the ek. I would love chromoly but it's another £500 on top. I really could do with the chromoly cage as the ek is proper lardy. I've not built my engine up yet as I don't want to leave in my old lady's garage, **** scared some one will pinch it. I did have my heart set on competing in all the rounds of the hks but I want the car to be reliable and super fast straight away. By the looks of things there should be some proper fast fwd cars out this year, I see some guy brought a complete car from the states with gsr motor sleeved s372r etc

9s or bust lol

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by rs250nut

The car is booked in with Hauser racing for an 8.5 spec cage in cds, I would love chromoly but it's another £500 on top. I really could do with the chromoly cage as the ek is proper lardy. I've not built my engine up yet as I don't want to leave in my old lady's garage, **** scared some one will pinch it. I did have my heart set on competing in all the rounds of the hks but I want the car to be reliable and super fast straight away. By the looks of things there should be some proper fast fwd cars out this year, I see some guy brought a complete car from the states with gsr motor sleeved s372r etc

---

Yep, was at Yasir garage, made over 850hp on his dyno.. where is the pride in that tho ?? Also there is a few on civiclife which could be fast... What gearbox is that S80??

Yeah it's a bit bollocks really, could have done the same but I would know feck all about the car and learned nothing. Gearbag is an s9b from a 1.8 vti same as yours I think, I may have to look at changing the final drive as on a 24.5 inch tire it's good for 164mph in fourth:devil:

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by rs250nut

Yeah it's a bit bollocks really, could have done the same but I would know feck all about the car and learned nothing. Gearbag is an s9b from a 1.8 vti same as yours I think, I may have to look at changing the final drive as on a 24.5 inch tire it's good for 164mph in fourth:devil:

---

Yeah same box.. ratios aint great... need to look at some options.. which wheel are you going for? exo?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Scoff

I wouldn't use stainless bolts either mate, stick to 8.8's

---

Aint most stainless bolts 8.8 anyway? :confused:

Think the stock bell housing bolts + mount bolts are 10s on the honda so pretty hard plus fine pitch as its tightening in to alloy, you cant swing on them like a monkey tho.. as for the box side of things i dont think it would matter, the stresses in the box aint forced on the bolts, the casing it self will let go first..

Just stick with OE parts John...:) ive never heard of a bell housing get pulled apart.. things like this happen first when your pushing big HP

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Rob@Backyardracing

Aint most stainless bolts 8.8 anyway? :confused:

---

no rob, they'd be A2 most likely. there's different grades sure, but none have the properties of even an 8.8 steel. they'll be OK if they're not holding something critical or something thats under load,

I cringe when I see guys with 6mm stainless cap heads holding their fuel rails in !! accidents waiting to happen.

Wow that's proper ruined, I'm not sure on wheels or tires yet, the 13x8 compomotive wheels are nice but I doubt they do a 3.5 x 15 skinny, still not sure on tires either. My crazy side says bollocks go with a 26 inch but then reality kicks in and tells me I have a stock gearbox.

i wouldnt touch 26`s with a pole lol

25`s a good medium of you think you will over-whelm the usual 24.5....


id be more thinking on boost control though, 23`s will cut 1.6 60fts as everyone knows :)

I did look at a 25 inch mh but they are 10.5 inch wide is that not against the rules? I think with the gearing I have I will go with the smaller tire.

After getting out off bed at 2.00 pm today I went over to the garage and pulled the engine out, massive great hole soon to be pained and filled with the b16 and a big ass turbo

http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/i...t/photo-38.jpg

All the inside is stripped to the bare bones now, all I need to do is take the stock fuel tank out and the peddle box.

http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/i...t/photo-39.png

Soon cracking on aint you.... :)

I don't have any light in the garage so only at weekends at the moment until the evenings lighten up.

http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/i...t/photo-41.jpg

Had the loom out of the car for a while now so I thought I would put it on a bit of a diet, all the crap from the tailgate first along with the seatbelt pre tensioners and a bit from behind the dash. I would say there is nearly 4-5kg of wire in the bag.

http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/i...t/photo-40.jpg

I'm trying to get hold of some manual window winders to lose a bit of lard out of the doors and take even more wire out, im not going to chop it anymore until I have decided on a ecu.

Took the car up to hauser racing on saturday so they can start fitting the cage and my god what a workshop they have. Top fuel, super pro, pro mods 622ci v8s everywhere. I think the car is in safe hands. Massive thanks to Mike for helping out trailering my car up to northants and back, stuck in a 2 hour jam on the M1 so busted out to some old school garage beats with on looking cars thinking we were a pair of loons. Got back to his unit with the trailer and could not put it anywhere, full to the brim with new and used gtt spares, the man must have enough parts to keep everyone on the road:agree:

Good stuff... You didnt happen to see a white eg there? Guy from civiclife building a drag car and said his cars down there for a cage too... i wanted to know if hes having a shoot mount fitted :coffee:

Ian the engine builder up there walked us round most of the workshop and I cant remember seeing a civic, 150mph traps need shoots is he going that fast?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by rs250nut

Ian the engine builder up there walked us round most of the workshop and I cant remember seeing a civic, 150mph traps need shoots is he going that fast?

---

I think so, there is a couple of guys both building eg`s with high power in mind..

Nice I may and go have a nosey. Wow alot of $hit talking going on in that forum.

Small update,started to bolt the motor together this evening, bit of a barsteward getting it on the stand on my own, need to live closer to some more rtoc'ers

http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/i...250nut/004.jpg

Put a little oil on the end of the studs and wound them in hand tight as per arp's instructions

http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/i...250nut/006.jpg

Applied a load of arp moly lube to the studs,nuts and washers and then in four equal steps tourqued down to 80 lb ft.

http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/i...250nut/008.jpg

Job done and rocker chucked on just for show.

Lol, you been on civiclife i take it.. its the honda version of cliosport..lol..

Nice update.. whens the shell back

Hopefully within the next two weeks, I cant see it taking any longer than that even with the shoot mount being added. Might see if they can sort a window net aswell. Gives me some thing to grow into. Loads of prep to do then, I want to paint the bay and the interior but I cant do the interior untill I have a seat to make up the rails for them.

It's nice once you get it all bolted together, even if you have other parts to fit, at least feels like you are nearly there, lol.
Can't wait to see it running.

Still got loads to do, need to have a chat with Mr Scoff soon about something to run it with.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by rs250nut

Still got loads to do, need to have a chat with Mr Scoff soon about something to run it with.

---

One word hondata!!!

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Rob@Backyardracing

One word hondata!!!

---

I can't do the mapping though mate, It is something I need to learn. Plus I would still have to buy a complete ignition system.

Clutch arrived today which is good, from ebay once again. Twin plate os giken item hopefully should hold the raging shetland ponys

http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/i...t/photo-46.jpg

http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/i...t/photo-47.jpg

Should also be picking car up saturday.:)

Had a proper long day today, car is broke so had to get the train up to southampton at 6.30am to meet Mike for a road trip to pick up project go slow:D After a few cans of red bull a punctured trailer tyre we arrived in Finedon. A few pics of the car when I got home

http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/i...t/photo-19.jpg

http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/i...t/photo-20.jpg

oh whats this hole for in the rear bumper, must have slipped with the hole saw.

http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/i...t/photo-18.jpg

it has a purpose but it is removable until I learn how to go proper fast.

http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/i...t/photo-21.jpg


Massive thanks once again to the man that is I have every single gtt part going.

Good **** man :cool:!!! I think its only me left now to get a shoot mount.. Not be long till your more in front than us with your build..

Im guna grab some beers n hit my garage now with this nice sunny evening and get building!! :)

Have been super busy with a the new job recently, my new mobile work place

http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/i...atstuff042.jpg

The civic has taken a bit of a back seat, I started choppin up the dash to fit around the climbing frame in the car, its a bit of a crap job because the steering gear is bolted to a frame behind the dash which weighs a ton.

http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/i...atstuff043.jpg

Most of it is trimmed back now so the dash fits the car again but I still have to make a support for the steering, ******* mig is out of gas again need a big ass pub bottle

http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/i...stuff044-1.jpg

Got rid of the factory cross member today to make way for a traction bar/ weight bar and also removing this means I can use a bigger intercooler, hopefully a 120mm thick cooler will fit behind the stock front bumper

http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/i...atstuff054.jpg

My main mission of late has been to shed as much weight as possible from the right areas so out came the hole saw and grinder:scared: Here is the new and improved lightweight tailgate

http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/i...atstuff045.jpg

The inside of the car still needs a bit of work but all of the unnessacary brackets have all been removed and the hole saw saw some more action, scrapped the last of the sound deadning up and also carryed on with removing more seam sealer in prepration for the mass welding session

http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/i...atstuff048.jpg

http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/i...atstuff047.jpg

The rear bumber also saw a bit of action from the hole saw this time not to save weight just trying to reduce the effects of the wind brake on the rear end, its like a parachute. Only thing being now I will never get away with the sleeper look, still might put a '' jesus loves you'' sticker with the fish symbol on the tailgate and leave the 1.4 badge. Messed about with the spoiler to lose more weight by removing the third brake light, need to get to 1039kg with me in it and I weigh 105kg. I need to put myself on a diet and leave th poor car alone, maybe just take a fat dump before racing:D

http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/i...atstuff055.jpg

Thought I would chuck this in, starting to look like a proper mill now

http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/i...atstuff049.jpg

looking quality john you best order some more pants for after you've shat yourself driving that monster :laugh:

when will it be ready for

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by philr5t

looking quality john you best order some more pants for after you've shat yourself driving that monster :laugh:

when will it be ready for

---

I had hoped for it to be completed within the next couple of months but not so sure now, every job turns into ten. :crap: I think when I have the turbo and the interior is finished I will be a happy man

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by rs250nut

I had hoped for it to be completed within the next couple of months but not so sure now, every job turns into ten. :crap: I think when I have the turbo and the interior is finished I will be a happy man

---

i know exactly what you mean mate my 2-3 month un realistic project is comming close to a year now mate :sad2:

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by philr5t

i know exactly what you mean mate my 2-3 month un realistic project is comming close to a year now mate :sad2:

---

I brought the bottom end just over a year ago now:eek: does not seem that long but hay ho. With my bm being broke aswell I dont have anything intresting to drive other than the van.

You recken you will be out for RTOC... I still havnt touched our car yet, theres more dust on it than parts.. But ive just had a burst of energy to get it finish.. changing our plan slightly tho with the build so we can get out and race.. ill update my project thread soon.. Keep up the work tho.. :)

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Rob@Backyardracing

You recken you will be out for RTOC... I still havnt touched our car yet, theres more dust on it than parts.. But ive just had a burst of energy to get it finish.. changing our plan slightly tho with the build so we can get out and race.. ill update my project thread soon.. Keep up the work tho.. :)

---

I would love to be but I cant see it mate, new job equals even less time. I got a lot of the welding done on friday picking up some seats this weekend thats about it.

Take your time, there is always something niggly that seems to hold things up... as I'm finding out myself :wasntme:
Can't wait to see this & the Backyard motor running this year, as well as Scoffs motor.

Have quite a lot of the fuel system now, just recieved the other 044 fuel pump and a few more -8 fittings plus the Y block.

http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/i...t/photo-24.jpg


This part of the aeromotive fuel pressure regulator has a thread tapped for a -6 thread were I want to use -8 so this is going off to be machined to a m18x1.5mm thread

http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/i...t/photo-25.jpg


I have to find another rocker cover now also after the kandy one got a little damaged, never been so pissed off about something in my whole life, proper spitting feathers.:bothered: Oh well cant beat bad luck in life. On a more positive note I have a few bits coming soon from the states, namely a big ass turbo.

http://realstreetperformance.com/sto...00hp-1311.html

hey fella i need to pick r brains about the idea u had with yr old my new car.

theres a tread in the technical section as i dont wana spam yr thread

any help is good help

Few bits arrived this weekend, picked up some aluminium 90 degree section to make an airbox with along with some carbon sheet that I already had, a length of 25mmx25mm box section to make the seat rails with. Im short of the runners which I still need to order to mount these seats.

http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/i...eglassseat.jpg

http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/i...kevlarseat.jpg

When the seats are fitted I can paint the interior, the project should move on a bit then.

Did a little bit more on the engine this week got hold of some new nsx type lost motion assemblies as the others were a bit tired and no good for big cams

http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/i...t/photo-27.jpg

As I had these I thought I may as well re fit the rocker shaft assemblies

http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/i...t/photo-26.jpg

You can see it being threaded back through from the right of the picture. Also this week I recieved my new high volume fuel rail made by Golden eagle in the states,, they are one of only a few manufactures that make one big enough to take a proper -8 fitting so this should tie in nicely with the rest of the fuel system.

http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/i...t/photo-29.jpg

Here is the intercooler I talked about earlier on in the thread, the seller was a little vague with the dimentions but in the end I thought bollocks go for it and see what happens, worst case scenario it has to go back

http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/i...t/photo-28.jpg

http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/i...t/photo-30.jpg

Glad to see you have gone for the Red rail, no colour clash now, ive got the black one.. :)

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Rob@Backyardracing

Glad to see you have gone for the Red rail, no colour clash now, ive got the black one.. :)

---

In all honesty I wanted to keep everything black and silver but I get carried away with anodised stuff, I think it stems from when I was a wee nipper with the bike stuff ( 2 bangers ftw) .

I think we should have our own Honda section of the rtoc Rob.

A few bits to update, the fpr has now been drilled and tapped to accept the larger -8 fitting
http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/i...t/photo-52.jpg

Picked up an air filter from a friend who used to work at prodrive, this came from a 2000 wrc car. Hopefully going to try and build a box with a ram pipe for this to sit in, is it big enough though?

http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/i...t/photo-53.jpg

Ebay comes through once again, picked up this bad ass rev counter with data logging and replay function, dont think the scale will be big enough though:wasntme:

http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/i...t/photo-51.jpg

Did a bit more work on the car today shedding more weight, pain in the ass job removing the original crash bars in the doors but well worth it, took me the best part of two hours to do one door but now I know how to do it the other door should be quicker, on the bathroom scales this little lot came to 7kg, sweet 14kg in total removed from the doors with more to come

http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/i...t/photo-54.jpg

Went to dry fit the engine/gearbox brace only to find it fouls on the new deeper sump pan, had a little read on honda tech and seems its a common problem

http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/i...t/photo-56.jpg

Out came the trusty angle grinder for a bit of trimmage

http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/i...t/photo-55.jpg

Fits sweet now, gave it a good clean along with a few other bits and pieces and got ready for a painting session, when its all dry I will chuck some pics up, should look pretty sweet though.

Hmm, ive not got one of those braces?? just the single bar style? be careful what you cut from your car, ****ing JDS have said the 969kg weight is a printing error and now its back up to 1039kg... pissed of isnt the word.. Just build it to 1000kg for the outlaw events and add balist for the JDS...

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Rob@Backyardracing

Hmm, ive not got one of those braces?? just the single bar style? be careful what you cut from your car, ****ing JDS have said the 969kg weight is a printing error and now its back up to 1039kg... pissed of isnt the word.. Just build it to 1000kg for the outlaw events and add balist for the JDS...

---

I don't think the eg's had the crash bars mate, on this it's two bars per side with a big plate in-between them. I doubt I will get near the minimum weight, the ek's are massively over weight to start with.

A few bits arrived today from laskey racing, this ati super damper as used by most nascar teams and top fuel drag cars is a nice bit of kit.

http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/i...t/photo-71.jpg

http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/i...t/photo-70.jpg

Hopefully will help absorb some of the harmonic waves traveling through the crank and stop it from bending/snapping at high rpm's.

As the stock b16 cams are not great for boost these skunk2 pro1 cams are just the job, for use with big turbos gt35r and bigger should help with initial spool and make a fair chunk more power up top. These are the stock cam specs

Inlet 230 deg / 10.6mm lift
Exhaust 227 deg / 9.4mm lift

And the skunk2 pro 1,s

Inlet 264 deg / 12.6mm lift
Exhaust 264 deg / 11.9mm lift

I'm a little worried about v2v contact what with big lift and enlarged valves and blowing boost out of the exhaust, Mike assures me it will be fine though,


http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/i...t/photo-68.jpg

Got some bdl cam pulleys to go on the end of these again which are super nice pieces, five bolt design using arp fastners.


http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/i...t/photo-69.jpg


This has been the part I have been waiting for more than anything on this whole build, a precision dual ball bearing billet wheel 6765 turbo. I dont know if Im a wierdo or not but I feel like a nipper again who just recieved a new push bike for christmas, ive got it in the bedroom just to keep looking at it:laugh:

http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/i...t/photo-65.jpg

http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/i...t/photo-64.jpg

http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/i...t/photo-62.jpg

http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/i...t/photo-61.jpg

http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/i...t/photo-62.jpg

http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/i...t/photo-67.jpg


Im need to grind a little out of the block to provide a more clearance between the comp cover and also make up some sort of heat sheild between the comp cover and one of the exhaust runners.

Nice, :).... Good cams too.. did you see the thread about Millers cams in his camo eg... all out in open now.. :laugh: spin off Brian crower cams... Wish i had enough cash for some sticks... have just run the stock C4`s for now.. :(

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Rob@Backyardracing

Nice, :).... Good cams too.. did you see the thread about Millers cams in his camo eg... all out in open now.. :laugh: spin off Brian crower cams... Wish i had enough cash for some sticks... have just run the stock C4`s for now.. :(

---

Do you have a link Rob?

http://www.honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=2674654

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Rob@Backyardracing

http://www.honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=2674654

---

Quite a revalation:sad2: As said in the thread though a lot of companies do it.

Have not done a great deal to the Honda but a small update none the less, after a pony day at work I came home to find my late christmas present from the missus

http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/i...t/photo-87.jpg

The opening in the end of the manifold was good for a maximum of a 68mm throttle so needed opening up a little to remove the step to the 72mm throttle.

http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/i...t/photo-88.jpg

Did not fancy waiting for the machine shop so out came the files and a flap wheel

http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/i...t/photo-97.jpg

It went on and off a few times but in the end got it pretty sweet, trial fitted the fuel rail, injectors and throttle and bolted it up to the head.

http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/i...t/photo-96.jpg

These breather adapters also came in from b&r fittings, make fitting the breathers in the back of the block a piece of cake

http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/i.../photo-104.jpg

Excellent work so far mate, engine looks like it will be awesome; I wouldnt like to think how much that has cost so far :)

Thanks for the kind words, I don't like to think what it has cost to date hence why I don't keep recipts!!!!!!.

looks stunning.:agree:

Small update, I needed some brackets to mount the seats but did not fancy paying £70-80 a pair for what is a bit of folded aluminium, had a little look on ebay for some materials that would be suitable, picked up some 75mm x 6mm aluminium bar for the uprights which cost close to £20 and some 38mm x 38mm X 6mm aluminium angle for the rails which also cost around £20. Armed with some basic hand tools and a cordless drill I got to work.

http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/i.../photo-101.jpg

After a lot of sawing, filing and the use of the mother in-laws vice they looked like this, not to shabby really and saved me a load of money, I may get them anodized or polish them see what time is available.

http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/i.../photo-103.jpg

Had a spare five minutes at the weekend so finished heat wrapping the exhaust manifold

http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/i.../photo-105.jpg

Completed it in two pieces and ended up being quite a tidy job, when I do this again I will make sure I have a painters suit and mask to hand as afterwards I itched all over and also soak the wrap in water, it makes it easier to work with.

Also fitted the inlet manifold with the throttle, injectors, fuel rail and fpr.

http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/i.../photo-106.jpg

http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/i.../photo-107.jpg

Had a delivery from Honda,I want to replace all of the old manky bolts for new ones and replace all of the rubber seals for gearbox, water pipe and did not have a two post mount so brought a brand new one.

http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/i.../photo-139.jpg

Had a little look at the intermediate shaft while its off the car, it looked in a bad way and had a noisy bearing so I decided to rebuild it, I did not take any pics of me taking it apart but will when I re assemble it.

http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/i.../photo-135.jpg



http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/i.../photo-137.jpg

After I taped up the bearing faces it got blasted and then buffed on a wire wheel, came out real clean.

http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/i.../photo-136.jpg

Will be painted black with a load of other stuff like engine brackets etc

Also started to dial the cams in, brought a moroso timing wheel which bolts straight up to the ati balancer which is handy as I did not have to make anything. Used a bit of an old coat hanger to make a pointer with and bolted it up, instead of using a dti to find tdc I got told to use a piston stop.

http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/i.../photo-142.jpg

With it installed it needed a bit of adjustment to get the engine to come to a stop within a few degrees either side of tdc. Messed with the pointer and adjusted the timing wheel until I had seven degrees btdc

http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/i.../photo-141.jpg

and seven degrees atdc

http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/i.../photo-140.jpg

Now when at zero degrees we at at true tdc

http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/i.../photo-144.jpg

http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/i.../photo-143.jpg


With the cams gears lined up, now we are ready to start with locking v-tec to get the cams to ride on the higher profile, I can do this two ways, one invloves using small bb in the three rockers which could fall in the engine or using a compressor with a special fitting to lock v-tec with air pressure going through the oil ways. I had to stop here as I need to make a fixture kit for the two dti's and also need the fitting for the side of the block.

Come on John pull your finger out by the time you've dropped the lump in the other Honda boys will be in the 8's :cooter: good to see it still going though mate keep it up :agree:

Nice to see another update :agree:, was wondering if it had gone the same way as the back yard boys :(.

Glad it hasn't and look forward to your next update :coffee:

That's looking awesome mate,I'm about to turbo my f20c engine(kings performance stage 3) wont look no way as flash as your setup though

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by steveT2

That's looking awesome mate,I'm about to turbo my f20c engine(kings performance stage 3) wont look no way as flash as your setup though

---

F20's are super bad ass, 700+whp on a stock block is not uncommon, I might build a s2000 after the civic.

Thanks for the motivation chaps, I have managed to start a business get married and buy a house without selling up so it wont be going that way until I have have some fun in it and ran a single digit pass.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by rs250nut

F20's are super bad ass, 700+whp on a stock block is not uncommon, I might build a s2000 after the civic.

Thanks for the motivation chaps, I have managed to start a business get married and buy a house without selling up so it wont be going that way until I have have some fun in it and ran a single digit pass.

---

do you rate the f20 better than the k20?

Wow I love this thread. That engine is ridiculous mate. The blower is super sexy! Keep up the awesome work!

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by 5alldaway

do you rate the f20 better than the k20?

---

Dont know really they are very similar, all of the new age honda engines are immense, really well engineered, super efficent and reliable. Either engine with make 260whp na with a few bolt on mods and crazy amounts with forced induction.

Test fitted the cbr 954 coils to the replica mugen cover to see if they would fit, nice and snug without the need for any kind of bar to hold them down.

http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/i.../photo-148.jpg

Also had the plugs turn up, one of the only plugs that will work with the cbr coils as you need a removable tip type plug.

http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/i...ABC0C72AC0.jpg

As you may spot I have a different rocker cover now as the other one got broke, I needed to weld the -10 bungs in so fired up my newly acquired ac/dc tig set

http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/i.../photo-145.jpg

Finished one of the water outlets at the weekend, bye bye to all jubilee clips, even stainless ones piss me off.

http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/i.../photo-152.jpg

And fitted to the motor with a -16 fitting

http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/i.../photo-149.jpg

Good to see your still cracking on with it mate, will be awesome when done:agree:

God Damn Awesome... :cool:

wow not seen one of them mugen rocker covers before, i bet the jdm fan boys will trade their mother in for one of them

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by 5alldaway

wow not seen one of them mugen rocker covers before, i bet the jdm fan boys will trade their mother in for one of them

---

Its not a genuine mugen rocker cover, the gen ones go for $800, this one hit me for 30 sheets. I should have ground off the e and the n.

I really do have a soft spot for these engines and think you're doing a great job mate. Keep it up. :cool:

Couple of bits I have been messing around, new rocker cover after I broke the other one.
http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/i...CFF13B2499.jpg

Some diffrent engine mounts twice as stiff as the other ones with proper brackets.

http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/i.../photo-150.jpg

And now I work for these feckers I may as well take advantage so I treated myself to a ac/dc inverter tig set, should come in handy for all the fab work, need to make a fuel tank, breather tank, mounts for intercooler rad setup, downpipe, screamer tube.

http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/i.../photo-151.jpg

Also just got these camber arms through the door, should help to get the front wheels in the straight up position.

http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/i.../photo-153.jpg


http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/i.../photo-154.jpg

Rebuilt intermediate shaft with new bearings seals and two of the other engine mounts re painted

http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/i.../photo-155.jpg

Got hold of these function7 billet rear lower control arms to replace the stock pressed steel ones, should lose a little more weight out of the rear of the car

http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/i.../photo-156.jpg

Both fittings are now made for the side of the head just waiting for the rad and two more weld bungs to finish

http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/i...ps1f2708b0.jpg

Pulled all the bushes out of the rear lower arms, had them anodized to stop them corroding

http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/i...psbfa8651d.jpg

Also started to make the down/up pipe

http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/i...ps0802f102.jpg

Not sure wether to pipe it up out of the bonnet or straight out of the wing

http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/i...ps3c4351b1.jpg

I think I will leave it there for the minute until I get the engine in the car mocked up with the gearbox.

Looking sweet. :cool:

Fantastic, love every update :D

Thanks chaps, waiting now for the rad to turn up and a pipe bender so I can fabricate the traction bar, intercooler and rad mount.

Small update got the radiator today after waiting a while for it, set about chopping the hose outlets off.

http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/i...ps319634d7.jpg

Got the tig out and welded on some -16 bungs.

http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/i...ps83a40218.jpg

Cleaned all the bushes for the rear lower arms and used the vice to press the *******s back in, hate jobs like that:mad:

http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/i...psdee8e589.jpg

Started to try and make the intercooler fit behind the stock bumper today, with the factory cross member removed I set about making a new one which will hold the intercooler, form part of the traction bar, mount weights to and also mount the radiator.

http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/i...ps11207bb9.jpg

http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/i...ps84fc2daf.jpg

Made two other brackets to hold the cooler

http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/i...psab532598.jpg

http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/i...psa45c01d5.jpg

With the cooler in place

http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/i...psb3c87209.jpg

And one with the stock bumper fitting like a glove

http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/i...ps26135aa4.jpg

Need a little bit of work to finish, I need to modify the end tanks on the cooler and then clean up the brackets and paint them.

Fantastic work :agree::eek:

Jon, how much was the welder and how do rate it now that you've put it to use?

PM if you'd prefer.

New poster! (less than 10 posts)

lovely build thread mate, stunning engine

not a lover of civics but like the look of this build

Welder is the absolute jam, I gave just over a grand for this machine on a one off ex demo deal. It takes a bit of getting used to but once you can run a few beads with out touching the tungsten you soon start seeing why tig welding I so popular. I had a dc set before this and was ideal to learn with as was a lot cheaper so if I did not like it I would have not **** out to much. Now I have got to the stage where I have have a few jobs through the door earning proper money, give it another year and I think the machine would have payed for itself.

Fantastic workmanship, great build enjoy the updates.

Thanks people, would be doing a bit more but had a fight with the angle grinder

http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/i...ps7922200b.jpg

I does not look a great deal but the 1.00mm cut off wheel went to the bone!!!

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by rs250nut

Thanks people, would be doing a bit more but had a fight with the angle grinder

http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/i...ps7922200b.jpg

I does not look a great deal but the 1.00mm cut off wheel went to the bone!!!

---

7 stitches in my left hand from doing this
Then 18 months later I done the right aswell
I like to be symmetrical

I pretty much passed out when using an angle grinder at marks when doing the mini gt turbo. Not touched one since...gives me weak knees.

Grinders are rediculously dangerous. Especially when they snag.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by rs250nut

Welder is the absolute jam, I gave just over a grand for this machine on a one off ex demo deal. It takes a bit of getting used to but once you can run a few beads with out touching the tungsten you soon start seeing why tig welding I so popular. I had a dc set before this and was ideal to learn with as was a lot cheaper so if I did not like it I would have not **** out to much. Now I have got to the stage where I have have a few jobs through the door earning proper money, give it another year and I think the machine would have payed for itself.

---

Sounds great. I haven't welded for years but I've had enough of getting someone else to do it. I want to get the skills back and want to be able to TIG aluminium too.

I was doing a spot of grinding the other night and got a kick back that gave me a fright!

That looks painful!

Got a fair amout of work done this weekend, borrowed this wire saw and removed the screen and the two side windows.

http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/i...ps5a350316.jpg

http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/i...ps06911264.jpg

Trying to get it painted on the inside and under the bonnet in the next few weeks so did a bit of filler work on the inside where the old seat brackets were

http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/i...ps1951a290.jpg next few weeks so did a bit of filler work on the inside where the old seat brackets were

http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/i...ps52f9f3ac.jpg

Then started with the wrc style sill tubes, both of the front two are now fully welded

http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/i...psf94ed5b6.jpg

All four of the seat tubes are now welded in, gives me something to mount the seats to now instead of rocking around dreaming.......

http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/i...ps3a22b36c.jpg

Also managed to fit the rear lower control arms, should look quite good from behind as you will be able to see them

http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/i...ps9c57187d.jpg

Nice!

Finished off the steering column now with a dash bar added in to the cage

http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/i...ps19c6bda4.jpg

Here is the plate i made up to weld to the dash bar

http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/i...psa6fa7ab1.jpg

Now with the dash and steering column cowls on to work out where the steering wheel needs to be befora i tack it in, note the use of some washing line up in to the rafters.

http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/i...ps39babc63.jpg

Now with the plate welded in and another support welded to the bulkhead.

http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/i...psa32df693.jpg

Got a bit bored of looking at the motor in its natural silver/aluminium colour so decided to freshen it up with some engine enamel in matt black

http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/i...ps7225138d.jpg

And a bit of detail work on the engine number and also the guys signature who sleeved the block, worked it through 180,240,400,800,1200,1500,2000 and then a light polish with the trusty autosol, came up like mirrors

http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/i...psa025cb8d.jpg

Fabricated some gussets for the cage
http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/i...ps071b6a46.jpg

And then both sides welded in
http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/i...ps9035fb3f.jpg

Welded in the harness eyes for the six point harnesses
http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/i...ps054dfb34.jpg

Staying with the fab work I wanted to lose the stock slam panel as it weighs a ton but also to make engine/gearbox removal a lot easier and without the use of a crane

http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/i...ps61d36263.jpg

With some aluminium and carbon fibre this is what I ended up with

http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/i...psf9502261.jpg

Needed a lot of an hose so looked through the contacts list and found the number for Martin from Goodridge, top bloke and did a cracking deal on all the hose I need for my project, I think it ended up being somewhere near a third of the rrp.

http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/i...psdbc13f0b.jpg

I decided to go with the nylon braid stuff as its easier to work with and weighs less, as I had it I though it would be rude not to so made the oil return hose from the turbo.

http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/i...psb25d8bb9.jpg

Also had the stainless fittings and hose for the oil feed hose so decided to finish that off as well.

http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/i...ps1167095e.jpg

Got the wheel and snap off boss through the door so set out to finish the steering column

http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/i...ps837b8524.jpg

The wheel was getting too close to the seat so fitting a bolt on boss was not an option as getting in and out is not an easy job so went with a weld on type, the slug that came with the boss was 20mm od and by the time I trimmed the end off the oe spline I came up bang on 20mm od. Ordered up some precision 25mm od tube with 20mm id. With a bit of heat the tube fitted straight over the slug. Here's a close up of the welding

http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/i...ps938cfaf9.jpg

And fitted with the wheel

http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/i...psd9ff2b8a.jpg

Your welding skills are top drawer. Enjoy you're updates:)

Yea i agree excellent fab work i really enjoy reading the updates on this thread keep them comeing

Thanks chaps, I'm even starting to believe myself there is a light at the end of the tunnel!!!!!

Great Project:agree:

Got some more bits through the door for the civic, these 3 inch 6 point harnesses for both sides

http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/i...psd82bb283.jpg

This additional timing belt tensioner to go on the long side of the belt

http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/i...psa450df94.jpg

http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/i...ps017a5e68.jpg

Also these wheels for the front, weld racing 13x10, should end up with 24.5x9.5x13
inch tyres mounted on these, have the matching rear skinnies on order also.

http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/i...ps09e64cea.jpg

http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/i...ps68ee757c.jpg

http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/i...ps68ee757c.jpg

oppps

http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/i...psbf9b7811.jpg

Small update, paint on the inside and under the bonnet is now finished went with 868 Frienze red, looks a little like candy apple red. Pops like mad when the sun hits it.

http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/i...pse92e87f4.jpg

http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/i...psc5d4445a.jpg

http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/i...ps427870b0.jpg

Crack on with the underside now, remove all the stone guard and get that ready for paint, and I may paint all the cage gloss black.

Sweet as:agree:

Lovely:niceone:

stunning :agree:

Beautiful craftmanship. :cool:

Wow, nice job, but whatever you do, don't bring it to ND and enter it into the show n shine and win. Glen will not be happy :laugh::cooter:(aimed at Glen)

Small update, have the rear skinnies to match the fronts now which weigh next to nothing next on the shopping list will be some tyres to suit.

http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/i...psbb4e79fe.jpg

Also painted most of the underbody and front arches with an epoxy 2 part paint system, super happy with it as I used to use something very similar on ocean going yachts as it has great anti corrosion properties, here's a link

http://www.rust.co.uk/products/categ...chassis-paint/

I also used their fe-123 which is a rust converting primer, not that there was a great deal of rust to deal with, only the surface stuff where I had seam welded the shell and it had burnt off the underseal in places.

http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/i...pscc110758.jpg

http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/i...ps4d9bf2bd.jpg

The finish is my no means amazing as I used gloss rollers to apply it, but was a lot quicker and also a lot less messy without having to worry about overspray etc.

Those wheels are a bit tasty :cool:

Small update, while the wife was out I managed to squeeze all of the plastic parts and rubber bushes etc into the dish washer.
http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/i...pseb1ddd5c.jpg
Most of the parts came out pretty damn clean, the washer bottle was a little more work to clean the inside but in the end looked like new. I half filled it with sand and shook it like a bar steward.
Also managed to sort my ek9 steering rack out, i wanted to run without power steering but did not fany looping the lines and risk damaging the rack so set out to convert it the right way to a proper manual rack.
Rack in the vise
http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/i...ps7c392903.jpg
Rack stripped down.
http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/i...ps36e16610.jpg
The piston that needed removing.
http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/i...ps323f5cfe.jpg
Pinion stripped down.
http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/i...psa382f380.jpg
Hoses removed and holes welded up.
http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/i...psc55f1b6a.jpg

Dishwasher:laugh: and taking a picture of it:laugh:

:laugh::laugh:LMFAO :laugh::agree:

Love the colour pal. might have to drop and few grams of glitter in my paint :cooter:

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Wallace

Dishwasher:laugh: and taking a picture of it:laugh:

:laugh::laugh:LMFAO :laugh::agree:

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Hey you no what they say................. Don't knock it until you have tryed it, all joking aside its the bollocks for cleaning plastic parts.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by kial

Love the colour pal. might have to drop and few grams of glitter in my paint :cooter:

---

The more I look at it the more I love it, tempted to do the outside of the car the same colour!!!

Small update, I feel as if I have crossed a mile stone. The engine is finally in the car
Y
http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/i...ps0f78839b.jpg

http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/i...ps9cfdb23c.jpg

http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/i...ps51074d1b.jpg

Hopefully should come together pretty quickly now...........

The whole build just looks absolute quality:agree:

Excited to see the finished article :cool:

Looking Sa-weet!

:agree: awesome!

Thanks chaps, have had a real surge of motivation with the car in recent weeks.

Amazing :)

Looks awesome I have a supersonic ej9 facelift myself as a runabout its mint and got some good mods like anniversary red recaros and mugen replica body parts.Where did you buy those wheels and how much?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by LukeRobbo

Looks awesome I have a supersonic ej9 facelift myself as a runabout its mint and got some good mods like anniversary red recaros and mugen replica body parts.Where did you buy those wheels and how much?

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Got them from a Honda specialist who I get a lot of my stuff through called IPG in florida, the fronts were around £400 and the rears were around £700 plus shipping and import duty which was another £200-300.

Small update started to mess about with the front race wheels and the new brake calipers to see what the clearance was like, the caliper fits the wheel in terms of overall diameter inside but I knew the clearance between the back face of the wheel and the front face of the caliper would be tight

http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/i...ps4j8upedh.jpg

Measured up some temporary spacers which happened to be rear brake pads that came out at just over 13mm.

http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/i...psrfssbz7w.jpg

So I ordered up some hubcentric spacers with extended studs in the nearest size I could find which were 16mm, 10'' wide wheel with an extra 1/2 inch of poke, I better make a start on a new wide front end!!!!!

Also made a start on the exhaust, space is at a premium now due to all the components fitted, I could have made a conventional down pipe and vented it to the floor but it was deemed to risky as it would have been to close to the front near side tire, my thoughts being that any fluids from the engine coming out of the exhaust from a broken engine could be tricky.

http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/i...pszga3livo.jpg

http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/i...pshejc1kzz.jpg

So it ended up venting through the bonnet, once finished and trimmed flush with the bonnet it should look ok. I need to get a new regulator for my welding bottle so I can close off both ends and fully back purge it so the welds on the inside are just as good as the outside.

Looking good Jon :)

We had some dyno time with glenns finally, 2nd gearbox already, now on to it's 3rd. Seems 4th gear isn't very strong in these S9B units !

http://www.youtube.com/attribution_l...eature%3Dshare

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Scoff

Looking good Jon :)

We had some dyno time with glenns finally, 2nd gearbox already, now on to it's 3rd. Seems 4th gear isn't very strong in these S9B units !

http://www.youtube.com/attribution_l...eature%3Dshare

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Some people seem to have the luck and some don't, I have a spare already lined up in the shed!!!!! And always on the look out for more. It's a shame a proper gearset is so much money, along with the billet bell housing etc etc. Is glen still on the stock cams? I expected h to make more than 800hp.

No, he has cams, but stock ports.

Don't believe those USA HP numbers, you should know that Jon :) If we brought it over there it would make 1000hp :crap:

I do like these engines. :cool: Was it standard gearbox that breaking at 800bhp or reworked jobbie? What's the red line on Glens Scoff? :confused:

Looks like it's moving along nicely. It's a shame the JB3 and JC5 can't cope with much power/torque. Like Goob, I have a soft spot for these and would love to stick one in a 5. Not just for their ability to make good power reliably but also because their light weight wouldn't upset the handling on a 5. It might even be a bit lighter than a C1J?

I pulled the head of my '73 XJ6 the other day and thing on its own must weight 35-40kg!

The b16-18 are all aluminium engines and are quite light, when coupled with the really heavy gearbox though I doubt there is a lot in it!!!!

I would guess that glen is using stock gearsets, it's breaking fourth all the time because that's the only gear taking a hammering on the dyno coupled with a engine making 450+ ft/lb of torque. I would also guess to say that the red line has to be somewhere up around 10,500rpm maybe a little less.

Scoff, did glen use someone else for the sleeving process in the end? Who did he have trouble with in the states? Pm if you like to keep it off the boards.

Exhaust looks awesome, guessing its going to be hella loud as well :D

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Jeff Ninebar

Exhaust looks awesome, guessing its going to be hella loud as well :D

---

It will be quite loud but the exhaust housing on the turbo will do a good job on noise reduction, if this were N/A with the exhaust venting like this then it would be silly loud!!!!

Awesome build! Those brakes :smokin: loving it mate!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by w35ty

Awesome build! Those brakes :smokin: loving it mate!

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Cheers thank you for the complement.

Incredible build quality :cool: everything about it says quality.

Just 1 question regards enamel paint was it a spray or paint you used? I'm looking at giving my block, head and other parts a freshen up instead of powdercoating. With enough coats on would you say it's durable? Thanks :)

Jon, he had his normal engine engineering place bore the block and press the sleeves. Darton mids, as per the 1st and only other semi-successful engine !! They have much bigger lands to stop the liners dropping when compressed. I don't know what sleeves were in the ERL and Future motorsport blocks but with the wire ringing it was enough to make the liners move when the head went on.

Redline is only 9200rpm although it'll rev a bit more than that if we need it to on the track. Peak power is about 9krpm, peak torque about 7800rpm. 530lb/ft or so. We might need to play with cam timing depending on the ratios of the new gearset.

I had hoped for a little more power for that boost. As boost went up I was able to see the engine was making something like 195hp aspirated. I had expected a bit over 200hp but I guess the cylinder head might need work for that. I havn't seen enough other examples to really know :)

PS they were standard gears but with a cuff (bearings and brace) in place of 5th gear.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Ricardo

Incredible build quality :cool: everything about it says quality.

Just 1 question regards enamel paint was it a spray or paint you used? I'm looking at giving my block, head and other parts a freshen up instead of powdercoating. With enough coats on would you say it's durable? Thanks :)

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It was out of a spray can, I wish I had used a gloss instead though as it would have matched the gearbox and stayed looking cleaner for longer!!!!! Not sure on the durability of it yet, I spent quite a long time prepping it so I hope it will last.

wow! this is going to be a monster!!!

Shit just realised that the last time I did any work on my car was nearly a year ago!!!!!

Sounds familiar!

Update! Update! Update!

I need my Honda B Series fix!!!

Need to sort it out big time, so bored in driving around in a 320hp bmw with no turbo!!!!!! Need boooooooooooost

Hi mate. Can you clear some PMs please? :)