James5 with Yet another GTT

OK I am back again with not one R5 GTT but 3 well I say 3 I am slowly downsizing. This all started back in April 2014 when I decided to sell my Evo 6 after having to replace the rear diff setup for just shy of £2k for the RS kit I thought it’s all working 100% and best time to sell it on so within a week it was sold. I then picked up a J Plate Tungy Grey GTT from Essex the plan was to restore it, so booked it all in for a re-spray got messed about by the sprayer with delay after delay. So whilst awaiting sprayer I attend the Retro day at pod and done a few run’s had a slight gearbox crunch before I started I ended up with constant crunching in first and 2nd gears. I was then on the lookout for a replacement box nothing local and then a cat c write off R5 GTT popped up not too far away perfect so I snapped it up. On the way back from picking this spare GTT up had a convo with a friend whom had lost interest in his R5 GTT and I ended up agreeing to buy his restored white GTT rolling shell this then solved the re-spray issue for me (re-shell). Thing’s now had to move quick as I had / have a moaning Mrs’s on my back. So pretty quick the spare white GTT was sold on, the Tungy 5 was stripped of goodies and engine. The tungy is pretty much in standard now ready to go to new owner. The white rolling shell now has most of my goodies fitted and is currently a work in progress; hopefully have road legal within the next couple of weeks.
A couple of pictures attached as to what I have done so far, I know it’s not to everyone’s taste but **** it:D

Please see this thread for the build restoration project history https://www.rtoc.org/boards/showthread.php?t=6285

JRP many thanks for the car:agree::cooter:

Some more pic's as to where I am at and changes

One piece downpipe with thanks to turbo renault forum (please don't shoot me good bit of kit).

Please ignore cable ties awaiting bolts and nut's

:D


Hoping to have car road legal for the next Surrey meet:agree:

That downpipe looks amazing :agree:

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Originally Posted by Jonny5

That downpipe looks amazing :agree:

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it is ive seen it in the flesh mate, looks like a work of art:agree::agree:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by James5

:D


Hoping to have car road legal for the next Surrey meet:agree:

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it better be there or otherwise matey grrrrrrr:laugh:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by R5MJH

it better be there or otherwise matey grrrrrrr:laugh:

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:agree:

MOT is booked I just need to finish the car by then and make sure all 100%:scared::eek:

Only concerns is sorting the gearstick linkage as I am missing a few bits for it's assembly. Will get it on and see what I need to get hopefully Mike will be able to do some urgent postage if needed:agree:

I really miss it now.

Looking good James! :agree: Are you going to get some side decals? :confused:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Goobie

Looking good James! :agree: Are you going to get some side decals? :confused:

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:D Yep

Looking great James good to see it finally getting some loving ready for road use

Dude you go though cars quicker than I cook my own hot dinners. :D

Glad you've got a settled :agree: hope there's lots of ELboostO in it futureO

Not hanging around well done James.

Looking good. I wish I had as much spare time to work on mine but with all the housework/cleaning/cooking, a full time job with a 3 hour commute each day, and a baby to look after I find I only get a couple of hours spare a week. :(

Im hoping to get mine finished before summer is up, but am now thinking I might be very lucky if that happens....

James, I can't keep up. :D Keep the pics coming.

Rabbit. A 3hr commute is a killer, a huge quality of life issue what with a young family :(

Quote:

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Originally Posted by rabbitstew

Looking good. I wish I had as much spare time to work on mine but with all the housework/cleaning/cooking, a full time job with a 3 hour commute each day, and a baby to look after I find I only get a couple of hours spare a week. :(

Im hoping to get mine finished before summer is up, but am now thinking I might be very lucky if that happens....

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It's not about spare time I literally have none but I am happy to work on the car late most of the work is done from 9pm - midnight over 3 day's a week (my allowance for car tinkering :laugh:) this time of yeah the weather is ok so I don't mind doing it. This is me also working full time (helpful only work 4miles away) doing the household chores, and the 5 kid's and a moaning Mrs's and she still moans even though I do it in the eve (never win whatever I do).

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Trevhib

James, I can't keep up. :D Keep the pics coming.

Rabbit. A 3hr commute is a killer, a huge quality of life issue what with a young family :(

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Well its 1hr 30 each way.... but yeah I was talking to the mother-in-law about it last yesterday and basically thats 3 hours a day just wasted, not to mention the cost... I do about 22k a year, diesel alone is £250 a month. At least its cheaper than my commuting car which was a Nissan 350z - that ended up costing me £1250 a month :eek::eek: over the 18 months I had it.

Its the old trade off between money & quality of life.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by James5

It's not about spare time I literally have none but I am happy to work on the car late most of the work is done from 9pm - midnight over 3 day's a week (my allowance for car tinkering :laugh:) this time of yeah the weather is ok so I don't mind doing it. This is me also working around household bit's, work and 5 kid's and a moaning Mrs's and she still moans even though I do it in the eve (never win whatever I do).

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5 kids?! kin ell.... at least we know what you get up to on the 4 evenings your not in the garage!! :D

Unfortunately im a bit restricted in the evenings noise wise in case I wake him up, so i find when I get in at 7pm I leg it into the garage to quickly do any angle grinding etc for a few minutes, then after I put him to bed I might be able to get an hour in there doing some welding which doesnt seem to wake him up. The missus is addicted to "true blood" atm so she dont mind me being in there as she can see another episode.

When I was working on my Ducati 996 earlier in the year, id get up at 5.30am and get a good couple of hours in before leaving for work. But, atm ive got to get up and feed him at 6.30am which kind of screws things up. Cant be sneaking upstairs covered in grease/oil/muck half way through taking the engine out. :D

Still when he`s older im hoping he can give me a hand, his hands would probably fit around the engine bay a bit easier than mine.

I had to read the first post twice to work out what colour the 5 is you are keeping :D

Well almost ready for mot now:-)

Just need to do the following

Sort gearstick linkage (stolen setup of tungy) new parts on way,
Work out why headlight sidelights not working,
Work out why tailgate lights not working aswell,
Work out why fogs not working
Replace indicator bulb on dash
Plumb in AFR
Plumb in boost gauge
Sorting tracking out(will let garage do that prior to mot along with headlight aim)

Any tips for sorting gearstick linkage setting been a while since done one?

Also any tips on were to look for lighting issues??

my lights didn't work and it was due to a bad connection between the lights switch stalk and the big connector plug that connects to it off the dash loom, it was loose and needed a screw wedged in one side to hold it in place and make the lights work!

Cheers Jeff will check it over iI am thinking earthing points


Quick bay PIC attached please ignore the blue and yellow hoses i have had ordered green ones but long delay due to colour and special order:crap:

All done :-)

Ns electric window motor does not appear to be working is this an mot failure???

Quote:

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Originally Posted by James5

All done :-)

Ns electric window motor does not appear to be working is this an mot failure???

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No mate

Quote:

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Originally Posted by LeeR5GTT

No mate

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:cool: will leave it for now had enough of playing 5 for a bit now

You've not hung about getting this one up and running, looking forward to seeing it buddy. :agree:

Just to add that the tungy has not lost out on a gearstick linkage that is in boot along with all other parts for it to be a fully running gtt they were on order whilst I rushed to get white gtt running

Forgot to add the car passed MOT on Monday with Nil advisiories. Couple of issue's I had to sort on ramp, nsr indicator decided to come on way brake pressed (was a bad connection cleaned and all good), also the AEI vacum line split so replaced and fine.

Since then though a couple of small failure's

Water pump replaced,
Top hose stat replaced,
Fuel pump changed,
New Fuel filter fitted,
Morrettes wired in fully now so 2nd lamps work on high beam (many thanks to Ian S for the custom loom),
New number plates fitted (wasn't keen on the black surrounds and plates screwed in place),


What left to do -

Side Decal's
Fog wiring,
Dash replacement,
Heater matrix replacement,
Small bodywork repair to NSR quarter (very fine hairline crack assume filla blown due to heat),

shaping up nice James :agree:

Looks absolutely lush. :crush: I think this particular car doesn't need decals, although adding certainly isn't going to be to its detriment.

What about a Euro rear light cluster?

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Originally Posted by Jeff Ninebar

shaping up nice James :agree:

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Many thanks, I can't take credit for the bodywork condition as that was JRP:agree:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Trevhib

Looks absolutely lush. :crush: I think this particular car doesn't need decals, although adding certainly isn't going to be to its detriment.

What about a Euro rear light cluster?

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Cheers Trev, Euro clusters is a very good idea I will look into that :agree:

You only need one and you have two choices. Delete the reverse light by getting a Euro fog light cluster, or delete the fog light by getting a Euro reverse light cluster.

I found that deleting the reverse light was easiest because a reverse light is not a requirement for an MOT (last time I checked). You simply have to remove the reverse bulb and it should go through.

On a white GTT it might look cool to have two reverse lights though. That means not having a fog light during the year and having to replace the UK cluster for the MOT. Hardly a bind as how often will you be out in the fog in your GTT and how long does it take to remove/replace a cluster?

Either way will look cool.

:)

Miss it

Quote:

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Originally Posted by JRP

Miss it

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:agree: I know mate I am looking after it:D

Some more updates, had a little issue with temps on the car and a few other small issues to sort -

So I have done the following

New complete water pump fitted,
New low temp thermostat fitted
New low temp rad stat fitted,
Alloy rad installed,
3rd spal fan fitted,
Yet more Renault Type D green antifreeze,
New fuel pump fitted,
Front fogs sorted (Needed bulbs),

Pics! :D

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Trevhib

Pics! :D

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Bit's added (ok not all added as I have spare brand new water pump). New plates ok the car had new plates are just didn't like the black surrounds and fact they are screwed in

Couple of more pic's of car.

Next fault on cards, rotational noise OSF not engine based, horrible rotational squeak / squeal, fades when the brakes are used.

Will be looking at this tomoz eve

Loving morettes :agree:

Makes me want to get some.

Wish I was progressing my project as fast as your doing with yours!

Looks like a minter, glad you're back in the Gtt scene:agree:

Thanks for using the elf sticker :)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Jimmy5

Loving morettes :agree:

Makes me want to get some.

Wish I was progressing my project as fast as your doing with yours!

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Cheers, Morrettes are cool love them also but they are a bit of a Marmite thing you either like or dislike not cheap unfortunatly either.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Tutuur

Looks like a minter, glad you're back in the Gtt scene:agree:

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It's very clean (Cheers JRP), can't believe how many gtt's I have had over the last couple of months

Quote:

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Originally Posted by JRP

Thanks for using the elf sticker :)

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:agree: Currently trying to get the other one aswell(yellow) "lives better with a Renault"



Couple more pic's attached

The Current to do list,

To do list

1. Heater Matrix replacement,
2. Dash replacement,
3. Replace door speakers,
4. Side decal fitment
5. Fit bling bits

Small update been buying loads of parts recently, got the following for the gtt

Side decals,
Chrome alternator arm,
Chrome inlet heat shield,
Chrome crank pulley,
Chrome engine to gearbox bar,
New Zinc accelerator brackets,
New driveshaft o/s
New front wheel bearings fitted,
Tracking sorted,
T28 turbo,


Now need a decent cam

We want pics :)

Car is looking mint mate! Is that the turbo you're selling? Looks mint too!

Don't know if i like the military green hoses though but each to there own:agree:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Tutuur

Car is looking mint mate! Is that the turbo you're selling? Looks mint too!

Don't know if i like the military green hoses though but each to there own:agree:

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Cheers, yeah the same turbo I am selling,. The hoses are OK look better in the flesh they are a Marmite thing samco British racing green.

Got more on way to replace yellow and blue pipes:agree:

Will upload some pics later for some reason it won't upload on a thread but will upload to my albums:scratch: from my phone

couple of pics

Looking good :agree:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by markg

Looking good :agree:

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Getting there slowly, many thanks for the bling bits:agree:

T28 fitted now just awaiting new oil feed with filter to arrive and more British racing green samcos should be here tomorrow to replace some of the yellow and blue, still a few more left on order

Update :D

More Samco British Racing Green hoses fitted just one coolant hose to get,
HKS EVC V boost controller setup fitted,
Finished undersealing the rear arches on the car (as per JRP request),
Chrome engine to gearbox steady bar fitted
T28 Turbo fitted,
Pro Alloy rad and intercooler bodged to fit,
In car fan switch fitted and wired in,
New Heater matrix installed,

Looks great :agree:

Few changes over the last couple of days,

1. OE headlights fitted,
2. OE orange front and side repeaters fitted,
3. Passenger side window regulator removed and re-greased,
4. Removed the interior red carpet to give it a nice clean,

Removed the tailgate badge as well, it needed refreshing as the paint was flakey and horrible (british racing green) so being re-done in std colours (Johnny5)

Nice to be able to play with the styling details :)

Are you missing a tow-eye cover?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Trevhib

Nice to be able to play with the styling details :)

Are you missing a tow-eye cover?

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No I have the tow eye cover it's in the glove box as I don't want to loose it:D

way better than an evo lol. looks great james :) glad u back in the 5 scene

Some more parts fitted this eve to kinda finalise the car

1. Genuine Renault Plastic scuttle cover,
2. Genuine Renault Plastic battery cover,
3. Valeo Heater fan as mine was noisey so got a nice tight one now no noise :D,
4. Heater control panel as mine never worked properly this one even clicks:agree:,
5. Screws for the door cards as I had a lot missing,
6. Plastic covers for the headlight bulbs now I have gone OE,
7. Windscreen lower blanking cover thing (Have lost it already :crap:) Mike I need another please :laugh:

Would like to thank Mike for a great service:agree: Hope you get better soon mate, you didn't look to good (not saying you do normally but you looked rougher than normal :D)


Hoping to have the side decals fitted this week or next if I can get hold of someone local to do it:agree:

I love all the finishing details when it comes to projects like this. They so often get neglected.

The lower windscreen clip/bung, just put a very small blob of silicone to hold it in place :agree:

Couple of pic's

Side decals being fitted next monday:agree: hopefully tailgate badge will be back next week aswell:D

Car looks mint mate! But where's the tailpipe?

Sneaky sidey :D

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Tutuur

Car looks mint mate! But where's the tailpipe?

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Cheers Arthur it's coming on nicely, previous owner made it look good I have just got it running and sorting the other bit's out, dash removal at some point as I need to source a mint dash

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Trevhib

Sneaky sidey :D

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:agree:

Looking at the side skirt, it does look a little black:D

You keeping it now mate?

Side decals fitted:D

they look awesome james:agree:

Wow, what an improvement :agree:

I'm in love with this car now. It's exactly how I'd style a GTT if I still had one (possibly with a 3" rear exit and a Euro near-side rear cluster) :cry:

Can we have an updated list of bits and bobs still to be done? :)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Trevhib

Wow, what an improvement :agree:

I'm in love with this car now. It's exactly how I'd style a GTT if I still had one (possibly with a 3" rear exit and a Euro near-side rear cluster) :cry:

Can we have an updated list of bits and bobs still to be done? :)

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Cheers Trev, a rear exit is something i would like but it's finding one with a 2.5" bore all the way through is hard.

Thing's to be done is very small

1. Replace dash (current one not to bad but not perfect),
2. Rear Seatbelts as both sides not working correctly,
3. Await return of tailgate badge after refurb,
4. Fit a decent cam,
5. Oil and filter change,

Ai, not many 2.5" rear exits about, you might have to get one made.

Have you done the heater matrix yet or will that be part of the dash replacement job? :)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Trevhib

Wow, what an improvement :agree:

I'm in love with this car now. It's exactly how I'd style a GTT if I still had one (possibly with a 3" rear exit and a Euro near-side rear cluster) :cry:

Can we have an updated list of bits and bobs still to be done? :)

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You an your euro light clusters Trev :wasntme:

:o:innocent:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Trevhib

Ai, not many 2.5" rear exits about, you might have to get one made.

Have you done the heater matrix yet or will that be part of the dash replacement job? :)

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Think there is a power flow not to far I will give them a call and see what sort of price I am looking at for a full 2.5" system with a tiny silencer like the sidey.

Heater matrix done already:D

Will speak to Mike about obtaining a minty mint dash

Thanks for the side decals James, I'm sure that was part of the deal 😉

Your doing her proud and I'm glad your finishing where my enthusiasm drifted away...

Odd how I'm buying another now.

It's looking great. Top job. Just need to get some 13s on her now ;)

Looks great! The stickers definitely finish it off.

What's the ride height? I'm still thinking of lowering mine a touch and yours looks just about right to me.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by JRP

Thanks for the side decals James, I'm sure that was part of the deal 😉

Your doing her proud and I'm glad your finishing where my enthusiasm drifted away...

Odd how I'm buying another now.

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Cheers JRP's glad your happy with what I have done, it's a good specced car with good looks aswell :D:agree:

If you need a hand with the new 5 let me know I am more than happy to come up like the ole day's and work on it.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by LiamR

It's looking great. Top job. Just need to get some 13s on her now ;)

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Won't fit over the front brake as running the 285 discs and extenders, never been a fan of the std alloy and balloon tyres, only pic I have of it with std 13's on is one of JRP's old pic's and strangley enough my old tungy is in the background:laugh:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Matty

Looks great! The stickers definitely finish it off.

What's the ride height? I'm still thinking of lowering mine a touch and yours looks just about right to me.

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Cheers :agree: ref ride height it's running eibach -50mm lowering springs on Koni yellow adjustable, the pic's are on a slight slope the car sit's pretty even all round on a flat surface, I can take some measurements if you wish

Yeah if you could take some measurements from the wheel arches to the ground that would be great! :)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Matty

Yeah if you could take some measurements from the wheel arches to the ground that would be great! :)

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Won't be for a few weeks I need a flat surface and I won't be using it for a while.

After doing all the above I have taken the plunge as I was after more power and EFI and the sensible route was to do yet another conversion again :laugh::agree::D still keeping it Renault and turbo. I will update with pic's as I go along:D

Sounds interesting. What you doing with the downpipe? 1st dibs if no one else has got in b4 me ;):D.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Nad-5GTT

Sounds interesting. What you doing with the downpipe? 1st dibs if no one else has got in b4 me ;):D.

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Dude sorry my complete setup has / will be going as a complete package to new owner:agree:

I've never really liked any of the GTT side decals, Ph1 or 2, but they just seem to work with your car and those F1s! Love it!

Decals make em look cool and just like back in the day!!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by James5

After doing all the above I have taken the plunge as I was after more power and EFI and the sensible route was to do yet another conversion again :laugh::agree::D still keeping it Renault and turbo. I will update with pic's as I go along:D

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fancy a crossflow :scratch:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Andrew Cooke

fancy a crossflow :scratch:

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The new lump already is (wish I could afford Gordini setup)

Had the day off today, didn't get much done at all due to the crappy rain this morning and then school run later in the afternoon so I had an hour to do as much as I could so a few bits, removed hopefully get another hour tomorrow and Ill pull the rest of the bits off and get the engine out :agree:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by James5

The new lump already is (wish I could afford Gordini setup)

Had the day off today, didn't get much done at all due to the crappy rain this morning and then school run later in the afternoon so I had an hour to do as much as I could so a few bits, removed hopefully get another hour tomorrow and Ill pull the rest of the bits off and get the engine out :agree:

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Engine, is now out :agree: Crikey surprised how dirty the bay gets from just a few hundred miles :crap: got damm white car's:laugh:

Pics James come on you know the rules being a mod ;)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Nad-5GTT

Pics James come on you know the rules being a mod ;)

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Ok not the best of pic's just an empty bay

I think most people's mouths are still hanging open at the idea that having just about finished the detailing on this brilliant build the engine has come back out quick smart! :D

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Trevhib

I think most people's mouths are still hanging open at the idea that having just about finished the detailing on this brilliant build the engine has come back out quick smart! :D

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Nah, James swapping and changing engines is as predictable as Penfold swapping cars. :D

A few things left to do for the conversion -

1. Accelerator cable fitment (When new cable arrives),
2. Starter motor bolts x 3 (when they arrive),
3. Intercooler fitment (angle grinder to cut section out of cross member),
4. Intercooler boost run (going to be long),
5. Modify bulkhead for cable routing(angle grinder),
6. Engine Wireing, rev counter, etc...
7. Mount fastchips ECU,
8. Re-fit bulkhead heat shield (and modify it with angle grinder slightly),
9. Re-fit strut brace,
10. Engine coolant fill,
11. Turn the key and hope ok:D

what engine are you putting in James?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Jeff Ninebar

what engine are you putting in James?

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F7p turbo conversion nothing as amazing as Robbie's

ah nice, is that what you had in the grey one?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Jeff Ninebar

ah nice, is that what you had in the grey one?

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Yes but this one has a better turbo GT28rs the last one was just 200sx T28

The build is nothing special at present I am just putting it in to get running and then will tidy it all up once done, please ignore the colour scheme I will be changing this in the future :laugh:

It's currently on hold pending arrival of parts, the car should be at the next surrey meet:D

looks good already mate, proper quick one out one in job there. :burnrubber:

didn't take you long james to get that together :coffee:

Good work mate.:)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by wilton_warrior

didn't take you long james to get that together :coffee:

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only takes james 2 weeks to do a full resto :laugh:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by R5MJH

only takes james 2 weeks to do a full resto :laugh:

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:D Hopefully going to do a little bit more this eve when the kids in bed:agree:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by James5

:D Hopefully going to do a little bit more this eve when the kids in bed:agree:

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Well it's kinda running turned it over for a few sec's (no coolant it but fires up fine), still awaiting some parts

Accelerator cable,
Starter motor bolts,
Fit the intercooler,
Wire in the OE dash gauges,
Obtain gtt header tank bracket,
Obtain injector metal clips to the fuel rail

Update - Running, the smoke at the rear is a coolant leak from the turbo lower outlet.

Video -

http://i252.photobucket.com/albums/h...psthzfdzf9.mp4



Jobs to do

1. Sort the oil leak (hopefully just main crank cap),
2. Loosen cam belt as a little tight,
3. Sort the coolant leak,
4. Look at why ICV valve is so noisey,
5. wire in the OE dash oil pressure gauge,
6. Fit the R19 16v cam pulley cover,
7. Fit the R19 16v throttle cable bracket,
8. Fit the R19 16v cam cover breather setup,

how have you rooted turbo coolant root james??

also ready to drop another in for me soon>??:laugh:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by R5MJH

how have you rooted turbo coolant root james??

also ready to drop another in for me soon>??:laugh:

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Turbo coolant I have done the same as the clio boys, which is side of head to top of turbo, bottom turbo feed to top of header tank. I still have a bit to do as massive oil leak when engine is angled to passenger side :-( hopefully not crank seal, I am hoping its the main cap that needs sealant on. Hoping to sort this week and be ready for surrey meet, I also want to get a few local miles before I drive it so far LOL


Let me no when and I will help :agree:

edit - PP as of 01/02/2015

Fixed the oil leak was the main crank cap seal, appear to have sorted as no longer leaking, replaced the head core plugs as noticed coolant floating in top, fitted R19 16v throttle cable bracket, Fitted R19 16v cam breather setup, Still to fit R19 16v cam pulley cover, fit heater matrix pipes when sourced.

Running steady now mate? What was the issue?

New boot badge fitted:agree: (Well refurbed original badge many thanks Jonny5):D

New FPR, and 440 universal location

Refurbed OE badge, devil sticker and clio valver coil wiring for dizzy setup

awesome work as always dude, cant wait to get started on mikes now:agree:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by R5MJH

awesome work as always dude, cant wait to get started on mikes now:agree:

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I am almost done just awaiting a new loom from EFI- Parts and some other bit's to start again with loom and then hopefully get it up to Scoff for mapping:agree:

Then we can do yours

Quote:

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Originally Posted by James5

I am almost done just awaiting a new loom from EFI- Parts and some other bit's to start again with loom and then hopefully get it up to Scoff for mapping:agree:

Then we can do yours

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awesome ill suck ya knob better than ya missus pmsl:laugh::laugh::laugh:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by R5MJH

awesome ill suck ya knob better than ya missus pmsl:laugh::laugh::laugh:

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That's a fair quote, I thought she was average... :agree:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by FlashbangGtt

That's a fair quote, I thought she was average... :agree:

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:agree:

How the bay looks at present - needs a good clean

And now car is running on adaptronic base map be it a little lumpy and tappety (Hydraulic lifters need to fill with oil) :laugh:

Ill upload a video in a bit, anyone good with adaptronic to give me some advice on getting it to idle better, so I can drive it to Scoff's for mapping soon :agree:

Think my afr gauge itself might be faulty?


http://i252.photobucket.com/albums/h...pspxyhi3pj.mp4

I swear I miss everything these days. I'm shocked John sold the car, but you've definitely lucked out on that!
It looks perfect :cool: Show and shine potential.
You don't mess about with the engine swaps do you :laugh:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by scratcher

I swear I miss everything these days. I'm shocked John sold the car, but you've definitely lucked out on that!
It looks perfect :cool: Show and shine potential.
You don't mess about with the engine swaps do you :laugh:

---

in my eyes he is the no1 for all ya needs pmsl:laugh::laugh:

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by scratcher

I swear I miss everything these days. I'm shocked John sold the car, but you've definitely lucked out on that!
It looks perfect :cool: Show and shine potential.
You don't mess about with the engine swaps do you :laugh:

---

I'm surprised too

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by JRP

I'm surprised too

---

:D

Well it's finally running nicely, just need to drive it to hopefully sort out the hydraulic lifter noise, also got new ht cover decal, and another loom kit from the main man at efi part's so I can do a nice fresh loom:agree:



http://i252.photobucket.com/albums/h...psbrjflg4r.mp4

Lovin' this build! Nice work. I'm not sure where to place my Fuel Regulator and the position you've chosen works well, but then your Intake Manifold is at the front of the Engine.

Looking good James. :cool: Are you sticking with the log manifold or looking to change that later down the line? :)

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Goobie

Looking good James. :cool: Are you sticking with the log manifold or looking to change that later down the line? :)

---

Cheers Goobie. no plan's to change the log manifold at present. Just want to drive the car, got a slight pressurisation issue at the moment. Only started doing this since I changed the rad for my spare as original leaked, so going to order a brand new one today.

Well what a crap last few days for me the car has gone 2 step backwards, still not driven the car properly, had a few issue's coolant pressurisation when car was coming upto temp (done the usual tests of stat which is fine) and blockages which is fine the explanation I can come across is that the car was not doing this prior to me fitting a spare rad as the original had a slight leak and since doing this the car coolant has pressurised out of the header tank, I have now gone and puchased a brand new rad to which I still need to fit. (gingers crossed it's not h/g).

So whilst awaiting for the parts to turn up I have done a fresh engine loom as the original was not the best (to many cut's solder and heatshrink than i was happy with), this time I have added a few extra Aux out puts from the ecu (rad fan control, ICV control) used nice braided wire covering.

Also the hydraulic lifters have been noisey from day one I have now replaced all 16, what a pain in the arse to do as 3 of the cam carrier bolts were already fecked so I had to weld a couple of nuts onto 2 of them to get them off the 3rd was awkward I ended up drilling the head off and using a stud extractor to pull the rest out. anyway all 16 now replaced with brand new just awaiting new cam carrier bolts to arrive as i didn't want to get OE bolt's due to this issue I have ordered some M8 flanged titanium headed bolts to hopefully stop problems like this in thr future.


To do -

Fit the cam carriers,
Fit new Cam carrier bolts when they arrive,
Change oil filter and oil,
Cambelt fitting and timing,
Fit the brand new rad and slimline fan,
Fit the bloody awkward lower rad pipe,
Fill with fresh coolant,
Fit new head tank cap (when it arrives),
Fit and re-tension the alternator and it's belt's,
Fit Inter cooler and pipe run,
Charge battery,

Hopw for best coolant pressure issue resolved and the noisey lifters are sorted

Nice update :)

I very nearly said previously that the rad looked a bit battered in this pic. Was this the rad you swapped out or swapped in?

https://www.rtoc.org/boards/attachmen...1&d=1424606463

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Trevhib

Nice update :)

I very nearly said previously that the rad looked a bit battered in this pic. Was this the rad you swapped out or swapped in?

---

Thats the swapped out rad

Loom looks very tidy, now you had some practise, you can sort out Mikes loom. :cooter:

Well after yet a few more issue's, coolant pressurisation, not running I have finally got the old girl fired up tonight (not for long though as it's late and kids in bed but let it run for 2min's).

Jobs done since last update

1. 16 Brand new Hydraulic Lifters (Still noisey car needs to be driven),
2. replaced all the cam carriers bolts with different type (M8 x40 for anyone whom wishe's to change there's),
3. Fresh oil change,
4. New FRAM Oil Filter,
5. Brand new NRF rad,
6. Amended the coolant setup pipework,
7. Fitted brand new Header tank cap,
8. Re-done the complete ECU loom with a brand new one (much neater),
9. Installed ICV,
10. Sorted Rad fan so ECU controlled,

Just hope I have managed to get rid of the coolant pressurisation issue. The story of this is the 1st rad leaked but no coolant pressurisation issue car would run up to temp and rad fan kick in and out, 2nd rad was a spare from a valver I broke that ran fine with no issue but rad had been stored for about 2-3 years it didn't leak but I had coolant pressurisation issue once fitted so I amended the coolant pipe run still had issue's fitted a brand new header tank cap still the same, I have now replaced rad for the 3rd time this time with a brand new item and not actually been able to start the car as it has not wanted to start with the cold weather would start then die straight away. (Starting issue sorted see attached screenshot in which increased the coolant enrichment through the range by 5%)

Video of my pressurisation issue with the 2nd rad in place, you have all seen the previous vid's in this thread with no problems and rad was only thing changed.

http://i252.photobucket.com/albums/h...psd2npw77l.mp4

Fingers crossed all sorted just need to drive it and hopefully just minor issue's on the inital drive

You mate are a beast

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by kial

You mate are a beast

---

I wish. Updated this thread way to soon still got issue's:crap:, went to drive the car this morning to work (only 4.6miles away) made the dual carriageway and then back home engine felt horrible (I know it's timed correctly and tensioned correctly and what I have done is correct, I have a fear that the head isn't getting enough oil and causing the problem) Good news though no coolant pressure issue anymore :D Decided this is the last straw going to pull this engine out and rebuild the bloody thing myself.

Going to replace the cylinder head as fear it has a blocked oil way, going to replace the oil pump, and rebuild the bottom end and see what's going on as some thing is not right with this engine (wish I had pulled it apart before I Dropped it in). Mrs's is going to love me doing this at least car runs so it is literally just the engine.


Looks like I will be fitting an F4r flywheel now as engine is coming out so can go wasted:D (F4r flywheel ordered and on way)

keep ur chin up son :agree:

Great determination :agree: You'll get there mate. And your recent experiences will mean you'll be much more efficient at getting it out, built up and in again.

Anything else you can add whilst it out? Ps, you do love a job list don't you. :laugh:

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Goobie

Anything else you can add whilst it out? Ps, you do love a job list don't you. :laugh:

---

:laugh: Without a list I would forget what to do, you should see the amount of notepads I go through.

Couple of parts on way

F4r flywheel,
F7p Head :agree:

Heads off the car whilst I check it over, before I do anything else major

Found a few issue's already the exhaust cam is bone dry in the chambers, yet the inlet has plenty of oil.


Close up pic of one of the rear exhaust cam chambers all 4 are like this bone dry. "2nd pic is how the car now is:crap:

that don't look right, how come the oil is not getting to them?

:cry:

Looks like I will need a new block now aswell. Why oh why did I not strip this down to start with:crap:

Anyway took the morning of work managed to pull the remainder of the F7p out

Parts sourced so far,

1. Decent F7p cylinder with carriers (Mr Wilton),
2. Decent F7p std cam's (Mat Brown),
3. 172 Flywheel (ebay),
4. Decent F7p complete block (Bass) hopefully collecting Wednesday eve)

What's wrong with the block mate?

Not very lucky are you:cry:

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Tutuur

What's wrong with the block mate?

Not very lucky are you:cry:

---

Score Marks on all 4 bores only light scores marks, considering this car has only really been idleing I am putting it down to an oil starvation issue within the block, Just going to strip the forged rods and forged pistons out hopefully they are ok, will more than likely need new rings, the bearings is obvious to replace anyway

Update I will let the pic's do the talking :cry::crap:

feel sorry for you james, least after all this effort you will have a genuine piece of mind reliable engine. pushing good numbers too. :agree:

:disagree: bummer.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by wilton_warrior

feel sorry for you james, least after all this effort you will have a genuine piece of mind reliable engine. pushing good numbers too. :agree:

---

Chris many thanks, and again can't thank you enough for all the parts I have got of yourself in the last few days to sort this out, head, stat housing etc...

Small update, meet up with Armajit aka Bass last night picked up a complete engine from him and as a bonus it would appear I have a complete Williams head in the deal (needs a good clean though).

Many thanks to Matt Brown on the valver facebook group for a decent pair of valver cam's,

Already booked the block in with the machine shop for turbo oil drain drilling / tapping into block and honing of the bores. Just need to strip it down now and hopefully get a chance to do that later this eve and drop off tomorrow @ machine shop.

I will keep update as going along. Hopefully be back together fully assembled within the next couple of weeks:agree:

any time james

Update -

Block is now with the machine shop so should get that back in the next couple of day's. Spent a few hours this evening sorting out my parts and then re-assembled the replacement head for the build. Some pic's attached of it assembled and lubed.


Should add I have also made an extra section of loom for the 4pin wasted spark coilpack when the car goes back in it will be running wasted spark setup using a 172 flywheel.:D

As was looking at turbo noticed a slight issue.

Light off

Light on


Problem now sorted found a suitable bolt to replace the hole. That would have been a bugger of a boost leak to find:agree:

Sneaky hole that, probably just saved your self hours of head scratching right there. :laugh:

Head looks mint, you gotton carried away polishing it? :cooter: Not long now then, shame won't have it at this Wednesday meet, but at least you know it's all going to be how it should be. :agree:

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Goobie

Sneaky hole that, probably just saved your self hours of head scratching right there. :laugh:

Head looks mint, you gotton carried away polishing it? :cooter: Not long now then, shame won't have it at this Wednesday meet, but at least you know it's all going to be how it should be. :agree:

---

Glad I noticed as you say would have been:scratch::rob: for ages.

Would have been nice to get it to a meet been unable to use it for far to long now why oh why did I pull out a really well running C1J setup :cry:

A few more part's awaited ordered last night

1. New triple layer head gasket,
2. New Head bolts,
3. ACL race bearings,
4. New Wossner piston ring set,

Many thanks Andy & Dan @ engine dynamics for the assistance with sourcing the ring's ended up buying all above from them just for convenience.


Just need the block back now to get it all back together

Well this get's even better :cry::crap:
Removed the turbo oil drain connection on turbo last night as replacing with a better connection only to look inside and notice something in there upon getting it out and it would appear to be part of the cover that holds the bearings in place in the dual bearing core I even found 3 ball bearing's. I am so :mad: is an understatement, car has seen no boost from me I have only driven it up the road and pushed it back down to my place. What has gone from a full package F7pt setup I am now basically buying it all again and starting from scratch.

Ill upload some pic's later

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by James5

Well this get's even better :cry::crap:
Removed the turbo oil drain connection on turbo last night as replacing with a better connection only to look inside and notice something in there upon getting it out and it would appear to be part of the cover that holds the bearings in place in the dual bearing core I even found 3 ball bearing's. I am so :mad: is an understatement, car has seen no boost from me I have only driven it up the road and pushed it back down to my place. What has gone from a full package F7pt setup I am now basically buying it all again and starting from scratch.

Ill upload some pic's later

---

this is a fecking joke james u would of been better selling the decent c1j and then building a new f7 speced engine, if I was u I wouldn't be so understanding, you've basically got a sprapper, not 1 part of this engine setup has been in a useable condition, id be inclined to put it back together and exchange back the c1j, goobs wants a c1j matey, as always if you need any help jim im there for ya sir:agree:

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by R5MJH

this is a fecking joke james u would of been better selling the decent c1j and then building a new f7 speced engine, if I was u I wouldn't be so understanding, you've basically got a sprapper, not 1 part of this engine setup has been in a useable condition, id be inclined to put it back together and exchange back the c1j, goobs wants a c1j matey, as always if you need any help jim im there for ya sir:agree:

---

Cheers Mick, the only parts I have actually still got out of the deal are the forged rods, intercooler, downpipe and fuel pump the rest is all different and non of the original setup. The original stuff is in my shed pending me scrapping it all.

Have found a turbo place that will do a quick turnaround as I have mapping soon and don't want to mess Scoff around again, but will look into the CHRA cores like you suggested Mick, it's finding one:agree:

James, do you ever get the feeling some one trying to tell you some thing with this F7 build? :ashamed::laugh: Maybe your Mrs is popping out side while your at work and giving it a few wacks with her rolling pin. :cooter:

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Goobie

James, do you ever get the feeling some one trying to tell you some thing with this F7 build? :ashamed::laugh: Maybe your Mrs is popping out side while your at work and giving it a few wacks with her rolling pin. :cooter:

---

:agree::agree: Have to agree does seem that way. I have got this far going to see it through now then sell and buy and EVO 6 again:D

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by James5

:agree::agree: Have to agree does seem that way. I have got this far going to see it through now then sell and buy and EVO 6 again:D

---

:laugh::laugh::laugh::laugh: I know the feeling. :ashamed:

Small update New big ends and Wossner rings have arrived from Engine dynamic's still a few more things to come when in stock hopefully next week now

Update engine Done,

Just awaiting re-furbished gt28rs turbo, still got to fit the 172 flywheel, and clutch then it's ready to be dropped back in.:agree:

great work jim :D I can't keep up lol, back on road within next week i recon and should be proper fast, dont roll this one either ok?:laugh::cooter:

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by R5MJH

great work jim :D I can't keep up lol, back on road within next week i recon and should be proper fast, dont roll this one either ok?:laugh::cooter:

---

be more than a week now as turbo not being collected until Tuesday :crap: darn bank holiday's:laugh:

I would drop it in before just so much easier to drop it in with turbo attached as a bugger todo at rear with lack of spce

Taking it fast!

Just ordered a new water pump, might aswell replace as it's all out of the bay:agree:

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Tutuur

Taking it fast!

---

Got to get it sorted need it ready for scoffs only got a few weeks:D

Further update this eve.

Installed the additional section of the wiring loom to the car for the wasted spark, removed the old clio igntion coil as no longer needed.

And Amended the ECU map for flywheel pattern and coil pack

Slight update had 1/2 day holiday today so whilst the weather was good:agree:

Nothing really interesting New water pump arrived today

Now all you need is the turbo:agree:

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Tutuur

Now all you need is the turbo:agree:

---

:agree: Hopefully soon :D

Bit of an update the engine is all in the car apart from a turbo and engine coolant and oil.

Had some bad news about the turbo from the rebuild place today :-(, once I get over the how much I have been ****ed over here I will post about it seeing as out of this deal all I have is a fuel pump, downpipe, forged rods and a ebay intercooler:crap:

Some pics of the knackered GT28rs

List given by turbo place,

Shaft badly scored even chipped, rear turbine blades damaged, rear housing has crack so large it will need replacing.

I am currently awaiting this to be priced up but so far new bearing kit, shaft + rear wheel and rear housing and seals required, might see ig they can get a .86 rear if I am having to get this rebuilt to as new

this is utterly appalling, so in the end thats all ya ended up wiv a load of shite james, id be delivering it back promptly through there front room windows, wo betide goobs if theres anything wrong with mikes, i know what you spent and think u should get all the c1j stuff back for what you spent the turbo alone is a fortune:cry::cry::cry:

Problem is if I give it all back he will have my new rebuilt engine so kinda pointless on that now. Do feel I am owed as the whole thing was scrap.

Give him back all the broken parts and get your c1j back for free! :D I think I know some where you can keep it safe. ;):agree:

I've got a brand new .86 rear mate, could save you some cash;)

Oh dear :( That turbo is a mess.

Well I have the GT28rs on its way back not being rebuilt as running out of cash due to my massive expenditure over the last month, but I have picked up GT28r for now, in a few months once I am running and have a few months driving out of it I may get the good parts of the RS added to the r to make it an RS.

Arthur when I have some cash I will have that .86 rear of you:agree:

Ok looking promising now the GT28r has arrived today, I have rotated the housings to the correct positions, fitted my GT28rs actuator and set the cracking pressure to 19psi (might be a little high but easy to adjust rod later) blades spin nicely and a good thing no bearing hanging out the core, just awaiting my GT28rs back now as I need the adaptors back for the downpipe and the oil drain.

Had a bit of an issue with the car bodywork yesterday morning went to clean the car only to notice that something had sprayed the car and was not coming off, so a quick call to my valeter friend for some advice I started on the job he then turned up and took over :laugh:

A quick update car is now back together and complete, went to crank / prime the car but engine was a little hard to turnover due to being a fresh build. Battery on charge and will remove sparkies next time help, and add another earth and check starter wiring just in case and issue

good work, see you in it tomorrow night then?:D

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Jeff Ninebar

good work, see you in it tomorrow night then?:D

---

I wish I just don't have the time between now and then to attempt to get it running, but at least it's in one piece now

Good to see it all back together!

Issue found now I have removed the spark plugs, cranks over much better but but number 3 full of coolant, would appear MLS gasket not sealing properly, I had the block refaced when I had the work done to it, I didn't have the head done though. Anyway I have a spare head and will get that re-faced and pressure tested.

mate its like one thing after the other :cry:

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Jeff Ninebar

mate its like one thing after the other :cry:

---

Tell me about it Jeff, booked the day off work Monday to have a look and see what needs doing on it.

I have also picked up some bucket seats and will fit them on Monday and store the std stuff in the loft

Suppose I should update, the car is almost back together bar the turbo downpipe and coolant. So another cylinder head fitted, another MLS gasket (this will be last one I buy before I start getting OE ones), New head bolts followed the 7stage process in the Haynes ( which seemed to click at 100nm on the torque wrench on final 107deg. Even fitted a new cambelt seeing as I have taken the last one on and off many a time (will keep it as spare).

Went to crank / prime it on the original battery which was fully charged only for it to rotate very slow, tested it and it was showing as holding charge but doing nothing so that's a dead battery. I then stole the Big Bosch battery out of the boost bus and crikey engine cranked / primed over very fast (much bigger battery than original). Went for a fire up but I could not get it fire / start, I have fuel injectors firing I have crank sensor signal, and car clearly turning over. I need to make sure it's sparking so will remove a plug and do the normal arc it out and see if it fires, this could be an ECU setting as I have gone wasted spark now (I have changed the setting's possible incorrect dwell timing) anyway due to lack of time I was unable to check these.

New VARTA D21 battery ordered should be with me today, considering locating this in the boot seeing as I still have a battery relocation kit from my EVO 6 spare.

I have also removed the OE seats and fitted a pair of Black cobra Monaco S buckets seats and black Cobra harnesses (stored the OE stuff in the loft)

come on james finger out, I want this running asap:cool:

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by R5MJH

come on james finger out, I want this running asap:cool:

---

I am tempted to go play with the car in the rain this eve seeing as I plan on working within the car in relocating the battery to the boot and checking my wiring for the coilpack :agree:

Pic is a little boring just the new Varta D2 silver battery and alloy battery tray.

Had a few mins to spare this eve so relocated the battery to the boot.

Also removed the ECU to have a look at the ecu file and realised that the injector trigger pattern was on quarter sequential no wonder it wouldn't start. ECU now amended and will try in next few days to start the car now nice bigger more powerfull battery fitted and correct ecu trigger setting's

Just need to clean all the leaves out of where the battery used to be :agree:

Ok, an update, head off and thrown in a close bush near by, would appear the new MLS is just scrap not even been able to start the car on this one just cranked over but look at state of the gasket.

Block rotates nicely with 19mm socket on the crank pulley,

Pic attached is head number 4 :laugh: with all the parts swapped over ready to bolt onto block pending the arrival of the new 1.3mm Engine dynamics head gasket and bolt's.

Decided to change the colour of the cam cover as gone of the blue it is actually Renault Glacier white just a bad pic (well Halfords rattle can version anyway) Do wonder how long it will stay this colour for:D

What a palaver this has been :(

You managed to get the rocker cover exactly the same colour as your tea tray :D

Fingers crossed for this time mate

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by LeeR5GTT

Fingers crossed for this time mate

---

+1:agree:
this car better fecking start or it may get torched, this car has caused so many problems and money since the reliable c1j was removed, obviously the c1j was happy, mikes aint far behind i hope it starts too

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Trevhib

What a palaver this has been :(

You managed to get the rocker cover exactly the same colour as your tea tray :D

---

:agree::D Hopefully this is the end of it. Is a very close match to the tray :coffee:

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by LeeR5GTT

Fingers crossed for this time mate

---

Cheers Lee, bloody hope so :agree:

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by R5MJH

+1:agree:
this car better fecking start or it may get torched, this car has caused so many problems and money since the reliable c1j was removed, obviously the c1j was happy, mikes aint far behind i hope it starts too

---

Mick You know it :agree::smokin:

The ole C1J should be back on the road soon aswell as the new owner has put a high lift cam in situ in which is all it needed to get more out of it. Was a good setup

Spent a couple of hours this eve on the car, progress attached

Few thing's left to do

1. Turbo oil feed fit,
2. Turbo oil drain pipe do up
3. Turbo Heatshield fit,
4. Devil Strut brace bolts,
5. Fit battery back in boot,
6. Replace the broken brown coolant sensor plug,
7. Turbo downpipe bolt's,
8. Check cambelt tension again,
9. Fill with coolant,

Turning the engine over with socket on the crank pulley just to make sure turns ok

http://i252.photobucket.com/albums/h...pslupdcfam.mp4

There is no flys on you James. Well done

Not done any work on the car today but popped in an took a pic of the bay in daylight

172 starter now fitted some amendments required to boost run and turbo compressor angle. This is due to new starter solenoid being on the top now and not on the side.

Can't touch car for few weeks now as I had surgery (ongoing medical issue) so just been ordering more parts to hopefully finalise.

List of things to do - When medically well to do,

1. Charge the battery,
2. Remove starter and put locating dowel in correct place for 172 starter (Outer hole),
3. Finish of the re-routed turbo coolant pipes,
4. Re-do boost pipe run due to compressor housing outlet relocation,
5. Drill the scuttle for air filter relocation,
6. Mount the new air filter in scuttle location,
7. Top up with coolant,
8. Run it drive it,
9. Get it mapped

Almost there mate:agree:

Small Update, even though I have been off work due to some surgery I spent an hour last night down with the car and managed to do quite a bit, relocated air filter to scuttle battery location, made bracket to support air filter, fitted the turbo downpipe to exhaust lower gasket, finished the modified turbo coolant run, finished the changed boost pipe run, filled and bleed the coolant system.

Things left to do, -

1. Exhaust clamp 2 x 13mm nuts,
2. Cut 80mm hole into scuttle for air filter ducting(Due to air filter relocation),
3. Charge the battery,
4. Fingers crossed and prey:sos::sos::sos::sos::sos:,
5. Start the car

Keep up the good work mate your posts are the only thing keeping me motivated :)

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by kial

Keep up the good work mate your posts are the only thing keeping me motivated :)

---

:laugh: Glad one of us feels motivated:agree:. This fecking starter crap is pissing me off

Fingers crossed and prey:sos::sos::sos::sos::sos:


:laugh: i'm sure the RTOC Community will be with you in spirit when you turn the key:agree:

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Wallace

Fingers crossed and prey:sos::sos::sos::sos::sos:


:laugh: i'm sure the RTOC Community will be with you in spirit when you turn the key:agree:

---

:agree: Well I actually got it started still doesn't sound great, have had a look at the flywheel and ideally it could do with replacing (job to do when engine next comes out) I had to ditch the starter locating dowel was pushing the starter to hard against the flywheel, in the end I had to move the starter motor as far to rear of engine and as high as I could get it and then bolt it up.

I also finished a few niggly bits this morning, just awaiting the air filter ducting pipe to arrive still, and I still need to fit the turbo actuator to the wastegate (Pain in the arse to get the retaining C-clip on) but that's it mechanically for now I hope.

Well it kinda started LOL its progress anyway

ECU now back at mine so I can look at the triggers settings and crank positons.

http://i252.photobucket.com/albums/h...psr3ossesg.mp4

Great to hear James, can't believe you ditched me dowel lol :agree:

see you at Pod mate :)

Well few more issues the oil cooler decided to split :-( whilst cranking over so I lost a fair bit of oil :-( (shame the oil cooler has covered less than 600 miles and a few pod runs).

Never mind bought new one of ebay thankfully the sellers business premises is 15mins from me so got it quick and now fitted.

Also noted this eve when I popped over to do a few minor thing's that 2 pins on the ecu plugs were not going into the ecu correctly sorted that out turned the key and it starts, sounds tappety and sounded like running on 3 but at least it's now working :-)

http://i252.photobucket.com/albums/h...psm60bbt29.mp4

james this is the beat news ive heard all day and u know what my day was like

get it ready for pod now if u get the time as ya still not fully recovered yet

still god james:agree:

Noisey lifters but hopefully will settle

http://i252.photobucket.com/albums/h...psvj2ic1s1.mp4

Only few things to sort,

Rev counter does't seem to be working anymore so will check connections, also need to work out why if I hold the revs at around 2000rpm's it say 100% cut on the injectors line

well done james its alive and done its first trip to brighton

cant wait for pod now:D

my fat @rse fits in the Monaco's too:agree:

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by R5MJH

well done james its alive and done its first trip to brighton

cant wait for pod now:D

my fat @rse fits in the Monaco's too:agree:

---

:D:agree:
Covered 44 miles in the ole girl lifters nice and quiet now, only 2 small issues, but nothing major, throttle cable gets stuck and holds revs at 3000rpm's, the car dies on idle when coming up to any fecking junction (software related going to have a read on how to adjust idle via software).

Other than that all good:agree: All fluids at correct levels forgot how hot these engine's run:laugh:

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by James5

:D:agree:
Covered 44 miles in the ole girl lifters nice and quiet now, only 2 small issues, but nothing major, throttle cable gets stuck and holds revs at 3000rpm's, the car dies on idle when coming up to any fecking junction (software related going to have a read on how to adjust idle via software).

Other than that all good:agree: All fluids at correct levels forgot how hot these engine's run:laugh:

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kin hell the heat of the back of the engine was unreal, couldn't be more happy for you jim

just don't roll this 1:laugh: what bhp do you recon it would be running now?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by James5

:D:agree:
Covered 44 miles in the ole girl lifters nice and quiet now, only 2 small issues, but nothing major, throttle cable gets stuck and holds revs at 3000rpm's, the car dies on idle when coming up to any fecking junction (software related going to have a read on how to adjust idle via software).

Other than that all good:agree: All fluids at correct levels forgot how hot these engine's run:laugh:

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You can adjust the old skool way at throttle body like on a carb James

Good good James, no reason not to see it at the Brighton meet! :agree:

Ps, Come on Mick, taking your time with Freddy aren't you........ :cooter:

Glad to hear its up and running now James, will you drive it up to pod now?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Jeff Ninebar

Glad to hear its up and running now James, will you drive it up to pod now?

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Jeff the plan is to take the ole girl :agree: noticed a couple of leaks this morning, gear selctor C clip seems to be missing:scratch: Hoping Someone may be able to take one or have spare for me at pod.

And the fecking fuel tank has a leak aswell:crap:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by James5

Jeff the plan is to take the ole girl :agree: noticed a couple of leaks this morning, gear selctor C clip seems to be missing:scratch: Hoping Someone may be able to take one or have spare for me at pod.

And the fecking fuel tank has a leak aswell:crap:

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Is it leaking from the bung on the side?

Couple of pic's, this is how she has sat since the retro day, hopefully pull my finger out this week and get the engine out sort the crank seals, sort the turbo oil, replace the turbo rear housing for the bigger .86 I got from Arthur (Tutuur) many thanks buddy, replace the OS drive-shaft, modify the down pipe mating flange to sidey exit so it doesn't catch on everything. Ohh and replace the gearbox C clip as well (Many thanks Mike aka phase i 16v turbo)

Also picked up some mint turbines and had my goodyear eagle f1 tyres put onto them all but now not sure I am keen on them on my 5. (so they maybe on sale be up for a little more than I paid seeing as they have almost brand new tyres on now)

My old car looks good, how much jim bob for le turbines

Why are you replacing the C clip mate? Has it popped out before?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Tutuur

Why are you replacing the C clip mate? Has it popped out before?

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not the big C clip which you see when you pull drive shaft out ( i welded that one in)no this is the little one under the gearbox which selector rod goes on it's the first time it's popped out Mike has sent me a new white thing and the C clip to hold in place:agree:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by JRP

My old car looks good, how much jim bob for le turbines

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Cheers Jerps tried to keep it std looking exterior wise:agree:

Ah, completely forgot! The one you lost on your way down from Pod

Well yet again some bad news this eve not what I was expecting I ordered a brand new .86 rear housing yesterday and I thought I would strip the rear housing of my current turbo GT28r down ready for the new one only to find the blades damaged:-( the turbo looks perfect from the outside on the fins. Think this must have been like this before I got it considering we drove like grannies to santa pod and I was only boosting max of 3psi.

So that's 2 x GT series turbo's now paperweights,

So I decided to take the plunge and this eve ordered a brand new genuine garrett GT2871r from germany with the .86 rear, I also ordered a set of Deka 630cc injectors. This should be with me mid next week, in the meantime I will replace the crank seals and get it all ready to go back in with the new bits when they arrive.

Ill get some pic's of turbo tomorrow

this is shite news james, it seems not all people are not genuine when they sell there stuff, u will at least know this is proper as its new like mikes, your luck with this car has been 2nd to none james nothings gone right at all, this will put u on the right path now anyways, your injectors are similiar to mikes 650cc ones:agree:

Fido' curse it seems

Quote:

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Originally Posted by JRP

Fido' curse it seems

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:agree: Does seem a bit like that

Wonder how the oe ignition system will cope, better bring all your wasted spark stuff along to Scoff might it be a problem

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Tutuur

Wonder how the oe ignition system will cope, better bring all your wasted spark stuff along to Scoff might it be a problem

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I was going to install it all again when engine goes back in :-)

OE ignition system should be fine though if you look at Armajits setup

Well decided not to go to the surrey meet this eve but to spend some time on the 5, so I have now replaced both crank seals, replaced the flywheel for another clio 172 / 182 jobbie, torqued everything up, fitted the cam belt and set the tension, fitted re-useable PTFE cam cover gasket and ptfe TB gasket, I have the inlet to fit but no point until engine is in the car. The only reason I have used these gaskets is the fact they are re-usable.

http://www.powergaskets.co.uk/#!renault/cnjq

Looks like I need to source a decent exhaust manifold gasket as the new one I have on would appear to be blowing in several locations :crap: (no bother as engine out of the car is an easy task.

Engine is now awaiting the arrival of the new GT2871r before I can put it back in the car (Then I will have to drill out the mounting holes to M10 size).

Labour of love this :)

Often in the past I've seen problem cars finally tamed through bloody perseverance, only for the owner to sell it on, cause of the pain of the process. I hope you see this through to fruition and then enjoy those fruits of your labour James. :agree:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by James5

Well decided not to go to the surrey meet this eve but to spend some time on the 5, so I have now replaced both crank seals, replaced the flywheel for another clio 172 / 182 jobbie, torqued everything up, fitted the cam belt and set the tension, fitted re-useable PTFE cam cover gasket and ptfe TB gasket, I have the inlet to fit but no point until engine is in the car. The only reason I have used these gaskets is the fact they are re-usable.

http://www.powergaskets.co.uk/#!renault/cnjq

Looks like I need to source a decent exhaust manifold gasket as the new one I have on would appear to be blowing in several locations :crap: (no bother as engine out of the car is an easy task.

Engine is now awaiting the arrival of the new GT2871r before I can put it back in the car (Then I will have to drill out the mounting holes to M10 size).

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Keep at it, Bessie loves the attention trust me.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by JRP

Keep at it, Bessie loves the attention trust me.

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Bessie :laugh:

Slow progress still awaiting the arrival of the new turbo :-( issues with courier company (DHL).

To save some time I decided to drop the lump in with no turbo attached, I also replaced the OSF driveshaft at this point for a refurbed one the gaitor had a small hole, i also fitted the gearstick spring kit I picked up of Mike some time back aswell. I managed to damage a steering track rod end thread so new one is now on route now aswell :-)

Couple of pics how car stands at mo:(

Some new parts arrived :agree:

630cc deka's
turbo drain gasket for a turbo that will eventually arrive from Germany

MOT booked in,
Scoff booked in for mapping

New turbo has arrived:agree:

Lovely mate, now get it running again this weekend!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Tutuur

Lovely mate, now get it running again this weekend!

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I'll have to try do that before the weekend, Mot booked Saturday morning

Not been a good weekend, managed to get the car all back together only to find out that the exhaust manifold gasket that has only covered the drive to and from Santa Pod has blown :-( not sure where I got it from in the first place. So ordered a genuine Renault one from http://www.renaultpartsdirect.co.uk/

Also been thinking about possible heat issues for the master cylinder and brake lines, was looking into turbo blankets but decided against this, and I have a clio turbo heatshield spare so I started to hack it up to fit the R5, plan is to get it to fit nice and then cover it in a heat reflective material to make it looks respectable. Pic attached of it in situ after alot of material has been taken off.

I also had Mick (R5mjh) modify my turbo down pipe mating flange to exhaust as it would catch on everything just cut it off and re-welded it back on 90 deg job done.

Can't believe a year to the date I started working on the White 5 GTT, only a year and look how many changes the car has had, unbelievable.

Worked on the car this eve, new exhaust manifold gasket fitted with new copper nut's, fitted the Gt2871r, things left to do replace brake lines with the braided versions I have got and sort this bloody fuel tank leak.

Anyone got a decent std tank available?? that does not leak

Quote:

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Originally Posted by James5

Can't believe a year to the date I started working on the White 5 GTT, only a year and look how many changes the car has had, unbelievable.

Worked on the car this eve, new exhaust manifold gasket fitted with new copper nut's, fitted the Gt2871r, things left to do replace brake lines with the braided versions I have got and sort this bloody fuel tank leak.

Anyone got a decent std tank available?? that does not leak

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Strange how it's a year and in its place is another white beauty.
I did have that tank changed can't believe it's leaking already..

I'm so happy I sold it to you as you have done the car proud. It looks perfect and I'm sure old Bessie is happy, thanks for getting her finished where I couldn't.

If your looking to go to the trouble of removing the tank, you may as well just fix the one you got buddy as they all fail at the bung sooner or later. :agree:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Goobie

If your looking to go to the trouble of removing the tank, you may as well just fix the one you got buddy as they all fail at the bung sooner or later. :agree:

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:agree::agree:Goobie, thin k you are right I may aswell fix this one with the old soldering iron and plastic trick

Quote:

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Originally Posted by James5

:agree::agree:Goobie, thin k you are right I may aswell fix this one with the old soldering iron and plastic trick

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I need todo mine. Is it a case of just melt it? Is there not something I can buy to smother it with? I'm just worried as the tanks been off and empty a while now..:scratch:

I always just used the black silicone from Halfords. Never leaked once I sealed it with that 😀 same gear you would use to seal the sump etc

Update MOT passed this morning no advisories :-)

Tracking being sorted Monday morning:agree::D, then mapping on Tuesday:scared:

Everything coming together now then mate:agree:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Tutuur

Everything coming together now then mate:agree:

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Just hold up there, there are a lot of things that could happen between now and Tuesday :scared:

Fingers crossed James :agree:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Trevhib

Just hold up there, there are a lot of things that could happen between now and Tuesday :scared:

Fingers crossed James :agree:

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I know Trev, my main concern is the turbo oil drain sits so close to the driveshaft gaitor on the block I have modified the rtn pipe but still so close.

I really need a custom made alloy turbo oil drain pipe that literally needs to run flush with the block.

James when my tank was leaking I used fibre glass round the bung and it's still perfect to this day mate

I have only just got round to reading all this thread :scratch: great work James and Jeez you move quick with work :coffee:
I need to speed up :scared:

Cheer's guy's, I managed to drop the tank enough to allow me good access to the bung, pulled out what must have been an old repair, cleaned it up and I used some Special fuel resistant putty to bung the hole, not sure the leak is fully gone, it's defo from the bung area maybe on the outside rather than the inside of the bung area.

At least you know what the issue is for sure and can get to it without too much hassle, even if it takes a few goes to nail it. :agree:

Well not updated in a while had a few issues, managed to cover 966miles on the engine and on my way to mapping only 59 miles from Scoff's whilst cruising at 65mph after been driving for 4hours with no issues's I suddenly hear a horrible noise from the bottom end luckily I managed to coast the car from the dual carriageway to a service station.

Yes RAC were called. Whilst I was awaiting I took the opportunity to have a KFC at this point my mind was pondering and next thing I had stripped the front end off and managed to get the sump off to have a look at the damage. Yep spun a big end shell:crap:

So update is car is now back together with a new crank, bearings, new under piston oil squirters, New Grp N oil pump, New Greedy oil pressure kit and I replaced the rear discs after one of the bearings collapsed and the disc cracked.

All I need to do now is add coolant and play with map settings for the 630cc Injectors I have added:agree:

Well done James glad to here she all back together I like to hear the results of the new oil pump when she running hot as I have new oil which I have not fitted yet :):):)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by turbo ted

Well done James glad to here she all back together I like to hear the results of the new oil pump when she running hot as I have new oil which I have not fitted yet :):):)

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:agree: Will keep you posted hoping it's as good as using a 5mm spacer, little scared to start the ole girl at the mo LOL will get the courage up over the next few day's.

good work mate.... cant wait to see this on the road:agree:

:dearme:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by HarryR5

good work mate.... cant wait to see this on the road:agree:

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That's why we call it the eclipse, miss it and you'll be waiting months for the next one..


Sorry James :p

Quote:

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Originally Posted by FlashbangGtt

:dearme:

That's why we call it the eclipse, miss it and you'll be waiting months for the next one..


Sorry James :p

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:agree::agree: Dave I have to agree

https://youtu.be/tvl7hFHmmws

Quote:

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Originally Posted by James5

https://youtu.be/tvl7hFHmmws

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All I got from that was my double din consol with the Renault cover.... Now with added hole and gauge... Philistine

:laugh:

https://youtu.be/1rF9hpya5eE

https://youtu.be/JBDaWT4vRcs

not bad jim i could throw you a tow road lol

Sounds awesome James, be coming in this to the meet? :cool:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Goobie

Sounds awesome James, be coming in this to the meet? :cool:

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Cheers, Should be attending the surrey meet in the 5. Got a few things to do before hand like adjust the gear stick selector every time I try to go into 1st it goes into blodoy reverse :-(, want to fit the wasted spark setup aswell next and then fit the bigger 630cc deka's. Then it's ready for mapping

Quote:

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Originally Posted by R5MJH

not bad jim i could throw you a tow road lol

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RAC card never leaves the 5 :D

Well suppose I should update the thread the car has been running faultless for over 500+ miles, the car is about to go through it's 5th oil and filter change. I even spent last night out with friends and we covered 63 miles of pretty much thrashing are car's other than one stop (My old silver evo 6 was in the group aswell). Other than cornering the 5 kept up with no issue's. So was good just need to get it mapped properly now.

I am also picking up some part's this eve as I was going to wide track the car and have sensors on each corner on the ABS ring's so I can have boost by gear and launch control installed properly.

So the part's I will have this eve are from a Clio Mk1 172, that will be 172 Hubs, 172 Driveshaft's, 172 Front Calliper's and disc's, 172 rear disc's (Have ABS ring's on), valver wishbone's. I am now on the look for a later valver ABS complete rear beam so I can swap over the entire setup and getting a little wider track at the rear aswell as front

god phil comes up with the idea and you nick it and get all parts before him pmsl:laugh:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by R5MJH

god phil comes up with the idea and you nick it and get all parts before him pmsl:laugh:

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:laugh: It's because I want to be Phil :agree: Have to admit I was looking into this over the last few weeks, I almost purchased a complete valver a few weeks back from Amarjit but due to lack of space and the fact it was not abs type I had to pass up. I was trying to avoid the 172 stuff due to the extra work needed to fit them, hub's skimming for strut's then the issue of it giving an extra 7mm width each side. Then there's the camber issue and how to sort that (was hoping elongating the lower strut might work. Then the driveshaft's mods cut and weld to GTT shafts for correct lengths not just a case of swapping the hub end onto the GTT over due to size and internal difference's so I have been advised :-(

Assume I may have to look for longer track rods but I am tempted to change the track rods to some rod end bearing's :agree:

You can run with the existing 5 rear beam and use wheel spacers James? Using spacers on the rear won't be an issue to the geometry like it is when they are used in the front.

As for abs pick ups you could weld a bracket on to hold the abs sensor in place I believe others have done this.

Or another idea which I believe would work and possibly provide you with abs sensor mounts is to convert the 5 rear beam to the 172 rear stub axles. This should also widen the rear track and the abs 172 rear stub axle should have the mounts ready for the sensors. It also allows you the option to use the rear camber shims that are available.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Lewis

You can run with the existing 5 rear beam and use wheel spacers James? Using spacers on the rear won't be an issue to the geometry like it is when they are used in the front.

As for abs pick ups you could weld a bracket on to hold the abs sensor in place I believe others have done this.

Or another idea which I believe would work and possibly provide you with abs sensor mounts is to convert the 5 rear beam to the 172 rear stub axles. This should also widen the rear track and the abs 172 rear stub axle should have the mounts ready for the sensors. It also allows you the option to use the rear camber shims that are available.

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Lewis 172 rear stub axle's would they bolt on or need some major modding to fit?

Some modding required. According to Matt@coderedmotorsport "Heat up the stub, knock it out with a big hammer, cut the small flange off, grind/file it flat, modify the threads to accept countersunk bolts, bolt on 1*2 stubs with shims if you have some. Easy peasy!
Did it to one of the R5 gt turbos we race and my mk1 16v. Valvers use m8x1 bolts on the standard beam. The bolts are too short to re-use.

172 use 3 m10x1.5 and 1 m8x1.25 thread.

Drill out all 4 holes to 8.5mm and tap in a m10x1.5 thread into the beam.
And also drill out the fourth hole on the stub axle bigger to accept the m10 bolt. Top left one I believe.

You could in theory just find 4 longer m8x1 bolts use the standard holes and create a shim insert in the 172 stub axle to close up the hole.
But seeing as all the standard renault stuff fits I just bought 2 extra m10 bolts."

Images borrowed from Clio Sport
http://img94.imageshack.us/img94/8443/s6ir.jpg

http://img163.imageshack.us/img163/4418/5pbw.jpg

http://img4.imageshack.us/img4/6981/re8x.jpg

Clio 16v std rear width
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/10/x0vt.jpg


Clio 16v rear beam with 172 Stub axles
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800...0/819/4sem.jpg

Lewis many thanks great help, defo going to do that,:agree::agree::agree:

Good ole mod! Allows you to set camber too!

Why don't you just get 16v abs hubs for the front?
Or even easier, Clio 2 non sport hubs (exactly the same)

Only a small update, Cam cover off and sent to CTM for some Hydro Dipping, and ECU has been sent back to Scoff as IGn 2 output is not working. Car again now back of the road:cry:

:(

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Tutuur

:(

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It still worked if I wanted to keep it on dizzy using the IGN 1 output but the intention always was to use the wasted spark setup I had it was only when I went to put in wasted that I realised something was not right would only run on 2 cylinders, so a voltage test showed IGN 2 not doing anything. hoping scoff can fix what ever needs doing within the ecu.

I have installed the wasted spark setup awaiting the ECU return, I have also added to the loom for launch control Digital input 1 and the MVSS and SVSS wires for the hub sensors

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Lewis

Some modding required. According to Matt@coderedmotorsport "Heat up the stub, knock it out with a big hammer, cut the small flange off, grind/file it flat, modify the threads to accept countersunk bolts, bolt on 1*2 stubs with shims if you have some. Easy peasy!
Did it to one of the R5 gt turbos we race and my mk1 16v. Valvers use m8x1 bolts on the standard beam. The bolts are too short to re-use.

172 use 3 m10x1.5 and 1 m8x1.25 thread.

Drill out all 4 holes to 8.5mm and tap in a m10x1.5 thread into the beam.
And also drill out the fourth hole on the stub axle bigger to accept the m10 bolt. Top left one I believe.

You could in theory just find 4 longer m8x1 bolts use the standard holes and create a shim insert in the 172 stub axle to close up the hole.
But seeing as all the standard renault stuff fits I just bought 2 extra m10 bolts."

Images borrowed from Clio Sport
http://img94.imageshack.us/img94/8443/s6ir.jpg

http://img163.imageshack.us/img163/4418/5pbw.jpg

http://img4.imageshack.us/img4/6981/re8x.jpg

Clio 16v std rear width
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/10/x0vt.jpg


Clio 16v rear beam with 172 Stub axles
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800...0/819/4sem.jpg

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Lewis do we know ho much wider doing the 172 rear stub axle conversion will make the gtt?? using these bit's??

Will add about 1cm each side iirc

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Tutuur

Will add about 1cm each side iirc

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:agree:Cheers Arthur looking at my current setup I should have enough clearance at present for that as I am running ET37 Alloys and only 7" wide aswell

Got a couple of update pic's from CTM this morning on my cam cover looking good apparently still not finished it yet, think some more clear coats and a polish up. I only went for a white background and a honeycomb effect, didn't want anything in your face. Now thinking of getting my cam pulleys done in a flame effect orange.

I also picked up all the 172 hub's, shafts, calipers, discs and I had to remove the stub axles of the clio myself last night what a bugger why do Renault use torx bolts on areas prone to heavy rusting :-( still I got them off after destroying several torx sockets

The clio phase 1 172 bit's, this discs and pads are apparently new and DS2500 lets see when I strip them down to clean everything up, they need a bloody good clean up.

Cam cover looks cool. Do they apply this like a transfer in a dip?

Looks like they bodged a bit but it wont be seen once you have the plastic cover in place?

Really liking the cam cover. Will be a nice addition to the bay :smokin:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Trevhib

Cam cover looks cool. Do they apply this like a transfer in a dip?

Looks like they bodged a bit but it wont be seen once you have the plastic cover in place?

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Yeah I noticed that also luckily it's under the plastics. From what I have seen its applied exactly as yiu describe

:agree:

I'm not sure if the O/Side driveshaft is correct, did you get the parts from a clio 172 with the phase 2 front end?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Lewis

I'm not sure if the O/Side driveshaft is correct, did you get the parts from a clio 172 with the phase 2 front end?

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The parts came off a green Phase 1 172 Exclusive I didn't remove the front end it was already off the car inside it, I took the stub axle's off though:agree:

Your right it does look different quick search and its a 182 version that bolts to the rear of the block.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/3912342264...801&rmvSB=true

You need the one piece 172 shaft without the additional support onto the rear of the block for the widetrack conversion.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Lewis

You need the one piece 172 shaft without the additional support onto the rear of the block for the widetrack conversion.

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But how wide is wide...:wasntme::smokin:

:agree::agree::agree:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Alastair

But how wide is wide...:wasntme::smokin:

:agree::agree::agree:

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See the 182 shaft might be ok as I am going to have to cut these down anyway seeing as I am not going full wide track I am merely fitting the 172 hubs only but that alone gives me a 14mm wider track in total at the front and about the same at the rear with the 172 stub axles in place some 1 deg neg camber at the rear using 172 shims:agree:

Hydro cam cover fitted (not best of lighting for pic though), Ill get another tomorrow:agree:

Your going to hate me james the second bigger breather on rocker cover drill it out bigger with 8/10mm drill bit;)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by turbo ted

Your going to hate me james the second bigger breather on rocker cover drill it out bigger with 8/10mm drill bit;)

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:laugh: noooo :laugh: if it's your recommendation I will do it. What's the reason for opening it up more?

Your rocker cover reminds me of a duvet and curtain set I had back in the 90's..... :cooter:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Goobie

Your rocker cover reminds me of a duvet and curtain set I had back in the 90's..... :cooter:

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LOL it is pretty oldskool style.

Daylight pic attached

Well now I am not so depressed lets talk about my last couple of day's. I had mapping done on the 07/10/2015, I fitted new Siemens Deka 630cc injectors. took the 1hr 20min drive to Surrey Rolling Road for Ed @ Fusion Motorsport to map my R5.

The results were ok not as good as I hoped as he kept it safe and said my exhaust manifold was causing a massive restriction. I ended up with 330.5bhp @19psi which isn't to bad at that boost. I was hoping for another 50bhp on top of that he did say he could have got me that but the manifold temperatures would have been way to high and as said I had a restriction on the ex manifold side. Downside to the map is the car won't start on a cold start :-( but then that side always takes a few day's to sort so I will attempt to do this part myself with help form the adaptronic forums.

Anyway the car came of the rollers and the turbo was rather loud just on idle (Bearing noise) we did a small road test and all seemed fine. 5mins into my journey home with no traffic I called the RAC to take me home. the GT2871r bearing core had failed:-(

On the road side I pulled the oil feed off and had a look and cranked over poured out fine, the oil pressure gauge is also T into the turbo oil feed and the pressure was perfect, I removed the core adaptor and again this was blockage free, now I tried to look down the turbo core and has they have a restrictor built in on these I couldn't see any blockages. Removed the air filter pipe and the turbo has very small amount of play but when bearings spun sounds awful.

Couple of pic's attached

Looks like I know what my restriction might have been seeing as the log manifold has been proven for 400bhp on a few car's now.

Turbo now off, trying to rtn it to the company I got it from but from what I have read and speaking with a good friend whom is a turbo specialist warranties don't cover BB core's so now crapping myself. I bought the item through ebay shop (yes genuine garrett) and I last night opened a paypal dispute, so let's see what happens on that.



Couple of pic's of turbo, blades all good and housing all still good, would appear to be the bearing gone only, but on a BB believe the bearing and rear wheel / shaft would need replacing and that's if a turbo company would sort.

Seem to have not much luck with this car :( that's what I am worried about with the turbo on mine. spending out a lot of cash to then go like that

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Bigfoot

Seem to have not much luck with this car :( that's what I am worried about with the turbo on mine. spending out a lot of cash to then go like that

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Tell me about it, I haven't found anything wrong with the setup yet, drained the oil and looks really really clean and I ditched the oil filter aswell even though the oil and filter only covered the run to the RR and the session (So less than 80miles on it).

Well new Turbo core ordered :cry:

I also decided to ditch my complete original turbo oil feed setup including adaptors, So a trip to my local Pirtek (Crawley) and they made me a brand new line with all new adaptors for £67 :eek:

I was hoping to use the small bit of cash I had put aside for the car to get a decent manifold and downpipe made or pick up a 2nd hand one doesn't look like that will be happening for some time now :crap:

I still need to sort out the cold start map but can't do anything until the turbo is sorted and the hopefully get the car to pod on the 24th

James, are you running a restrictor in the oil line to the RB turbo? I'm sure we used to on the Nissans.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Matt_S

James, are you running a restrictor in the oil line to the RB turbo? I'm sure we used to on the Nissans.

---

I wasn't running a restrictor, but the GT28 series RB's have a built in restrictor in the core already. I have spoken to a few Turbo places ref sourcing new core's and the restrictors and they have all said not to use a restrictor. My New turbo oil line has been setup to run no restrictor but I am currently looking for a filter to go inline.

The reason I have replaced my oil line and all the adaptor's is that on close inspection after all my faults it had a couple of bad kinks in it and undoing one of the adaptors it had a some sealant or something on it's thread (I assume a past bodge by someone to stop a leak), and I wondered if the pipe is internally damaged or any of the sealant had perished overtime and got stuck in the core causing a restriction on higher flow visually I can't see any blockages in the built in restrictor and the pipe seemed to flow perfect but something might have gone through it and blocked internally so for peace of mind I renewed it all.

Seeing as the Pressure sensor is just before this feed and oil pressure was perfect even after the turbo failed.

https://youtu.be/WcY-pbu3M0Q

Whos doing that Is it yours been re- done James

Yep that's mine :D

Couple of pic's of the replaced bearing and then the outer balance wheels and correctly balanced wheels screen shots

V cool. :cool:

Decided to take a long drive yesterday to collect my turbo so I can get on with getting thing's ready :agree: Top job done was only expecting the CHRA core to be sorted and clean but my rear housing looks brand new again :agree:

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by James5

...but my rear housing looks brand new again :agree:

---

It shows how much cleaning techniques have advanced too. The tech that's
now available is mind-blowing! Even with simple things like soaps, I'm trialling
a waterless wash that's so silky smooth you'd think you were waxing rather
than washing. Once my R5 is back on the road it'll go to a CO2 specialist,
who'll render the entire engine bay absolutely spotless.

James, I'm just in awe at the finance you're throwing into this hobby. It's clearly
well worth it :niceone:

Regards,
Steve

Progress

http://i252.photobucket.com/albums/h...psfyxdbksc.mp4

Small update car has been running really well haven't had to do to much other than the odd tidy up of bit's.

Lubed the window regulators, and I replaced the Passenger side window motor as this never worked when I got the car, feels weird now having working windows :D.

I also had a slight power issue which turned out to be the F7p alternator just not good enough and my battery light would be on as soon as I had more than 2 thing's on. So I ditched the F7p 70amp alt and fitted a clio 182 110amp alternator which has sorted my issue out :-) I had to modify my lower bracket to fit this as mounting point on 182 alternator higher than my F7p one. Couple of Male and femal rose connections and some bolts and all was sorted.

Had an odd issue the other eve at the local surrey meet in which my car decided to smoke for unknown reason (was a very wet eve) the car has not done this since and compression test done and all good no leaks or loss of fluids, all I have done is raise the idle revs from 750 rpm's to 1100rpm's just in case it was a back pressure issue

Pic of the M8 Rose joint's male and female used to extend Alt lower bracket for 182 calt fitment,

Wiring the Alt is pretty straight forward, Big thick red cable to B+ on alt, the alt earths through it's body to block, the single cream / white wire (black plug) on the 172/182 alt is for the dash light.

Pics? :)

yes james pics plz as ill need to do this at some point

Couple of pic's of the deserted surrey meet this month, weather was shocking :cry:

Silver Ph2 GTT. So few around! :crush:

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Trevhib

Silver Ph2 GTT. So few around! :crush:

---

It's Efi aswell running omex 600 and Micheal Tierney inlet

:cool:

Well Been playing with the ECU recently and sorted myself out with some pop's and bangs for the proper chav effect lol Doing this has caused a bit of a flammage issue with the side exit and in the I fear I am going to set fire to my sideskirt I bodged a quick heatshield out of some that high temp gold reflective stuff (Temporary until I get a rear exit system).

I also finally ditched the crappy std valver lower rad pipe that had a tendancy to split now got a decent coolant set-up with no worry of any splitting. i even recalibrated my ecu to match the gtt temp gauge:agree:

I love flames, any vids ?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by francob80

I love flames, any vids ?

---

Unfortunately I have no vid's of the flames, I have a few of the pops and bang's but sounds so much louder in the flesh
http://i252.photobucket.com/albums/h...psvco9rxkp.mp4

Haha, I get the picture.

Here is mine from earlier today - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=btzg_kyI704

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by francob80

Haha, I get the picture.

Here is mine from earlier today - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=btzg_kyI704

---

Mark, that's pretty cool is that using a Launch control and some rich fueling?? what have you get it set at@

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by James5

Mark, that's pretty cool is that using a Launch control and some rich fueling?? what have you get it set at@

---

Yeah Omex launch control, fuelling isnt overly rich though. Need to up my fuel pressure a tad, it's a bit lean past 6500rpm.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by francob80

Haha, I get the picture.

Here is mine from earlier today - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=btzg_kyI704

---

sounds brilliant!!! its similar to mine (yours is better and more flames!) when riding the clutch on the armtech flat shift mode :devil:

What revs is the launch set to?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by tubbyG

sounds brilliant!!! its similar to mine (yours is better and more flames!) when riding the clutch on the armtech flat shift mode :devil:

What revs is the launch set to?

---

It's set to about 5.5k at the mo, the actual limiter is set to 7500.

Small update sidey off :D and I have replaced it with a New GTTuning 2.5" Cybersport exhaust system :D

I have also been playing with the ECU further added launch control.

Oh and Rear window sticker

Video of the GTTuning 2.5" cybersport system .

https://youtu.be/T-owKDEF8LI

Well not updated this in a while but then to be honest the car has been doing very well, currently have an exhaust blow think between the turbo and manifold as my afr's reading's are rather lean and the fact I can see daylight when under the car between the exhaust manifold and the turbo shows and issue LOL and I can hear the blow as well so will be looking into that over the next few day's (Did have a gasket in place but looks like it's non existent know.

Still need to sort my cold start idle out as replaced the ICV for a enw one and it's thrown it all out again :-( I can get the car to crank idle for a bit then it just dies, does this for about 5-6 attempts then it's fine I will spend sometime at some point sorting this out.

I have also decided to increase my braking efficiency and got hold of a set of 285mm Hi spec Calliper setup to which I am fitting Thursday morning (Day off work). :D

I also need to replace the rear dampers as they are rather soft, borrowed a set of rear GAZ to put on for now :agree:

Also had the car professionally cleaned on Saturday by a friend whom is a valeter for a living done a great job car looks like new again exterior wise :-)

Ok well the leak was not just the exhaust to turbo gasket which was half missing, but I also found 2 huge cracks in the turbo downpipe :-(

So manifold gasket replaced and turbo gaskets replaced, need to get the downpipe urgently welded as I need to use car thursday to get the 4 pots fitted :-)

Is the downpipe cracked at the exhaust flange where you had to modify it? :(

No it's got 2 huge cracks at the top end looks like they could have been caused due to engine movement as the downpipe is solid has no flex bends in it (will have to look into engine mounts aswell) even thought they are pretty new I may have damaged them with the power being run).

I was going to get custom made downpipe and manifold but fund's limited due to 4 pot calliper purchase so got a friend tig welding it up as I write this :D

Looking at the downpipe bore it's only a 2.25" downpipe so I may in the next month get a 3" into 2.5" bore one made with a flexi in it and see if that will help it flow better.

:):agree:

Suppose I should have updated the thread yesterday, anyway downpipe was repaired and I fitted it yesterday and have driven the car to work today :-) enjoying the nice weather whilst it last's. Popping to Hayward's Heath this morning in the 5 for a Pre-op so again will enjoy the drive later this morning :agree:

To do list

Fit HiSpec 285mm 4 pot brake set-up,
Fit G60 22.2mm Master cylinder,
Fit rear goodridge (Red brake lines),
Fit Rear Gaz dampers,
Fit new fuel pump (When it arrives),

Post up how you get on with the brakes James. I have the same setup to go on and need the bigger ms.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Matt Cole

Post up how you get on with the brakes James. I have the same setup to go on and need the bigger ms.

---

:agree::agree: Will do just awaiting the MS to turn up now and some better weather and I will get on with it :-) Hope it's not going to be a bugger to get the ms in place as not much space to at rear of engine now

Well Hispec calipers and disc's fitted and the std GTT master cylinder removed not the easiest to do in situ, not looking forward to getting the lines back in when new one arrives.

I also had to totally remove the drives side line from master cylinder to caliper as the connection to rubber brake line was seriously messed up bad :-( so i now need a decent spare short brake serve line to braided brake line.

Also does anyone know the thread size and type for the brake line to rubber brake pipe?? I need to get adaptor for the new lines as slightly to small

Before and after pic attached, I will replace the old bolts with new once I get it all up and running again

^{Ok I managed to fit the new VW G60 (22.22mm) master cylinder this eve, what was a pain is the lack of space to get the brake lines back into the servo took me a bit of time to get them in and done up properly but they are in, all I need to do now is bleed the system went to do it this eve with an eezie bleed and a tyre @ 10psi and the fluid decided to piss out the rubber pipes connectors under the reservoir (and they are brand new) looks like I may have to get someone to help and do it the old push peddle way.}

Excellent that. They certainly look the part behind the wheels. The one good thing about my conversion is that the ms is easily accessible. Cant upload pics at the minute..:cry:

Well managed to bled the brakes by myself today without the eezie bleed crap kit, rear's took some bleeding but all done now. Not driven the car yet though but won't get todo that for the next 4-5wks now :-(

G60 MC and GTT MC

The F7p GTT is going through it's next upgrade progression which will hopefully see me to 400bhp ish give or take turbo dependant.

3" Throttle body adaptor,
Ported and polished big valve head,
Inlet manifold ports matched to gasket,
Kent RN1601 cams,
Piper vernier's,
Kent valve springs,
Wossner Pistons,
Arrow Precision Forged rods,
ARP rod bolt's,
Upgraded main bolts,
Fully blueprinted and lightened bottom end,
215mm Helix paddle clutch (just had new pads),
Baffled Sump,

And booked in for a remap in the next few weeks but this time I am getting Scoff to work his magic and get what he can out of the setup, then come October Ill be looking at exhaust manifold and downpipe, Should be replacing the gearbox in the next month also with a bolted in diff type http://turborenault.co.uk/styles/def...foro/clear.png
Attachment 30430Attachment 30431Attachment 30432

Blimey, that's big spec :eek:

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Trevhib

Blimey, that's big spec :eek:

---

Agreed :agree: sounds awesome!!! Looking forward to seeing this. makes a tuned 200+bhp c1j sound puny :laugh:

wire rung block?

Well managed to get it running on Friday afternoon, had to get the ole timing light out and amend my map /ECU file to get it to run.

As I have such a long drive for mapping in a couple of weeks, I have purchased some new rubber for the GTT :-) Goodyear Eagle F1 GSD3's. And I am going to replace the front brake lines as noticed one has been catching. Hopefully sort this week when i get some spare time to bleed it all.

Little video of how it sounds on idle now.

https://youtu.be/YlASFwNX73c

Sounds like some overlap going on there!

Slight update since I have fitted a rebuilt clio 089 - 172 gearbox with bolted diff I am now without a speedo so I have now fitted the following :

Valver ABS N/S & O/S driveshaft,
Valver ABS N/S & OS Hub's,

I have left the O/S Valver Abs ring in situ as I think I can use this as a speed signal for my Adaptronic 440 ECU, I have removed the N/S abs ring though and fitted the OS8472 12 tooth ring in its place.

All I need to do now is make up some kind of space to allow fitment of the gtt speedo sensor as it's way to long for the hole at present.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by James5

Well managed to bled the brakes by myself today without the eezie bleed crap kit, rear's took some bleeding but all done now. Not driven the car yet though but won't get todo that for the next 4-5wks now :-(

G60 MC and GTT MC

---

James, did you have to adjust the servo rod at all with that MS? The one I have was quite difficult to push in as the piston is longer. Got an air leak on mine when only partially depressing the pedal??:rant:

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Matt Cole

James, did you have to adjust the servo rod at all with that MS? The one I have was quite difficult to push in as the piston is longer. Got an air leak on mine when only partially depressing the pedal??:rant:

---

Hi Matt, no it was awkard to get on due to limited space with engine in situ but it went in with a push and has been working fine. Is the rubber O ring ok and not pinched up

It sounds like it's leaking back through the servo but I think the diaphragm is ok?? It only leaks when the pedal is depressed maybe 1/4 of the full available travel.

Not updated this in a while but I still havent driven the 5 properly its basically been sat idling and the coolant pipes getting rock hard :-(

I decided to bite the bullet and pull the engine out and apart only just got around to starting to strip it down.

Attachment 30573Attachment 30574Attachment 30575Attachment 30576Attachment 30577

more pics

Attachment 30578Attachment 30579

how comes you took the pistons and rods out for a headgasket issue?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Fordy

how comes you took the pistons and rods out for a headgasket issue?

---

Was block not HG the block has the hairline crack in it causing the pressure problem :-( on search for another F7p block now

Bugger.... engine stripped again!!!!! Is that a common fault or hate you just been horrendously unlucky?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by tubbyG

Bugger.... engine stripped again!!!!! Is that a common fault or hate you just been horrendously unlucky?

---

Must be a common fault although my last turbo engine was fine it's the new one, but all the engine I have picked up trying to get a good block all have these crack's which cause the headbolts to lift hence pressure in the coolant :-( I have 5 f7p engines now so plenty of spare heads just blocks fecked unless anyone knows someone whom can fix them

I would get it cold welded and then use arp studs instead of bolts. Might be worth a go.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Matt Cole

I would get it cold welded and then use arp studs instead of bolts. Might be worth a go.

---

Cold welding be nice if the original block can be saved would save alot of agro, its trying to find somewhere down my neck of the woods that can do it.

I have been thinking about the arp stud conversion not cheap as I need to have special spacers made as I have to use and F4r kit from what I have seen of Robbie's setup.

Ouch that sucks wonder how much a bare block is from Renault 🤔

Ok so I have finally made some progress and not the route I was expecting to take, seeing as I keep picking up F7p block's that are not of a good enough quality I was offered an F7r meg engine I had to think about this as my pistons were oversized I was very confident they would fit the bore size so I thought why not:). The f7r engine benefits from extra strengthening webbing on the rear of the block.

So I stripped the head of the F7r and the block had no cracks :agree:. I then got it home and started removing the sump only to find the block had a chain driven oil pump unlike the F7p engine :-( (Wasn't expecting that) at this point I thought oh crap this is a no go, I decided to have a little play and fit one of my pistons on the rod to the F7r crank and see how it would fit and go up and down ok to which it did but I had forgotten about the 7mm extra throw in the F7r crank :-(. I then grabbed a spare F7p crank ( i have a few of these now :laugh:) placed it in situ and fitted one of the meg f7r rods and doing this has dropped the f7r piston down in the bore 7mm perfect so looks like I can use the F7p crank in the F7r block. The next hurdle is the chain driven oil pump having looked at the F7p and F7r crank ends carefully and measured I was confident that the F7p crank can be lathered down to accept the meg f7r chain cog. So today i dropped the block and the cranks downs to the machine shop discussed with them and they were confident they could do what is required (Many thanks for Mick for coming down with me was good to catch up also and I would never have found the place).

So at the end of all this I will still be running a 1.8 just in a 2.0 block with a chain driven oil pump

Few pic's attached

Attachment 30603Attachment 30604Attachment 30605Attachment 30606Attachment 30607

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by James5

(Many thanks for Mick for coming down with me was good to catch up also and I would never have found the place).

---

no probs jim my guys will sort it, it will be one of a kind for sure a hybrid of both engines, and a club first i believe but what actually is it:laugh::laugh:

r or p :laugh::laugh:

james you helped me enough in the past, swings and roundabouts boss

just cant wait to see it running:agree:

remember glyco bearings micks recommendation lol

Flippin' brilliant James! Super cool :cool: Take plenty of pics :agree:

The cranks have been machined for this before. Scoff machined the 1.8 crank to fit in the first f4r turbo he built. This his setup was f4r block and head with Volvo/renault 1.8 crank. Drops the compression low depending on what pistons you use. May be slightly different dependant on the f7r head combustion chamber cc's.

Good luck with it James.

hes using all the f7p stuff except block and oil pump so it should be fine buddy

F7p and r head chambers are the same so no worries their, just different valves and port's etc... bore and compression is still the same :agree:

Picked the bit's up today am please with the work just awaiting the ACL Race bearing's to arrive and I will build up he bottom end :-)

Couple of pic's of the F7p crank modified for the chain oil pump, also had the crank polished aswell (Not that pic show's this) re-honed, and the top face just cleaned and made sure flat, also had the rear of block drilled and tapped for turbo oil rtn.

I do remember now Lewis as you say scoff doing something like this now to his old F4r setup me using the f7p crank in the f7r has just made this an F7p just with a chain oil pump and stronger block

Well decided to take the day off work and I actually spent some time doing the 5 engine which needs a few parts still to be fitted ready to drop in flywheel, clutch, gearbox starter and then I can drop it back in, prob less than full day work to have it back in and ready to start.

Liking them piper cams!;)

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Matt Cole

Liking them piper cams!;)

---

Cheer's hoping the cam's and the headwork allow me to flow for what I am wanting but am thinking my exhaust manifold and downpipe will be my restriction as everything else will do 400bhp+

Had the afternoon off work so done a few thing's on the GTT. Fitted the new vibratechnics engine mounts (very very stiff). Also ditched the alloy header tank so I can see what's going on.

Still need to fit the down-pipe properly, and need to fix a coolant leak that I have found at front of block drivers side.

Couple of update pic's

Attachment 30627Attachment 30625Attachment 30628Attachment 30629

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by James5

Well decided to take the day off work and I actually spent some time doing the 5 engine which needs a few parts still to be fitted ready to drop in flywheel, clutch, gearbox starter and then I can drop it back in, prob less than full day work to have it back in and ready to start.

---

If the chain driving the oil pump now on the inside what's the timing belt gear on the pump outside gear doing now is it just an idle gear now

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by turbo ted

If the chain driving the oil pump now on the inside what's the timing belt gear on the pump outside gear doing now is it just an idle gear now

---

Does nothing as you say it's just an idler gear

Well managed to get out of work early today so pulled the meg lump out the 225 as the guy wanted it this eve so that's now gone. And I spend a bit more time on the 5 and found the small coolant leak was behind the front engine mount it was the pipe that goes into the block looks like it ha been slightly moved on the F7r meg lump this is only held in with a 13mm bolt so I pushed it back in hard added a little sealant to the seal and done the Nut up tight.

Just need to check it in next few days to make sure not leaking anymore and then it's engine mount and bracket back on and alternator. I also done the downpipe up aswell.

Attachment 30630

Your making good progress on the new engine build, but For a very brief moment there I thought you had sacked the f7p/r and were going down the f4rt route :laugh:

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by tubbyG

Your making good progress on the new engine build, but For a very brief moment there I thought you had sacked the f7p/r and were going down the f4rt route :laugh:

---

It was tempting as I do have a spare F4rt Lump (Needs new rings on cylinder 3)

It's alive and running and covered a massive 2 mile's.

Small video of me trying to setup the 2 step

https://youtu.be/pD-8kK8LfT4

226 miles now covered

Another 2 step video thought would see what like at night

https://youtu.be/MtOn5OmLC1k

Well done!!!!!

Sounds fantastic and looks 😎 any plans to get back on the rollers for mapping?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by tubbyG

Well done!!!!!

Sounds fantastic and looks 😎 any plans to get back on the rollers for mapping?

---

Cheer's Will be having mapping done once I have covered my 500 miles to make sure all good then will contact Scoff and get him to work his magic on it:agree: Imagine it will be mapped end September early Oct if all goes to plan, I want to change the exhaust manifold and downpipe before mapping though

Squeezing out every last pony...... :devil:

Is there any decent manifolds available for the f7p? Or would it need to be a custom jobbie

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by tubbyG

Squeezing out every last pony...... :devil:

Is there any decent manifolds available for the f7p? Or would it need to be a custom jobbie

---

No decent off the shelf manifolds :( It would have to be custom made. The log manifold can get to just under 400bhp but it's so restrictive and heat builds up quick due to it's shape and material. It's trying to find a decent stainless fabricator localish that can undertake the job as I would need to leave the car with them to sort.

Excellent James and awesome stuff!

Speak with Matty off here for the manifold:

https://www.rtoc.org/boards/member.php?5843-Matty

Got to give your self a pat on the back James, this has to be the longest you've owned a car! :laugh:

Much repect and credit to you for sticking at it after reading all the latest dramas. :agree::cool:

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Goobie

Got to give your self a pat on the back James, this has to be the longest you've owned a car! :laugh:

Much repect and credit to you for sticking at it after reading all the latest dramas. :agree::cool:

---

Wow evening stranger, hope you are well been a long time? Yeah the car has had some good and bad times fingers crossed we are now on the good run.

I managed to change the downpipe over today for a custom 3" Hayward & Scott one :-) just need to change the rest of the exhaust system to 3" now hopefully in October I can get the 3" exhaust sorted and the custom exhaust manifold sorted aswell :-)

Couple of pic's of the custom 3" Hayward & Scott D/P my weld repair on a large crack and grind to clean up

Attachment 30632Attachment 30633

Well just done over 300 miles on running the engine in all going well so far, was getting frustrated with the lack of speedo and having to rely on the sat Nav, so thought I would have a look into the gtt speedo sensor.

I am using a clio 172 phase 1 gearbox with quaife diff, I have previously fitted clio 1.8 16v abs driveshaft and clio 1.8 16v abs hubs, the shafts are identical length to a gtt other than they have abs ring's on the end's and the hubs are the same other than bigger bearing's and abs mounting points. I knocked the passenger side abs ring off and fitted one of the OS8472 ring's he sell's and made a small spacer to allow the gtt speedo cable to fit snuggly in the clio abs sensor port. Couple of pic's attached of it almost complete.

Fingers crossed when I next use the GTT I will have a working speedo :-)

Attachment 30698Attachment 30699Attachment 30700Attachment 30701Attachment 30702

Forgot to add done another gearbox fluid change was running the wrong stuff was recommend this


Attachment 30703

I now have working Speedo :-)

That's a really interesting mod.. Opens up a few options for different gearboxes and ratios :coffee:

What's it like with the quaife?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by tubbyG

That's a really interesting mod.. Opens up a few options for different gearboxes and ratios :coffee:

What's it like with the quaife?

---

Still wheelspins alot lol The wheel speed sensor was easy to mount thanks to the OS8472 speedo ring.


A little annoyed at the mo my car was hit whilst parked by the local Tesco delivery man delivering food to my house :-( downside is no witness's but I heard him beeping as reversing up and down the side of my house for 15-20min's. :-( the bugger didn't say anything have made complaint to tesco awaiting the 72 hr investigation) am going to get some quotes to sort

Attachment 30704Attachment 30705Attachment 30706

Cracking mod for the speedo. Can't believe the damage. :crap:

Bugger!!!! :mad:...... I feel for you there. Im still hurting from when my 5 was damaged 3 years ago!

Hopefully their investigation gets the right outcome for you

As bad as it is, Atleast the damage looks just superficial and parts can be replaced.

Cheer's guy's. Speedo works perfect, also managed to get my MVSS working on the ecu aswell using the clio valver speedo cable in the back of my phase 1 172 gearbox (had to use the entire cable but only used the 3 wires at the other end (Black = GND, White = 12v+, yellow = Signal wire to ECU).

Had to calibrate the MVSS Speed sensor on the ecu manually but didn't take to long and I now have Launch control / 2step control, flatshift, boost by gear all setup by myself for now so I know it all works for Scoff.

Yeah the damage is very frustrating as I have a few event's to attend this month and was wanting a nice clean car :-( still awaiting the insurers to contact me on the damage rather annoying as would like it sorted asap.

Fitted a new -34 actuator that seems to hold 2bar of boost at 50% wastegate duty:agree:

Got mapping booked in with Scoff aswell now :-) So hopefully I can make what I want power wise now :-)

Not much to add, had a few coolant pressure issue's which would appear to now be sorted :-)

Took the car out last night for the first time in a while, yes I had some minor issue's, 1) coolant pipe had slid of the header tank (looked at header tank the swagged ends were just rubbish so it would have come of anyway),
2) Accelerator cable decided to feck up in side the metal sleeve (No spares on me so no choice but to call the RAC) luckily they had some metal inner cable removed old one and made new one up (I pretty much done the RAC man's job just with his tool's lol I was back up and running again.


Rather a chav video of my antic's last night (Mid life crisis I think).

https://youtu.be/sHt9Ug9eW3k

Love it james, love the conversion. :agree:

Not much of an update but I have fecked my GT2871r think a little to much antilag :-( basically the rear of the dual bearing core cage has failed and thus caused the compressor wheel to catch the compressor housing and damage the blades, engine is fine.

I have therefore taken the opportunity to get one of the new GEN2 GTX 2867r turbo's with the .86 rear that should be spool better than the GT2871r and it will allow for a better bhp aswell so once on I will be up to Scoff for some mapping although other than my antilag setup the map I done has been doing well @ 2bar.

Ill upload some pics of turbo damage

Some pics

Attachment 30999
Attachment 31000
Attachment 31001
Attachment 31002
Attachment 31003

New turbo has arrived and is now fitted, I am currently awaiting Scoff with a mapping date :agree:


Attachment 31024

Nice!;) should go really well that. Scoff is very busy I'm told 4 plus weeks wait for mapping :(

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Matt Cole

Nice!;) should go really well that. Scoff is very busy I'm told 4 plus weeks wait for mapping :(

---

Ideally I am wanting Scoff to map but if its that long a wait I might get the guy I had do it last time Map it for me again. Hoping for over 400bhp this time around

Crikey not updated this for a while, had some ups and downs. Engine had covered over 4000miles since my last update fault free so I booked it in with scoff, drove it to scoffs 5hr fault free, and 3hrs+ on the rollers and the inlet cam thrust bearing decided to disintegrate in the head whilst on the rollers, all was going well up to this point with some strong power figures.

I ended up coming back on an RAC lorry (10hrs to get home).

Anyway pulled the engine apart few day's later 4 bent valves, 1 x fecked kent cam, and the crank was badly damaged beyond repair. So a full rebuild was undertaken, new F4r clio oil pump fitted, new catcam turbos cams fitted, b18ft crank has been utilised and modified to fit, f7r meg head has been used many thanks to Mick for coming down and helping me fit the new valves.

car is back together and I have covered some good mileage and several runs at pod on low boost, i am going to get the car mapped agin over the next few weeks:D

Ill dig some pic's out and upload.

What happened re the Tesco accident??

Quote:

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Originally Posted by LiamR

What happened re the Tesco accident??

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Finally got the buggers to pay out :-)

still have a small scuff on the front bump strip but nothing to bad but I got the rest repaired

Small Update I decided to undertake a 172 rear hub conversion on my GTT, I picked up a set of clio 172 sport phase 1 rear hubs about a year ago and never got around to fitting them.

(This is a pain in the arse job all my gtt rear hub bolts seized or snapped on me)

Benefits for the conversion

1. clio hub spacers,
2. clio camber shims,
3. abs sensors,
4. abs rings,
5. 172 discs can be used,

the use of the abs sensors and rings is more down to the ecu I have the adaptronic 440d universal standalone so these can be wired in for all 4 corner speed sensor readings

Anyway some pics attached

Tools required

30mm Socket for stub axle bolt

18mm Socket and spanner for rear caliper bolts,
19mm 5 sided socket for caliper carrier,
torque wrench
hammer
T45 torx bits
Chisel

m10 x 1.5.. tap
8.5mm drill bit

m10x 50mm 10.9 ht Allen key head flat bolts


Angle grinder cutting and grinding disc's

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Finished conversion but need to see what wheel alignment is like and where i need to add shims

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front Jacking points on the 5 have deteriorated due to an old cage that was fitted and the holes not filled or sealed correctly so over time they have eaten away so getting them cut out and new jacking points fabricated and welded up. I also decided to get my rear tailgate badges refurbished again.

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refurbed badge

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well thanks to Goobie for the bargain cage, and some mid jacking point replacement welding

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Welding looks good. I need to finish my other 5's welding this year.;)

lucky i didn't get cage absolute bargain

Quote:

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Originally Posted by R5MJH

lucky i didn't get cage absolute bargain

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James is a top guy, it's gone to a good home. :agree:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Goobie

James is a top guy, it's gone to a good home. :agree:

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you are too

wish ya got your fecking 5 done james just rebuilt a red 5 and sold in 2 months from scratch
Just needed paintwork but that was it goobs

remember we are here to help and local to YOU!!!!:agree:

Awesome work on the 172 hub conversion. I too have had all the parts for a while now (six years I think?). I saw a Swiss guy do the conversion first and thought, as you have, the benefits are well worth the effort.

I'm planning on a wide track front too, so I'd probably space the stub axles out to match the front at the same time.

Some more update pic's, jacking point welding all done, just need to seal and that, going to get the cage brackets welded into the car tomorrow:D

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How you get on with the door trim? Do the bars clear it?

I had to loose the front door lower pockets. I just need to put thbcage back in now I've had all the brackets welded in. Just going to spray them all up before i put cage back in and carpet down

Remember, - Pictures or never happened!:cooter:

Gonna do the 172 front hub swap at some point. May as well do the same at the back!:D

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Matt Cole

Gonna do the 172 front hub swap at some point. May as well do the same at the back!:D

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I was tempted with the front as I have all that also but was concerned with what I would need to do to get all the camber correct. At present I just run valver similar hubs to gtt just big bearings and abs ports

It's making new drive shafts James that bothers me. I cant be bothered!:eek: Are you using longer shafts and wishbones with the 16v hubs? I would do straight bolt on stuff if that was possible?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Matt Cole

It's making new drive shafts James that bothers me. I cant be bothered!:eek: Are you using longer shafts and wishbones with the 16v hubs? I would do straight bolt on stuff if that was possible?

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Valver hubs are the same length as the gtt ones :-) only difference is abs rings. I forget you use the meg box

Yeah I'm using gt hubs though. So if the valver hubs are same apart from bigger bearing I might get a set and swap over.

You should use 172 hubs and 172 driveshaft cv as there a lot stronger than the Gtt shafts cv, as the 172 spline cv are bigger too,

Quote:

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Originally Posted by James5

Some more update pic's, jacking point welding all done, just need to seal and that, going to get the cage brackets welded into the car tomorrow:D

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James where did you learn to weld that looks spot on👍

Few more pic's now cage is fully in, few mods to carpet and interior plastic's to allow it to all fit nice

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Final pic for today


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It looks the business in there! :cool:

I see ya used the Allen bolts, looks a lot tidier with them.:agree:

Looking great James. Some cage that. Are you happy/safe with your harness connection to the bar?

Cage is awesome am well happy with the straps being in the brace, they are properly welded in place and the bar is solid.

Just had my retrieve badges back and now fitted, it's coming on nicely just need to replace the gearbox now as pod made it really noisey on idle. I have a spare box to go in just the lack of time.

I'll upload some pics later

Well the time has come to sell the car on I fancy a change for now so this will be up for sale in the next few weeks:agree:

Another change to the gtt
Had my bonnet louvred in places I wanted

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Looks good. Where did you get that done mate? Was it pricey?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by LiamR

Looks good. Where did you get that done mate? Was it pricey?

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The guy that used to run the company cool louveres back in the day lives in Crawley he kept all the equipment and does it on the side now cost me £140 and you can have the louveres in different sizes where ever you want. (i had it sprayed elswhere)


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Looks really well :agree:

Love the louvred bonnet look! I did have one quite a few years ago but sold it. They are subtle and functional. Really suits your car 👍

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Attended a small meet today meet a couple of other GTT's

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Small update decided to get the car mapped again, had to stop mapping at 364bhp @21psi mapper said my cams needs dialling, in said loads more still to give but wants the cams done before goes further. Should be back for mapping again in the next few weeks.

No major changes other than plate change really, injectors and exhaust manifold are going to be holding the setup back

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Excellent numbers :agree: Nice to see you still making improvements to it.

What gains are you expecting once the cams are dialed?

Love it James!!:D

Could the mapper not adjust your cams? Shame really as you have adjustable pulleys. I run VVT on mine and have an adjustable exhaust cam. The idea being i can adjust the ex quickly when the VVT is engaged for optimal lift.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Matt Cole

Love it James!!:D

Could the mapper not adjust your cams? Shame really as you have adjustable pulleys. I run VVT on mine and have an adjustable exhaust cam. The idea being i can adjust the ex quickly when the VVT is engaged for optimal lift.

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Cheers, unfortunately he wouldn't touch the cams :-( getting them dialled in next week, one of my friends runs a local Alfa Romeo garage and has the equipment to dial in so is going to do it next week, hopefully get it back up for mapping in the next few weeks

Quote:

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Originally Posted by tubbyG

Excellent numbers :agree: Nice to see you still making improvements to it.

What gains are you expecting once the cams are dialed?

---

It's currently on low boost we are going to keep going until the injectors max out or the exhaust manifold holds it back

That’s some result James! Triple the standard cj1 power and still chasing for more, lol.

I have built something which is a little easier to get hold of parts now, still fully forged including a forged crank this time around. Base engine is a phase 1 172, (big port head)

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Nice bit of f4r power James!!!;)

More of a mental note for me this really -

The 172 / 182 VVT setup is a simple on / off system, therefore on the 420d / 440 universal ecu's you just setup and aux output based on RPM (no wastegae functions is required), I will add the VVT details shortly

Quote:

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Originally Posted by James5

More of a mental note for me this really -

The 172 / 182 VVT setup is a simple on / off system, therefore on the 420d / 440 universal ecu's you just setup and aux output based on RPM (no wastegae functions is required), I will add the VVT details shortly

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Yes although i trigger mine on MAP. ;)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Matt Cole

Yes although i trigger mine on MAP. ;)

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You using the map2 function? any more details or screenshots from WARI as to how? Is the VVT on f4r 225 as the f4r 172 / 182?

First start, still using my F7 map with no mods, no exhaust, no icv fitted. not even got timing gun out yet either

https://youtu.be/g9rZVPC1jBQ

Quote:

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Originally Posted by James5

You using the map2 function? any more details or screenshots from WARI as to how? Is the VVT on f4r 225 as the f4r 172 / 182?

---

I trigger the solenoid on aux out , roughly at 85kpa. I use a 172 head James mated to a 225 block and run lower compression. It's to try and get my big blower spooling. I also run a 197 exhaust cam.

Well it's up and running currently done 79 miles on the car, doing aload of mapping myself will book on the pro mapper to finish it off.

Even added a splitter to the GTT (Already caught it twice)



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Awesome 👍

Another great install James. What have you done to retain the standard bonnet?

I picked up a full 182 engine this week to strip and rebuild for a turbo conversion, so any pointers will be welcomed

Hi only had to modify the front engine mount itself to lower the engine 30mm, this gave me enough clearance for OE bonnet to fit, downside is that engine mount is solid and i can eel it through the car, all the other mounts are vibra jobs.

You will need to back convert the 182 to phase 1 inlet of get a phase 1 TB and drill and tap the phase 2 inlet to accept it. Then you can have cable throttle. Quiet a straight forward conversion, dephaser and belt are easy don't let anyone scare you that they are a pain, you do need the correct tools though, oh and change the crank pulley to the megane 225 version as it has woodruff key. All pulley on the 172 / 182 are just floating (Scary thought really)

Wish I had taken a pic of the bottom end open as I run a forged crank in this engine aswell

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:smokin:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by James5

Well it's up and running currently done 79 miles on the car, doing aload of mapping myself will book on the pro mapper to finish it off.

Even added a splitter to the GTT (Already caught it twice)



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Very nice! Are you using the dephaser then James?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Matt Cole

Very nice! Are you using the dephaser then James?

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Yeah still using the dephaser and have vvt wired in. Stock 172 cam's, catcams springs and supertech valves:-)

Had the old car mapped @ 23psi

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new boots 195/50/15 profile going to have to raise rear a tad as they catch

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Awesome James! I've been on with my fuel system to hopefully get it mapped!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by James5

new boots 195/50/15 profile going to have to raise rear a tad as they catch

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I think I need a set of 15's. I'm struggling to find decent 45 series tyres

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Matt Cole

Awesome James! I've been on with my fuel system to hopefully get it mapped!

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I've still not finished my surge tank setup, I have to make sure my car stays at over 1/2 tank and its fine.

Got few things to sort out before pod now

• Fuel tank breather's (Pump clicks constantly when filling now),
• campus filler neck fitment
• Surge tank setup,
• Front camber bolt fitment and setup,

I had to raise the car 10mm for clearance of the 50 profile tires and even then they catch, whilst i raised I fitted the new koni rear dampers

Main reason for going 50 was the lack of 45 choice

I run 5mm spacers on the front just to give me a little clearance on the coil overs as I run a 10" spring for full damping benefit. The rears don't scrub at all but I am still on 40 series tyres. I'm not bothered about ride height as long as it clears speed bumps and handled well.

Few pics, change of plan with surge tank bought another kit mounted it in boot, just easier, now have an 044 lift pump and and 044 supply pump hopefully this will get rid of the half tank fuel starvation issue I was suffering with previously.

Raised the car 10mm for clearance on the new 50mm profile tiles, whilst at it I fitted the new koni dampers I have had for years. Had the car tracking all re-done and fitted some camber bolts at front aswell. Car feels and drives so much better now.

Hopefully be ready for pod very soon, bonnet currently at bodyshop for repairs

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Looks brilliant James! How's the noise of the 044 in the Car? What sized fuel lines did you use?

Looks Great James, can't wait to see you at Pod. :agree:

few changes finally sorted my coolant issues turned out both gauge sensor for gtt clocks not working and the ecu sensor aswell all done and all fine.

Carbon bonnet fitted,
New clutch fitted,
Broke the clutch support on first attempt to drive the car :-( now looking at making a support bracket that comes of the gearbox main bolts and other places, keeps bracket in std place but secured in a few places and braces to stop it pivoting o n the thin upper bit of the bracket

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Small update as I destroyed my Jc5 130 box recently I have decided to clean and replace a few parts, recently purchased a clio Williams sub frame setup apparently triple skinned. Benefits are the rad has a nice slot to sit in now which it didn't have on the gtt frame. Had the frame and subframe brackets all cleaned and powder coated. Gloss red frame and gloss black brackets, Ill be taking a few more parts over to the powdercoaters in new year

the engine bay will be getting a spray job in the next month by GTTurbo spares

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Awesome that James! Probably something I'm going to do in the future although I can't change my subframe as it's heavily modded for the ndo gearbox and radiator clearence. I might pull it off and seam weld it all to stop flexing. I guess that's why your going 16v subframe?

What gearbox are you replacing the j series with?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Matt Cole

Awesome that James! Probably something I'm going to do in the future although I can't change my subframe as it's heavily modded for the ndo gearbox and radiator clearence. I might pull it off and seam weld it all to stop flexing. I guess that's why your going 16v subframe?

What gearbox are you replacing the j series with?

---

Cheers Matt, I've got a jc5 129 box I am going to use with a quaife diff, I just don't see the point in changing to the o2m when I have seen a fair few fail now on the clio turbo conversion's the same way a JC5 goes.

Looks amazing James 👍👍. You certainly will be happy once the bay has been painted too. Top work as always 😎👍

Couple of updates and still more ongoing, also got a quaiffe box sorted to fit also

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Looking good mate

Very nice matey. Manifold looks stout

Well, looks like this is the end of this thread for me as I have now SOLD the GTT.

I will still come to all events though just won't be in anything french.

Very sad time James. Hope you stick around. 😔

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Matt Cole

Very sad time James. Hope you stick around. 😔

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Best car club around won't be going anywhere

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And very very nice!!!;)

Had the GTR almost three weeks now

Few upgrades,

Linney racing Discs and pads all round with billet bells,
SMT upper boost pipes with Tial BOV's ordered,
2 x rear Michelins ps4 tyres also now fitted.

I am now so skint, the family will be eating beans for the next month

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Worth every penny I imagine!! 😄

2019 this seems like only yesterday. Suppose doesn’t help the car is back locally and not owned by myself.

I still have a hobby car but have moved on a little bit but do miss the gtt.