stock aei and high compression

how high a compression ratio have people used the renix 209 with? im tempted to do gtt carb conversion again on the dini until i can afford to do a full efi conversion on it next year. my engine is a higher compression than the gtt but i remember from my last one that i built the the stock dini aei has a rev limit built in that cut in just as the car really got moving, would be nice to run with one without the rev limit and adjust it maybe on the pickup if its too much advance.

any ideas or problems any one could think of?

pinking!! u might have to tee a boost signal before the carb into ur aei vac pipe

where is it taken from originally? carb base? i take it from carb top it would see higher boost thus retard quicker than if it at carb base?

my standard compression ratio is 8.6 : 1. wont be running big boost as ill be sticking with the stock t3 turbo but was also hoping to maybe gain some bottom end thinking th egtt would be slightly more advanced with it being lower compression? as well as gaining a few extra revs

I'd feed the Aei from the carb top, whack the tdc sensor to full retard and run it on actuator pressure until you can get it setup on a rolling road or someone with det cans

Whack a standalone ign kit on instead adey, megajolt or something similar and get the full benefit;)

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Originally Posted by Brigsy

Whack a standalone ign kit on instead adey, megajolt or something similar and get the full benefit;)

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:agree:

For the cost and peace of mind, this would be the way to go.

i can only use one that will work with the stock pattern, 44-2-2. if it has to work with a different pattern ill have to wait till i get the flywheel made. and once that is done ill be piecing together a full efi setup. this was looking to be a stop gap between that. worst case i can run it on the stock aei like i did last time

I thought the dini flywheel is different pattern to the gtt?

different size but same trigger

http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g2...ps07527cd0.jpg

44-2-2, and looking at the price of megajolt/megasquirt itll be the same as going to a brand name. all i need is the flywheel really.

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Originally Posted by Fordy

I'd feed the Aei from the carb top, whack the tdc sensor to full retard and run it on actuator pressure until you can get it setup on a rolling road or someone with det cans

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But you won't have any vacuum advance. In the world of EFI that would make for some scary EGT at part throttle. Better maybe to pipe it up as normal but with a restrictor (carb jet?) at the manifold end then another hose from the compressor cover with an inline 1 way valve and T that in at the AEI. The idea being the AEI will see vacuum and then the greater pressure from the compressor cover when you're making boost.

But remember the AEI doesn't retard any more past 9psi, so you'll still need to be carefull at a bar or more at a guess. You might also find the xflow is a better cylinder head, so it might not detonate as early, who knows. You need to monitor for knock as the guys say.

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Originally Posted by Adey aka Ewok

i can only use one that will work with the stock pattern, 44-2-2. if it has to work with a different pattern ill have to wait till i get the flywheel made. and once that is done ill be piecing together a full efi setup. this was looking to be a stop gap between that. worst case i can run it on the stock aei like i did last time

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Adaptronic and probably some others will work with 44-2-2 as long as you keep the distributor. The renix pattern can't work with wasted spark since there is 2 "resets" 180deg apart. For wasted spark (no distributor) you need a single reset like a 60-2 or 36-1 pattern. :)

cheers for the help guys, got enough to go forward with there. will probably start doing it over the next few weeks :agree: i like the idea there scoff, will see how she goes.

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Originally Posted by Scoff

Adaptronic and probably some others will work with 44-2-2 as long as you keep the distributor. The renix pattern can't work with wasted spark since there is 2 "resets" 180deg apart. For wasted spark (no distributor) you need a single reset like a 60-2 or 36-1 pattern. :)

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exactly what ive been told. this is why im going down the route of trying to get the flywheel sorted for a different trigger, itll be neater than a cam wheel plus ive been told itll be hard to get a good read off it due to teeth size and mechanical backlash?. the flywheel is currently at an engineers workshop where they are looking into how to make it work. drilling wasnt an option as matt suggested as i was told the sensor needs to see a high an low rather than a gap. hopefully itll all come together. im hoping once its all fitted up and running a base map ill be able to come to you for mapping scoff? ;)

You could always weld up and machine away one of the resets so you're left with only one, then any half decent ECU can be programmed to read it.

The cam sensor doesn't need to be accurate, it's timing isn't important. Its job is to tell the ECU which half of the cam cycle the engine is in. Its the flywheel still which is in charge of ignition and injection timing. :)

hmm that i didnt know, ill drop you a pm